/pcbg/ - PC Building General

/pcbg/ - PC Building General-- Delete Pajeet edition

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

State the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA.
If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.
List games or software you use if applicable and if you mostly stick to those.
Use common sense and put some effort into your queries.
GOOGLE IT FIRST

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice (which is pretty outdated/shit), Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/F9diF2hA

>Semi-outdated information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

>G4560 remains the best if your budget is only around $500.
>The Ryzen 1700 is the only available Ryzen chip worth purchasing for any reason.
>If you're building a PC with an i5, wait for Ryzen 5 to compare. Intel will probably edge Ryzen out in gaming.
>i3 are no longer worth getting.
>Locked i5s are a much better value than unlocked i5s and perform similarly, especially in games.
>Consider only getting an SSD for what you planned to spend on an SSD+HDD. Add a HDD later once needed.
>The only worthwhile gfx cards are the (1050ti outside of US), RX470 4GB, RX480 4/8GB, (1060 outside of USA), 1070, 1080, 1080Ti.
>The cheapest way to build a PC is buying one part at a time as you see flash sales, not buying all parts at once. An entire build worth of good components will rarely be on sale all on the same day.
>Don't feel bound to one specific brand/model of a component. Parametric filters on pcpartpicker can help with this, if your monkey brain can figure out how to use them.

If you see any other build advice or part list threads, direct them here with and report.

Other urls found in this thread:

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/bL82f8
amazon.co.uk/dp/B0119SJ3L8/?tag=pcp0f-21
pcpartpicker.com/list/rZtFyf
pcpartpicker.com/list/rZtFyf/by_merchant/
pcpartpicker.com/list/JTvtqk
forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/28669-Microsoft-Toolkit-Official-KMS-Solution-for-Microsoft-Products
pcpartpicker.com/list/FnnVRG
pcpartpicker.com/list/FnnVRG/by_merchant/
pcpartpicker.com/list/PHBRhq
de.pcpartpicker.com/list/VNTgNN
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

what graphics card should i buy to crack the most tripcodes per dollar spent

Friends 7 year old """gaming""" laptop is finally on its last legs so instead of helping him fix it now I get to help him build a replacement. So far the info I have is
>Mainly would be used for shit like Studio One and light gaming such as Enter The Gungeon
>$700ish budget
>USAUSAUSAUSAUSA
Was Ryzen able to live up to the hype?

in us, rx 480 for 1080p

PC replaceemnt or laptop replacement? Hard not to suggest an i5-7500 over ryzen, but we'll see. Tell him to wait til april 11 for the release just to be sure. If he's gaming I'd find either a good deal second hand or just get a $120 RX 470.

PC, my bad for not putting that in there. Whats out on the 11th?

ryzen 5

Where can I find the Microsoft Toolkit these days?

Unrelated, where can I find an ISO for Office 2016?

i have both but i charge for em

Will weakly magnetic screwdrivers fuck up my build?

no chance

Still running a Q6600 build here so it's fair to say I've not built a PC in a long time. So... Can I get a quick sanity check on this parts list? Tight budget mATX build for 1440p:

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/bL82f8

I know I could get by on the stock cooler but I'd really rather not. Already got a 2TB mechanical drive to go in there. Went for the M.2 for the sake of a nice clean build.

mydigitallife forum.

Nope. Plus it'll save you headaches when you inevitably drop a screw somewhere hard to reach.

>uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/bL82f8
You will massively regret that CPU cooler.

Get this one instead

amazon.co.uk/dp/B0119SJ3L8/?tag=pcp0f-21

Or just use stock like a normal person.

I'd see if you could find a similarly priced 2 fan 1070 but thatll do, reddit.com/r/buildapcsalesuk has good ones.

Not a fan of that PSU, I'd go up or down in price, an m12ii 520 over that desu. Or just get the G2 and use it for 2 decades. But yours will probably work.

good build

I looked at MyDigitalLife, but nearly every post is:
>You need to login to view this posts content.

wanna pay me 30 bucks for it?

Already have the 1080 and just ordered the 7700k last night.

Can you fuck off Sanjay?

dont listen to this retard.

hyper 212 is really good.

just google some reviews.

