/pcbg/ PC Building General

What is Kurisu browsing? Edition

Previous: >Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL

>Information about how to build a pc, how to select components, and much, much more advice.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

- Post your list, rate other user's, ask questions in general.

- Always state the purpose of your PC and your budget. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/NG2fPs
pcpartpicker.com/list/C2bZZ8
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/4ZMgtJ
eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-2016-is-it-finally-time-to-upgrade-your-core-i5-2500k
pcpartpicker.com/list/4LrCzM
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125884)
pcpartpicker.com/list/n8Lxcc
pcpartpicker.com/list/xHvF8K
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=304758
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=306289
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=310267
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=315849
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=311459
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=306702
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=304944
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=311120
pcpartpicker.com/list/2G9YgL
ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i5-4570-3-2GHz-Quad-Core-SR14E-CM8064601464707-Processor-/262579666178
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

We should add to the op this line:
-The purpose of this thread is to consolidate discussion. If you see any other "Build Threads" or "PCPartPicker Threads", please politely redirect them here.
There's probably a better way to format that though.

How long do these generals usually last?

Might as well ask here.

I upgraded from an old Nehalem system to Skylake not long ago. I was gonna use the Nehalem board/CPU/RAM as a home server, so I removed the overclock and put Linux on it.

Wasn't stable. It'd hang after several hours. (I'd see my terminal windows blaring warnings about how the NMI Watchdog detected CPU# X was stuck. For all values of X, not just one core) I set the memory timings loose and added some more voltage. 1.25 wasn't stable, I'm priming 1.3 now, and it's lasted 7 hours. But that's a lot for a Nehalem, especially at stock. Stock settings on the mobo had it asking for 1.19v.

It'd never given me a bit of trouble in Windows, even wound up from 2.8GHz to 3.6. I'm worried that it needs this much voltage at stock speeds. Is it possible it's damaged and slowly on its way out, after many years of running overclocked?

Running over clocked can shorten the life of the whole system, especially your mobo. I'm no expert, but I'd expect that to be the first problem.
That said, this is more about selection of parts for a new build, or asking questions about the building process. (How do I plug this, or route this cable? What kind of fan setup should I use?)

pcpartpicker.com/list/NG2fPs

are there any ways I can cut costs on this build while keeping everything reasonably high quality? It's for 1440p gaming.
I also heard this one particular power supply had some not great reviews. Can anybody suggest decently reliable 600+ watt unit that has all black cables? I don't care if it's bronze or whatever. As long as it won't die on me and is affordable.

How do you clean your desktop?
>compressed air
Too expensive
>specialized electric blower duster
A hundred dollars for a hair dryer?
>hair dryer
Too hot
>Blow on it
Maybe

Does your hair dryer not have a cold setting? Most either can turn it off or have a special witchcraft quick-chill function and make it super cold really quickly. In conjunction with one of those nozzle things they're great.

I'm shopping around for my first build and I'm a bit suspicious, would appreciate any feedback.

EVGA 1060 minis are like golddust here, barely any in stock and stock tends to go quickly. Zotac 1060 minis, on the other hand, are easily available and cost slightly less. Zotac have a longer warranty than EVGA, although I've heard EVGA customer service is second to none.

Is there any reason not to wait for EVGAs to come back in stock and just grab a Zotac?

Zotac were more expensive here, then I pre-ordered a EVGA GTX 1060 GAMING for 289€, it should arrive in a couple of week.
*tension intensifies*

Wanna build a PC for video editing, 3D modeling/rendering and animation work (mainly animation though). I don't intend to overclock it.

I'm fucking clueless, but how does this build look like? [spoiler]its a prebuilt gaming PC[/spoiler]

>i7-5820K
>Cooling: Corsair Hydro H55
>MOBO: Gigabyte GA-X99M-Gaming 5 X99
>SDD: SSD Kingston UV400 240GB
>HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB SATA3
>RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury 2x8GB DDR4
GPU: MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX960 OC 4GB DDR5

By the way I keep seeing recommandations to get two of the same graphic cards for the same computer. Why? How does that work?

