I'm running out of time, patience, money, and ideas here, Sup Forums. a few nights ago...

I'm running out of time, patience, money, and ideas here, Sup Forums. a few nights ago, a brief blackout hit my side of the city and shut this thing down. it started back up just fine once the power died first, but immediately after I turned it back on, another blackout hit, and this one stuck around for about half an hour.

after that, the thing was just dead. yes, it was plugged into a surge protector, before anyone goes "get a surge protector, jackass". the hard drive was fucked and the motherboard was equally fucked. after waiting around for about $700 worth of replacement parts to come in the mail, I spent all day rebuilding it, all with new parts, save for the power supply and GPU, both of which work just fine, all things considered.

now, it just won't boot. I have zero fucking idea where to begin. did I not plug something in somewhere, even though I double checked everything? did I short the motherboard with one of the screws? I don't know. I'm a few more tries away from canning this thing and starting over, which I do not want to do considering the market for GPUs.

where do I go from here, Sup Forums? I'm desperate. I'll disassemble the thing if I have to, but I hate to think I just wasted all this time and money on fucking nothing.

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msi.com/Motherboard/B350-TOMAHAWK/Specification
twitter.com/AnonBabble

ESD maybe, the mini lightning bolt of god

You try changing around RAM and one stick?

pretend I don't know what that means
this is my next step

also check your power button wiring, I've messed that up before
are you sure you PSU is okay as well? Do the parperchip method (green wire to a neighboring black wire) and see if it's working pic related

I'm sure the PSU is fine. after the blackout, I turned it on and it threw me to the bootup screen saying it was attempting to repair the HDD. it was an older 3.5" that I bought when I first built it in 2013. I was able to try fiddling around in the BIOS but that didn't do anything, the hard drive was fucked. I'm sure the SATA port on the mobo was also fucked.

I checked the power button wiring and compared it against what the manual for the new board said the configuration for it should be, looks a little like this. maybe the case wiring is fucked too? god, this is one of the most expensive blackouts I've ever had.

when I have time to work on it again, I'll try breadboarding and see if the board I got was DOA.

should have bought a better PSU

Did you clear cmos (if reusing same mobo)?
>it was plugged into a surge protector
Did you contact the surge protector manufacturer, and ask them why their surge protector didn't protect your electronics from a surge? Also what brand/model was it, so I can avoid.

what does "it wont boot" even mean? does it turn on at least, if not, then its one of the cables/psu, if yes then probably the motherboard or cpu. if it was RAM then it would throw a beep code.

Can you clarify this op. Which parts are new, and what parts are you attempting to reuse?

>clear cmos
no, I bought a new motherboard. the old one was an Asus M5A99FX housing an FX-8350. the new one is an MSI B350 housing a Ryzen 5 1600x. bought DDR4 RAM to accommodate.
>surge protector
to be fair, it probably wasn't designed to face multiple city-wide blackouts in quick succession. it was likely my fault for turning it back on and not knowing another blackout was ten seconds away. it's a Belkin
zero power to the PC. the button does nothing. no buttons or switches I can throw on the board, either. I'll have to disassemble and breadboard it to get a better idea of my issue.
> (OP) (You)
>Can you clarify this op. Which parts are new, and what parts are you attempting to reuse?
the parts that are new;
>motherboard
>processor
>RAM
>hard drive replaced with a Samsung SSD
the case, the power supply, the graphics card, and one of my storage drives, those are all the same.

Congratulations, you're yet another dumbass that let their hardware get deep fried because you didn't have a UPS unit. As a reward, you can fucking kill yourself. Faggot.

t-thanks you too

Maybe your PSU was dying and died. Don't be "sure" of anything, do the paperclip test and make sure.

My last computer issue I had I was damn sure it wasn't the PSU and what do you know it was the PSU.

>belkin
Contact their warranty, because you might be applicable for reimbursement. Some of their products will cover up to $300,000.00.

alright, when I'm done working I'll bust out my paperclip box and do some poking. I could also swear that my PSU isn't the issue, because it at least turned on with the fucked HDD and motherboard.
I can try that, too.

