>Headphone purchase advice
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For sub-$50 headphones and IEMs, check out infographic in >Sup Forums wiki headphone FAQ:
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Previous thread:
AKGs are so qt
earspeakers.
AKG BTFO
HssssSSSsssSSssss.
Since the HD 600 is shit whats a good pair of open back headphones under $300 for gaming?Preferably something with a wide soundstage so I can hear where footsteps and distant sounds are coming from in Rainbow 6 or Neotokyo.
Audio hell... worse than idol hell?
>Since the HD 600 is shit
You seem utterly confused. Go watch some HD600 reviews on youtube or something.
Ive watched at least 200 HD6XX reviews
Its shit regarding soundstage according to the anonymous posts in the previous thread which I value over youtube shills
powerful stuff
What do you even think soundstage is?
My former main headphones, HD598, exaggerate that massively. I still prefer my HD600, be it for games or anything else really.
Can you recommend me some IEMs for ~70€? Rather neutral please.
I was thinking of Philips TX2 or some of the Fidelio.
Bought a HD 598 cs cuz I needed something comfy for extended wearing sessions (3+hrs). No problems in gaming a most music, but I'm finding that the higher range sounds are "far away" some times.
Is this something an EQ can sort out? Is this an ohms/ amp problem? I'm running it off my motherboard, but it's got pretty good onboard chipset.
>thinks the crappy soundstage in Sennheiser is any good or preferable to anything
What the fuck do you even think soundstage is?
lol, cs.
Did you really need a closed set?
Do they even sell the open versions anymore?
Is there a good way to insulate your ears.
Occasionally my worn out headphones will shock my ear. For example, the CRT across from my computer would normally require me the take off my headphones to turn it on. Instead of taking them off I laid out the ground and turned it on with my bare big toe. The moment it turns on it sends at p electric jolt from my toe to my ear and into the headphones. Other times my headphones will send a stream electric shocks to my ear. You would think the squishy foam inside would be enough, but it's not.
Any recommendations?
Yes. Also known as 598se for the black version.
Get rid of your faulty electronics before you start a fire.
Hmm okay, I haven't seen any here in Australia, they all seem to be replaced with the cs version
I've been using my K702 to play games since when I returned my Fidelio X2 back to Amazon more than a year ago. K702's impressive performance in games and movies is what's keeping me from selling them to get the superior HD600.
What's with the sudden hate for Audio-gd amps?
pls help
AKG k7xx
> all these AKGs cuckcs
Yea they're /fa/ but god damn do they sound like shit.
Just increase the treble or get AKGs
There are HD700 that have soundstage next to HD800 and a great imaging with emphasised highs, but they are around 400$ and highs are very emphasised so I would suggest you HD712/7xx.
>imaging
wat
Yes, HD598, HD598se and the newer HD599.
The cs version is unrelated to the open version. It uses the same drivers as HD380, and is a different headphone with a different frequency response which doesn't even resemble the open version.
Just exploiting the HD598's name popularity.
How do I upgrade from Fidelio X2?
Always thought my headphones had too much tightness to them
anyway after years of usage it's starting to get bad
the pads are yellow FILTHY from the contact of my ears with all the oil and shit that's on the ear skin
the plastic forms of the headphone driver are starting to poke through the pad and its getting uncomfortable
they're hd650s
>lulheiser build quality
LUL
DT990
HssssSSsSsss
If you ask for V that's V
I asked for an upgrade, not a downgrade.
I still think it is. EQ the treble down with a parametric EQ
Gonna pick up jaybird x3's in the next month or so, anyone have any comments before I pull the trigger?
HD600.
>user can't handle treble
Kek. That's on you, dear /hpg/ poster.
Grab any AKG headphone in your price range; heck, grab any headphone from any well-known brand from your price range that isn't from Sennheiser's HD 6X0 series. But generally, if you want soundstage, take a look at AKG headphones.
Are frequency response graphs a reliable measurement of quality? Specifically the bass part.
Please no bully.
>Implying a small-as-fuck soundstage is the end all-be-all for gaming
Why do Sennshills unironically believe this?
Any specifics, user?
He likes bass, and you recommend him HD 600s? Can you stop shilling so much, user?
If he likes good bass he wouldn't be using X2s in the first place.
Any other open-backed headphones from around the same price range?
Bassy open backs? No. Unless you go into good planars you'll get fuck all sub-bass. Look for a used HE500 or something I guess.
See? There you go, user. Now quit shilling no bass HD 600s to anons who want bass.
It wasn't even me who recommended them. I love my HD600's but I'd never even consider recommending them for someone who listens to stuff with actual sub-bass. I have 770's for that purpose.
HD650s with a wide +7dB peak around 35Hz is amazing
>Are frequency response graphs a reliable measurement of quality? Specifically the bass part.
Yes and yes. Frequency response determines and defines all the linear properties. Having said that, there is some disconnect between what is called "frequency response" by audio folks and by those in technical disciplines.