She's embarrassed about using "@channel", a fictional Sup Forums counterpart in the steins;gate universe.

build your own and skip on the graphics card or buy a used gtx titan
ram better be 3000mhz cas14-15
ssd is fine
hdd is fine but blacks are loud as fuck
gigabyte boards are pretty... eh. stick with asus/evga

also sli is a complete waste for your goal. ignore dual card (gpu) setups

...

Would a 2500K bottleneck a 1070 ?

First time builder. Coming close to purchasing an want to make sure there are no obvious mistakes.

This build is mostly for 60-120fps gaming on 1080p. As well as some low level video/music/ps work.

Build;
>pcpartpicker.com/list/C2bZZ8

Budget was €700-800 but has settled around €850.

Do I really need to spend €80 on PSU? Its a quality unit but I've toyed with others half the price.

Are ya overclocking that, user?

> 60-120fps gaming on 1080p
>i5
>1060

That isn't going to happen user.

oh :( I dont understand the things..

I need to cut back the cost on this machine. However it will be for professional use, editing videos.
What do?

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/4ZMgtJ

some of the parts.

>960
Hahahahahahahahahaha

About how much life does an i7 920 overclocked to 4.5GHz still have these day? I wouldn't mind playing between middle and high to get 60FPS.

Oh, I misread your post as
>How will it be for professional video editing?

But if you want the answer for that anyway:
Hilariously bad.

tl;dr you need an absurd amount of hardware to push high framerates in the latest and greatest games, even at 1080p.

You could stick to 8GB to save a bit of $$$. The items are decent as-is. Going down a tier would hurt more than the $$$ saved.

eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-2016-is-it-finally-time-to-upgrade-your-core-i5-2500k
Compared to a 6600K, yes, a bit, especially if you are on a 144Hz screen. But not so much that it is worth it to upgrade to a new CPU if you are tight on cash.

Sandy Bridge was something like ~40% of an upgrade, and we have had ~4 generations of ~5% upgrades since. So you are getting maybe half the performance of a modern CPU.

Past the bump limit.

Look at workstations with xeons in them instead. More cores will be better for you because rendering is heavily multithreaded.

Looks like it's starting to, but overclock that bitch.

The 1060 is perfectly fine for most games at 1080p.

>total war
>optimized

...

>ubishit
>worth playing

Haven't needed to with only a 970, if I OC it how bottle necked would I be?

I'm on a 144hz screen which is why I'm looking at a 1070, I'm feeling the dips bad

>finish a build
>Immediately start planning the next one
Anybody else have this feel?

Have you tried undervolting?

I want to build a pc for:
-Work with Autodesk products like Autocad and Revit
-Adobe products like photoshop, illustrator, indesign, etc
-Some gaming

Should I get a faster four core cpu, or a slower six core cpu? Or, is there another specific cpu you guys would recommend?

Is GTX 1060 more powerful than GTX 970?

I say the x99 platform is up your alley. Intel 5xxx or broadwell-e depending on budget.
Yes. More powerful, more Vram, newer, cheaper, less power. There's no reason to buy a 970 unless you find one for $210 new.

Thank you. I asked about the GTX 970 not because I want to buy it, infact I already pre-ordered a GTX 1060. I'm asking because I want to have a general idea on how my card will behave in certain games I like, because GTX 1060 gameplay videos are basically non-existent for the games I play.

>no argument

she found someone had leaked her sex tapes

>Xeon
Didn't know these things existed. Searched for them in popular PC shops in my country, no one sells them. Guess they're too pricey for the common user.

Thanks
I'd rather stick with Nvidia, is the card in my previous post good enough or is there anything better (in the same price range)?
RAM is 2400mhz, will ask for an upgrade and a blue HDD

>Didn't know these things existed

Thats because the average pleb has absolutely zero need for a xeon.

