/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA.
If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/F9diF2hA

>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

>Consider a G4560 instead of i3; similar performance, up to 50% cost reduction.
>Consider using an i5 6500/7500 in any RX470/480 or GTX 1060 tier build.
>Consider stock fan+heatsink for any locked CPU build without a Z mobo.
>Consider a H110/B150 (UEFI needs update before installing a Kaby Lake CPU) or B250 mobo for any Pentium or i3 build.
>Add a 240GB SSD to the "Very Good" tier build or even budget builds instead of a HDD.
>The only worthwhile gfx cards are the GTX1050Ti, RX470, RX480, GTX1060 6GB.

If you see any other build advice or part list threads, direct them here with Old thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/TRD4wV
pcpartpicker.com/list/vgWZjc
pcpartpicker.com/list/BpjXd6
staticice.com.au/cgi-bin/search.cgi?q=AOC g2460Pg&spos=6
pcpartpicker.com/list/PCD8yf
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Just replaced my thermal paste after 8 years. I even took the cooler off once a couple of years ago and thought nothing of it. How bad was it? Temperature wise it was idling at 60 and now it's idling around 40.

What were the load temperatures? That's really hot for idle. Even 40 isn't very good honestly

What's the best monitor for an i7+1070 combo?

As far as I remember I couldn't get it past ~60% load without getting into the high 90s. I haven't stressed it since I worked on it this morning so I don't know how much it's improved there.

>only use PC for web browsing, ms office, PES 6 and emulators
>want to build a low-consumption gpu-less mini-itx w/ Ryzen APU
>Ryzen APUs will take around 6 months to be released
>have already decided on a case, which I can buy now
>having the case with nothing in it seems wrong
>so thought of buying pic related with a lightweight linux distro and make do until then
>currently using an ASUS Chromebox with windows 10 as my only PC
>it performs just a little worse than this potential build but it's even smaller and I'm using 10Gb of ram and a sata m2 ssd
>in this new build I'd only have 4gb of ram and would be using an old 320gb HDD I have laying around

should I?
The power brick, PicoPSU and case would be reused for the Ryzen build, but I would effectively be throwing almost 100€ away. I mean, I could try and sell the mobo+ram when Ryzen comes out but I don't think I'd be able to sell it for over 50€, if that

I don't NEED to buy this, but I want to. Convince me not to

>look at pic
>spanish

fuck off

There's no point, you'd be wasting money by not waiting.

>are you happy now

>are you happy now
i-it's valentine's day

The motherboard I just bought from newegg has a few bent pins and I don't think I can fix them myself (one of them seems to be completely flat).
I've heard they decline RMAs if they see bent pins.

Is this true? Should I try anyway?

You don't have a magnifying glass and a small pin?

Anything less than 1440 is wasting it unless you just really want 300 fps

I don't, but I could get some if I couldn't RMA it.

what was the mobo if you dont mind me asking

MSI Z270-A PRO

I was gunna get an msi mobo as well, I hope it was just some asshole kicking the box and not the packaging

Guys I plan on building a new PC after some 8 years. I didn't know much about computers then and I do not know that much now either so please give me some advice.

Pic related is my current PC.

And this is the way I am using it now and how I plan on using my new PC:

I think I play mainly older and not that graphic intensive games such as Smite, League, DotA, Don't Starve etc but I would like to run them perfectly and also run at least the current stuff at solid 60fps without compromising graphics settings too much. I only plan on gaming at 1920x1080 for now and no more.

The thing is, I also plan on streaming said games. And I also like let's call it multitasking a lot. I like playing games, browsing the net, streaming/being on a skype call, watching videos all at the same time.

And it is also very important for me that I will be able to use Windows 7 for general use. Can I dual boot Windows 7 + Windows 10?

Because of these reasons I am thinking either one of the 6/12 or 8/16 Ryzens + RX 480 8GB.

Thoughts? Will it be enough for the way I plan on using my PC?

Hey, I'm looking for an SSD, just to replace the HDD in a laptop, guess this thread is a good place to ask.

