I have a problem Sup Forums. I have tried everything I can think of. When I turn my computer off...

I have a problem Sup Forums. I have tried everything I can think of. When I turn my computer off, it often will not turn back on unless I switch the power to "off" and wait a while. This started when I replaced a CPU. The problem got worse and worse. One day my computer finally didn't turn back on. After some reading I thought it was the MoBo. So I replaced it. Then the CPU. Then the RAM. Then the video card. At the end I replaced my PSU and at long last it started working. That was a month or two ago. Now, it's happening again. It, again, got to the point where it will not turn on. Why is this happening? How do I fix it?

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newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438036
amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438036.
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flash.newegg.com/product/9SIA5AD32F4747\And
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It might be a the power supply.

Aside from that, it could be a multitude of problems that's impossible to determine without psychically looking at it. Take it to a computer shop and get it fixed. Find a small business computer repair place instead of a big franchise chain. They tend to charge less while giving you more reliable and faster work.

I will bump with what little porn I have on this.
The PSU? Again? What could I have done to cause it, if anything?

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What I really want to know is if I am somehow causing this, because I don't want to spend more money on it, only to break it again.

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stop buying shit tier products.

It's obviously the CPU then isn't it?

I got
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438036
What do you recommend?

I already replaced that the first round, did nothing. Replacing the PSU fixed it.

ask over on Sup Forums, you won't get real answers here.

I'll give it a go, thanks.

Get a UPS

Uninterruptable power supply.

You connect it in before your psu, then hook your psu to it.

It act as a line filter and load balance. It sounds like your power in is either dirty (spiking) or over volting.

I have a UPS. Do you think it's fucking my shit up?

I would most definitely get it checked, yes. There should be no reason for a psu to die on a UPS, once, let alone continually.

Using a amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

How do I check it? If I can, I'd like to test myself.

I had a UPS. They came and took away my computer, ans delivered it to someone else.

Thanks for the help all btw. I don't have much for porn on this so I am running out.

Mild kek.

...

Apc is a quality enough brand. But it makes no sense for your psu to keep dying.

Original could of been faulty, but a second one on a UPS? Highly unlikely. Unless it was a shitass generic psi, which I assume not if you are using a decent ups.

I guess look at the ups.

Also, is your psi digitally controlled? If so, you might need to check the headers on the mobo and your bios, make sure the digital control is setup properly.

Here's something a tad different.

Using a newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438036.


MoBo is newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130790. No idea how to check what you suggested.

Sounds like you have dirty power at your place putting a fluctuating load on the PSU's regulator.

Buy an uninterruptible power supply - it will modulate your voltage so it shouldn't happen again.

Mmm. You could measure it with a pokey proddy... Whatyoucallem..... Gah.. it's one am and I can't think.

Measure volts, impedance etc.

Best to just take it to a sparky and get them to do it thou. Just ask them if there's any spikes or issues.

See . Thanks for the advice though. Also, I never had this issue prior to the UPS, but it didn't necessarily start right after I got it.

On the MoBo or the UPS?

N/mind, not a digitally controlled psu.

Well I really, really don't want to shell out all that cash for a new PSU/UPS, but it seems I may have to. Going to replace the PSU with a friends later today to see if it fixes it. Though I am willing to bet the PSU is dead. So to recap, the most likely cause is an evil UPS?

source

Have some more tits. This is my wife's comp, so unless you like cock not much porn left.

The ups, since it's the item in question.

The psu is the part that's failing. But it known to work. One fail, sure... Maybe faulty psu, but two? Unlikely.

So what's the part before the psu in the chain.

The cable to the psu, from the ups, from the ups, to your outlet.

Work forwards

Eliminate the cable as the reasoning.
Investigate ups if it's at fault.
Then from there if not, check your power outlet.

No idea, sorry.

I didn't know if another part could fuck up the PSU (MoBo, GPU, etc.) but I suppose I did replace EVERYTHING.

It works like a chain... Wall to ups to cable to psu to mobo which then distributes it forward to things like gpu, cpu, mem etc.

