In trucks with manual transmissions like a 10 speed do you have to start at 1st and up shift and downshift through all...

in trucks with manual transmissions like a 10 speed do you have to start at 1st and up shift and downshift through all gears? how does coming up to a stop or redlight work? especially if youre in top gear and see the redlight over a hill

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it would take a crane to get out

>Like driving stick
>1st can be skipped
>High or low gears depending on grade of cliff & load
>Pop the clutch drop out of gear and brake
Volvo and their ishift ishits are taking over, prefer a Alison any day over the shitty ishit.

The gear you start at depends our your weight. I drive a 10 speed. Unloaded I start in 3rd and bobtailing I can start in 5th or 6th. Coming to a stop I like to downshift as I slow to ease off the brakes but you can push in the clutch and just brake all the way if you wanted.

You start in a gear relative to load weight. If on a hill you go lower. I used to drive and Eaton Super 10. 2nd stick position in low range was usual start off gear.

Exactly.

Split box?

You can't drive.

>volvo are taking over

wow because they don't have 800,000 miles on them, and all the murica' company's are price gouging the new shit hard? why wouldn't you look at that...

I can drive. Or at least nobody has stopped me yet

>Automatic

Mostly this. Serious weights require a more serious approach but this is trucking in a nut shell

>Terrible dpf system
>Tsb for mil active no codes or snaps
>Have one which reprograms itself every other month
>After year either rebuild or replace half the harness
>Volvo will not sell small pieces to make repairs
>15 trans sent out for warranty work, always comes back fucked and I have to work on top of that (solenoid not engiaing, leaking gaskets, and misc.)
>2 years in as a Volvo fleet mechanic

Gear splitters...

I'm actually looking for a semi to use as a rodeo rig. I want a sleeper and a single axle.
(I know I will probably end up dropping an axle and chopping the frame myself)
Lots of pros and a few cons to getting a tractor for rodeo. Anyways are there any years or trucks I should absolutely avoid? I'm looking to spend about $20k and probably will get something with a rebuild motor with this price. But I'm only looking at 25k miles a year with a 6 ton load

Depends on where you plan to go, California will ass rape you if your not "clean idle Worthy"
>Cummins engines are great
>New Navistar engines are shit
>If possible get pre 2006 dpf free or do deleted
Anything you were looking at already? Have you asked /o/?

Depends on weight and what kind of grade you're on... I used to haul light loads in Florida and would start in 4th

I don't really trust /o/. Maybe the trucker threads might be worth looking into but there's so much trash to go through. I've been finding some kenworths Volvo's and Pete's with the cat or a Cummins with 500-800k miles mostly in frame rebuilds.

Here is a truck
ksl.com/classifieds/listing


I got two more I'll post

>Pop the clutch drop out of gear and brake

Are you fucking serious? NEVER roll a semi truck in neutral. Engine braking is a necessary tool. You are just a tool.

ksl.com/classifieds/listing

ksl.com/classifieds/listing/45697660

doesnt even how to stick

Oops. Try this again
ksl.com/classifieds/listing/45698937

Go get an Ford 650, you won't have to have commercial insurance.

>can't downshift

Angel gear cunt

Oh shiiijeeeettt

Depends on the torque of your engine, the weight of your load, the grade you're on.
When empty on flat ground, I can usually start off in 3rd.
When fully loaded, I need to start in 1st, but on flat land, I can skip shift to 3rd. I need to use 2nd only on upgrades.

I've driven freightliners, volvos, internationals, and peterbilts. I've even used a super 10.
Give me an Eaton Fuller 12 speed any day.

For stopping, I just leave it in gear until the engine is just about to lug. Then I either downshift or just clutch till I'm stopped. I know that's not how it's supposed to be done, but I've been floating the clutch most my life. I'm not about to change my habits. I've worked for a half dozen companies and my mileage is always in the top 20% of all 6 companies. So they don't complain either.

ksl.com/classifieds/listing/45697660

can you heel tow down shift in a rig like that?

its not out of gear if he's holding the clutch down

I've looked at the 650 and the Kodiak/top kicks
They're over priced for what kind of truck they really are. And I can register a semi as a recreational vehicle.

