/mkg/ - is it dead?

two times now I come here no /mkg/. I can't be the only one out there wasting money on this shit.

Other urls found in this thread:

github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware
docs.qmk.fm/
aliexpress.com/item/Side-Print-108-ANSI-layout-Thick-PBT-Keycap-1976-Color-matching-For-OEM-Cherry-MX-Switches/32758948813.html
aliexpress.com/item/Cool-Jazz-Black-Gray-mixed-Dolch-Thick-PBT-104-87-68-61-Keycaps-OEM-Profile-Key/32783684013.html
aliexpress.com/item/Cool-Jazz-PBT-112-119-Keyset-hot-sublimation-Cherry-MX-keycap-With-puller-For-87-104/32811882155.html(both
typing-speed-test.aoeu.eu/
m.youtube.com/watch?v=9yg3s77nAMQ&fmt=18&gl=GB&hl=en-GB
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

well here's mine to get this mkg started.

I'm honna build myself a lapboard-style mech kb soon, with a trackball instead of mouse.

Using USB2BT for bluetooth, probably some second hand kensington trackball until I can afford a CST.

Any recommendations for the keyboard? Am currently looking at the mekanisk.co boards.
I need 60% iso or ansi w/ mx clears. Living in EU.

What is the Sup Forumseneral consensious on the Corsair Vengeance K65?

I'm definitely a noob when it comes to mechanical keyboards, but I finally have enough green to treat myself with a ten keyless keyboard less than $100.

The xda is coming today post yours

I guess bragging with our expensive keyboards that we do not need kinda lost its charm.Especially because everyone seems to have same shit so it does not feel as unique.

Our last hope is to turn membrane fags to our side with budget keyboards like Drevo Gramr.

too overpriced for what it offers. get something simple like a leopold, magicforce, or a ducky

>not making your own loli maym board

space cadette

Any grid format alternatives to the OLKB line (Planck) or Unique Keyboards (Terminus)? Any programs to design your layout and program your key layout with special keys? Any full list or all the special key features you can program (macros, momentary, dual-role keys, Fn, .... )?

A small grid keyboard for typing seems ideal for my use case. I may get a Terminus Mini 2 because I like the dual space bars and the programming interface seems a step more convenient. The Planck is better construction but the programming may be too much of a barrier.

Thanks

old thread:

>programming may be too much of a barrier
It's not at all - The available firmware for the teensy has come a long way and is great and super easy.
Most everything you could possible conceive of wanting to do has already been done - You just have to uncomment what you want, maybe change the keymap, and load it.
github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware

>Hyper
>Super
>Meta
>Pointing fingers

It does miss only facebook smiles in upper row.

What is the source on these keycaps?

looks weird without the other legends

what's the cheapest store to order from to Europe/middle east?

chyna

the real one had a thumbs up and thumbs down emoji

what would be a good first mk, I have never used one before. I can pay up to 120$, and I want a 69 key layout so it can fit on my laptop

with that budget you can get a Tada68 with an aluminum case. I'd skip on that and just get a regular Tada68.

You want discussion?

I'm fixing up an old 1978 terminal board I got cheap and getting ready to convert it to modern USB. It's a IBM 3270 clone that was made to work with various mainframes. The government bought a bunch back in the day since they worked with everything and lasted practically forever. The switch is a doublefold capacitive leaf under a plunger and spring. They used to advertise it as the "tactile touch" butterfly in the early 80's. This example I think is the earliest recorded on the modern internet since all advertisements for that switch type are very early 80's and 1977 examples of the same board are foam and foil capacitive.

It uses a 16x8 column/row arrangement so the xwhatsit Model F capacitive sense controller should work with it even though I'll need to manually set the voltage thresholds. Only problem is the original controller is integrated so I've had to desolder all that stuff on the board.

The caps were also pretty yellowed from 40 years of continuous use. I used retrobright and it did the trick but remained a bit splotchy so I've had to individually sand and repolish each key. I'm not even halfway done with that yet. But it is amazing to see that regular green go back to the teal you see in pictures. I thought those pictures just had fucked saturation and contrast like a bunch of 70's magazine pics.

I've gone full meme.

thanks, how are they holding up with use and do they have good compatibility with loonix.
Some of them were getting bricked after a short time

Honestly I'm kind of pissed about the whole mechanical keyboard thing.

I bought a KBParadise V80 with Matias Quiet Click switches from MechanicalKeyboards.com a few months back.

There were like 5 switches that had serious chatter issues and gave me a ton of repeated characters while typing.

I ended up having to send the keyboard back to them at my expense ($20 with insurance). FOUR FUCKING WEEKS later I hadn't heard anything, so I emailed them for a status update and they replied (I'll paraphrase) "Oh, uhh, hey it just happens to be the next one in the queue!". Another week later it finally shipped out. I got it back, hooked it back up, and while all the keys that were having chatter issues before are fine now, there's a DIFFERENT key having the same fucking problem.

