/wt/ Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of whorology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for newbies:
youtu.be/0UOU36cJgZY
youtu.be/nr9PDFAPj8c

>Strap Guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

>Watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com/VBAu4Rwi

Previous Thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

raketa-shop.com/w/en/raketa-polar-for-polar-explorers/77-polar-n124.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Lets show current collection to warm up.

i have sold all my watches except this one
what watch do I buy next lads

If you got a watch for Xmas, please post it as well. Thanks.

speedmaster, one needs a chronograph.

then maybe a tudor black bay blue or pelagos.

BAM! perfect 3-watch collection.

i have handled speedmasters and in my opinion, like most omegas, it’s highly overhyped and doesn’t warrant its price
I do like the tudors though.

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Tudor makes a great watch.

That is pretty nice; what are you looking for?

Still works like a charm.

I really like the speedmaster lug design.

that is pretty cool user got any dial shots?

I was considering pic related as my next purchase since y lack any chronographs. Any thoughs? Its always helpful to have the opnion of someone esceptical.

>my collection

What /wt/ think about these watches

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I like them but thecases are shit

That's such a cool watch. Does the second hand tick once per second?

Very cool, but i have always liked the Breitling Aerospace better.

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something waterproof

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That is nice user did you buy it directly from their site? raketa-shop.com/w/en/raketa-polar-for-polar-explorers/77-polar-n124.html

German? It's their own Russian site.

Yes.

thats fucking cool hows the quality? accuracy?

considering it’s an omega, usual considerations come into play- the finishing is not reflective of the price but it has a well built movement
taking financial considerations out of play, as pictured that watch is gaudy and autistic. what that watch needs is a black rally strap, with yellow finishing on the insides of the little holes. or yellow stitching if that’s not a thing.
given a better strap, bold yet totally wearable piece

How is the quality and accuracy in modern day Raketas? Dependable stuff?

They are not exactly cheap...

It is the original strap, i will obv. change it.

Regarding price, its easy to get one around 1200€ in near perfect condition.

There's 2 fucking threads you faggots which one are we using

Apparently this one. At least we that are actually using this one. "We" includes you, since you actually used this one to ask.

Maybe you are using the other one also though, but that doesnt make less truth that you are using this one.

Any more doubts user? Happy to help.

The watch was *far* from pristine on arrival, so I had to get a partial refund rather than deal with exchange. It's fairly accurate on a timegrapher between -7 and +5 or so in positions, but very poor beat error. Consistently runs a little fast in practice, which is fine. It still holds a two year warranty.

It's not like I expected proper quality in line with its hefty inflated price, spotty QC is known, but you won't find much as cool or unique in this range either.

I don't have my own so here's lawyeranons for any newfags

I am not buying one then. Pity because they look quite cool.

QC aside it's very nice. Others are luckier. I hope the factory reamed out their French distributor that shipped it.

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Bought myself a Bering yesterday.

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As a Russian, I have a Vostok. I am not sorry

fuck that looks cool

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Smith's argument about fast beat escapements is very strange. First of all, the primary reason mechanical watchmakers began increasing beat rates was to reduce positional variation in rates and I've never even heard anyone ever claim it had anything to do with the ageing of escapement lubrication before.

Secondly, his entire discussion of the subject totally elides that achieving good accuracy on an 18,000 bph movement is monumentally harder than on a movement with a higher beat rate and thus requires considerably more manufacturing labour and adjustment precision. Higher beat rates were a practical trade-off made to enable much better accuracy out of production watches at prices that weren't totally ludicrous. Does he mean to suggest that production watch buyers should just have to live with +/- 30-60 seconds a day accuracy then? Because you sure as hell aren't getting 18,000 bph to pass COSC without throwing a crap-ton of hand adjustment labour at them (and thereby inflating the price enormously).

Thirdly, his analogy between a faster beat rate and animal hearts is a total non-sequitur since well designed and regularly serviced movements can essentially last indefinitely. 50 years of experience with the 36,000 bph Zenith El Primero, Suwa Seikosha 5740C, Girard Perregaux 32a and the Daini Seikosha 4500 all show that with proper care and regular maintenance there is no reason to believe that fast beat movements must necessarily expire prematurely.

Finally, on what basis does Smith get to decide, a priori, that everyone should value length of service interval above accuracy? Many watch buyers would prefer a different trade-off between those traits than the one Smith is advocating.

If only Omega didn't ruin that lug design by excessively rounding the case edges when they radius them. The way they do that triggers the fuck out of my autism. See pic related comparison to see what I mean.

Be aware that that Speedmaster uses an ETA 2890 movement with a piggyback Dubois-Dépraz caliber 2020 chronograph module. Independent watchmakers will typically not service those modules and you will need to send the watch back to Omega for services, where they will remove and replace the entire piggyback module rather than bothering to service it. Make of this fact what you will.

>Very cool, but i have always liked the Breitling Aerospace better.
How the hell did a middle aged suburban dad end up on here?

One of Smith's focuses with his watches is that they should be able to be maintained essentially indefinitely. So his watches aren't super thin, and parts of the movement are made for easy replacement should a part need it.