Your currently failing at the forth point in the chain all the time. And the system has been shown to work otherwise.

So your most like outcome would be that there is something wrong with either part 1 2 or 3 in the chain.

You *could* have a gpu or a cpu splode and take out the psu, but it's unlikely. And would be very noticeable.

Also, do you (or anyone) know of a place to get a UPS checked out? Or what to buy to do it myself?

Very helpful, thank you. I know a bit about computers. More than anyone else I know by far. But overall I'd say my knowledge is 3/10 at best. This takes months to happen so I guess I will just buy a new PSU and not use a UPS and see what happens. One other thing, if I go into screen saver mode or do anything with the monitor everything fucks up and I need to not only turn off the PC, but unplug/turn off the PSU to get it working again. It sometimes remembers that I hit the power button and will turn on as soon as I plug it back in.

I'd just go to any old electrician, take the ups, tell em your woes and ask if they can measure any power spikes or leakage.

I don't recommend investigating it yourself.

Do the wrong thing, big badda boom. And fire. Lots of fire.

Kek. Good to know. Thanks again.

Nah ... Sall good. To be honest, I went through the same pain with my build about a year ago.

My issue was similar in that my psu gradually shut down more and more till it died.

Mine was digi controlled though, and it was relating to that.

This has somewhat happened to me recently too. It was my RAM, I had two sticks of 8gb which were newish, and two sticks of 4gb which were a couple years old. Computer worked fine for a long while but then it started acting up like your computer. All I did was remove the older sticks of RAM and then it started up just fine.

Checked and happy to hear you got it all sorted. And yes, I am also using this as a mild bump.

That also seems a bit suss. Power /suspend states fucking up says to me there's either something wrong with the bios settings (hard, unless you've manually changed them) or its something with the current physically. (Which would come back to ups)

I will try it out, as I have the exact same setup (a mix of new and old RAM)

I did nothing in the UEFI and this is my 2nd MoBo as I replaced it the first time. This UPS might have cost me over $900.00. So happy.

is your electrical grid properly grounded? That looks like some potential not being properly zeroed, leading to psu lockup. is your psu powerful enough?. i'm repair tech, i'd do: Update bios/mobo drivers, remove strange hardware (tv tuner, 3g usb modem, cd/dvd rom), try again. If still happens, borrow psu from someone and rtry - if this doesn't solve, I'd try borrowing an UPS unit. if it goes straight to battery or switches often, you have problems in e. grid. Another case that makes symptoms loke this, if you have h/p67 chipset (sandy bridge, core 2xxxx), with B2 stepping and hdd with os on sata-3G 1 or 2 ports.

Your particular problem was cause of mixed ram.

You don't mix ram. Sizes or timings. It's in a bank, because it needs to work in sync.

If you have a size/timing mismatch, your going to get all sorts of arsed up weird errors.

Yea so I've been told lol. It worked for about a year like that except instead of it reading 12gb total, it only read 10gb.

And actually ... Yeah. That's one thing not checked. Is your psu the correct size/power for all your gear.

Yeah, cause what was happening is called bottlenecking or throttling.

Basically, it will find the smallest/slowest ram , and sync the other three to that speed/size.

It's a crapshoot as to how long it'll work and how many types of glitches it''ll cause. I'm surprised it lasted that long.

I think so. All my other PCs worked for years, so this would need to be a new thing. I do have some electrician tools (from my father, who like most men his age did a bit of everything). Outlet is working fine, though I only measured it for a few min.

It is, according to the recommended specs. I built a comp identical to this for a friend who lived on the other side of the duplex. Only difference is his PSU brand. He has no issues.

I'd go with suspect UPS.

Try your friends psu for awhile No ups, then with ups. See what happens .

The problems took a few weeks to start showing up, but I will give it a go.

Don't know what you guys are into, but have some more tits as thanks. I had a whole folder of bump-chan on my comp, but yeah.

I dig.... But unless you wanna throw down more bucks, it's about the timeframe you've got to test it with.