Repost from the last thread:
For SHP9500 owners, how do you eq them to be more neutral?
I'm pretty new to eqing for headphones; been adding a shelf to boost everything below 50, then cutting a couple db each from 225, 550, 1000, and 5000.
>bought a ath m50 five years back
>great headphones but needed something smaller, so refund
>thinking of buying one in current year
>it costs 30€ more
fuck
its great that most soundrelated equipment doesnt go to shit every two years, like computerperfomance related stuff. But sometimes it sucks.
cuck
Buy 770's. They're an upgrade to M50's/M50x in every way other than portability and lack of removable cable.
Use a slow sine sweep to identify peaks and dips easily.
I don't know the Q of your shelf filter, so I don't know whether it would be set too low or high.
Personally would stick a small boost somewhere around 2kHz.
To a certain extent, you will have figure out the high frequencies for your self. This is where the sine sweep will be useful. I make a cut around 4-5kHz and 10 kHz, fill in the region between that.
What are some good and cheap in ears?
My old Xiaomi Pistons are going to die on me soon, the cables are all fucked up.
Fill out the form. It applies for even cheap shit. Take a look at the /csg/ infograph too.
So can anyone make new infographics for over-ears and below and above 200$?
Infos in the wiki are dated or offline...
What's the best way to use good headphones with PS4?
I've been thinking of getting some better headphones for PC and PS4 and while my sound card will be fine for PC, I'll probably need a DAC/AMP for PS4 and it's hard to decide what to go for.
For headphones I've been thinking about AKG 612 or 550. 612 would definitely need amp since they're 120 ohms. Would something like SMSL M3 dac/amp be okay to power them up? It has optical in which is a must to plug to PS4. Alternatively FIIO E10k would probably be a better amp, but since there's no optical on it I'd need whatever converter to go from optical to coaxial, but I'm worried if doing that with a cheap converter wouldn't decrease quality too much.
Alternatively, would AKG 550 be good enough to use with PS4 with no amp at all? They are only 32 ohm so could also go for those assuming they will play loud enough.
Or should I maybe consider some other, different headphones at this price range? My budget is kind of tight for this month, so getting a ~150$ headphones is ok but getting an expensive amp at the same time could be tough (unless I'd go for FIIO E10k, I have enough money on this one online store to use and it's the only decent one they have there).
what's a good entry level planar magnetic headphone?
AKG712 has a massive soundstage, too bad its constructed very poorly and mine broke.
What's your definition of "entry level"? Some sort of price cap? Also why planar magnetic?
>took very bad care of them, now one ear is broken and the other ear is distorted
I'm so sorry, now I need a new headphone.
I'd be happy just getting the same, but I hear I am missing out on the "mids" or someshit.
Would anyone recommend an upgrade to this that is not really more expensive?
its been 2 or so years, so the prices should be lower anyway.
also, open ear headphones have spoiled me, I dont think I want closed ears anymore.
>headphones for gaming
>massdrop.com
Is this a good deal? I'm not really an audiophile, but it's right around how much I want to spend for a pair of IEMs with an added chance of getting a better pair. I'm a little skeptical because, just looking at the MSRP, it looks a little too good to be true.
The Amazon price of those IEMs all hover around $30, including the lowest tier model. You can spend a bit more to get them from Amazon immediately but honestly it's not a bad deal either way.
How much of an upgrade is the k712 pro over the k240? Is it worth the money?
Used HE500/HE560 or wait for a the next massdrop M1060 batch.
HE400i/S with pads that seal well.
>massdrop.com
Archive or screenshot or something for non-massdrop people?
Time to get yourself some HD600.
Scratch that, because your shit budget.
Go HD599 or HD598se.
Does anyone have a collection of all the headphone girls that they can upload somewhere for me?
Why don't you just take 30 seconds to sign up?
The gist is it's a lottery type thing. The possible products you get and their corresponding chances are below. There are some other better "prizes" that have an infinitesimally small chance of being pulled.
Sennheiser CX 1.00 Black: 60%
Sennheiser CX 2.00 G or I Black: 30%
Sennheiser CX 5.00 G or I Black: 10%
>I've been thinking of getting some better headphones for PC and PS4 and while my sound card will be fine for PC, I'll probably need a DAC/AMP for PS4 and it's hard to decide what to go for.
Keep in mind, you won't be able to use a microphone unless you plug that in with a different device. A Behrigner UCA202/222 could work though. Paired with a Magni 2 its not a bad option at all, and you can keep microphone functionality. Massdrop Headphone Amp can also work, and is cheaper especially with coupons, which are supposedly easy to find.
>For headphones I've been thinking about AKG 612 or 550. 612 would definitely need amp since they're 120 ohms.
Not inherently. Impedance alone doesn't mean much. You need to factor in sensitivity too. Plenty of higher impedance headphones run fine of a standard source like a phone or laptop. Though yeah, the K612 isnt very efficient so you will likely want an additional amp.
>Would something like SMSL M3 dac/amp be okay to power them up?