Did some looking around, the Patriot Blast 240GB for less than 70EUR seems the best of options - it's MLC, has 2M MTBF, and a nice benchmark on harddrivebenchmark.net, and is a good bit cheaper than anything comparable.
A perfectly good choice, right?

I wouldn't dump anything into ryzen until they've been out a while and you see more real world results

But generally speaking, if I like to multitask like I described + stream, more cores will be very helpful right?

Vegaaaaaaaa Whennnnnn

My laptop from 2010 isn't cutting it anymore. This will be used for games (civ, ksp, old games, not cod but maybe titanfall or overwatch), general computing shit, and as I'll soon be a phd student, science (which includes R programming, 3D graphics, general science shit).
Should I skip out on the video card for now? I don't think I'll have too much time to play games once I start but I'm also thinking the 1060 might not work for that resolution.

This minus cost?
pcpartpicker.com/list/TRD4wV
Problem: Need decent OS.

>Building

There's no such thing as a student of phd

Is the Zotac AMP! 1070 the best deal currently?

Possibly not better than an i7.

Guys is this harmful in any way? I have push pull on my 212 evo and my push fan is slightly slower than my pull. (As seen in pic related, push is cpu_fan and pull is cpu_OPT). I can't seem to be able to change the speed of the faster one. Can that mess up my push fan in any way?

Anyone else addicted to watching full build log videos?

It'll break it
Change it before it fries your PC

I usually watch BItWit or TechSource. Is there anyone else that isn't Jayztwoshills or LinusCuckTips that's good?

Are you being sarcastic tho? I know it's not the smartest of questions but I was just worried because there is a difference in air pressure or whatever.

A 1060 won't hold 60 fps at that resolution. Also you probably want a better cooler, try the h7. 3000mhz ram would be nice too.

It'll be fine. If you want them at the same speed and can't change it just get a fan splitter.

Get a different m2 drive, either a 950 or 960 pro, or a 2.5" SATA drive

if you want to save money, there's nothing wrong with the MX300. it's like comparing a 1070 vs a 1080. One might have a performance boost, but if you're not going to make use of it then you might as well save the cash.

it won't break it. these aren't huge turbines, they're little plastic fans.

but if you're worried about it then connect both to a fan splitter and connect the splitter to your cpu_fan connection. that way you're guaranteed to get even voltage to both.

No it's like comparing a cheap SATA SSD to a real NVME drive that is 5-6x as fast instead of 1x as fast as SATA for $30 more.
Getting a SATA M2 is literally retarded, there are no advantages over a generic SATA SSD until you get into samsungs NVME lineup, Samsung really has no match in NVME drive speed at the moment.
If you aren't worried about speed, get the 2.5" SATA instead of the overpriced M2 SATA that will give you no advantages, use up your m2 slot (which you could've filled with an NVME drive) and cost more.
You're not comparing good performance to better performance, you bought a M2 SATA SSD that performs the exact same as any 2.5" SATA SSD
Getting an M2 that isn't NVME is pretty much admitting you have no idea what you're doing and are just following the crowd (because they all have M2's right? All you need is an M2 right?)

Get the 2.5" MX300 you dip.
This isn't a brand thing, it's SATA vs NVME, and what you picked out is just SATA

is that a motherboard from a Dell XPS ? it look a lot like mine.

AMD has more cores but they've always been inferior to Intel's.

Intel's hyperthreading adds 'logical cores', but they usually test at about 70% of the power of a true core (granted there's a lot more to it than that), which has still pushed Intel's i7 over the 8-core AMDs through history.

So Intel has been the go-to choice for complex CPU intensive work like streaming and rendering and the such. But AMDs 8 true cores are better for stuff like folding@home or bitcoin mining where you need to do a lot of simple computations as fast as possible.

Think of it as a homeless guy with a calculator vs a Yale professor with a full schedule. The poor guy might not be as knowledgeable but he's got more time to work on stuff, while the Yale professor might be more capable but he's better suited for complex work.

At least this is what my 2-3 months researching between Intel and AMD has taught me.