Also, if he's got the exact same setup, sheesh, talk about control medium.

Put your psu in his, while you use his psu for awhile. Least you can judge accurately 100 percent if its ups or psu then.

If I put my PSU in his (if it's like last time) his PC just won't turn on, like mine now. But yeah it is insanely useful to have two identical PCs.

Rma psu again to supplier. Ask for credit. Purchase his exact psu with credit.

(Why did you only choose to differ the psu lol)

Smoke a fatty. You're victorious.

An APC UPS costs ~$150 at Costco. When you buy garbage like EVGA PSUs and MSI motherboards, always get the retailer to take responsibility for the whole PC; OCZ, Seagate, are all crap. AMD and ATI drivers are also bad. Use Enermax PSUs, Intel CPUs, Kingston RAM, Sandisk/Samsung SSD, WD HDDs and a well made case with your APC UPS.

My friend got a different PSU, I got the same one twice. He got a different one because it was on sale for black friday.

Asus, corsair digital-atx, baybeeeee.

Unnnnnff.

Sparkyfag here. You've got an issue with a bad/broken neutral connection on either your main neutral bar, or somewhere in your power circuit. Pay for an electrician to come check it out and quote a repair, but for now id suggest running an extension cord to another PowerPoint that's off a different circuit. You'll keep blowing power supplies for your computer if you don't get it fixed btw.

The reason why it's doing it is because capacitors are staying charged when it's off and it has nowhere to run back to(the neutral) unless there's load put on it enough to arc and complete the circuit.

Hope this helps OP. If you need any more info, send me an email (don't laugh, I've had it since I was a child) dayofthereaper at hotmail dot commmm

Intel is way to expensive for me, and the others came highly recommended. That and the PSU was far from cheap. I may switch to a APC UPS though, as I am thinking mine is crap.

I'd be barracking to get his same one then, whatever it is, it's clearly more stable.

I very well might. Man, Sup Forums is helpful as fuck today.

I'd agree, if he weren't on UPS and had also said that he'd ran three computers there fine previous.

From what people have said in this thread, the issue is not likely the PSU. I'm going to test the UPS by stealing my friends comp while he is not using it.

by whom? # of builds, # of certs

A local PC repair shop guy, and many, many reviews online.

Then why are you on Sup Forums, asking for computer help? That expensive PSU is cheap in quality, and PC repair shop guys have an alternate agenda. Buy Enermax PSUs for ATX PCs, no exceptions.

Doesn't explain why, save a few DoAs, almost no one ever had problems with that PSU. That being said, if the issue is not the UPS I will buy a different PSU, obviously

Sparkys again. Just read through the rest of the threat, sorry I completely missed the part with the UPS.

So. Here's the funny thing with UPS's. They don't put out an AC 240v, they have a pulsating DC output (you can prove it by testing P-N with a budget meter and getting 180-190v rather than 240)

Just wondering if someone with more computer knowledge would be able to tell us what kind of damage that could do to power supplies that don't support a pulsating DC input?

(90 percent of the posts have been me ;)

I'm torn between ups and psu. You've had two of the same psu and it failed over time, both times. It goes into other mates identical machine and doesn't work either.

Your test (without paying money) like I said, would be to take his psu, try it on yours on UPS,vs off ups. (yes I know , a long time, but if that's the contention, just buy his psu)

That will allow you to determine if it's genuinely psu. Or a shit ups.

I originally only went to ups because like I said earlier... It's a chain that you need to work forward thru by elimination.

You keep failing at the 4th link in the chain. So it's either the 4th item (psu, twice, unlikely no matter what brand)

Or its something before the psu.

Since the ups is a line filter, you can reasonably eliminate dirty power and number one in the chain.

That leaves number two or three.... The power cable itself, or the ups.

Common denominator says those are your two suspect items.

very interesting post. North American standard is 110V, from what I know Europe is 220V. Where is 240V AC geographically available?

I did not know that. Interesting.

