/sqt/ - stupid questions thread

Old Thread: Post your simple/small/stupid questions
Take at least 10 seconds to google first

Other urls found in this thread:

happyassassin.net/2014/01/25/uefi-boot-how-does-that-actually-work-then/
backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-benchmark-stats-2016/
lists.debian.org/debian-user/2016/02/msg00062.html
youtube.com/watch?v=3zpgQpdy_fI
aliexpress.com/item/QOTOM-310G4-3215U-Barebone-mini-pc-Dual-core-4-nics-Mini-pc-Ubuntu-Industrial-desktop-Computer/32769767156.html
cinema.shams-tele.com/
codepen.io/user/pen/WjNZBO?editors=1000#0
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

Reposting question:

I just installed a second SSD in the PCIe slot of my laptop. Main SSD runs Ubuntu. The new one has windows.

Everything works fine, only when I run the windows SSD I must change the BIOS to boot into UEFI. This is fine but the boot takes minutes as with the shutdowns. From what I understand this is that something related to grub and linux being the OS of the main drive. Windows doesn't seem to work well when it's not the main drive.
Any idea of how to fix this other than to switch the OSes of the drives? Thanks

seems like you installed one OS on uefi other on legacy?
anyway, without reinstalling I am not sure what else you could do, in the future always have windows installed first, as linux can hijack its EFI partition, but its shitwork other way around

"ls" seems to sort by name usually, but it fails to do it for these symbols (LANG=en_US.UTF-8).
~$ ls -1
Ⅶ.txt
Ⅳ.txt
Ⅷ.txt
Ⅴ.txt
Ⅲ.txt
Ⅱ.txt
Ⅸ.txt
Ⅹ.txt
I.txt
Ⅵ.txt

Why?

>one OS on uefi other on legacy

Yes, that's actually exactly what I did, I'm sorry I didn't specify. Not going to lie, this BIOS shit is Greek to me so that's cool that you knew that.

Ubuntu is on legacy.

Okay then, I'll swap them out. My new M.2 is whip fast anyway.

you can have few min of reading this
happyassassin.net/2014/01/25/uefi-boot-how-does-that-actually-work-then/

its a good read, well written and knowing little bit more about EFI is handy

Asking again in this new thread.

60 something Power on count
800 Power on hours

Is this normal for a new hard drive in a new laptop? Apparently its from the factory testing and such, is this true?

dunno, never checked smart stats of brand new PCs
30 days of power on seems excessive for imaging and basic testing, but nothing really impactful, also if its not ssd, get ssd

Hey thanks user I'll read through it.

because those are roman numbers and it sorts numerically.

>sorts numerically
>still wrong order
All of my what.

What OS should I use to help get out of botnet?

any linux distro?

>30 days of power on seems excessive for imaging and basic testing

Maybe because its from HGST and they have more stringent testing? I'm not worried about it at all just seemed a little odd.

I think that actual manufacturer of the HDD resets smart values on sale after testing, but the notebook manufacturer who put system there and maybe did some notebook testing

but yeah, I will have new y520 in hands in upcoming weeks, will check its smart values just out of curiosity

That makes sense. As its Lenovo they're probably endurance testing again to make sure.

so is the ryzen 5 good enough for gaming at 1080p? (1500x,1600)

yes

I am looking to buy some HDD's for storage/backup and pi-seedbox.
Now I've found this picture one time on Sup Forums with crossed out manufacturers who were shit.
Now I recall WD and Seagate being shit, does that leave Toshiba?
Or are there other reliable hdd manufacturers?

WD Blues will either fail within a month, in which case you just get a free replacement, or they last for infinity years. I have one from 2007 that's still going strong and sees a ton of daily IO

Hitachi drives are probably the gold standard, but they've been bought out and divided up so I don't know the risk involved with them anymore.

Seagate is unabashed shit.

Thank you, if I find a WD I'll see to it that the replacement policy is active at the store.

