/pcbg/ - PC Building General

"When all fails, just j-j-jam it in!"-Edition

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA.
If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Gaming builds based on purpose or display resolution / Hz
>To activate the Description, select build from sidebar then click on the title over the parts list
>Description contains notes, other options, and build skeleton for easy customization / cost savings
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
>Significantly outdated "Good" and "Very Good" tiers
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL (embed) (embed) (embed)

>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC


If you see any other build advice or part list threads, direct them here with old thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/GB2hjc
pcpartpicker.com/product/9q4NnQ/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1
pcpartpicker.com/list/HwNKhq
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/MZ4rcc
newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822235013
newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149633&cm_re=toshiba_3tb-_-22-149-633-_-Product
newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149408&cm_re=toshiba_3tb-_-22-149-408-_-Product
pcpartpicker.com/product/fpCwrH/toshiba-internal-hard-drive-dt01aca200
pcpartpicker.com/product/Fz2kcf/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd1003fzex
pcpartpicker.com/list/PNT2r7
pcpartpicker.com/product/gGcMnQ/asus-motherboard-h170mplus
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/dYJYWX
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/hhFzZ8
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Already reposting from old thread

Sorry about the probably ever so often asked question in advance.
I want to buy a GTX1070 but at first glance its a huge fucking struggle deciding on which one. With my previous cards the differences were more straight forward and bigger but now im looking at 37(!) possible versions, scratch founders and EVGA and theres still a fuckton left. How would i ever go about deciding which one i want? People used to say they are all kind of similar and to just pick one but now that i know how many there are and the RRP ranging from 380-650€ in benchmark lists but in reality the amazon prices are waay off (generally off, not as in more expensive) i just dont know. So besides warranty and unrelatable benchmarks i just dont know what to look at besides design. What am i looking for?

So I'm using a low profile cooler which sucks air directly down onto the motherboard. There's a fan mount right above this which could fit a 120mm fan, with 10mm between the case fan and the CPU fan.

Is it a good idea to have two fans so close?

Scratch all those shitty brands like Manli, Inno3D and KFA2, also those with reference coolers.
Gigabyte G1, the "normal" Palits, Gainwards, and also everything without a proper backplate like ASUS Dual, MSI Armor etc is shit as well.

Ideally, you want a card that is factory overclocked to 1800+ Mhz, unless you want to overclock shit yourself (which is rather easy).

Also don't buy Zotac, warranty might be good, but they eat too many watts.

>CPU: Intel Core i7-6850K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor
>CPU cooler: EK Custom loop
>Motherboard: MSI X99A GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
>Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
>Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Video Card: MSI GTX 1080 SEA HAWK EK X
>Case: Corsair 780T ATX Full Tower Case
>Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1000W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
>Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit
>Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 27.0" 144Hz Monitor

Still have to buy the video card, the custom loop, and the monitor.

What do you guys think?

1000W is overkill

You should do fine with a good 750W PSU and still have tons to spare

Sorry, forgot to mention, I'll be buying another 1080 for SLI

>all this overkill shit
>512gb SSD

For what?

I never need more than 512gb. Any large files go on my passport.

but can it run crysis??

Gaymen

True hardcore gamer/10

Bet your world elite on CS:GO and CoD

I play Overwatch

>play overwatch
>only has one 1080
>framerate won't improve with a second 1080 by much

At least get a third one, you pleb.

Nvidia only does 2way SLI, now

then get a new Titan X

can't let those sweet frames escape you!

Just get a Zotac AMP! or Palit Jetstream, both are great cards with good cooling and performance.
If you like to waste money you can also buy an ASUS STRIX.
If you're cold in winter you can get an EVGA to keep you warm. :^)

pcpartpicker.com/list/GB2hjc
I'm getting a 980 Ti from a friend, is this a good build to put it in?

Your mobo is an overpriced meme, otherwise it's ok.

Get this PSU instead. 550W may not be enough for that GPU.

pcpartpicker.com/product/9q4NnQ/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1

pcpartpicker.com/list/HwNKhq
Is this better? Thanks for the help.

