/pcbg/ - PC Building General

/pcbg/: Post your component list; rate other anons'; ask questions in general.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons & compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com/

THEN state the PURPOSE of your PC & BUDGET. State COUNTRY if not USA.
List GAMES/SOFTWARE you use often. List resolution & hz if gaming.
Seeking build improvements? Clarify goal: lower price or improved specs?
ctrl+f to see if your question was answered already

>How to assemble a PC, select components & more. (somewhat outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

CPUs:
>G4560 - budget builds (R5 1500x - generally all you need for 60fps with power to spare. No i5
>R5 1600 - best value for higher fps gaming & mixed usage; 1600x if you don't want to OC
>i7-7700k - bad value but good; may have heat issues even at stock clocks
>R7/Xeon - compute/Multitask/mixed use

Graphics:
>G4560 iGPU is fine for LoL, dota2, rocket league, etc
>1050Ti at ~$105. Drop settings if not Freesync/Gsync on newer games; RX560 if discounted
>RX570 4GB - 1080p@60+hz, running most maxed; older games at 144+hz
>RX580 8GB - 1440p@60+hz, inject SMAA & drop settings for some games
>1060 - Generally outperformed by the RX 580 and GSync costs more; consider only if AMD is not an option (ie CUDA)
>1070 - 1080p@144hz/1440p@100+hz
>1080 - 1080p@90-144+hz maxed; 1440p at lower hz.
>1080Ti - 1440p@90-144+hz; 4k@60hz in SOME games, more at lower settings
>Freesync2 & Vega soon

General:
>READ PRODUCT REVIEWS to see if that cheap SSD/PSU or whatever is reliable
>Consider larger SSD-only for what you budget SSD+HDD combined. Add HDD later once needed
>NVMe aren't for faster OS boot. They're primarily for productivity as a scratch disk
>Stop fucking confusing any M.2 drive with NVMe. M.2 is a form factor
>Go mATX form factor for cheaper board+case
>1 SR DIMM is slower than 2 DIMMs

Old:

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/cPV8Cy
geizhals.at/ms-tech-ca-0330-a1551759.html?hloc=at
overclockers.com.au/article.php?id=950857&P=2
pcpartpicker.com/list/wmgPD8
pcpartpicker.com/list/RDRCPs
pcpartpicker.com/product/BcTrxr/dell-monitor-s2716dg
pcpartpicker.com/product/ttnG3C/acer-monitor-xb271hubmiprz
youtube.com/watch?v=uU4cvBU9R9E
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Is IPS a meme? Looking around, apparently the current-gen IPS panel has quality issues due to the high demand for it.

Should I just go for a vastly-cheaper TN?
Seems like any tradeoff in color quality would be made up for by the lack of pic-related shit.

Fuck

I'm thinking about upgrading to the following primarily for gaming:
>ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1070 Mini 8GB GDDR5
$350
>AMD Ryzen 5 1400 Processor
$170
>MSI Gaming AMD Ryzen B350
$90
>Ballistix Sport LT 8GB Kit (4GBx2) DDR4 2400 MT/s
$60

Is this gud?

Is the bequiet pure rock my best bet for a decent cheap cooler that supports LGA1366? The cryorig h7 doesn't unfortunately.

Generally you can simply knock near the edges until this shit disappears.

How can I go about connecting this 10 year old CD/DVD writer to my z97 mobo?

looking for some intake fans that'll fit in the front of the s340 nzxt case

That's IDE. You could spend money on an adapter, or just buy a modern SATA one that's probably alot faster for like $20

What is the best layout for two displays, one is 1440p 144hz the other one 4k 60hz . Both are 27 inches I ve been thinking having one in the normal position while the other one vertically, is that comfy?

I'd go the 4k one vertical. Leave the 144Hz one in the proper orientation for gaming, and get a better framerate because you're not pumping out as many pixels.

One day I will own this general

why would you want a boring, bland ass case like that

it has no character at all

Because it looks like the monolith in 2001 a space a odessy

I found some 3200mhz memory that is listed on the compatibility list for my MSI MOBO . Will I not have to toggle with settings other than A-XMP to get it to run at the advertised clock?

Sorry if stupid question

It's a great server case.

I have an old Lian Li PC-A05. It's nice. Very plain but looks good. Only things I don't like are parallel (rather than perpendicular) hard drive bays and no SSD mounts. Oh and the power LED isn't compatible with my new mobo.

pcpartpicker.com/list/cPV8Cy

using current hardware
>GPU: GTX 970 Meme Edition
>Cooler SCYTHE Katana 3
Rest is all given and unneccesary to list.

>purpose
Primarily playing WoW & compiling Android

Currently torn between my GPU and Monitor pairing.

Will a RX 580 8gb work well with a 144hz 1080p Freesync monitor? My other idea is a 1070 with a 75hz 1440p.