When I plug my headset into my phone it sounds like 3 times as loud, and has a lot more bass. I really want it to sound like this on my PC, and I don't know why it doesn't.

What can I do?

Turn the headphone port volume up? If you're on Windows you can try disabling enhancements in sound properties as well.

WD and Seagate are like only one left
toshiba does only 2.5" notebook drives as far as I know

read through blackblaze statistics, choose what you got budget for
just dont be retard and read the statistics correctly
meaning you take in to account years in service

backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-benchmark-stats-2016/

Yea everything is as high as it can go. What would the enhancements have to do with it? If anything it made it louder.

What is the best distro to install to learn how to use linux? I have absolutely no idea where to start but I'm so fucking sick of bloatware windows and its fucking garbage.

I read the Sup Forums guide but it's vague about what distro I should try.

Toshiba took over HGST's 3.5" division

i thought WD bought them
jesus fuck what a mess

Linux Mint.


>>>/fglt/.

...

I tried this.
lists.debian.org/debian-user/2016/02/msg00062.html
cd /target
mount --rbind /proc proc/
mount --rbind /sys sys/
mount --rbind /dev dev/
mount --rbind /run run/
chroot . /bin/bash

then

apt-get update
apt-get install grub-efi-amd64

update-grub
grub-install
#grub-install failed saying no target specified...so you need to point it at the disk.

grub-install /dev/nvme0n1
#it should say install successful or something along these lines.

Then continue without boot...

When I booted the system I get:

grub>

How do I fix this?

I've restarted the installer and gotten to the point of installing grub again:
:/# grub-install
Installing for x86_64-efi platform
efibootmgr: Skipping unreadable variable Boot0001: Input/output error
efibootmgr: Skipping unreadable variable Boot0001: Input/output error
efibootmgr: Skipping unreadable variable Boot0001: Input/output error
Installation finished. No error reported.

Obviously there's some fuckery going on here. Wat do?

I have a physical button and a Raspberry Pi. The button is connected through GPIO and I know and have a short Python script that runs when it is pressed. It is a push-button meaning it finishes a circuit when pressed down, and the circuit is broken when nobody is pressing on it.
I have the button set-up in such a way it switches between 2 different Python scripts.
i = 0
#button pressed
i += 1
if (i%2 == 0):
#do script 1
else:
#do script 2


Now, if I'd want 3 scripts, it'll be:
i = 0
#button pressed
i += 1
if (i%3 == 0):
#do script 1
elif (i%2 == 0 and not i%3 == 0):
#do script 2
else:
#do script 3

The problem is, it switches in the following manner: 1-2-3-2-1-3-1-2-3-2-1-3, and not desired 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3.
I am fucking clueless as to what this problematic is called and therefore can't google any alternatives. "Programming switch between 3 or more different codes" isn't a very good search query as you can imagine.

ubuntu
youtube.com/watch?v=3zpgQpdy_fI

What can I do to route my home guests' traffic trough VPN and prevent them from accessing my main network/devices?

>my home guests' traffic
meaning what
a pc?
an account?
devices on wifi?
...

just make a vlan

devices on wifi & ethernet.

I went to the link posted in that mailing list and got the latest kernel. Seemed to have worked (with same error messages but whatever).

well, if you got budget get some hardware from aliexpress and put pfsense on to it
you will have total control

aliexpress.com/item/QOTOM-310G4-3215U-Barebone-mini-pc-Dual-core-4-nics-Mini-pc-Ubuntu-Industrial-desktop-Computer/32769767156.html

/r/pfsense

Is it possible to connect to two ISP at the same time?
Or to connect to two different routers connected to two different ISP at the same time?

Can anyone help me on how to import a cmake Linux project into eclipse on Windows?
According to google, I have to import it as makefile project, but after doing this I can't figure out how to build it, and the guides on google are all for eclipse on Windows.