>building computer
>have Windows 7 ISO on external hard drive
>have no disc drive

Will I be able to run the ISO from the mobo without another program?

Yeah that's better. If you're going with mATX you could get a smaller case, too.

How about a bootable image on an USB drive? don't tell me you don't have a fucking USB stick flying around somewhere..

Use Rufus, if you have secure boot and all that jazz, you may need to pick GPT instead of MBR in Rufus.

Last case scenario, just disable all the UEFI shit.

Guess I'll use Rufus then. I should mention I'll be installing it to my SSD. What's the difference between GPT and MBR?

If you have secure boot/UEFI enabled, you need to use GPT or it won't install/boot. It should generally boot faster than MBR/legacy.

Thanks for the helpful and reasoble answer

thanks m80s

What sales on parts can I expect on Black Friday/ Cyber Monday?

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/MZ4rcc

Rate this budget pc I'm building for my sister.

I already have a spare 4gb ram stick, 1tb hdd and r7 370 graphics card that will be part of the build.

>overclocked to 1800+ Mhz
>1070 factory OC
kek

>Also don't buy Zotac, warranty might be good, but they eat too many watts.
That's stupid. Zotac 1070 AMP! takes 220W, that's just 5W more than the EVGA FTW.... wow, what a difference.

>good deals
>Meme Friday and Memeier Monday
You missed all of the good sales back in early October, late August, and mid June

>Zotac takes to much power
Literally what. Maybe the AMP! Extreme, but that's because it has a high core clock and three fans. Zotac probably has the best cooling system out of all the GPU partners.

not the guy you are replying too but explain further

Yeah but what sales can I expect though

Only if you're an Americuck. Else Palit / Gainward is best

Looks half decent for an absolute poorfag build. Check for RAM compatibility, i had some problems with an old system, although the RAM should have been compatible.
Trash that Corsair PSU for either an EVGA 500B or XFX TS 430 depending on how much you need/want, just don't buy a low end Corsair PSU.

All of the good sales are when retailers need to clear their inventory of last generation or outdated (usually the same products but with older firmware or manufacturing date) stuff. They have one in February (I think those are the stuff that failed to clear out after Christmas), April (literal spring cleaning), June (new GPUs are usually launched around then), August (new CPUs are usually launched then if not in June), and October (mostly storage drives). Black Friday used to be one of those dates for large retailers, but once it became mainstream, retailers started stocking up exclusively for those dates to match the higher traffic on their stores/website. That means that they'll put the regular 20% sticker on stuff that has been 20% on a slow business week and 40% when they needed to clear out the inventory.

For example, I bought four 2TB WD Blacks for $60 each in October of last year. This October, you could have bought a 1TB WD Black drive (the old one, but still) for $49.99 each.

>Zotac is not good/available outside US
???

Zotac AMP! Powertarget: 230W
EVGA FTW Powertarget: 215W
Palit Gamerock Powertarget: 170W

Zotac and EVGA are the best americucks can get. Also electricity is cheaper in your land, so go for it.

welp look like my drive is failing since im getting some I/O errors in qbit.

Is that shit good? newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822235013

seagate and WD are both shit

buy Toshiba

>and also everything without a proper backplate
Where do you need the backplate really? It doesn't help that much with cooling and the cards themselves are quite sturdy.

>5400rpm

If by good you mean dog slow, yeah.

m8 i'm not putting $300 on a 2tb drive.

for transportation and handling. Also you can clean dust off of the backplate better than having to wipe the back of a PCB

newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149633&cm_re=toshiba_3tb-_-22-149-633-_-Product
newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149408&cm_re=toshiba_3tb-_-22-149-408-_-Product

pcpartpicker.com/product/fpCwrH/toshiba-internal-hard-drive-dt01aca200

Thanks

Second one is in my price range but damn 36% one egg rating.