Forgot to add: Austria (the non kangoroo land)

Also looking for a decent looking case like that one i th range up to 50€ geizhals.at/ms-tech-ca-0330-a1551759.html?hloc=at
may as well be better cooled, suggesions?

So, for 1080p/60, should I get a GTX 1060 6GB or an RX 570 or 580? How do they compare? Which has the better driver situation?

Any nice CPU coolers? Needs to be pretty large, with 2 fan set up, and no taller than 160mm, not have ugly heatpipes stick up (but shielded, like pic related).

Noctua fans are really ugly, so I'd rather not buy those.

Hi there, I have a problem that I don't understand. I currently own GIGABYTE Radeon HD 6970 OC 2GB GV-R6970C-2GD ( overclockers.com.au/article.php?id=950857&P=2 ), And I can't seem to get over 30 fps on World of Warcraft on 4th graphic settings. Is there something going on or is my graphics card to old?

RX 580.

nVidia forces you to create an account/register to be able to use their software, so you have to use older versions of that software.
1060 has less vram, while still being more or less completely on par with RX 580. So, you get less for the money.
AMD comes with freesync, and freesync monitors are like $150-200 cheaper than gsync.

Unless you're very restricted on wattage, or have very expensive electricity, there's no reason to not get RX 580. Power draw is it's main weakness... But it also comes with good powersaving features (radeon chill).

You should either get a 1600 instead of the 1400 or get a 480 instead of the 1070. And definitely try to get better ram, at least 2666, 3000 or 3200 is better.

Ballistix sport LT is super good value, overcocks to 2933/3200mhz, and is dual rank.
Well, I don't think the 4gb sticks are dual rank, but the 8gb ones are.

Ballistix sport LT is usually a good kit, but... That's 2x4gb. I believe 2x4gb is single rank, so you're missing out on the extra bandwidth of double rank.
Get a single 8gb dimm, make sure it's double rank. Laster on, upgrade with a 2nd 8gb dimm, of same brand.

The GPU Clocks also keep jumping up and down. This is when I'm in the world not around other players.

How do you like that cooler?
The only downside from what I read, is that you can't access the first RAM stick without removing the cooler...

If i make a new build today, am i screwing myself by installing windows 7 on it? will future updates for the mobo, gpu, etc stop supporting it? i'd rather not go to windows 10

I am interested in this as well.

>75hz
Why?

if you play new games you should use w10

You can remove just the fan. And how often do you need to remove ram sticks? never?

>tfw just bought a delidding tool and liquid metal TIM

Thanks, Intel, for making me do this.

[spoiler] my motherboard hasn't even arrived, I'm just buying in anticipation, I want to be overclocked to 5.1 for at least 3 years [/spoiler]

nope, you're not screwing yourself, you can upgrade if you really need. But current hardware is already dropping support, requiring workarounds.

>2017
>Full tower
We're moving towards sff, not huge cases.
Full towers were cool like, 10-15 years ago. Now it's all about minimalism, with small and quiet computers.

Ama blow your mind with my next build, but I don't know if I'll show you the build log, because Sup Forums is so bad at behaving.

Need to buy a new AM4 motherboard. Shortlisted options:

> Gigabyte GA-AX370 Gaming 5 - $289AU
> MSI X370 Gaming Carbon - $269AU
> Asus Prime X370-Pro - $228AU
> MSI X370 SLI - $219AU

What's best value at this price point?

did you steal my part pickout?
pcpartpicker.com/list/wmgPD8
back off this is mine

>we
>cool
>minimalism

all this worthless emotional peer pressure language

just shut up moron

>pcpartpicker.com/list/wmgPD8
wow that build is shit

Probably the ASUS because it's cheap but not the cheapest. but I don't actually know. I also like ASUS mobos.

you're shit. it's my special little build and nothing you say can change that

No, that looks shit anyway.
>Not all heatpipes make contact with CPU
>No case
>Single fan when going for a fanless CPU cooler.

You're gonna regret it if you're moving, or want to bring your computer over to a friends, or when if you temporarily "move" somewhere else.

msi sli

pcpartpicker.com/list/RDRCPs

here is a build that isnt complete shit

Will he regret having low and stable temperatures?

don't reply to me or my post ever again

>pentium
shit
>1050ti
shit
>open air case
shit
>le fanless meme
shit
>2133 mhz ddr4 ram
my ddr3 is faster, its shit

Yeah, don't buy any nice furniture, because you might have to move someday

impeccable logic

That's still bad.
1500x gives a way better cooler, which will let you overclock a bit. Getting a dual fan on the RX 570 will make it run much quiter.

Computer is a toy, not a furniture.
Sometimes you bring your toys over to friends, or you want to bring your toy to an already furniture cottage.

With a SSF case, you can always bring your computer with you, anywhere. Have a 22" screen with simple stand mechanic, too, so you can bring a screen with you as well.