Hello /pcbg/, I come from /fgg/ (fighting game general) from /vg/. Input lag is obviously a big factor for purchasing a monitor when it comes to gaming, however, as a fighting game player, most, if not all of our games only go up to 1080p since we mainly play on console. However as someone looking to get into PC gaming as well I noticed how some people are looking to get into 1440p gaming, even up to 4k.

So my question is, can monitors 1440p and above do well as a console monitor too? Or will the upscale look ugly and/or they may not have the minimal input lag I'm looking for (Display Lag only has info on 1080p monitors and HDTVs iirc) The reason I'm asking this is because I'm looking to build a PC with a GTX 1070 (or maybe 1080) since I have money to burn desu

However if the answer to the question above is no. Then I may as well save money and just build a PC that can play games in high/ultra settings in 1080p (since I already have an ASUS MX279H) with the GTX 1060 (when they become available again...... someday) or maybe an RX 480 (assuming I don't care about the parts burning)

Figured this place was the best place to ask my question.

I'm not building a PC, I'm upgrading my current one with a simple GTX 1060. I previously had 680. I got my 1060 today, hooked it up and my computer doesn't make it POST.

CPU, RAM, VGA LED all flash successfully but Boot_device doesn't. It get's stuck there and never boots up bios.

If I have a monitor hooked up, the motherboard VGA light shines and stops there. Not making it POST. Replacing the 1060 with my older (Radeon)AMD 6770 and it works just fine. Boots up normally.

Does this mean my 1060 is defect?
Here are my current specs
>Sabertooth P67 | Motherboard
>i7 2600k @ 4,0ghz
>HyperX 1333hz 16 gb Ram
>2x 120gb SSD | 1x WD Green 1TB

Lights in webm goes as follow:
>CPU LED
>RAM LED
>VGA LED
>Boot LED

1st time builder here.

All my parts are delivered. How long does it take to put everything together would you say?

Like, when you built your first, how long?

Nuke drivers, reset cmos, disable any cpu overclocks and generally set your system back to stock and test from there.

Anyone have a Asus x99 deluxe 2? How is it? Is it easy to get hardare passthrough running on?

About 1 hour for each part to make sure you didn't make any fatal mistakes.

After that maybe 30 minutes total when you realize computer parts really aren't that fragile.

I'd honestly just invest in a good air compressor. They last forever and are totally worth the investment. You can get them from arts & craft stores or Sears/Home Depot etc. The one my mom bought like 30 years ago still works great. Cleans the shit out of a dusty old case. We obviously use it for filling car tires and shit too.

>b-but it won't fit in my room which is a partitioned corner in my mom's basement
leave it in the garage where it belongs nerd.

when the fuck is evga going to add their dual 1060 gtx card

it's the only thing left i'm waiting for

pcpartpicker.com/list/4LrCzM

budget of $1600, how does this look? I have no idea what I'm doing any more honestly

You want to reduce cost? Or improve within your given budget? As far as getting a good machine out of $1524, there isn't a whole lot left to improve on. Id rather use a 1070, but I remember the other thread you said you want an AMD card, and that's the best one there is.

I won't comment on the monitor because I know nothing about them.

I'd really prefer an Nvidia card since they seem superior at every level, but I cannot justify buying an inferior monitor just to have G-Sync. The monitor in my list is one of the best 144hz 1080p monitors, but with Freesync, so I'm locked in to AMD unless I massively increase my budget to accommodate the 1070 and PG248Q (which is good but not as nice).

Just looking to improve within the range of $1500-$1600. The only thing I've truly researched in depth are a shit ton of monitors, so if there's a better case or fan or mobo or something, I'm willing to switch. If there's nothing left to improve on, I'll lock it in and start ordering the pieces in 3 weeks or so. at least it will be a massive weight lifted off my shoulders

thank you for all the help between the multiple threads

I reset Cmos, I was going to reset it by taking out the battery. But that became a very hard thing to do when the stupid "Thermal Armor" on my motherboard blocks it. I plugged in my old GPU, booted bios and "Loaded optimized settings". Plugged in my 1060 and it booted!