>I can try that, too.
try it, but don't expect much since you know even the companies who are considered to have the best warranties, and customer service are just bullshit.
Do you have a buddy that can let you test out your PSU, and gpu, or test out their GPU/PSU with your new gear?

>do you have a buddy
I had one a while ago, but that's a can of worms I'm not about to open back up. so long story short, no, I'm up the creek without a paddle, or a boat.

Test your PSU using a paperclip

>the new one is an MSI B350 housing a Ryzen 5 1600x

Is the picture your new system? Or the old one? Doesn't look much like a B350 board given that the two bottom slots are PCI slots.

Perhaps they make some B350 motherboards with PCI slots on them but I haven't seen any.

Depends on what kind of UPS, though. I've had surges come on both the telephone cable and ethernet cables in my time. Just fried the modem card and network card, but still.. just a normal UPS won't protect you that much.

>doesn't look much like a b350
pic related
a few moments, please, while I run this test

>save for the power supply and GPU, both of which work just fine,
There is your problem, it was the PSU all along, CX means "this is shit throw it in the CX bin" for Corsair

heh that really is a B350 with ..eew PCI slots on it
msi.com/Motherboard/B350-TOMAHAWK/Specification

my mistake.

Isn't anything obvious that stands out from that picture, btw. Capacitors look fine, looks like plugs are where they should be, can't really tell what would be wrong from that picture.

paperclip test results are in; the power supply is just fine, the fan is moving, and it's sending juice to my SSD, the secondary hard drive, and the disk drive. this must mean it's the board. will a breadboard confirm this?

Try moving the RAM.

I took a look at 7A34v1.1(G52-7A341X6)(B350 TOMAHAWK).pdf for some reason, curious I guess.

DIMM A1 and A2 are closest to the CPU/cooler and you've filled DIMM B1 and B2.

The manual "recommends" that you always fill DIMM A2 with first. This could actually be a requirement, I've had boards not POST without a stick in one of the slots for the first memory channel.

Regardless of this though; the way you've done it would be bad for performance. That is a dual-channel memory board and both your sticks are in the same B channel. So you'd be getting half the memory performance you could get by just filling both the B slots instead of having one stick in the A channel and one in the B channel.

the first thing I did when I came out here was move the ram to the A slots. it should look like this, yes? now, the paperclip test. what do I do from here? breadboard?

Wait. Is your CPU fan plugged in? This pic seems like it's not.

Now both DIMM sticks are in the A channel, slot A1 and A2. This should work in having a stick in A2 is a requirement.

But so you know, unrelated to making this work:

DUAL CHANNEL systems will read from each channel, A and B, for faster access compared to one channel. So the best performance is gained by either filling A and B with two sticks or having one stick in A and one in B.

You just moved both sticks from B to A. You were using single channel when both were in B and now you're also using single channel in channel A.

..just so you know. This obviously doesn't mean anything just yet since memory performance would only if you get the bloody thing to .. you know.. turn on and POST.

shittt image aside, yes, the CPU fan is plugged in. the cooler is gigantic as far as air cooling goes, so it's a little hard to see the plug.

also, I sincerely apologise for wasting everyone's time here, the fourth post was right; I had the PLED and POWER SW plugs crossed and plugged in the wrong sides. I'll be deleting this thread and moving on. thank you all so much for your help, I appreciate it.

are you sure tho? last pic clearly shows the fan connector

Ayy I've done something like this before. Glad you found the issue, best of luck!

....

Why did no-one tell you to unplug and jump the two pins on the board. I do that all the time when I test fit everything before building.

>I've had surges
OP got rekt by a regular old power outage. Although the one I posted does in fact have coax and rj45 outlets.

Does it start at all? Fans spin, enter bios setup,mobo splash screen,etc? If it does all that but windows won't load I'd say your windows install got fucked or your hdd data is corrupted. If no spinning fans then either your psu is fucked,overloaded, or you got a bit of bad hardware such as ram. or your wires are connected wrong. Could also be your boot order got fucked up so it's trying to boot from the wrong hdd or just an optical drive.

Good to hear you got it fixed OP.

UPS, they'll save you lots of pain in the long run.