Australia for starters :D

>(90 percent of the posts have been me ;)
I guessed as much, and you are awesome for it. And I guess I will try a new power cable as well, though I would think them being the cause is rare af. My e-mail is Ijustmadethisthe2nd at gmail. If you ever want something (steam game, or whatever etc. ) when I get some cash I will happily try and repay you. I'm also a pretty good sunbro if you need/want one.

Oh god sorry, 240v is New Zealand which is what I'm used to working with. The same idea is still applied with your lower voltages. Of course instead of 110v it'll be something like 80v you'd get instead.

buy a used Enermax PSU for ~$40-50. If your PC starts, return the EVGA garbage. If it doesn't, it's not the PSU. Plugging a PC into the wall would eliminate the UPS. The cable... doubtful, unless all required inputs are not being connected. Unconnected Molex connections on a motherboard can cause irreversible damage.

Also, a decent amount of PSU's are switchable between 110 and 220/240

Not that I'd solidly know, but I'd of thought if it can handle between 220 to 240 then dc spikes wouldn't deal a huge amount of damage.

A generic PSU connected to a top shelf Asus motherboard can fry components with even a tiny power spike.

Meh, s all good man.

I know that feel of wanting to play your box only to have a supply slowly die out, and spending months trying to figure out Wtf.

I spent nearly 4k on my machine. I was goddamn spewing bile those first four months.

A new PSU will (if it's like last time) let my PC boot up. The issue takes weeks to months to start. After some reading though I will try that brand. Used is a bit scary, but I will see if I can find one (modular pref, 1000+w)

1000+ W is likely overkill. There are online calculators that will tell you what you really need. SSDs are like 10W, goes up from there... Can you give me every part in the PC, with quantity? I could probably math it out quick for you.

Yeah no joke. Which is exaclty why I waited for mine to be rma'ed, instead of caving and buying a cheapie replacement.

I was coming more from the theoretical and putting it out there more so sparky could explain to me why I was wrong.

Sparkyfag again... I'd put my money on the psu not being able to handle the ups if it's cheap as everyone is saying.

Do you have any other expensive electronics plugged into the ups? If yes, and they don't have any problems, then it's got to be your psu that isn't able to handle the pdc current, and you already have your answer.

If not, then I would strongly advise testing it with just the normal PowerPoint without the ups in the equation, and see if it works fine -you can buy cheap and effective surge protection if that's what your worried about too.

And just a side note, when a ups shits itself in my experience of working with them, they usually just stop working altogether. I haven't had one case in the 6 years I've been an electrician that a ups has supplied transient voltages or harmonics to equipment. It's not to say that it hasn't happened before, but it would be incredibly rare since I'm pretty sure they're designed to open circuit when they fault.

If the thread doesn't die. One sec.

What I do now is, order all the parts for a new PC, and pay $40 system assembly fee. Yes I can do it myself, but ~10 hours @$4/hour is not appealing. Insist they update the BIOS and all firmwares, and install windows NT6 with no key, prior to taking delivery. If any of the above is rejected, talk to the shop owner, who will agree because s/he wants the sale.

Op you may have the system 32 virus look up how to delete it and you should be good

stfu, an intelligent PC conversion is taking place.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130790
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newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536

disk drives, removable media drives, video card, sound card, etc? I need all of it.

I still love building mine. Always have always will. I dig though. If I have a customer that doesnt mind me taking on my percentage on top, then I prefer prebuilt too. Who can be arsed.

But mine? That's a me build. Always me build.

The PSU isn't that cheap. EVGA has overall pretty good ratings. On a 1-10 I'd say the general opinion is they are a 6-7. Nothing else plugged in, save a modem. I can't test it as now it will never turn on, but I will see if another comp starts to die on this UPS. If so, I will take it off and test without the UPS.

Why would you recommend google? Just post the dos commands and tell me to make a .bat.

flash.newegg.com/product/9SIA5AD32F4747\And that's it. I may get a disk drive at some point.

stop clicking the wrong download button dumbass

omg her nudes are so sexy