3TB drives have a high failure rate, not just Toshiba, avoid them.

tfw I realized I just paid the same for a 1 TB WD HD

I have it and it works fine.

its my main games storage disk

You done goofed.

lel

pcpartpicker.com/product/Fz2kcf/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd1003fzex

Officially the Zotac AMP! Extreme (not even normal AMP...) takes 250W, that's 45W too much according to your source.
Zotac has very good warranty and support, good cooling and performance, why wouldn't you buy it?
The Asus Strix is great, but i don't trust their support in case something happens.

welp not sure if i take the 2tb or the 3 seeing the failure rate.

Thinking of upgrading to a 1070, looking for suggestions on manufacturers. Also, is there anything else I should upgrade? I figure my processor should be adequate for a while longer

I got bored, and ended up here, do people really build their PC in the order listed on the wiki? I always went:


>Unpack case
>install standoffs if not there
>install case fans and radiator
>install mobo
>install cpu
>change mobo backplate
>attach cooler to mobo/cpu
>install ram
>place HDD, SSD, Optical Drive in proper bays
>place PSU in case
>power everything, some cable management, plug SATA cables in where necessary
>install and power graphics card
>finish cable management, install OS, install drivers, done.

pcpartpicker.com/list/PNT2r7

Going to be used mainly for 1080p gaming medium to high settings and emulation with Dolphin and PCSX2.

Advice or opinions are appreciated.

Also is this psu good?

that pastebin is surprisingly scarce

Go WD black, it's worth the extra money, trust me. Also, don't get anything with "caviar" in it, that was the naming they used for their older drives, and who wants to buy an old drive when new ones are the same price?

Consider a 6600 or 6500k, but if you don't want one then that's fine.

Go 1060/1050ti instead of RX 470.

don't skimp on the mobo

pcpartpicker.com/product/gGcMnQ/asus-motherboard-h170mplus

Adding on to my other post, a quick glance at reviews for your PSU show lifespan issues, with people complaining about it dying anywhere from a few months to 2 years. I don't know if you wanna deal with that, but I sure wouldn't buy that PSU.

Last thing, your mobo is surprisingly cheap, I don't know much about it so I can't comment, but you should check out the reviews and make sure it's good, a mobo is the worst thing to cheap out on.

CPU: I5-6600k
CPU Cooler: NH-U14S
Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro Gaming
RAM: HypyerX Fury Black 2x8GB
GPU: GTX 1070
HDD: Seagate 2TB
SSD: Samsung 250GB
PSU: EVGA SuperNova P2 750W Plat
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro

This is the overkill I picked, I know I should downgrade but dont know where

>1070
>150W TDP

Get a 650W PSU, and I think it would still be overkill.

Plat is overkill, gold should be enough 99% pf the time and 750 is way too much, you won't SLI, will you?
Get the EVGA G2 550W and Corsair LPX 3000.
If you want a smaller case take a lool at the Define S.

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/dYJYWX
How's this for a £550 budget build?

If we assume the extreme scenario here's the breakdown.

>CPU 100w
>CPU cooler: 5w
>GPU 200w
>RAM 20w
>HDD 10w
>SSD 5w

Total: 340Watt.

Not sure why you'd even need 650w let alone 750w.

I want to learn how to build PC shit but i'm ignorant about the use of each part.
Which part should i pick first?

I have an Intel i7-4790K which has driver support in Linux (open source not binary blob) and I'm trying to figure out what GPU to get, I do not want anything to do with Nvidia, you need proprietary shit drivers just to get any decent performance, so I'm thinking an Intel CPU and an AMD GPU for my GNU desktop system, what GPU should I get? My main goal is
>full compatibility with Wayland
>no proprietary drivers
>full compatibility with Linux-Libre
I do not plan on doing that much gaming, maybe light gaming but not much. I'm avoiding X.Org as it's garbage.

Most of those one-stars were from non-verified owners, so that tells you a lot. The P300 is better because they changed the actuator and hub motor.

Why would I want 2x 8GB DDR4 for this build?

Bruh, there's thousands of videos online explaining how each part of a PC works.

so my 1155 mobo is on the fritz, is there any reason not to go with skylake

Dual channel > single channel, but it's not really a noticeable gain.