However, downloading driver for 1060 doesn't work, when attempting to install it says; "This Nvidia graphics driver is not compatible with this version of windows." Fucked up, as I'm running Win10 x64 with the appropriate driver selected.


Same for when installing through Experience.
I then downloaded Display Driver uninstaller from Guru3D and did a clean whipe. But I did it with 1060 hooked up. Not sure if that has anything to do with this problem.

Will bumping your SSD up to 500gb still fit your budget? I find it super convenient to not have to move shit off my SSD all the time. only big files go on my hard disk.

> I plugged in my old GPU, booted bios and "Loaded optimized settings". Plugged in my 1060 and it booted!

Reseting cmos is one of the things to do when shit won't even boot but naturally it will nuke all of your custom configurations.

>I then downloaded Display Driver uninstaller

DDU is the default answer to any and all driver installation woes as it nukes all the registry shit AMD's and Nvidia's uninstaller leaves behind. Hell if you are ultra paranoid you should run it before even installing a newer driver (but 99% of the time its unneeded).

Yeah, I had to. These past few days I've gone from 680 to 570 to amd 6770. ALl with driver uninstall and install. So pretty sure that's why my 1060 couldn't boot POST

Clearing cmos helped, but now I got a new problem. I cannot install any driver for my 1060.
Nvidia gives me error then i tried installing it through windows devices. pic related. I have no idea what to do.

I spent $1200 on a monitor, help

I just got conned by the WD Green-to-Blue rebrand and brought it home before finding the RPM label indicating it's sub-7K (and of course no seek speed or platter information on the box because who needs those lol!) because I am incompetent, abuse me please.

Update bios. sometimes P67 boards that don't have UEFI will have compatibility issues with Maxwell and higher GPUs.

Now I'm pissed. I ran DDU again, in safe mode.
Turned out there was leftovers from 570 driver. Not a problem clean it out and restart.. Ran it again just to check.. Only "Microsoft Display adapter" was found, which is what it should be. But attempting to install Nvidia driver gives me pic related error.. what the fuck..

I don't remember the exact bios version im on, but I do believe I'm running the latest version. Even if not, I do have UEFI. But I'll double check.

Yes, running Bios Rev 3602. Just for the fuck of it, i re-flashed it but nothing's changed. same issue.

Going to refresh Cmos again, install 6770. Driver and all. Whipe it again properly with DDU and install 1060...I don't know what else to do.

I want a gtx 1070 with the evga acx3.0 cooler to match my black and white build. The SC version is only $20 more than the base cooler version, but I'm a cheap fuck and I'm trying to reduce the price of my build. Should I just get the SC version? What's the difference other than a little bit of core clock?

overclock it yourself, dont pay 20 bucks for them to overclock it for you

how is this thread dead

Honestly, I think it's just Falcon and 2 or 3 of the same user's giving advice. We've probably eaten up most of the people with new builds for now. The board itself is rather slow at the moment too.

Why do gamers insist on using an ssd? It barely helps game performance.

Ok, since the thread is slow, here's a bit of a challenge, Assemble the cheapest poorfag Witcher 3 machine you can that can hit say, 60 fps on the high preset with post-processing off. This means you probably at least need a gtx 960, or if you're a bargain hunter, a used 780 or some such. The real question is, what what cpu/chipset to run? You can get an i3 6100, a cheapo z170 mobo, and OC the piss out of it, or you could maybe find a haswell i5 and an even cheaper mobo, use stock intel cooler.

The logicalincrements $589 build will be the benchmark. No housefire power supplies, cases with no airflow, ect. Pretend it's a system you'd actually want to use. Refurb parts are fine, but link to prove it actually exists (i.e newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125884)

This is for the people in the thread that like putting together lists, since there's nobody asking for lists right now.

fury x guy here should I wait for the rx 490? I can't start buying the components until 3-4 weeks from now anyway, so that might push me pretty close to the 490 release, right? is the 4gb a concern for the fury x?

I can't even really think what I'd put on the ssd aside from the OS and WoW. what do you put on yours that would fill up 250gb, let alone 500gb? just your most played games?