SMSL has sketchy build quality. A FX-Audio DAC-X6 would be a better option if you dont want to spend much. Has optical too.
>It has optical in which is a must to plug to PS4.
What? You can use USB. PS4 supports it.
>Alternatively FIIO E10k would probably be a better amp, but since there's no optical on it I'd need whatever converter to go from optical to coaxial, but I'm worried if doing that with a cheap converter wouldn't decrease quality too much.
An optical to coaxial converter completely removes the point of having a DAC since coaxial is analogue in this case.
>Alternatively, would AKG 550 be good enough to use with PS4 with no amp at all? They are only 32 ohm so could also go for those assuming they will play loud enough.
Again, the impedance means little. K550 have severe seal issues. They're practically un-recommendable without prior listening.
pls respond
>you will never be a qt anime girl
Thanks for your reply. I'll think about getting FX-Audio DAC-X6. Only problem is it's not available here locally so my only option would be Aliexpress and waiting a few weeks for delivery.
Also not being able to use mic is not really a problem for me since I plan to mostly just play single player stuff.
>You can use USB. PS4 supports it.
I've got the impression that only some amps work with PS4 on USB. At least I've seen posts saying E10K not working with ps4 like that. If I could just plug the dac/amp through usb with no downsides, that'd be great.
I guess I'll just buy the K612 now and either order FX-Audio DAC-X6 or wait till next month to buy some better amp.
On a sidenote, my PC has Asus Xonar Phoebus Solo soundcard, I assume it's enough for 612, or would using a dac/amp also be prefferable here?
Just get an fiio d3
Pulling the trigger on m40x
What am i in for
way too thin earpads
schiit stack. modi 2 uber + magni 2 uber.
I have an old pair of DT770s that I neve use but the left driver is damaged so it sounds tinny compared to the right driver and the bass sounds muddy compared to the right driver. The right ear pad is a little ripped too.
What can I do with it? if I try and sell it I won't get anything, maybe £10. Repairing it sounds like it might be more expensive than what it's worth.
Any other shit or DIY shit I can do, like creating noise cancelling ear muffs?
>dropped headphones a bunch
>now getting slight static at higher volumes
REEEEEEEEEEE
>Do they even sell the open versions anymore?
Yes, why the fuck wouldn't they? I didn't even know closed versions existed.
am i a good goy, /hpg/?
>Budget
Around $300
>Source
Planning on buying the Schiit stack to go with whatever headphones I get.
>Past headphones
HD439
I assume everything is an upgrade from my old headphones, though I'm conflicted on what to get as I play games quite a bit, sometimes listen to music and watch movies/shows etc.
I kind of was focused on getting the HD650's though the soundstage sounds a little offputting and I don't know how to compare it to my current headphones, I also kind of wanted to get something that'll go good with the amps since I've never had any before.
So basically I have no fucking idea what to get now, HD650's, K702's, DT990, and apparently theres the SHP9500 that sounds similar in quality to the HD650's for only 70 bucks.
My Stax Lambda Nova Basic system just came in from jp. It's pretty much in an unused condition, a pretty rare find.
The only problem is it's rated for the 100V of Japan and I'm in the US.
Now, I've heard that Stax actually ships the same 100V AC adapters in it's US stores as it would in Japan. Is this true?
Is it safe to use the official 100V Stax AC adapter in a 120V plug? I don't care about the ac-adapter but I don't want to fry my energizer.
Please provide some input /gee/
picture unrelated
Etymonic MK5
Grown fonder of these ones over the LCD XCs.
Have you checked the power adapter specs? Some are made to accept a 100-120v line voltage, and/or some may be manually adjustable via a jumper. That said, safest option is probably to purchase and use a step-down transformer.
If I were you, I'd want to minimize the risk of damage as such a problem (frying the energizer and/or ear speakers) is most likely not covered by the warranty (if there even is a warranty available, being that it's imported). And even if the warranty covers it, it's probably going to be a hassle with shipping costs.
>energizer
Model?
Dont buy white, the finish wears away. Theyre fantastic minicans
>is most likely not covered by the warranty
hehe, these are a very old model so it would not apply anyway. They're technically used but practically new though
>100-120v line voltage
yeah unfortunately the power adapter does not specify a variable input. I don't have anything lying around with that polarity (and linearity is another concern) so like you said, I'm probably going to need a step down transformer. Damn
Where's the best place to ask questions for desktop audio questions? Looking to spend in the range of 150-250 on two satellites and a sub. Attachable to regular I/O 8 Channels or spdif. 1 port.
I think I was incorrectly using the term energizer interchangeably. My driver unit is the SRM-Xh. An old model.
X2
You do have the power of EQ manipulate the sound, "soundstage and imaging" are dependent on the EQ used.
DC wall wart? Not a problem.
Just get the appropriate DC converter, make sure polarity is correct and such. Stax can be peculiar with polarity.
You could even run it off a battery, if you like.
based poorfag