Their customer service was so shit that I don't even want to deal with sending it in again, especially if it's going to add another $20 to an already overpriced keyboard.

I was about to order from them, but they take 50$ for shipping internationally, fuck that

I just sent them a three paragraph rant about how they're absolute shit unless they fix my fucking problem conveniently and expediently with no additional cost to me.

Seriously, it's out of control at this point. I pre-ordered an out of stock product about 5 months out from the expected shipment date. The product actually was delivered right when they said it would be originally. After using it for a few days though, there were 4-5 keys that were malfunctioning. I emailed their customer service about it at the time and they asked if I wanted to RMA. Some of them seemed to be getting better, so I figured it might just be a break-in period thing. I gave it a few weeks and the problem didn't go away, so I emailed them requesting an RMA and was informed shipping it back would be at my own expense.

So, to be fair that is stated in the policy on their website so I didn't bitch and just packaged it up and paid to send it in. The policy said allow up to four weeks, but the rep that emailed me said "we should have it done well before then.

Four and a half weeks later I hadn't heard a word so I emailed back, which apparently made them dig it out of the bin or something and actually "fix" it. Well I got it back a week and a half after that and it's malfunctioning on a different fucking key now, so I'm pretty pissed.

They'd better offer to replace it free of charge, sending me a new unit (TESTED) and a shipping label to return the defective one, come suck my dick, or send me a free dragon dildo or fleshlight or something.

post this on leddit, and their social media account, these days companies don't give a fuck unless they get called out on their bullshit practices in public.

I was waiting to start posting shit reviews all over the internet until they actually try to fuck me. I try not to be the "social media terrorist", because as someone who has worked in marketing I know how much of a pain in the ass snowflakes who go and start posting one star reviews because they didn't like the hair color of one of your employees can be.

That said, if they don't come back with a really good response this time I'm going to hit all the major mechanical keyboard forums, subreddits, and review sites with screenshots of my email chain and descriptions of my experience until they come begging to tickle my prostate.

I've been really, really patient and reasonable with these people.

>list or all the special keys you can program (macros, momentary, dual-role keys, Fn, .... )?
Hmmm, bump for interest.

key chatter is a firmware problem, which KBP has plenty of problems with. You can find threads on geekhack going back a couple years with claims of updates that fix the problems.

it's all pretty well documented here docs.qmk.fm/

A firmware problem that causes seemingly random chatter on the same 4-5 keys, then after sending it in for repair has chatter on a different key?

I'm a little lost as to how firmware could be the root of the problem here.

Each key has different debounce times, and it is up to the firmware to correct them. Some keyboards like the choc mini have hardware controls that let you control those timings. This is because certain manufactures like KBP lubes the switches to make them smoother and the grease can effect the chatter. My guess is that's what mechanicalkeyboards did.

I've got one on reds for almost 2 years now since I used to be a gaymur and I must say that it is in fact a great keyboard and didn't have a single problem with it but still, too expensive probably.

The bingbongs sold it to me without keycap remover.

Don't buy from bingbongs.

Would go with K70 now

They have no firmware updates on their website and I can't find anything newer than 2015 for the V80 on their Facebook.

I don't have one, but some people say that using the new v60 firmware fixes the problems, as well as opening up the switches and cleaning any excess grease

>convert it to USB

Is that a real thing? I have a Wyse terminal board that I'd really love to convert to usb rather than salvaging the switches like I had planned when I got it.

I want to buy all 4 of these keycap sets because I waste money and go hungry sometimes

I currently have a CM QFR(costar stabilizers), a Ducky Shine 5(cherry stabilizers) and am looking at getting a James Donkey 619(doesn't say what kind of stabilizers it uses on the amazon page)

I don't know what's compatible with what, because the product page on all these cap sets doesn't say specifically what kind of stabilizers these are meant to go on, it just says

>Some Costar stabilizer keyboard whose spacebar may be clicky for thick caps.You can adjust the wire or cut the edges of inner spacebar.This is a easy problem.If you have met this problem,just leave us message.We will help you solve it.

and I have no idea what that means.


aliexpress.com/item/Side-Print-108-ANSI-layout-Thick-PBT-Keycap-1976-Color-matching-For-OEM-Cherry-MX-Switches/32758948813.html
aliexpress.com/item/Cool-Jazz-Black-Gray-mixed-Dolch-Thick-PBT-104-87-68-61-Keycaps-OEM-Profile-Key/32783684013.html
aliexpress.com/item/Cool-Jazz-PBT-112-119-Keyset-hot-sublimation-Cherry-MX-keycap-With-puller-For-87-104/32811882155.html(both jukebox and carbon)

>$130 keyboard.
>Requires me to track down firmware because the manufacturers site is shit.
>For a different model of keyboard.
>On the word of people on the internet that "totally werks dude".
>Disassemble brand new switches to remove grease.