Now, whenever I click "build", it gives me
"Cmake exited with status 1. See cmake console for details." with no cmake console to be found, and if I check the eclipse error log, it says "build artifact is missing", which is a fucking JAVA error.

Show us your complete code

sure, decent routers have load balancing

>load balancing
I don't see how this is relevant.
I want to have access to two different ISPs at the same time.
Since each ISP have some sort of members exclusive site that can only be accessed if you are using that ISP.

See for yourselves.
cinema.shams-tele.com/

I'd like to backup a bunch of my images and music and stuff on a cloud because I think my HD is finally giving up

I've been trying amazon/google drive together with the amazon app for amazon and insync for gdrive but they don't seem to have what I need. They keep making new folders where it duplicates all my shit in just to keep it synched, I don't want that

What I want is: Let me keep the original file locations WITHOUT duplicating them into some newly created folder, and upload that folder to the cloud. Every time I add an image to that folder, it should sync it to the cloud

so for example: USB/IMAGES/CARS (for example's sake)
it should only copy that CARS folder to the cloud, and every time I add a pic to it, upload it automatically to the respective folder in the cloud

yet for some god forsaken reason none of them do that, am I asking too much? what am I doing wrong?

Speakers plugged into back audio jack and they work fine, headphones plugged into front jack and they work fine but super quiet. When i plug my headphones into the back audio jack they dont work. What am i missing?

#imports (time, GPIO, sensor)

#segments

#digits

sensor = BMP085.BMP085()

#numbers

try:
while True:
input_state = GPIO.input(26)
if input_state == False:
#button pressed
i += 1
time.sleep(0.2)

if (i%2 == 0):
temp = format(sensor.read_temperature())
disp = str(temp) + 'C'
rawt = disp.replace(".","")
for digit in range(4):
for loop in range(0,7):
GPIO.output(segments[loop], num[rawt[digit]][loop])
if (int(time.ctime()[18:19])%2 == 0) and (digit == 1):
GPIO.output(27, 0)
elif (digit == 1):
GPIO.output(27, 0)
else:
GPIO.output(27, 1)
GPIO.output(digits[digit], 1)
time.sleep(0.002)
GPIO.output(digits[digit], 0)
else:
n = time.ctime()[11:13]+time.ctime()[14:16]
s = str(n).rjust(4)
for digit in range(4):
for loop in range(0,7):
GPIO.output(segments[loop], num[s[digit]][loop])
if (int(time.ctime()[18:19])%2 == 0) and (digit == 1):
GPIO.output(27, 0)
else:
GPIO.output(27, 1)
GPIO.output(digits[digit], 1)
time.sleep(0.001)
GPIO.output(digits[digit], 0)
finally:
GPIO.cleanup()

Not sure how this helps, had to comment some of it out for the 2kCharLimit). This displays current time or temperature on a 4 digit 7 segment display.

Following this: I booted ubuntu live usb, but cannot find the usb drive in the file manager.

I tried mounting it, it gives me:
ubuntu@ubuntu:~$ sudo mount /dev/sdb1 /mnt
mount: /dev/sdb1 is already mounted or /mnt busy
/dev/sdb1 is already mounted on /cdrom

Alright, I've set up a raidz pool and set it to be mounted to /Storage.

Now what?

what the fuck I'm retarded, I tried to mount the live usb.

I ran sudo fdisk -l and saw a flash drive, thought it was the usb drive that didnt work, but it was the live usb.

So sudo fdisk -l doesn't print the usb drive, what should I do now?

what output do you get from ls -la?

porn

whats a the "Sup Forums approved" virus removal program now?

dban

I'm still good with mbam, reinstall if shit's worse than mbam can handle.

he said removal, not loic

update:
ls /dev/ | grep sd prints sdc

so I tried to mount /dev/sdc, which gives me:
mount: /dev/sdc: can't read superblock

>loic
i meant nifo
my bad

So my trusty G700s is in its death throes, none of the programmable buttons work. Fortunately I have exactly 1 month of warranty left... Unfortunately all the current lineup I can choose a replacement from does not include a G700s, and all the choices are absolute dog shit.