>Computer is a toy

And this is why you're a worthless casual.

>fanless meme

Are you literally not playing games or watching shows? What the fuck is the point? Just sitting and looking at a computer that makes no noise other than a storage drive clicking around?

it's like you don't know what the fuck I'm trying to do with this build.

>pentium
because it's a great value and very low TDP

>1050
same, best performance per watt

>open air case
well yea because i want it to be passively cooled

>le fanless meme
I have central ac but my room faces the sun and heats up because of my computer this would help

>ram
yea that was just whatever I would probably refine that before I build this

Ok.

It's a toy, that are sometimes used for work.
Either way, it's something you want to be able to move, take with you, in the case you're temporarily moving location.

it's so obvious you're a clueless pajeet reading off your shill guide. exit the thread peacefully before I do something drastic

Like what? Cut yourself?

i just bought the asus x370-pro. not bad but right now im suffering from serious vrm whine

shank your ass. you will bleed poo

>beliving intel's tdp
it consumes more power than a ryzen quad core

>performance per watt
literal meme that means nothing on desktop

>well yea because i want it to be passively cooled
and collect dust, and not be protected, ant look autistic

its still a shit build

we told you to not buy anus

Better off buying a usb one.

What clock speed of ram is acceptable for R5 1600?

Rate my gaming HDD

slow as fuck, is it a WD

So what are you going to do with it when it's actually built?

You dumb fuck, passive cooling releases just the same amount of heat as anything else it just does it worse. Do you think the heat magically fucking disappears into a different dimension?

Yeah, 10-5 years old, not sure.

Do these fan splitters actually work well? I have 4 case fans but only 3 ports on my motherboard and 2 of them are front intake fans which came with the case. They have some backlight glow to them as well so will that affect how much this splitter can power them?

i built my PC about 4.5 years ago.
yesterday, the monitors just all displayed "no display connected" and turned themselves off. i have tried plugging in the hdmi cable directly to the motherboard and restarting multiple times, but with no luck. i think this is a motherboard issue.

is this something i can fix without buying a new motherboard? is it even a motherboard issue?

so the current model, sad wd is shit

>is this something i can fix without buying a new motherboard? is it even a motherboard issue?


how do you expect any of us to know? if you don't have anyother mobo to test then take it in somewhere and pay for them to do it. your only choices.

Why are you using an old version of CDM?

Why does it matter?

Fucking hell.

Guys.
I'm getting a 1440p 144hz 27" monitor with g-sync. For games/general use.
Viewing angles isn't an issue.
But price is.
And the question is whether I should get the high-quality dell
pcpartpicker.com/product/BcTrxr/dell-monitor-s2716dg
Or a shitty refurbished (equal-price) Acer
pcpartpicker.com/product/ttnG3C/acer-monitor-xb271hubmiprz


Are the darker blacks any good if they're marred by shitty IPS glow & low-QC bleed?


Or fuck it, should I just get some bargain-bin 1080p monitor until OLED becomes affordable?

This isn't how I wanted to spend my 3-day weekend, waffling on my big-ticket purchase.

Asus

But why?

because you won't notice, it's only your autism telling you that you need IPS.

Literally only about price. Get whichever one is on deal and oc the shit out of it. You honestly won't notice a difference between the two in most titles. The software side is also irrelevant too since you more than likely won't be using meme features like Radeon chill or Nvidia gamestream. The only good software feature out of the two companies is Nvidia fast sync which is a godsend for high fps gaming with no extra cost. I game on a 32" t.v. I got like 3 years ago for my Xbox with a gtx 1070 and with fast sync I can have the sick size and picture quality of my tv whilst also playing at over 100 fps with no screentearing. Saves me from having to buy a shitty freesync/gysnc monitor.

That's only my opinion though. Also, OBS > all.

Anyone know why my games keep crashing? I've had a 660 for a few years and been bottlenecked by a G3220. I upgraded to an R5 1600 and my frames are better, but my games crash when settings are too high. In Paragon if texture quality is above medium, then intense situations end in a crash. In DS3, I crash after 5 minutes on most settings other than low.

I use a splitter, it runs them well although at 100% all the time, old mobo with no fan control. I don't know about the LED draw since mine have none.

But the acer is the one that's IPS.

Might be a driver bug. Do a clean install of the latest drivers and try again.

Might also be something related to Windows or ryzen drivers. Check afterburner when after the game crashes and see if there's any oddities in the readings e.g. voltages, cpu speed, utilization, ram clocks. Trying to repair Windows via Windows update in the control panel or simply defragmenting your HDD might help.

Replacing my HDD, leaning towards the HGST Deskstar (seems the most reliable).

I'd go with an SSD, but I like massive amounts of storage.