>no advantage

There's a huge advantage in a mini ITX case where you don't have room for much airflow. M.2 will always be superior.

Or they're all just generic x86 compute cores and brands don't matter as much as the actual CPU design
a dangerous opinion

then why does intel always test better than amd

You have room for a 2.5" drive.
I'll bet my entire computer that you do.
And I'll also bet my entire computer that it won't affect your temperatures whatsoever. And an M2 on an ITX motherboard gets excessively hot 90% of the time, ESPECIALLY if the slot is mounted on the backside

>he doesn't know about Ryzen

M2s get really hot on mITX motherboards, there's just not enough room.
2.5" drives are well seperated from the PC heat output and have their own giant heatsink casing. Also you gain nothing from an M2 over SATA unless you're using NVME

I'm not even the guy that posted the build.

I've got a mid-tower and I'm about to install an MX300 because it removed cable clutter but it still had all the same speed as an SSD. So now I can installed two HDDs in my free bays and keep a ton of airflow for an OC build.

Do you remember when AMD was kicking Intels ass and Intel had to buy x86-64 partially from AMD?
I'm just trying to say brand loyalty is fucking retarded

No you didn't.
Nobody in /pcbg/ wouldve allowed you to buy a SATA M2 drive
Stop samefagging, you're painfully obvious.

Samefag
Buy the 2.5" SATA MX300 on sale or you're actually retarded

This is my build

pcpartpicker.com/list/vgWZjc

I'd post speccy but I'm waiting on a new CPU cooler

>ATX
Where are your two hard drives that 8 SATA ports wasn't enough for?
How horrible is your airflow that a 2.5" SSD taped to the case impacts it?
You bought a modular case, shouldn't you be at least coherent enough to manage your cables? Especially since those extra hard drives have the same cables as well?

fully modular bra

uploading shitty pictures now.

you can remove the 5.25 bays and the HDD bays to improve airflow from the front. I don't like AIO because I get better temps from air, so I removed as much as I could and kept the two bays in the basement for HDD.

It might not be everyone's cup of tea, but my GPU and CPU never go above 65*.

>fully modular
>you can take the dust filters off

Is the ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1070 AMP! Extreme still the 1070 to get or is the new EVGA cards with icx cooling the better choice? i'll have enough to buy one when I get paid on Thursday.

You can adjust just about everything actually

It's about as modular as any other case.

I'm the person who posted the build and am neither of these guys arguing.

Chiefly I was doing it to avoid more cables but I'm sure one cable to the SSD isn't going to cause any issues. Those samsungs are nearly twice the price and I'm already very happy with SSD speeds so I'll just switch it to a 2.5" drive since there's mounts for those.

What I intended to do is eventually have two 512gb ssd's in RAID0 which would backup to that 1TB drive.

Is the seagate 1tb at Newegg for $40.69 worth it?

That said how are the other Samsung's? If I'm going to cut the video card then I might as well get a better m2 drive.

...

Here's a good SATA SSD on the right and a non-Samsung NVME drive on the left
The 600p really underwhelmed me, I mean it is fast, but for $30 more I could've bought a 1TB SATA SSD

And for humor, heres a WD Black HDD

The 600p is more of a low-end NVMe drive

I never said it was high end, just that it's no Samsung
Most of the non-Samsung NVME drives test in a similar way, either reads or sequential performance is amazing but the rest is SATA-tier
The 950 and 960 pro are really in a class of their own

Chances are it might run into stock issues. With reviews coming out within a day or two of release, you will then know where the expectation is.

Key thing to look for is how much it will overclock and how the the CPU compares clock/clock with intel variants.

Chances are if its within 10% of Intel shit(given same clock speed), AMD wins out because the overall value is much better. If AMD can overclock past 4.5Ghz, then they will be the true king of CPU this generation and maybe next.

Okay previous comment about sata m.2 retracted. That's pretty impressive.