So I'm probably going to have to settle for a wired mouse with less buttons and without even side-tilt on the wheel (G502 if anyone's wondering), so does anyone have any recomendations for a good wireless mouse I can use with my laptop?

Ideal specifications (which I realise probably can't be met, so they're in order of priority):
- Low-friction scrolling wheel (after using G700s for three years I cannot stand wheels with hard ticking)
- Back and forward buttons (doesn't have to be programmable)
- Side-tilting scrolling wheel
- Rechargeable batteries

Since it's going to be a secondary mouse for using on the go with my laptop, ideally I'd like not to spend too much on it, so my budget would be something like £30.

Alternatively I might just keep the 502 sealed, sell it on ebay or something and get myself a new 700s from amazon. Incidentally, does anybody here live in the UK and want one for like £40? Heck, while we're at it, they offered me anything other than the G900, so if somebody wants like a G403 wireless or anything else, and is willing to make a deal, I could ask them for that instead

didnt know malwarebyts had a nickname..
just the free one is fine?
I have to fix a family members rig and between firefox/firewalls, i havent seen a virus in years

Are VR headsets any good to watch movies on?

I was looking at the gear head set, as I am likely getting the next Note phone assuming it's good.

Malwarebytes and Adwcleaner.
You will need both, they will be merged eventually tho.

no, resolution is way too low.

I'm working with ubuntu for the first time. I need to set up a LAMP server for my supervisor's archive database.

Google lamp
>You need php
Google php
>You need mysql
google mysql
>You need apache
google apache
finally, it doesn't have some bullshit prerequisite
try to install apache
>don't forget to update apt-get
Oh, uh sure I guess
>did you upgrade apt-get too?
Fine, there I did it
Apache done
mysql done
php done
install the program
>you need ffmpeg and graphicsmagick
Well alright here I go
Oh these are packages I can't use apt-get
>readme: you need to `./configure`
sure buddy
>yasm/nasm file or directory not found

Oh hehe
HAHAHA
YASM AND NASM HOW COULD I FORGET YASM AND NASM
YASSIM
NASSIM
YASSIM
NASSIM

I'm gonna fucking puke
How does anyone deal with linux

The same.

Wouldn't it just be easier to reset your counter (i) when it's supposed to reach the max value?

>watching movies
>on VR

It's a meme my dude

Even for gaming which traditionally settles with worse image quality, I would still wait until the hardware improves. If instead you're looking for a cinematic experience you're going to be very, very sorely disappointed

No need for maintenance? No cronjob?

...

>sudo apt install
>Automatically installs dependencies

That's how.
Also, LAMP is a fucking software stack, not something to simply install like a fucking terminal emulator.
If you need to develop LAMP you need to make sure your configuration is correct.
RTFM

L inux
A pache
M ySQL
P HP

of course you need php mysql and apache to get the AMP in LAMP

>"how to install lamp on YOUMEMEDISTROFCHOICE"
gives you a step-by-step guided on how to install it.

Alright thanks, I appreciate the answer.

Do you guys think we will get to a cinematic VR experience within, say, 10 years?

how do i make this matching not greedy?

it should only match ¶1¶ and not ¶1¶1¶

add ? after the *

thank you

10 years is a long time, I'd be surprised if we didn't

Most likely.

I'm not particularly knowledgeable about VR but my understanding is that they just need better displays - I can't imagine any particularly fundamental changes being needed beyond that. Head tracking is absolutely fantastic right now, there's very little room for improvement there, so really it's just the displays.

We have 4k smartphones now; the only problem is the refresh rate. I think 4k ~144Hz per eye should be plenty. The tech for that is some time out in the future, but not that far out in the future - you can get UWQHD 120Hz right now (granted on a huge monitor, but again that shouldn't be too difficult to miniaturise) and even 8k TVs are coming out soon.