I used mine for a boot drive but it apparently helps loading screens.

Since i posed the challenge, i'll give my attempt here: pcpartpicker.com/list/n8Lxcc

(i.e newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125884) for the video card. The same one I linked in the other post. Just did that as an example though.

>is the 4gb a concern for the fury x
Uhh as far as "future proofing" for 1440p ultra settings games? Yes. Even current titles can easily use 4gb. The problem is nobody REALLY knows when Vega launches. There's been whispers. Supposedly October official release date. You COULD buy the whole machine, use it for a little while on intel graphics, and just slap a video card in later. It's a weird time in the market, that's for sure.

Oh damn. I didn't realize the i3 can't overclock except on those select few motherboards. I guess we'll go with this instead;
>pcpartpicker.com/list/xHvF8K

Complete noob here, what should I look for in a power supply? I have crossfired graphics cards (someone else built it) and want a supply better than my current one which is freezing my pc because not enough power (600w). Good/bad brands?

No it's a fictional 2channel equivalent. Going to an American imageboard to reconnect with Japanese culture instead of a Japanese textboard doesn't make sense.

So I have the dubious 'pleasure' of building my first PC in South Korea.
I kinda managed to scavenge together the parts that I need to put together what I want, but I'm unsure about one thing; did I choose the right CPU? There's literally 13 variations of it and I have no idea which one would be better or worse.

The one I picked here is a 'mini'.
>icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=304758

Should I get a 'regular'?
>icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=306289

Or should I get an H170 based on the rest of the build?

I'm not that knowledgeable and dealing with this in Korean is a bitch so any help would be appreciated.
Also if I missed anything crucial please let me know.

Please note that prices are very different here than in the US, and I know about Danawa. I might just go to Yongsan in person and scrape everything together if the price difference between that and this online store is significant.

j/k I said 13 but I meant 'a gazillion'

I pulled up all the 'regular' size ones.

Asus B150 PRO GAMING/AURA
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=310267

Asus B150-PLUS
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=315849

ASRock B150 Pro4/3.1
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=311459

Gigabyte G1.Sniper B7
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=306702

Asus B150 PRO GAMING D3
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=304944

Asus B150PRO
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=311120

Gigabyte GA-B150-HD3
icoda.co.kr/goods/detail.html?num=306289

Does it matter what I choose?

What's the best bang for your buck GPU right now?

RX 470

From a pure price vs performance perspective a 470 basically invalidates every other gpu.

rate

>WD Blue 1TB 7200rpm SATA
>Alpenföhn Atlas - 200W TDP
>EVGA 500W 80 Plus Power Supply
>Dynamode Compact Bluetooth™ USB adapter (BT-USB-M2)
>Antec P280 Super Midi Tower Case - Gun Metal Black
>Asus Z170-K Intel Z170 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard
>Crucial 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 PC4-17000C16 2133MHz Quad Channel Kit
>Intel Core i5-6600K 3.9GHz
>Kingston HyperX Fury 240GB
>KFA2 GeForce GTX 1060 EX OC

Hi guys.
My wife has to buy a Wacom Cintiq 22HD for work, and the specs say that the thing only has a DVI connector. I need to get a new video card since I will need 2 DVI and 1 HDMI out (cintiq, monitor and tv) and my current GTX 550TI is not enough.
What's the most budget card I can get with at least 2 DVI and 1 HDMI?
I was looking at pic related Gigabyte 750TI which is like 120€ in my country.