Jesus fuck why is this acceptable? I've literally never experienced a malfunction with a $10 keyboard in decades.

Yeah. Any old capacitive keyboard if it has enough rows/columns for a model F 16x8 or a beamspring 24x4? converter can get running again.

With contact switches, you just need some diodes and a teensy. It's stuff like hall effect that's a lot more complicated.

Anyone had issues with DSA spacebars sticking with Cherry stabilizers? They feel really mushy. No problems with any of the other keys apart from the spacebar. Searched around a bit and it seems to be a relatively common problem with DSA profile keycaps, but I don't quite know how to fix it. Seems like I can sand/file some of it to solve it, but I'm not quite sure where I need to sand.

Had a friend bring me a KPB Matias board to look at with chatter issues. The build quality is just dogshit as far as the solder work goes. Pins look like they'd been bent and rebent as well so many of the switches had been forced at least once. The thing about simplified Alps style switches is that they have flat pins and are sensitive to misalignment of the switch plates during board assembly. The Matias switches are actually put together better than the black simplified genuine Alps in my Dell bigfoots, which don't chatter at all. But that doesn't matter much if you let a ham handed shitter assemble your board.

Well they've now offered to send me a prepaid shipping label and refund the price of the keyboard once they receive it back in "like-new condition". I'm not even sure if I deal with it though, considering how they've been so far. There's a small bit of shine on the cheap plastic of the case right below the spacebar just from the maybe one month total of actual use I've gotten out of it, even though all the keys look perfect still. There's no way they could sell this thing as new so I'm afraid they'll try to jew me and I'll still be out $20 for the original return shipping.

Besides, there's not many options to replace it with. I got an expensive ass aluminum case for it so it would sit right on my desk and so I'm locked in to a handful of TKL models that will fit it. On top of that, there aren't nearly enough tactile switch options in that format.

What do you guys think, deal with MKBs bullshit again or just cut my losses and try to repair the single chattering key issue myself?

How do I push my typing speed to the next level, /mkg/? I usually get around 98 WPM on typing-speed-test.aoeu.eu/ if I'm focused, but I think my average speed is closer to something like 92. I've only ever broken 100 WPM once. Does anybody who consistently breaks 100 WPM have some good tips for practice? Oddly, I usually type faster with MX blacks than on buckling springs, so maybe I'm doing something wrong and not paying attention to feedback.

Just buy a few switches and solder them in yourself. Fix the issue in like ten minutes instead of all this silly runaround crap. That would have cost you less than the return shipping you did in the first place.

Looks like I'm pretty consistently around 89-91 on my shitty keyboard at work. It's been years since I really tested much but I remember the last time I did a few tests being firmly in the 75-85 range. So I guess I've improved some. I'll have to try again at home to see if I do any better on my mechanical.

Honestly, I'm perfectly content with that speed and see no reason to go out of my way to push above that. I've got pretty stumpy fingers, so if my speed improves over time that's great, but my current speed is certainly no handicap.

I guess that's what I need to do at this point. What a pain in the ass.

Looking to buy a mechanical keyboard, I'm looking at the corsair 70 rgb lux. Is it a good keyboard?

I think it look ugly, and as far as keyboards go there are better options.

what else would you suggest?
money isn't really an issue although i wouldn't mind saving a few dollars. Want something that looks nice and has blue switches

>tfw sold my ssk

how mush did the sucker pay for it?

I'd go for something like a leopold fc980m since its got a numpad while still having the same length as a TKL. Other options would be a ducky TKL since those have hardware features like programmable media keys and macros, or maybe get an 80% keyboard like the magicforce 82 since those are even more compact then a TKL

£200 + postage, less than what i did, but oh well

Wait you paid more for it? Was it bolt modded?

nope, springs were replaced though, and i was slightly suckered in by the absurd prices some others were selling them for

in the end i decided i liked my full size m more tho

Redragon K552 KUMARA. Price is $33. Worth it?

I was lucky and got both a full size model m and an ssk for 80 bucks. The seller didn't know what he had since you can get full size model ms for 50 bucks. He thought they were worth the same, so I offered him 40 bucks for each one.

nice

Which one do I get /mkg/? SA carbon or DSA carbon? I want GMK carbon, but its ABS plastic. I know SA carbon is also ABS, but I don't mind the shine since I think it adds to it. I've never used ABS caps before since my old rubber dome had pad printed PBT

I use DSA in my everyday board, but I think SA is cooler for the 70's terminal feel.

its only $60
is there a specific one you would recommend less than $100?

all those except the leopold are under $100. If you want really cheap then get a tomoko for 30 bucks on amazon since that has similar build quality to the corsair keyboard.

thanks

...