Could've gotten an R7 for cheaper than your $400 delidlake.

looks fine, you could get better bang for buck with amd but if you don't like pooinloo i understand

either option will poo all over your q6600

Besides the tim, I think Intel has it figured out.
I don't wanna wait for AMD to push out updates for the R7 and say how well it's performing in AMD tailored benchmarks.

paying for a delid lol

$40 now

you're so fucking insecure, if you wanna get a coolermaster cooler go for it, joke's on you

no you couldnt lol

>you're so fucking insecure, if you wanna get a coolermaster cooler go for it, joke's on you
shut your mouth stupid nigger.

...

>paying for a delid lol

Oh, right. Because the delid tool and thermal paste would've been free.

Oh, right. Because the delid tool and thermal paste would've been $50.

go shill your nigger-tier parts elsewhere.

~$20 for delid tool. ~$15 for liquid ultra thermal paste.
Oh, boy. I really missed out and over paid. What the fuck am I gonna do

>You will massively regret that CPU cooler.
How so? Went for it because I've always seen it regarded as the go-to cheap HSF.

>Not a fan of that PSU, I'd go up or down in price, an m12ii 520 over that desu.
Considering the m12ii just to save some shekels. Reviews on the Whisper M seem to rate it over or on par with the G2 and the RM550x which were my other choices. Not looking to dump more jew gold.

Trying to avoid pooinloo, yeah. Aware it' might be worth waiting for the R5s but - fuck it - I've waited long enough at this point.

I don't know shit about cooling, my GPU is idling at 40C
Should I do something about that?

Gonna build my first PC, rate my list. Mid-tier

PCPartPicker part list: pcpartpicker.com/list/rZtFyf
Price breakdown by merchant: pcpartpicker.com/list/rZtFyf/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($143.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($105.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($146.78 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($374.00 @ Amazon)
Case: Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case ($38.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($62.89 @ Newegg)
Total: $1062.02
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-02 11:35 EDT-0400

Only reason I'm spending more on the mobo is because I need wireless networking, getting a cheaper one+adapter seems to be the same price anyway.

No. Thats pretty normal.

Cool, thanks

if you want to pay a $20 incompetence tax, go for it, buddy. But don't be so mad about it.

It was mass market, overrated garbage in 2011.. but it actually competed. Nowadays, 6 years later, it doesn't. It's trash and hell to install. Take my suggestion of the i32, I have around 12 alternatives I can personally vouch for too in that price range.

if you go by "seem" you're just a brainlet. Go for the m12ii then, it's really well made.

no

you don't know how to pick a motherboard, your video card is overpriced, but it looks fine. a cheaper one + adapter is so much better, and actually cheaper.

Recently got a 27' 144hz freesync monitor, but my current PC is starting to choke on dicks (oc'd 7970, oc'd i5-3570k, 8gb ram).

Guess i should wait and get a r5 1600x and some Vega GPU. But that x370 clusterfuck though...
Or maybe grab some x99 on sale with a 5820k? Them extra cores might come in handy later, i guess

Either fall for the ryzen + vega meme, or wait for some actually good intel board + cpu in 2nd half of 2017

>inb4 waitfag

I don't go for mATX stuff generally but that case is fantastic for the money and really nice to build in.

Could drop the M.2 to get a faster/cheaper SSD and still get a super tidy build given 2.5" drives mount behind the mobo.

>Could drop the M.2 to get a faster/cheaper SSD and still get a super tidy build given 2.5" drives mount behind the mobo.
what 2.5" ssd is faster than an M.2 ssd?

2.5" 850 evo is a good bit better than the mx300 and around the same price.

Those coffee lake CPUs better be at least 6 cores.
Still, really want to see what those r5 1600 have to offer.

Yeah, keep an eye out for those R5 Ryzens, definitely.

Coffeelake i7s will be exclusively at 6 cores, afaik

>7700k
>delid
>RGB ram
>850w

better be trolling

No need for a high end mobo with that CPU
Get ryzen 5 instead

no, he's not trolling

this is a fine build

kys

Hey guys, checking in again while working on my build. I was wondering if Fallout 4 would run okay-ish if my build has an i5 - 7500 and a 1050 Ti GPU. I don't need it to run on ultra with 700 FPS, but I would like to play that game at decent settings. Anyone know if that CPU and GPU is good enough to do the job?

xD ebin

Would run.