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Right, but just because Smith believes that ease of maintenance should be heavily prioritized over all other considerations doesn't mean everyone else would choose that same trade-off. Smith is in a position to compensate for his design choices by hand building his escapements and adjusting the bejesus out of them, most watchmakers are not and a lot of watch buyers would not be prepared to accept the trade-off in accuracy following Smith's ideals at production cost prices would require.

i bought an skx007, and i own an snzg15... am I falling for memes?

Yes, get some originality.

watches have been the same for 500 years. the most unoriginal accessory

the sngz is unironically a better watch

Maybe shoot for a Hamilton khaki.

Thinking of buying a pocket chronograph. what do you recommend? Budget is 800$

Bonus points for blue hands and nice movements.

Too many models to remember but I'm pretty sure Hamilton has nice ones for under 1k.

i'd say just get a railroad ball watch for that price.

>doesn't like lyre lugs
wtf, man?

>want a BB Bronze so bad
>$3500
>fug
>pic related is only $180 shipped
What do /wt/? This thing has a sapphire crystal and NH35a movement. Also most people will not confuse it for a Rolex.

>purchasing shitters

I.. I am a poorfag...

Don't purchase shitter watches. Save your hard earned money (or neetbux) and get a decent watch a year from now. Stop justifying bad decisions like everyone on Le Urban Gentry's facebook does by saying i-it has a saphire crystal and i-it has a soyko movement!

Save your money, do your watches right. Buy a casio for now and get a good watch when the time is right.

W.. what about this for $82?

Not the other guy but i actually quite like this one for what it is

>The virgin shitterbox
The chad collection

Not too bad, For what it is it's a nice watch. You'll be better served with that and not wasting your money.

Old picture but most recent I have.

>Holy shit user nice Black Bol...
>Oh.. i'm so sorry

Copied from the last thread - did it get deleted or something? Running really inconsistently - wonder if the smaller fork with single coil design has more positional variance than the traditional 214. Also apparently when I pull the crown the fork pitch goes up about 40hz and the whole case starts vibrating. These later accutrons are weird.

>dad said he sent me a swatch as a late xmas early birthday gift
>still waiting on it in the mail

>brass
Gross. Just buy a Komandirskie at that rate.

Or better yet, don't listen to archiecucks and spend your hard earned money on chinese (((swiss made))) bullshit, get a cheap nicely looking russian or japanese watch that will last for years with minimal investment and use the left over money for other things.

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I cant understand how people watch Archies videos. He is the most annoying fat fuck ever. Hideous persona and brain damaging voice.

Those Grand and King Seiko are cool. The vintage Omegas not my cup of tea but great watched too.

Looks like you are much into dresdy or classical watches, beware of the "wrist fedora" trap...

Havent you considered adding a chronograph?

>that will last for years

Dress watches are definitely my preference yeah.

I have a chronograph (a cheap Chinese microbrand with a seagull st1940). I might like a vintage gruen or zenith or longines chronograph but the service is such a pain.

>not buing THE chink watch
>not having Mao wave at you every second for good luck

You get one that will last for years, not shitty skx.

pretty pair

To Archie, literally every brand that he doesn't own is a 'shitter' in his eyes.

The guy is a poster boy for borderline personality disorders, delusions of grandeur, self-medication and shopping addiction.

You would be better off following literally anyone else.

Are you implying people would confuse a black bay bronze with a submariner?

Christopher Ward do a bronze version of the C60 Trident. Not sure how much it is but it will be cheaper than a BB Bronze.

This watching is classy as fuck for what it is.

>Christopher Ward

Is taking your mechanical dive watch in actual saltwater dives a bad idea?

It will probably be better than that $180 piece of dogshit they posted. At least it's actually bronze not brass.

That is quite literally what they are designed for.

As long as you rinse it after not a problem

Why are Timex watches so LOUD

Sure, but I also would not be surprised if the dogshit gave the ChrWard a run for their money.

Just rinse it (or better yet leave it in a glass for a few minutes) in fresh water and you're good.

And yeah, metal bracelets on divers are a meme, don't actually use them if you don't want the cheapshit pins to rot.

Not problem at all. But i see Mako Ray more as a great everyday watch than a dive watch. But of course you can dive with something like that without problem.

>buying my first Amphibia

Which models are the most i c o n i c and collectable?

710, 110, 160

They only are cheapshit in cheapshit watches. There are even cheap watches that arent shitty at all and are better for regular diving than any ultraluxury thing.

ITT: boring wankers

Most iconic are different scubadude dials, Komandirskie dials, radio room, the black Zissou and so on.

Cases: 710 is top tier, 420 is pretty good too. Get the 090 if you're a real man.

I have a 420 and I find there's just nothing to the case, so it wears REALLY fucking big.
110 over 420 I'd say

The black and blue "scuba dude" dials are cool. I went with the 710 case.

can someone explain why watchers use jewels?

bearings. the hardened steel pivots rub in brass holes. over time the pivots will warp the holes. jewels are synthetic ruby- really hard. the jewels dont wear easily, and they allow the pivot to rotate very smoothly.

okay but why is it not something simple, like ceramics