Picture says what I need to know. Help me out guise. I'm not trying to start a fire or anything

Picture says what I need to know. Help me out guise. I'm not trying to start a fire or anything

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where do you want to put the switch? before or after the ac/dc converter?

You should be able to wire wither one of those inline with no issue, though the easiest, safest solution if you're hesitant would be a power-strip with a switch already on it.

As long as the switch is rated for your household voltage they'll be fine, but since you're a fucking dolt, you better just wire it between the power supply and the LEDs.

I'm no electrician but you'll need the correct gauge of wire and a switch suited for the amperage. Too small of gauge and the wire will melt, too high of amperage will destroy the switch and you.

But the wall plug you showed probably brings it down if you put it on the other side of the converter so then it doesn't really matter at all

You probably can't even handle that. Get pic related.

>>>

^this. /thread

I was gonna strip a part of the DC wire, before it plugs into the LEDs, and plop the switch there.

Shit's money right there. I don't got no $$ though. I might end up with that, but I'm seeing if there's an easy cheapass solution first.

I'm certainly no EE major, but I can handle simple wiring if I know the amps and the OOOOHHHHHHms won't fuck me up somewhere

On the DC side it won't matter, it's all isolated. It's still good practice to switch the positive side though.

The DC output is 12V at 200mA. The lights specify it needs 12V, but doesn't say anything about amps, when plugged in, it seems like they work nicely.

Does any of that help determine what power level of switch I need?

Just steal one, jury rigging nigger.

Good to know. Is there an easy way to figure out which is + and -? One of the wires has the specs written on it, and the other has a dashed gray line along it.

over 9000

Jury rigging loll

If you can even work out how to wire in a switch, you probably shouldn't even attempt this...don't use a 200mA power supply on presumably meters of LED strip...

What about a tiny ass switch like this guys? I suppose it still matters on amp rating and all that shit. But surely it can't be /that/ much resistance? Not enough to affect the brightness that much?

Not sure about the line, but the few I have around the house the marked side is positive. Strangely, the marked side on household cords is neutral.

If you have a volt meter then pierce the insulation and see which one goes to the + side of the LEDs.

If you only have a screwdriver then take the case off the PSU, the circuit board should be marked.

Just buy a fuckin switch and put it in there nigger, most of em are good up to 250v and 16A, meaning if you plug it onto the dc side

Do you have a recommendation on amps? 5m of LEDs, 300 bulbs. Checked the box again, it says wattage is 24W.

Nearly any switch will work, just make sure that it's not a momentary switch. You're safe with anything bigger than a microswitch.

nigger please, it doesn't matter which side you put it on

Damn son, this psu aint that fancy. Nothing to open. Just an old shitty phone charger I got from a garage sale.

I'll go borrow a meter from school

It does if you care about safety. Putting it on the negative side means that if wires expose on the LED strip and you come into contact with them then you'll get zapped.

Having it on the positive at the start pretty much kills it then and there

the PSU might work, depending on how the LEDs are wired. The box should have come with its own PSU, or the place you bought it from (ebay?) should have specs for it.

Thanks brehs

25w / 12v = 2A

nigger, it's a dc electric circuit, do you understand how that works?

That looks like a DC adaptor. You don't want to hook those lights up directly to AC power without that adaptor in between.

You could wire your switch to the power outlet (where you plug DC adaptor into the wall) and have the switch turn the outlet itself on and off.

Makes sense. Too many physics classes have fucked me up and I can never remember if negative is actually positive or what the fuck is going on. Fucking electrons and photons and hawkings and fuck man

I think ebay.

sku search brings this up, looks to be the same.
lightingever.com/12v-led-strip-light-3528-4100057-dw.html

eh, some open, but with cheaper ones it's easier to just glue closed.

What plug is on the end? With a barrel plug, most will be center positive, and it should have a diagram on the case of the PSU. If it's a phone specific plug, like USB or some other shit, then you'll have to cut that fucker off and use a meter.

lol, depends on electron flow vs conventional flow.

Switch positive, that's how the rest of the world does it.

What kind of problems am I looking at then? Not bright enough? Saving on my energy bill?

That diagram is on them. Thxx

Still not sure which wire goes to center or not though

Fire. You need at least 2000mA.
If the power supply can't supply that, it'll overheat and burn out or catch fire...
You can also get online switches with those barrel jack connects already on the lead, you should probably just get one of them from your local electronics shop :p

Was supposed to say inline

Those have built in resistors for each group of LEDs, so anything 12v DC will work, as long as you have enough amperage for the number of LEDs.

The stripy or marked one.

No you just mean WiFi enabled switches didn't you, don't lie to me

Aight fine, I guess that's some problematic stuff, I'll surf some more garage sales for a 2A one

Tbh on all my LED lighting I do actually have remote controlled sockets... :p

Thxx
Sounds easy, I'll hit my local RadioShack

Any switch will work.
Positive or negative don't matter.

Sounds fancy. I ain't loaded bitch

ALRIGHT FAGS.
Thanks for the help. I believe my conclusion is that first, I need an old piece of shit phone charger with 12V and 2A. Second, I can wire in a small switch to the postive, or get a switch with a barrel plug already in it and stuff. Then I should be fuckin' lit.

Thanks for the help. Honestly.

And also that I should use /diy/ for the future.

No prob.
Low voltage isn't going to halm you, but to make up for low voltage the amps need to be higher, and that can get dangerous the higher it goes.
Take a 12v car battery for example, if you short the terminals with a spanner the lead terminals melt to the spanner immediately. But if you did it to a few alkerlines nothing happens (at least not very quickly). Sorry I dumbed it down a bit, but the point is you do need to respect electricity just slightly.

Nono, better to get it right on the small things. So when I'm faced with McGayyvering shit in the future I have a slightly better chance of not fucking myself so hard.

c:

You won't find an old piece of shit phone charger that puts out 2 amps, unless it's from one of these bad boys.

Electroboom on youtube is also a good channel to look at in regards to safety around electricity

Keep it phunky phresh guys. Sleepin' tiemz meow

Yeah, but there's other random chargers and stuff. Garage sales have no limits

Ha ha. Well my Mrs plugged in a washing machine into a 30 meter extension lead coiled up and it caught fire... At least you had the sense to ask first lol

any switch will work since it's low voltage. generally you put the switch on the negative so when the switch is off no current goes to the light. if you put it on the neutral you can still get zapped from the socket. but since this is low voltage it doesn't really matter.

this is why those wall mounted coiled electrical cords are bad, you know, like those garden hose coils

I think you are confusing AC and DC with low and higher voltages...

you are correct sir. in a haze of percoset etc. for fucking cancer. Sup Forums gave it to me i think.

Wait what? Why did it catch fire? lead coiled up? Should I not have extension cords coiled or something?

as long as the switch can handle the current its all good

leads coiled up cause a magnetic field
magnetic field causes additional resistance
resistance causes heat
I have seen welding cables that were left coiled melt. luckily they were seen smoking and the welder was stopped in time

switches shouldn't have any resistance

Electrician here, that cord probably had wire that was too small for the amperage of the washing machine. If it was 16 or 14 guage (as many household extension cords are) it would have caught fire even if it were straight.
Coiled up extension cords don't create field problems because the neutral is running alongside the hot. You'd have to have the hot wire forming a coil without the neutral running alongside it for it to create a field like that. This is why clamp-on Ammeters have to be around the hot wire only, putting it around both hot and neutral gives you a reading of 0 regardless of the load on the circuit.

making do and mending is a white thing though. Niggers just throw shit away