Name a better production switch than Gateron blacks oh wait you can't

Cherry has new smooth molds now. Gateron on suicide watch.

Do Topres get any better, or did I get memed?

First mechanical keyboard recommendation? I have never used one before but I like the idea.

Shame the molds have sucked ass for so long and they only made new ones cuz gateron improved on their design so much.

topres are up there on the meme ladder, but I say just keep climbing up to the higher meme rungs

just get a cheap one for like 20 bucks. If you like it then get a better one.

Yes. 33 is the magic number. Noagendashow.com

I actually bought one on sale for $60. I've been pretty happy with it. I have owned blue switches and browns. Red's are honestly the best for me typing and gaming. I'd recommend it if you are willing to spend $60 for it.

Blue switches are loud, also tomoko key caps get dirty pretty quickly I'd recommend getting custom keycaps or something.

What else is out there? I already have a Unicomp buckling springs and tried Cherry MX Blues, Browns and Reds.

Alps/Matias

Are there any cheap chink keyboards with Kailh Copper switches or with similar shorter travel tactile switches? Preferably TKL.

So now instead of paying twice as much for a worse switch, you're paying twice as much for an equal switch, hmmmmmm ok

How high up do you want to go? This high?
m.youtube.com/watch?v=9yg3s77nAMQ&fmt=18&gl=GB&hl=en-GB

Alps have a higher actuation point then normal cherries at around 1.3-1.5 mm. To be honest tho it doesn't really matter since you bottom out the switches anyway, and reset times are the same.

I have O rings on my Kailh browns but they still feel a bit too deep for rhythm games and typing /fast/.

The TADA68 is still a solid choice for first-time buyer, right?
Or, is there any 68% board + the Function key row?

Apart from Logitech K800, can anyone recommend good scissor switch keyboards? Preferably full size?

Or should I just go for a Chinese board with gateron browns and origns?

This post feels like going into a sport car enthusiast club and asking which Toyota to get.

How do I into mkb without spending over $100 (want more like $50) and not being disappointed with trash?
I like the numpad, too.

Magicforce 68 (no led) can be had for 40 bucks, probably as low as you can get (unknown Chinese boards aside).

No numpad tho, bummer.

What about the logitech G610? It's a little more expensive. How do I tell a good board?

Isn't that one like 80-100 bucks?
Logitech is generally not looked upon fondly in these parts, but it's not all shit either.
Sometimes, nice things are just that expensive to make, man.

Yeah it's $75 on amazon.

I think I'll just take that other user's advice and buy a cheap one first and get a more expensive one later. Maybe what suggested.

Why are Gateron red keyboards so hard to come across for a reasonable price?
I live with roommates and the blues are a tad noisy at night, so I want to get something a tad quieter for some late night funposting.
For the Qisan/Magicforce board, that's $60-$70. Considering you can get keyboards with gateron blues for half that, that sounds horridly overpriced for even the switch brand.
I've yet to hear much on James Donkey keyboards, so they don't have my interest.
Monoprice has one in a realistic price range, but the layout kills me and the font is horrid. Couple with the lack of caps because of the layout and that's deal breaker.

Any chinese boards that offer 98 keys. I basically want something affordable that is in between a TKL and full size. The CM Masterkeys Pro M is out my budget atm.

the VA68M is slightly larger, but I personally think it's way more aesthetic and more usable arrow keys. Not fully programmable though, which can be a pita.

reds for fps?

Most people here type even slower than that. All this autism about switches is mostly about "comfort" which is what these snails think they need, while their real problem is that they simply suck at typing.

If you bottom out, it doesn't really matter which keyboard you are using. Might as well use a rubber dome. The less travel time and force necessary, the more room you've got for improvement. You'll have people claiming otherwise, but "oddly" enough, they're always slow typers. You want your fingers to do as little work as possible. It's a lot like playing guitar - you don't want to choke those frets like your mom's dick, just touch them as lightly as possible.

Buckling springs won't make you better at typing. Personally, I don't even like them, kind of weird and stiff.

There's always the Anne Pro, but it's a meme keeblet for redditors and sock wearers.

Yes.

>tfw waiting for Hana DSA
>meme keeblet for redditors and sock wearers.
Can you explain ? It looks like a good and cheap alternative to a pok3r RGB.

Regular 60% are extremely homosexual, the HHKB is the compact keyboard for serious professionals

basically, if a retard can't explain something without sperging, it's >>>/reddit/

So now that I have a keyboard I'm supposed to spend money on meme caps, right?