If Zen turns out to be actually good.

Or if you're running a 4770K and you're playing ARMA 3.

I've got a 4x4 16GB kit for the build, it's about 3 posts back.

is there any difference between AMD and Intel or is just another retarded console wars?

Which SSDs are recommended at the time?
Is is still just Samsung?

i don't play anything demanding really, they just don't make mobos for my 2500k anymore so it looks like i have to upgrade

i could do it cheaper by going last gen but not really sure

Intel i5 6600K @ 3,4ghz
MSI Gaming R9 380 2GB
8 GB DDR4 RAM
MSI PC Mate B150 ATX
Kingston UV400 240GB SSD
Seagate 1,5TB HDD
Thermaltake Contact 21 Cooler
Cooler Master M500 500W
Cooler Master Elite 430 Case

Got discount on the cpu.

Crucial MX

>4*4
Why? You can only quad channel x99.

how did i do so far /pcbg/?
my ram is only a single 8GB stick of corsair vengeance, not sure why speccy shows 16GB, but i plan on picking up another stick in a week.

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/hhFzZ8
Slightly over budget, but it's worth the better mobo and PSU.

Everything is build around CPU/mobo, make up your mind and then build everything around it.

There is. AMD uses more power than Intel and is generally less efficient and has worse temps, but is also cheaper.
AMD is at the moment only worth to consider if you're on a tight budget and need the extra cores.
Otherwise everything from i3 to i7 beats AMD respectively, that might change with Zen though.

AMD is still using a retarded-as-fuck CMT architecture that has each core splitting integer clusters and sharing everything else for their own version of hyperthreading (a bare metal hyperthreading, versus a virtual one done by splitting core resources as per Intel's SMT). Basically, most of the work being done within each integer cluster has to wait for the other integer cluster in the same core to finish its work, rather than splitting the workload of each core using virtualized threads so that it can share resources of the entire core simultaneously on demand. This was part of the reason why AMD has been lambasted for poor single core performance, because there were inherent pipeline bottlenecks early on in each "core's" workload due to the shared physical resources.

Excavator is the last generation of this pants-on-head retarded consumer architecture and will make way for Zen, which uses SMT like Intel. Intel is, and always have been, superior in every way to AMD.

Why does AMD suck so much when it comes to rendering shit? REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE I DONT WANT TO SPEND 450€ on a card just because it will help me render shit in daz3d faster

Yeah a 550W would be more than fine.

>Intel is, and always have been, superior in every way to AMD.
>he doesn't remember Athlon64
>he doesn't remember the multiple billion dollar lawsuits Intel has faced because they were getting blown the fuck out by AMD performance wise and thus used every dirty trick in the book to deprive AMD of marketshare

Kill yourself intelshill.

Ah, I see.

I didn't know about that, I understand why he wanted me to go x2 8GB

Boost clocks are useless with you boost 3.0. My gigabyte g1 1070 hits 1925 stock. Steam buddy has a Msi gaming one that hits 1910. They all run fairly cool and have little room to oc past GPU boost. Recommend buying based on warranty, sound, and looks.

>Intel is, and always have been, superior in every way to AMD.
Hello newfag.

Prove me wrong. Athlon64 was the only fluke in their entire timeline. AMD started out in life as a spinoff of Intel's fabrication., remember.

Any good (read cheap) builds for running Witcher 3 on medium/medium-high?

Athlon 5350
GT 710

470 emulates better nvidia shill

I haven't built a PC since 2004 so I don't know where the fuck to even start but I know what I want at least.

My main needs:
Developer machine so about 16-32GB RAM
Small (ITX)
Silent/low heat/passive cooling so CPU should reflect that, don't need a crazy-fast i7
Okayish GPU (something that can run Vulkan and have decent official drivers for Linux so probably a budget Nvidia, don't care about vidya too much)
Possibly want to use as a low-traffic server at some point so ECC RAM(?)
Simple SSD, probably a Samsung 850 512GB


Roughly what price would I be looking at? And is such a system viable?