Alright you fucks, let's play a game.
Guess what I'm printing.
Also taking requests
Alright you fucks, let's play a game.
Guess what I'm printing.
Also taking requests
In case anyone cares, the estimated build time is about 4 hours
Some sort of model space ship from star wars. Also bump for potential
A meme
Close, but incorrect
I'm waiting on the nozzle to move back so I can get another pic
looks like some kind of futuristic sci fi gun
Next Pic
Is that a suggestion or a guess?
Nope
To clarify, there are 4 separate parts being printed at once
Its a guess
Incorrect
Keep this shit bumped or you fucks will never know what it is
a life for us all?
Close to a ship from star wars.
Could be something from...
Halo, star trek, warhammer 40k, Mass effect.
Could be something else from star wars.
Getting close here OP?
ATAT
Nope, but I'm hoping I'll be able to make a life out of printing shit like this
One of the ones you mentioned is correct
No, but I think I just found my next print
normandy from mass effect
That was quick
the primary hull shape gives it away
your first gf
It actually was that engine with the opening in the back that clued it as that.. in addition to hull.
A house
Alright good hussle everybody pick up your memes on the way out see you all next thursday
True enough, the wings are pretty iconic as well
Until then, I'll post a few pics of stuff I've already printed if anyone cares
go for it
i'm lurking.. how long does it take?
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More,
please and thank you
those white prints look worse than the ones i get from my prusa i3
I only got it working properly today, so I don't have much that's actually finished
Your print is looking bad man. The normandy didn't stick too well to the bed, you shouldn't need brim for it if you did it right, and your voronoi eevee was printed too hot from the strings.
Lrn2print
>t. Had a 3d print shop for the last 2 years
Well, I did only spend $300 on it...
I'm using a heated bed and 1.75mm PLA filament. What would you suggest for better adhesion? Higher bed heat?
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I run a printer too, i would use painters tape it helps with adhesion to the bed
Even with a heated bed?
You don't need to heat it too much for pla, or at all if you use other adherence promoters there. The stock for my printer was 60 but I toned it down to 40. I used glue sticks, preferably the thicker, less oilly one you can find. 3M painter tape as suggested is good too, but it's a bit more messy since you need to replace it often if the print sticks too much and tears it when ripping it off. If you have a glass or other thing you can take off and wash, use glue.
Posting some too
If I tape it, do I need to adjust the base layer height or is it negligable?
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Air ducting parts?
It's neligible, it's less than 0.1mm thick and most people use 0.2 as the initial layer anyway
Engine intake prototype for a company
>Sarah and the duck robot for my niece
Awesome
What programs do ya'll use for gcodes? Cura? Print Studio?
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I use borosilicate glass on top of a heat bed without glue and all that shit, and it seems to work fine
Does anyone want to see how the print is coming or are we over it?
Your bed leveling is off, the nozzle is too far away from the bed.
Cura is made by Ultimaker and my printer was an UM2, so I always used that. Repetier has a ton of options but I didn't like it too much and it'd be a chore to config it to work with it.
The newer Cura versions are really complete but they weren't too stable in my crappy PC
Okay, I'm already running Cura 15.04
Close but no cigar
Mine lost a few chunks and I changed it for tempered glass since it was hard to come by borosilicate where I live. Didn't notice any difference at all, printed abs heating it up to 100 degrees celsius and it never lost chunks like the borosilicate one
Sure, why not?
That's the version I ran too, not sure if it was 15.4 or 15.04, but I think it was the latter
Problems are already arising
You probably want to be using RepetierHost with Slic3r (Prusa Edition).
Correct
Again, your first layer is printed too high, so you don't get enough adhesion for those long, narrow parts, and you get curling.
Use a brim and adjust the nozzle so it almost touches the surface.
You might also want to up the extrusion width for the first layer, I usually use 200% with PLA (but then again, I also print on painter's tape)
Pla warps with too little cooling/bed too hot, plus the height problems mentioned before
Start over
Game over man, time to level and print some other shit
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I rarelly ever ran brim with PLA, only if te footprint is too narrow and the part too tall for stabilizing and avoiding it getting knocked over
Pla will only curl and warp if it's not cooled properly, and in the first layers if the bed is too hot, so when it's tuned it isn't even a concern with this material
Other user said painters tape.
I had a lot of issues with prints sticking to the bed.
Painters tape and a gluestick is GOAT.
Aquanet works ok.
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>Painters tape and a gluestick is GOAT.
This. Any other PVA glue will work also, I find it easier to just buy a liter of wood glue and either dilute it with water or just spread it thin quickly with a metal putty knife, depending on the material I'm printing and the size of the object.
Looks like I need to get some painters tape then
All jokes aside someone print me a dildo
Someone already did. Looks like it's full sized too
It's a no go
Printed tall objects are always weaker on the Z axis, so it most surely would break doing your ass. It's only useful if you make it to take a mold and make a silicon replica later
Not just any painters tape will work though. You want the thickest and widest you can find that has actual glue, the cheap thin stuff that almost unrolls itself is no good
>It's only useful if you make it to take a mold and make a silicon replica later
What kind of shops carry the kind of silicon used for casting dildos?
call Intel
Honestly I don't know. I only ever used it for making silicon molds, but some are too flabby and tear. There's a blue one that's used for molda too that is a bit harder, but I'm not sure if that'd be adequate for a dildo
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Non-manifold object, unprintable.
Dissolve some pla in a solvent. Add this very thin) to your bed. This bond the print to the plate.
I only ever saw it done with abs. The solvents for pla are a bit more dangerous to my knowledge. Plus acethone, the abs solvent, evaporates at a really low temperature (like 50~60 degrees), so it dries quickly after applying
You can also pour solvent directly on the glass bed and rub a scrap part, this works better than abs juice imo
Don't do this.