But like you said, don't expect spaceage-tier graphics

what's the bigger bottleneck, the GPU or the CPU?

Google next time

pcpartpicker.com/list/JTvtqk
Did I do good? Hes going to add a video card later when hes got more cash. How cheap are ultrawides now?

I'd be guessing they're more or less balanced, practically, but bottleneck probably leaning towards GPU.

It'll be plenty playable but you're going to have to drop some settings to hit a solid 60fps at 1080p.

If you can stretch to a 1060 or RX480 you'd have a better experience but the 1050 will do the job if the budget's really tight.

>Where
forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/28669-Microsoft-Toolkit-Official-KMS-Solution-for-Microsoft-Products
magnet:?xt=urn:btih:FB59D3260575A6BFDE6880CE4FF8893D10F01B06

really though, are you retarded? make an account and you can view the magnet link.

Ryzen 5 is a lot better overall.
consider a corsair 100r silent

Rate, suggest replacements, etc. Budget is ~$850

PCPartPicker part list: pcpartpicker.com/list/FnnVRG
Price breakdown by merchant: pcpartpicker.com/list/FnnVRG/by_merchant/

>CPU: Intel Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.49 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ OutletPC)
>Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($69.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($119.88 @ OutletPC)
>Storage: Zotac Premium Edition 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.68 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
>Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB ARMOR 8G OC Video Card ($219.99 @ Jet)
Case: BitFenix Nova ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
>Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $860.68

What would be better, a single stick of 8gb DDR4 ram or 2 sticks of 4gb DDR4 RAM?

pcpartpicker.com/list/PHBRhq
So wait for Ryzen? Thats the build now.

Anyone ever use one of these? does it work? can it turn the PC on when it is off (appears to be powered by PCI slot, so how?)

It's either something like this, or running a wired switch out the back of my case, because my case has power buttons on top and my cat keeps shutting it down or resetting it.

2 sticks is better if you dont plan on upgrading EVER.

1 stick is better if you plan on getting more ram later.

2 sticks of 4gb. dual channel RAM > single channel RAM
why do you need a heatsink if you have a non-overclockable cpu, just use the stock heatsink and put that money towards a better quality SSD. >zotac ssd

>no you couldnt lol
sure you could

>so how?
It looks like it pulls power from the standby power line (pin 10.) Your power supply supplies a low current 5V line to the motherboard when the system is off.

PCIe NICs support WoL, logic dictates there has to be some standby power for that to work, so I assume that should work as well. I've added a relay in parallel to my server's power switch to control it from a Raspberry Pi, there's no reason why that part wouldn't work.

Does that exist with an IR sensor?

Wake On LAN, OR ILO/IPMI.

>Anyone ever use one of these? does it work? can it turn the PC on when it is off (appears to be powered by PCI slot, so how?)
your motherboard is always on as long as your computer is connected to the wall outlet and the power supply switch is on.

>IR
>Line-of-sight
>Back panel

Pic is my current solution :^)
My previous build had buttons on the motherboard itself, so I would just open the side panel.

I figured they would have figured it out somehow, so have any of you used something like this?

Not that i have seen, but I am not sure

No, I've literally never even heard of it before.
If you want to go more case-moddy, you could replace it with a toggle switch like such. You would be looking for a normally-open SPST momentary switch.

If I was going that far, I could just put a button in one of the 5 1/4 blanks... in fact, that's a pretty good idea

You dont need high end mobo with any CPU, unless doing extreme overclocks.
You buy high end mobo if you acualy use those features and it raraly has to do with CPU.

>Locked i5s are a much better value than unlocked i5s and perform similarly, especially in games.
If you are buying decent cooler its stupid to buy locked i5, since you can easy overclock at least 10-15%.
Especialy since next point is talking about 1070/80/80Ti...

I just wish manufacturers would make durable versions of motherboards not marketed to the gamer crowd. I don't really care about overclocking or LEDs, but I do want something that will last and be reliable

It connects to motherboard where you normally connect PC case power button pins. You can even see the cable on picture.
There must be voltage on those pins since it powers on PC when you press the button on case so it uses that.