Engine braking is not necessary for flat land and can even fuck up the U-joints when used on an upgrade during shifting. Plus, it's terrible for fuel mileage. Regular use is NOT recommended. But I know a lot of guys who just leave it on even when it fucks with their shifting

Well, I learned in the double-clutch days. I guess you kids have better brakes and easier trannys now.

So did I, but I learned how to float the clutch too.
It takes practice, but floating the clutch can be as easy on the tranny as double clutching.
But it takes practice. I always suggest people stick with company driving until they get good at it. No sense tearing up your own equipment.

Sorry, bud. I live in the Rockies and engine braking is even recommended for cars.

>Engine braking is not necessary for flat land

I concur. Maybe old habit, but I still prefer to have my driveline engaged if for no other reason than the ability to apply power immediately if needed in an emergency.

>No sense tearing up your own equipment

Not saying you have to clubfoot the clutch or slap the tach needle against the stop. To be fair, I haven't driven trucks for a long time, but I still downshift in manual trans cars. Saved my ass more than once when I had to dive out of someone's way.

These days, when your drive line is engaged and you're slowing down, the modern engine is using zero fuel. None whatsoever. So it makes sense to keep it in gear as long as possible. Throwing it out of gear and coasting actually costs more fuel because now the engine needs fuel to idle.
But jake brakes are just a terrible waste of fuel unless you're trying to save your brake pads.

Which brings me to a big emphatic, hell yeah, I use the engine brake on pretty much anything over 3.5%. I hardly ever touch my brakes on passes like the 4th of July or Donner Pass, or Devils Slide.

So like on the road if youre at 50 mph in 10th gear how the heck do you downshift through all ten gears going clutch-throttle-clutch? in a car sometimes ive come to an unexpected stop sign around a corner and had to brake quickly. mind explaining, this really interests me

I learned to drive a truck on a 13 speed roadranger. They're not bad, but I prefer a 10 speed.

Ah, I see where we missed each other. I merely meant using normal engine compression, not jake braking. Sorry about the confusion.

Oh, hell no. By the time the engine is starting to lug, I'm ready to downshift from 10th to 6th. Then from 6th to 4th. Then I'll coast to a stop.

I learned to drive without using the clutch except for stopping and starting.

you dont need to enter each gear in order to shift, so going from 10th straight to 5th or whatever have you can be easily done depending onspeed

Well, it's good to teach these greenhorns anyway. So the information is out there.

That's called floating the clutch. Many a transmission and U-joint has died while people develop that skill.

how do you stop fully? i know theat if you press all the way down while moving on the clutch it can burn up the clutch brake

also on a cdl test would they be okay with skipping gears or do they want a full up and down shift because that sounds like it would be a workout and im not trying to sound lazy

Yup. I still rev-match in my car, with or without the clutch.

Skip shifting is cool, I just like to keep enough revs to be able to re-spool the turbo if necessary.

Yeah, the only time you ever push the clutch to the floor is when you're fully stopped. That's called the clutch brake and it's designed to stop the gears from spinning freely.
And as I said, I float the clutch, so I never use the clutch unless I'm completely stopped.
It's a gestalt kind of thing, you have to know the RPMs of the motor, the speed at which you're going, the gear you're in and the load on the engine in order to successfully float the clutch.
Even then, my engine will fuck me over by kicking on the AC or the fan the moment I try to shift. Just that can fuck up shift if you're floating it.

car trannies are different beasts altogether. Cars trannies are synchronous. Meaning, the gears synchronize automatically so the teeth always mesh. Semi trannies are asyncronous, meaning they you have to do it yourself. Either by timing, or by double clutching.

I don't float the clutch in a passenger vehicle. The synchros make shifting that way feel sluggish.

> Cars trannies are synchronous

Of course I know that. Rev-matching reduces wear on synchros, too.
I need to hit the rack. Drive consiously, gents.

Floating the clutch is easy for me now. I usually shift with just two or three fingers. It would be far easier for me to show you than it is to explain how.
But it's not as simple as it sounds because wind resistance, road grade, the gear you're in, the RPMs of the engine - all change the timing of your shift ever so slightly. You have to account for that all almost subconsciously. I teach people on flat ground and tell them to keep using the clutch everywhere else until floating becomes second nature. Then they can expand into other conditions. It usually takes a couple years at least to get good, and a lot of people never get that good.
They usually end up in the shop replacing trannies and U-joints.