Hi, total noob here.
Whoever can help me diagnose and fix my car (I do manuals if possible) I will transfer 20€ into their paypal account.
So this light is constantly flashing and the issue is that when I press the acceleration pedal the revs go up, engine starts making noises but the car is barely speeding up.
Car is Ford Fiesta Zetec 2005
Any ideas?
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You need a code reader or at least in USA most auto part stores will hook up and tell you exactly what the fault is
I don't even know what code reader is.
It's fucked. That's the exact symptoms that happen when you have an issue with the throttle system. This could be the throttle body, a poor solder joint, the throttle pedal itself or the ECU. People have spent well over €1K trying to fix this. The fault codes will say it needs a new throttle body but that won't fix it long term (might work for a couple of months). Do yourself a favour and scrap it.
go to your local garage place and get the diagnostics done, theyll plug in a little machine and it will give you a bunch of error codes so you can narrow it down
>20€
Eurocuck detected
Enjoy your refugees
Google 'ford fiesta EAC fail', you'll get LOADS of results, I'm guessing yours hasn't got bad enough yet for "EAC fail" to appear on the dash. It WILL happen.
Its an automatic?
Maybe TRANSMISSION problem.
If you do pull TRANSMISSION code, you could try friction additives.
Wait. Check TRANSMISSION fluid level. If it's low it may not engage well
That's the "Motorkontrollleuchte" (Engine Control). It means, that "something" is wrong and the car is running at thr "Notprogramm" (safe mode) - which is indeed slow. You need to go to a "Werkstatt" to have it fixed.
Its the check engine light. Just pop the hood and check if the engine is still there.
dude engine light flashing means you have a missfire could be a fucked engine, a bad fuel injector, bad spark plug, bad icm, or a bad ignition coil. have fun
could be, more likely that it is spark or fuel related since it's blinking, which is the engine telling you it's misfiring.
I would check plugs, wires, fuel delivery
Just too much air in your tires, release about half of it, then go have your flux capacitor changed, looks like you need a new one.
Oxygen sensor or some kind of sensor. Check gas cap. Check for lose or broken hoses. Unplug battery it will reset and check if light comes back on. Could be gasket failure. Could be converter.
I'd ignore it.
1k on throttle when part is like 250 bux. Good to be usa
Any idiot can tell if those are bad
As long as the bulge is only on the bottom your tire is okay. If its bulged on top and bottom then you have issues.
Get that thing to a mechanic, pronto. The chexk engine light can sometimes be innocuous, but when it flashes that means there is a serious problem. Go get it looked at by a professional.
Bad carb. But my guess is sensors. Get every sensor and replace. It's like 500 bux
If car starts and runs then ignore it
I forgot fuel filter. Id bypass that
Bad Mass air flow sensor
Drill 5 holes in converter. You're welcome.
Tighten 18 bolts on the engine. Youre welcome.
I've taken shityiest cat to 500k miles.
Stop listening to all these assholes guessing at shit.
What this guy said is what you need. Get an OBD2 reader from the store it's like 30 bucks and hook it up to the diagnostic port on your car (should be down near your knees under the steering wheel)
Scan the car and see what code it comes up with. OR if you can't do this, take it to a shop to get the code read and it will quite literally TELL YOU what is wrong.
It can be sort of technical, but honestly it's fucking easy. That's why it was created. OBD = On Board Diagnostic. If you see the CEL (Check Engine Light) the car is telling you it has registered a fault in one of its sensors.
Could be fucking anything. So all these people saying it's this or that are guessing at shit and you could spend half the value of your car replacing shit and not get at the problem. This isn't 1960, we have the technology. USE IT.
Just get the fucking code read somewhere then look it up and price shop. I work in a full service shop it could be something stupid like a maf is dirty or your it could be bad and your transmission is fucked.
It's a lose hose or bad wire
>Ford
His transmission is fucked
As this guy says - any garage will have a suitable OCD reader and it is not worth buying for just thus occasion.
As other user said, throttle responsee is because it is in limp mode so ecu restricts the engine.
Could be as simple as a bad oxygen sensor or fuel sensor - who knows until the garage tells you.
Better that than getting stuck at a junction then pulling out on a truck and joining a rekt thread!
Ok guys, I'll just take it to the professional because I have no fucking clue what you are talking about. I have never even changed a sparkplug. Thanks for your help anyway.
Time to convert into hybrid or dump money into batteries and go electric
This guy gets it.
Here you go.
Bad battery
you should just buy a prius
Automatic: transmission leaking out the oil maybe a line clip.
Manual transmission: need a new pressure plate.
>Ford
>Fucked transmission
He bought a broken car to start off with.
Get an OBD2 reader. Follow its instructions. Google the code given by the device.
By personal experience I would say ignition coil failure.
You are welcome, spend your Euros on something worthwhile. Hopefully not on a repairman.
My pussywagon
I don't want to overstate the obvious but don't listen to any of the U.S. based posters in this thread OP, their a nation of simpletons. If they can't eat it or shoot it, they can't understand it.
From what you've described it sounds like the clutch is on its way out. The engine warning light may, or may not be related to this. It could very well relate to any number of other issues, both minor and major. But, if the revs climb when you press the accelerator but you don't get a corresponding increase in speed, the chances are the clutch is slipping. It's a serviceable part with a limited life time, so should be relatively cheap to have replaced.
A flashing check engine light means there's an active misfire detected by the OBD (on board diagnostic) computer
Any number of things could be the cause here. It could be as simple as a fouled up spark plug or any number of more complicated issues. I'll second hooking it up to a OBD reader. Where I'm from, you can get this done for free at any auto parts store. It will give you a code and short description (ex: P0303: cylinder 3 misfire) The clerk may have some advice to give you, but the best way I've found is to Google the year, make and model and the trouble code and read up on if it's a common issue.