Too bad I can't notice it very often, only measure it.
But the thing was that Samsung drives reign supreme for NVME speed right now, I believe he posted a 960 pro here The real question is does that speed even matter to you? Even SATA SSDs feel plenty fast

>The real question is does that speed even matter to you? Even SATA SSDs feel plenty fast
This is my issue. The SATA SSD I put in my laptop in place of it's old spinning one seems blazing fast to me, and I think it's only 3Gb/s anyway. Probably a SATA M2 drive would feel fast enough for me but I really just want to buy everything once, and only replace it if it breaks. I'd be surprised if a 7700k, 1070 (will buy one eventually), and good NVMe SSD become slow any time soon.

How hot do m.2 drives get? Thinking about getting one after i upgrade my gpu.

bump

I have a budget of up to $3k and just want to play older story-heavy games and Titanfall 2 multiplayer with buttery smooth FPS at1080p on my ASUS 144hz monitor.

What's minimum price start at?

No desire for grass physics or any other placebo effects.

It depends on what you're doing with it. My 950 PROs would get toasty to the touch after recording 2160p videos from a capture card, but not so hot booting two virtual machines off of it.

>Budget of $3k
>only going to be playing old games

Sup Forums everyone

I'm 31 and winter is coming.

But Titanfall mah jam.

Was thinking of using it as a boot drive.

Stick with SATA drives. The difference in loading and booting is literally half a second unless you install a fuck-ton of programs on it.

Depends on which one and how hard you use it
A Samsung 950 pro for example can boil water if you're writing nonstop for half an hour

Some motherboards have a delay when booting from NVME, think it's a boot order issues

>Stick with SATA drives.
Stick with HDDs. The difference in loading and booting is literally half a second unless you install a fuck-ton of programs on it.

I posted some speed tests, the step from HDD to SATA SSD is 5-100x better
The step from SATA SSD to 960 pro is roughly 2-5x better

AUS?

If I get a 1440p monitor should I get it 144hz?

My concern is not many games being able to reach that framerate to begin with. I was thinking something like 1440p@75?Hz

What kind of games do you play?

With a 1070 at 1440p youll get 60fps in some games and 144fps in other, it'll give you a locked 60fps if you want it to but I think it's worth getting into the high Hz (but you are right, 144fps is not possible for every game, so I recommend gsync as well)
75hz locked 1440p would be doable, Witcher 3 is the only game I could imagine getting troubles reaching that on max settings
If you have the money though, 1440p high-Hz gsync would be the best match for a 1070 (or 1080 even) that still allows you to flex your GPU muscle imo

I very rarely play online because Aussie internet is trash. When I do play online it's co-op like an MMO or Killing Floor.

I mostly play single player stuff, so I won't need something with 1ms response time I guess, but I'd like to experience Gsync.

Is this worth the money?

I got the PG278Q (I assume the "r" stands for re-release) and I love it
Goes great with my 1070

Btw I paid $500 for a refurbished one, I much better deal that way and I'm sure it had less than one day of use before some Sup Forums citizen's mom found out and made him return it

You sure a 1070 is enough for 165hz at 1440p? I thought 1070 was the 1080p killer.

Really depends what you prefer.

1080p@144hz or 1440p@60Hz

Honestly, I don't think 144hz is even worth it then desu,

pcpartpicker.com/list/BpjXd6

Ordering the first of the parts tomorrow, how does this look?

>Aussie

If you want Gsync as an Aussie you'll have to go 1080p/144hz if you don't want to break the bank.

Something like: staticice.com.au/cgi-bin/search.cgi?q=AOC g2460Pg&spos=6

Hey Sup Forums I just bought a g4560. They said it comes with thermal paste on the stock cooler?

Is this the thermal paste?

Get a B250 mobo, H270 is really only for SLI.
Get 2400 RAM and a Toshiba P300 instead the memegate.
RX480 is better than the 1060, you should swap the GPU.
PSU is great but not really a must have, you could get a cheaper one.
And get a fucking 24" Monitor, 22" is shit.

It is

pcpartpicker.com/list/PCD8yf

I'm new to overclocking and i'm not sure how OC RAM works.

Thanks mate