They do. Like Asrock had Ultra Durable MBs without gaming leds and shit. Dunno if still does.

Also "durable" is mostly marketing thing now.
How long will you use it? 5 years max on the average, you dont need ultra durable turbo 20 years of life capacitors.
There are many PCs running for 10+ years on cheapest mobos.

Best "budget" atx for a 4560?

I'm gonna upgrade to an 15 or so later this year.

oh neat, I have been hearing a lot of good things about Asrock lately.

That's a great point. I am just jaded after having an MSI board blow caps on me, then the replacement stopped holding BIOS settings after poweroff, even after trying multiple new batteries.

i5*

Rate pls, i will be waiting for R5 and possibly vega to come out an check the marks.

Almost exclusive for gaymen. Some browsing and such aside. As for now i think 7700k is still the best for it and also kind of futureproof. Since i will build this to last 6-7 years. Will also add my old 1.5 tb hdd as cheap storage to it.

Write now im unsure to what case to get that fits with the noctua. Also will i have to de-lid to not need a fire extingisher?

Eurofagg here btw. Help is appreciated:
de.pcpartpicker.com/list/VNTgNN

No, you won't need to delid it. You should be able to hit 5ghz with that cooler and good case flow, provided your chip is good.

Are "gamer" motherboards unreliable? Have you seen some statistics to back this up or what? I haven't had any mobo die on me since that fucking horrible EVGA 680i early on in the S775 days. Fuck motherboards with NVIDIA chipsets, good thing they stopped making them entirely as far as I'm concerned.

> I am just jaded after having an MSI board blow caps on me, then the replacement stopped holding BIOS settings after poweroff, even after trying multiple new batteries.
The point is, if something like this happens its from manufacturing process issues and parts tolarance.
If 1 milion mobos works ok for 10 years and yours breaks after a year there is no other explanation.
Thats why theres warranty - they know there can be problems and issues in time.
But if you can produce perfect mobo for 150$, or not so perfect for 100$ and have even 2% of warranty returns, its easy choice to make, especialy you sell both for same price of 300$.

He didnt said "gamer" are not reliable.
He want durable without "gamer" shit.

I misread, I guess the issue then is just with the decorations? Everything else like higher quality components, better cooling and higher capacity CPU power delivery will in general prolong the lifetime of the product while also enabling OC. If you remove those from a gaming motherboard you're likely ending up with worse reliability, the only irrelevant shit are the decorations really, which are of trivial importance in an internal part.

Isnt 1080 more bang for buck after price drop from 1080Ti? (maybe not exacly performance per dollar, but more futureproof without cosintg a lot more)
1080 received more price drop than 1070.

Thx hoping for the silicon lottery then.

yes.

no reason to buy a 1070 unless you buy it for well under 300.

Hilariously, the MSI Gaming X 1080 was like 470 after rebate on Newegg, when most 1070's are 400-440 still. Ridiculous.

read and Anything Z series for Intel seems enough from good manufacturer.
This is not a car you are buying for 15 years.
If your mobo breaks down after year or two its manufacturing issue and no matter how much gaming your mobo would be it could happen.

Yeah, but i'm kinda hitting my budget limits with the 1070. I will look out for some Deals though and if vega will change anything.

Sadly the newegg + Groupon thing isn't available in germanistan.

Does anybody have any recommendation for a slim mITX case? So far I'm leaning towards the fractal design node 202 or the silverstone rvz02 but I wanna know if there's anything else.

That what I was thinking in Its mosly less than 80E difference even in Europe for better versions like GamingX between 1070 and 1080.

Then either save for 1080 or wait for Vega.
If Vega will hit 1080 levels in games for less, Nvidia will probably have to lower prices, or you just buy Vega.
I would wait either way.

Will Corsair RM550x be enough for i7 7700 + GTX 1070 or I should go with RM650x?

post ur full build and google a psu calculator to check.

Go on PC part picker, put in your build there and pick a PSU that's twice as big as the calculated wattage.

>ram prices

enough

Thanks.

I got this issue when using PC parts picker, is this something to worry about or no?

And what is the difference between the 6XXX series and 7XXX series intel processors? I'm guessing the 7XXX is the latest?