>WD Blue 1TB 7200rpm SATA
WD is worse than Seagate in almost every respect (Think AMD cpus if they had the Intel price premium)
>Alpenföhn Atlas - 200W TDP
wat
>EVGA 500W 80 Plus Power Supply
EVGA is NOT seasonic based so its housefire tier
>Dynamode Compact Bluetooth™ USB adapter (BT-USB-M2)
ok
>Antec P280 Super Midi Tower Case - Gun Metal Black
decent
>Asus Z170-K Intel Z170 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard
asus is low quality shit trying to sell itself as premium, just get gigabyte or asrock or just anything but asus
>Crucial 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 PC4-17000C16 2133MHz Quad Channel Kit
decenct
>Intel Core i5-6600K 3.9GHz
decent
>Kingston HyperX Fury 240GB
Samsung is better
>KFA2 GeForce GTX 1060 EX OC
KFA2 is shit tier and the 480/470 is better

>getting a 750 ti in 2016
The RX 460 is the same price but better in every single way

The fury x is decent for that price but if you care about efficiency or think that fury x/980 ti/1070 class preformance is not enough then wait for vega

total war warhammer is very optimized thanks to DX12 and async

>tfw 7000 units on screen at once running 60fps 1440p maxed out (except for 2X AA as opposed to something like 8X)

Is it really worth getting a Z170 with higher frequency RAM rather than a B-150 with 2133?

I am not an overclocker but I do want my build to be futureproof.

White Label "enterprise grade" 7200rpm vs HGST 5700rpm
Same $/tb price
Will have an ssd booting for OS but this drive will be running most games.

Z170 motherboards blending into one

i5-6500 (or get the 6600K?)
RX 480 8GB
8GB RAM

I have DT 770 80ohms so perhaps decent audio plays into this.

Budget >£140

>RX 460
Nope, lowest price is 159€ and has 1 HDMI, 1 DVI and 1 DP
Clearly you haven't read my post

Do H170 then? Unless you're sticking with b150 for price reasons

I could've gone with just an i3, but I'm assuming I'd eventually play games that use all the cores.
pcpartpicker.com/list/2G9YgL
4570 from ebay: ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i5-4570-3-2GHz-Quad-Core-SR14E-CM8064601464707-Processor-/262579666178

80+ bronze or better is a good start. See if anyone has done a detailed review of one you're thinking about buying, jonnyguru is a good place to start.

>white label
Eww no

The 750 ti isn't worth it these days unless you're stubbornly refusingg to replace the power supply in your prebuilt.

...

I am really confused. When I read the spec lists of the H170 mobo - it says only 2133 is supported.

When I check out the Z170, it says that all the other frequencies are supported (2400, 2666, etc.), but it has an (O.C.) next to the frequency. Basically I'm asking if I need to overclock anything if I buy higher frequency RAM with a Z170.

You need to OC the ram.

I know nothing about OCing. Do you do that in the BIOS?

Thanks dude.

Different user, but I'm pretty sure for z170 you may have to OC ram in the bios for it to be over 2133, or at least a firmware update for your bios, or it may even recognize it as soon as you pop it in

Whereas with H170 i believe the max is 2133 for ram regardless of what you do, due to how the chipset is designed.

Regardless, you can always youtube shit, and among the "top tech" youtubers, I find Paul's hardware to be the least shill and pretty unbiased when it comes to amd vs intel vs nvidia.

Personally I had a lot of fun learning about ocing all my shit and doing it. Not that there's anything wrong with wanting to just plug shit in and leave it there till you need to replace it, different strokes

INTEL CORE I5 3570 3.4GHZ/6MB

KINGSTON 8GB DDR3

SEAGATE 1TB BARRACUDA INT SATA3 HDD

MSI R9-270X TWIN FROZR GAMING OC 2GB

MSI B75MA-P45 INTEL B75 LGA1155 MAINBOARD

COOLERMASTER 725W EXTREMEPOWER 2 ATX POWER SUPPLY RS-725-PCAR

COOLERMASTER 690 III ATX TOWER CHASSIS CMS-693-KWN1

for $371

y/n?

If it already has wandows installed that's bretty good

Should run plenty of modern games at 60 fps @ 1080 w/ low-medium settings, and run most esport games outside of heroes of the storm at ultra settings

>that psu

I wouldn't try and actually get that thing to deliver 700w.

Yeah I suppose I'm just wondering if I get a z170 and 2666 RAM, it will be as simple as plug and play. Perhaps others can chime in.

go for it. it'll probably beat any console in terms of performance