/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Post your component list; rate other anons'; ask questions in general.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons & compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com/

THEN state the PURPOSE of your PC & BUDGET. State COUNTRY if not USA.
List GAMES/SOFTWARE you use often. List resolution & hz if gaming.
Seeking build improvements? Clarify goal: lower price or improved specs?
ctrl+f to see if your question was answered already

>How to assemble a PC, select components & more. (somewhat outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

CPUs:
>G4560 - budget builds (R5 1500x - generally all you need for 60fps with power to spare. No i5
>R5 1600 - best value for higher fps gaming & mixed usage; 1600x if you too lazy to OC
>i7-7700k - bad value but good for higher FPS; may have heat issues
>R7/Xeon/Threadripper/i9 - compute/Multitask/mixed use

Graphics:
>G4560 iGPU is fine for desktop stuff and very light game
>1050Ti for low budget. Drop settings if not Freesync/Gsync on newer games; RX560 if discounted RX570 4GB - 1080p@60+hz, running most maxed; older games at 144+hz
>RX580 8GB - 1440p@60+hz, inject SMAA & drop settings
>1060 - Generally outperformed by the RX 580 and GSync costs more; consider if AMD is not an option (ie CUDA/miners buying all RX570s)
>1070 - if on heavy sale-ish
>1080 - 1080p@100-144+hz maxed; 1440p at lower hz.
>1080Ti - 1440p@90-144+hz; 4k@60hz in SOME games, more at lower settings
>Freesync2 & Vega soon

General:
>READ PRODUCT REVIEWS to see if that cheap SSD/PSU or whatever is reliable
>Consider larger SSD-only for what you budget SSD+HDD combined. Add HDD later once needed
>NVMe aren't for faster OS boot. They're primarily for productivity/scratch disk/VMs
>Stop confusing any M.2 drive with NVMe. M.2 is a form factor
>mATX board + case is often cheaper
>1 SR DIMM is slower than 2 DIMMs

Other urls found in this thread:

microsoft.com/en-ca/accessibility/windows10upgrade
youtube.com/watch?v=TWFzWRoVNnE
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130790&cm_re=970_am3+-_-13-130-790-_-Product
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157688&cm_re=970_am3+-_-13-157-688-_-Product
lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/pc-q26/
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132963
pcpartpicker.com/list/w3ZdTH
twitter.com/AnonBabble

First for Jew Miners causing a shortage of 580s

Does it matter which brand/model of 1050ti I buy? Are there any recommendations or should I just grab the cheapest one? I mostly want it to be quiet and cool.

Second for one of them jews and enjoying my money and your suffering

Just buy cheapest when one is on sale for a sane price. $135 is not a sane price. Sometimes you see them for $100-$115.

4gb
>I mostly want it to be quiet and cool.
I can barely hear my OC'd 1060 at 98% fanspeed. Over my other case fans.

Aesthetics is the most important. Buy the one which matches your Mobo color

I know you think you're being funny. But it's a 1050 ti, so you're not in the wrong at all.
Don't worry about clocks speeds either. Go to youtube and search for Jaz2cents GPU overclocking vid.
All you need to do is download a program and play with slider bars. No going into BIOS at all. All done from windows.

>I know you think you're being funny.
Implying. I bought MSI cause they were the only ones who had red coolers on their graphic cards.

>caring about colours and LEDs in your PC
Underages need to fucking leave and stay leave.

Red makes your PC go faster.
Green makes your PC energy efficient.
Blue makes your PC cooler.
Yellow is dangerous so don't fuck with that.

Someone post that infograph before morons like this user gets hurt.

Thanks!

Oh. Get one that requires a power plug. They overclock.

>His GPU doesn't run on passive power
Get a load of this moron.

>not placing a pyramid made of copper and quartz under your GPU
>not only does it stop card sag, it powers it too

What about purple leds?

Banned by Mike "Electric Fence" Pence

Gives your computer the aids virus.

Looking into some of the lower priced motherboards. What exactly is the difference between the ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard and the MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard? They're similar in price.

Pro4 has better VRMs and... can't you use your eyes to see that the PCI slots are different? Or compare their specs? Newegg has a tool built in to compare specs iirc.

The Asrock one looks better in every respect. Better power delivery, more RAM slots, an extra M.2, more fan headers, better connectivity etc. If they really are closely priced, the choice is obvious.

How dubious are those Windows 10 keys I see going to under $10 from sites like ebay and psngames.org? They claim to be legit by saying stuff like they come with a broken motherboard or laptop for local pickup, but will email you the windows key.

Wanna jump on the ryzen hype thread and am looking on the 1700/1700X.
Is there a reason the X version is so behind in sales?
It's just 20€ more here, but I'm seeing it mostly more successful at reaching the infamous 4.0.

Also is it even smart to buy ram now, with the absurd prices and rumors of ddr5 around the corner?

How much better would getting a 6-core AM4 to replace my 6-core AM3+ be than just keeping my current mobo and getting the 8-core AM3+

I supsect they're from farms of Bizspark accounts. The keys can get revoked pretty easily when Microsoft catches them.