For gaming like that you'd need the appropriate hardware - driving dual 4k 144Hz screens would be very, very difficult today, if even possible with consumer cards - but for watching movies that will be a non-issue.

Oh yeah forgot to mention - you'd ideally need content tailored for VR viewing. That's really an unknown factor - for all we know VR movies might turn out to be a huge meme and the technology will be used almost only for gaming and simulations (think pilot training), which would be unfortunate but is a definite possibility.

What are some good books about self made billionaires in the tech industry?

Should I go for 1080p 144hz or 1440p 60hz? Or should I spend more and go for 1440p 144hz?

If you have the GPU power for it 1440/144

The Art of the Deal

Depends in your GPU.

How do I backwards quote people?
I mean with NUMBER

59862094

Well I tried my best.

Yeah I tried that one already

is ryzen 5 a gayman cpu or is i5 still the way to go. please elaborate with more than a simple yes or no and maybe links to back this

add the U+061C character

Between 1440p 60Hz and 1080p 144Hz:
- If you want a cinematic experience (e.g. you're using it as an HTPC a lot), go for higher res.
- For literally everything else, pick the refresh rate. It's even worth it just for the cursor smoothness.

If you have the money though, go for both.
- In day-to-day applications, you'll have more screen space in terms of pixels AND be able to enjoy the smoothness of 144Hz
- Assuming you have a passable GPU, you'll be able to enjoy both advantages in any game which is older or less demanding. TF2 is still fun if you can find a good server, you know.
- For the newest and flashiest graphic-intensive games, even if you don't have a top-of-the-line stellar GPU that can handle that, you can always compromise. Having a monitor capable of both not only lets you enjoy both advantages outside of these graphic-intensive games, but also lets you choose which to use while playing them - maybe you'd pick a lower framerate but 1440p for enjoying Skyrim/Witcher landscapes, or maybe you'll scale down on the resolution but keep the smoothness of 144Hz for something like a shooter or any other more fast-paced game.

I might need further instructions

Take the U+061C character and insert it into the text of your post

does 1440p have feasible no lag monitors when talking about 144hz? I know 4k doesn't at the moment.

Fuck off, retard.

؜
you just put the character before the other characters.

codepen.io/user/pen/WjNZBO?editors=1000#0
just for you.

Even Google tried to tell me that

؜

ASUS PG278Q(R) is TN
PG279Q is IPS

I researched both of them at one point when I toyed with buying one, ended up deciding against it because of the cost. Essentially the TN one is, of course, cheaper, but also has absolutely exceptional colour quality for a TN - not as good as IPS, but it's definitely very adequate if you aren't a professional artist or something. Additionally it doesn't suffer from backlight bleed or any of those things.

The IPS one is of course better on the obvious points, but on top of being more expensive some people report problems with having an IPS panel refreshing this fast - typical IPS problems (like, again, backlight bleed) are more pronounced. Last I checked it seemed to be a lottery whether you got a good panel without these defects, or a more flawed one. No idea if they improved since then (that was about a year ago or so).

Acer also has equivalent models, and also BenQ I think. They are generally all really similar though, and the same reasoning as above applies.

>lan doesnt work
>Wifi does
Changed port, cable and pc same shiet
Called isp they tried 2 times and failed
Really makes u tink

I3 spilled 3water 3on3 my3 laptop3 now3 I keep 3getting /a3 bunch 3of 33s 3every3 time3 I hit 3the3 space 3bar.
.
.Also/ 3my 3backspace3 registers 3a / 3/almost 3every3 time3 I 3backspace3 and 3my3 enter3 key3 inserts3 periods /and 3forward 3slashes.
.
.What's 3the 3easiest 3way3 to 3disable 3the 3built-in3 keyboard3 and 3make3 a3 /USB 3one 3my3 default 3keyboard?

Al/so 3ka//eyboard 3recommendations 3for3 like 3$50-100?