That said, are hybrid drives any decent? What about a higher RPM HDD? Also, is HGST actually a decent brand or are the Blackblaze tests all bullshit?

Christ I hope I'm not too late. If you can save up, don't get a TN panel. All that shit you've read, if you've done any research on the S2716DG, is absolute bullshit. No, the nvidia control panel settings of +70 contrast -40 gamma or wahtever the fuck they tell you to do will NOT make it look like an IPS panel. What it will do is take the lowest 20 possible black values and reduce it to about four, giving you a horrific banding experience in any dark picture, movies and video games included. If you can't, like you said, spare the expense of an IPS panel then I'd say go with Acer. Can't be any worse than this piece of shit Dell I bought.

What are the chances of a splitter (like the one I included a picture of) causing a short circuit and damaging other components?

Does this seem accurate as far as the dell goes?
youtube.com/watch?v=uU4cvBU9R9E

There's no mention of the GTX 1050 in the OP, which a great price/perf budget 1080p gfx card.

>i7-7700k may have heat issues even at stock clocks
Incorrect. This is just muh housefire memes that retards included in the OP.

>RX570 4GB - 1080p@60+hz
>RX580 8GB - 1440p@60+hz
You can't claim that a 15% more powerful card can run 1440p as good as a 15% less powerful card runs 1080p, retard. Extra VRAM doesn't magically make it 1440p approved.

There are [(1440 x 2560) - (1080 x 1920)] / (1080 x 1920) = 77% more pixels in 1440p

1440p starts with the GTX1070. Get over it, fanboy. When Vega drops the situation might change, but not until then.

>I want to be overclocked to 5.1 for at least 3 years
Just so you know at 5.1 you have pretty little change of keeping it that long and the TIM you're gonna apply won't last more than a year either so you're gonna have to change it thrice or more

I mean the ASUS, my bad, the Acer is still TN I think.

Acer is IPS.
I think Asus was a typo.

We already answered your shit yesterday, you can copy paste it in every new thread as much as you want lad

First time building a PC.

For LANS, photoshop, video editing and gaming. The case is quite small so the parts need to be selected around that. Both are around the $2,200AU mark or $1,500 USD

Be as brutal as you can, its the only way I will learn, thanks


Build one (friend):
>CPU
AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor
>Motherboard
MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard
>Memory
G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
>Storage Crucial
MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
>Storage
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
>Video Card
Asus - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card
>Case
Fractal Design -Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case
>Power Supply
SeaSonic - S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
>Keyboard
Cooler Master - MasterKeys Pro S Wired Standard Keyboard


Alternative (my attempt):

>CPU
Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
> CPU Cooler
Cooler Master - Hyper 212X 82.9 CFM CPU Cooler
>Motherboard
Gigabyte - GA-Z270M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
>Memory
Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
>Storage
Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
>Video Card
Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card
>Case
Fractal Design
Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case
>Power Supply Corsair - CXM 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Can't speak on it beacuse I don't have the Asus/Acer IPS to compare it to, but my grip isn't the colors, it's the black levels. For instance, on this Dell if I get into a black car at night on GTA V there are about three, four bands of distinct colors, all running the gamut from an odd grey, to those weird dark greens/purples you see on compressed images, at play on the car. It's not smooth at all, it's fucked man. I'm a little drunk so I can't put it into words but do not get this monitor, the black levels are trash even for a TN. Do some googling and you'll run across one review that mentions it, only one, and even then in the comments the shills are at work saying "this looks just as good as my acer IPS side to side!" I don't know if they're paid off or if they're brand loyal clowns that never played a game that had a dark fuckign scene in it. Just don't buy this Dell monitor.

Found my game drive was 37% fragmented, so fixing that now. Will try other solutions afterwards.

>liquid metal TIM expiring

user..

The one your friend recommended is almost perfect, that guy knows what he's recommending.
The GPU is definitely overkill for 1080p but there is no flaw / overpriced thing in the build he sent.

Your build though is pretty meh.
7700k for mixed usage is bad compared to the R7 1700, the 1700 beats it by a mile in video encoding / editing & multitasking
A 212 EVO for a 7700k is asking for it to burn, that thing reaches pretty high temperatures.
850 EVO are good but not as coost efficient as Crucial, Sandisk, Kingston and other brands. The MX300 your friend had picked is a better idea, on top of that it has more space.
Seasonic PSUs are generally more reliable than Corsair ones, so your friend also did a good job there.

You should go for your friend's build.

Is this a decent PSU?

it's not about it expiring but rather cracks in it and any over-time degradation

Build one is extremely solid. Only thing I may suggest is dropping the HDD and getting the 525GB MX300 or a 512GB SU800 (they are fucking great when on sale) then getting an HDD later if needed.

Nope, pretty shit. May have been ok 10 years ago.

I mean it's from a junk PC that I got for free. It should be enough to power an SSD, HDD and a