>Ford Fiesta
Nigga why the fuck are you driving that
First of all you're drive a pos ford and 2nd you need to get the code to see what's the problem is. It could be hundreds of other things. I have check engine light in my car but I pull the bulb out since its drives fine as is.
How you learn ;)
Get your exhaust system checked. y
Mechanic here if it's blinking it could be the catalytic converter
I did too. No light, no problem.
Mass airflow sensor is fucked
Check the battery has enough voltage, could cause all sorts of issues if its on its way out. Should be like 13-14v or some shit.
transmission is fucked
headlight fluid, muffler bearings. GL OP
Electrical or mechanical if car won't accelerate. Starts and runs fine and I drove it fine but car would not accelerate.
Some idiot replaced plugs. Dealer refused to touch it. 65k car got thrown away.
I think it was electric and transmission. Code directed to the engine.
For fuck sake, the amount of total bullshit in this thread is terrifying.
Its your emissions light, mate. Your exhaust needs looked at, or it could just be a fault in the system. Take it in to your local garage and theyll sort you out. Its pretty common with Fords.
Also - I have yet to see a car manual that does not emphasize that FLASHING CEL LIGHT MEANS ENGINE FAILURE, TO AVOID SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE HEAD STRAIGHT TO A MECHANIC.
I drive a Suzuki (manual because Euro) myself. Rather a Jap than a shitty American car.
Lex and I forgot model. 4 years old with less than 40k miles. I offered 5k for it.
Its important to know how to troubleshoot and mechanics are bad at that. This time codes were directing to the engine and engine was fine. Mechanic may have caused damage.
Plugs are aways good for 120k miles.
OP here. Sorry I used the wrong word - that engine light is not flashing, it's just always there. Sometimes it blinks when I push the acceleration hard, like revs go up to 4-5k and car speeds up 1mph^2
Indeed.
no shit sherlock
Make sure your gasoline cap is tight.
Turn the key in and off 10 times should give you a code which you can Google.
It's shorting. Check wiring. Starts with simple. Battery, wiring, then parts.
Bad wiring, airflow cause light to come on.
Ekg valve
/thread
The icon is an engine
I had that light when my Catalyst needed to be replaced.
Fucking google it then.
It being there can be really anything the onboard system deems to be wrong. That by itself should make you take it to a mechanic. But it flashing while accelerating directly points to misfire of some sort.
Good cars
American cars are not bad or as bad as the other. I have 5 junk yards within walking distance.
The problem is the idiot between the steering wheel and the seat. To repair, sell the car or learn to Google.
You're a dense one, aren't you?
Hey, not ALL of them are bad. Most of them need to drive 100s of miles/KM's a day.
I have a Swift Sport, only need to drive 10km/day so it's perfect.
Car is not running
Hmm let's check plugs
Missing
It went down hill and got destroyed for insurance purposes
No I said they were good :)
One I posted was one I like most
Parts Fag here, go to a shop and ask them to scan your car via OBD2 and it will tell you your car is a piece of shit
Check oil.
Can be leaking or going into the engine
Yep. This. But it is misfiring.
I already know that so no need to waste my time.
yourmechanic.com
Im not him, but hes right. So yeah. Fuck you on his behalf, I guess.
If it’s just leaking, I would assume the oil can light would be flashing (oil pressure problem). I had this when the oil went to the engine in a manner that was not by design. Sad thing.
Scanning....
Code: Ox9FE Car is piece of shit
Got 3 shifts to cover so I can pay rent, peace lovecicle.
I had that light and same sounding symptoms on my Ford Fiesta a couple of years ago.
I didn't have a clue wtf if was about but the roadside assistance man fixed it by just popping the hood and checking all the sparkplug caps. One of them must have been loose.
Change the spark plugs mate, this is exactly what is wrong with your motor, a 10 minute job and cheap as well.
Sensor can pick up and cause light but yeah tru. All diagnostics is like just by starting the car rofl
Sounds like the lambda sensor is broke... had the same symptoms on my car, it's getting worse and finally the car won't accelerate at all
Ali express I know that trick some nice grills
Nice dubs. Next on KTLA5 News At Noon: assuming not a troll, how dense has someone to be to bring a question like this to Sup Forums?
Sparkplugs. Change them. If it's not accelerating at full pelt, it's because some of the plugs have gone and it's not getting the same power.
You can do this job yourself.
Fiy check engine light was invented by the Jews. It often is a minor issue. I'd learn how to change tires.
Get one of those $5 ELM327 OBDII scanners
(then use an app like torque pro on your smartphone to access the scanner)
The cheap ones are slow at reading but are good for pulling error codes.
Also pull the data from the air intake sensors.
The ECU will log any info relating to misfires as well as report issues related to improper octane fuel used.
That's good advice but OP has called RPM's "revs". You might as well have typed that in Japanese for him.
Fill your gas tank with dome olive oil and ammonia, that would fix that engine shit. And for the headlights, I think you need to change the bulbs.
It should still be simple for him, as even if he doesn't understand much about the car, he could at least pull the error code, and then search for a repair video on youtube, and follow along to repair his car.
Even if you just stopped being Amish, and havde your first car ever, and just learned to drive, issues relating to air intake, and anything near the top of the engine, should be handles by the user of the car, there is no need to pay a mechanic unless it is something where you need to lift the car.
Reset and see if light comes on instance and if it does. It's minor part problem or simple maintenance. If not, it's mechanical. Bad hoses.