How are these codes different from the ones on Kinguin that go for around $25?

I have a really tight budget after I bought a new graphics card for an old i3 530 pc I wanted to revive and I don't have any money for a hard drive now.
S-should I even c-consider buying a small (around 250gb ) used one?
I will check for bad sectors and anything before.

Practically the same shit. Keep in mind these keys aren't actually for resale or personal use, no matter what the seller says. They're for startups.

That's pretty tight. But shouldn't be much issue if it's just to get it running till X point in time. Still try for a new one. Seagate is pretty cheep.

Why does my ryzen 5 1600 runs 3.4 GHz on all cores when I stress it? Shouldn't it run 3.2 GHz? It's not OCed.

If you buy off of ebay it's fairly safe. eBay always sides with the buyer in disputes, so if it's a brick you'll get most of your money back. You will have to pay to ship it back though I think. I sold an old CPU that the buyer I guess thought was a different one and had to accept the return.

Turbo frequency?

I think I'm going to take the chance and buy one. Worse comes to worse I'm out $5. I'll be happy if it works until I have more money for a legit key.

I thought that boost applies only to one core?

1600 is 3.2 to 3.6 boost

Yeah it wasn't any better even before buying the GPU. Being a poorfag is hard.
I was actually thinking about buying it locally because this way I could check it before.
Would eBay be even a better choice?

>tfw ordered all remaining parts this morning

I'm excited, first time builder.

you're going to make the CPU fall and it will break in two

Depends. Don't know how long you could return it for, but it would be a better option if you were worried it would crap out after a bit. I think maybe your idea of getting locally might be better as long as you get the chance to run HDtune or something before buying. Some sellers might refuse to let you into their house though to test it in case you might want to rape their dog or steal something.

You've been buying intel for far too long.

It's something like 3.2 base, 3.4 all cores, 3.6 max boost on a single core. Turbo fluctuates.

They CAN be legit.
However they can also be deactivated by the seller and resold.
I prefer getting off Kinguin or something, which is like $30 with purchase protection, because you can get your money back if they do that.
But.. ebay from a reputable seller tends to be fine, too. I think they're around $12 there.

The all-core turbo is a bit higher than the base. It's just not as high as the 2-core one.
I think the 1600X and 1800X actually run at 3.7 or 3.75 all-core when stressed and not the 3.6 base.

They will also drop down to 2.2GHz if near a complete idle.

3.6 is on 2 cores and really it goes up to 3.7 because XFR.. really shitty marketing not advertising the XFR max speeds. I really have no fucking clue what AMD marketing is doing most of the time.

>ordering all at once
Literal worst meme ever.
You can save like over 25% off the total build cost by waiting for limited flash sales for each part, compared to buying them all at once.

I saved 20 bucks on the gpu, 20 bucks on the ssd and 15 more on the cpu. I'm fine, thanks. I bought all these parts before on sale.

I've only been looking into this for a few hours, but I was thinking of installing windows 7 and registering it using Daz Loader. After that I would upgrade to Windows 10 with the link below.

microsoft.com/en-ca/accessibility/windows10upgrade

Has anyone had any issues with using a pirated windows 7 to upgrade to 10 and had their licenses revoke?

Not him, but I've largely been stuck between the ASRock and the MSI motherboard for my Ryzen build.
I've heard that the ASRock supports only up to 2600MHz RAM while the MSI supports higher, should that really make a difference in my intended use for it (gaming, productivity, workstation)?

from specs:
>Supports DDR4 3200+ (OC) (Ryzen CPU) / 2400 (A-series APU)

/pcbg/ thoughts on the Intel Core i7-7800X and Core i7-7820X?

Buying from Kinguin lets you get protection and other bullshit to protect yourself incase the key gets revoked. But with 5 dollar keys, you have to be revoked 5 fucking times before you break even.

Looks like I was braindead, thanks.
Also would the AIO I'm planning to buy (Corsair H100i v2) work with the ASRock, and if it needs a special adapter, where can I get it?

If the motherboards aren't priced autistically, and they without a doubt will, it could be good
i'm pretty worried about the jizz & under the IHS and power consumption though.

Moving from [email protected] to r5 1600, while keeping my old r9 290, will I feel the difference?

>heroes of the storm
>Red Orchestra 2
>War Thunder
>Path of Exile

AMD is the flavor of the year, just buy AMD until Intel gets its shit together, which will be soon, Intel never lagged behind for long.

So if it is good AMD is fucked once again and relegated to the midrange CPU range once more?

My mom runs a business and currently uses an old shitty laptop for her accounting software. It's been fucked for awhile, but now the monitor and presumably the hard drives are starting to go. Any suggestions for a new laptop to fit her needs for $500 CAD or less? would be nice to have a warranty since most of her shit tends to break.

It's not good.

This whole situation reminds me of what AMD was trying to do with fx-9xxx.
With recommended water cooling and pushing the arch to the limit, it's just shameful.
But like I said intel will bounce back they always do.
I mean if AMD could bounce back from FX disaster, anyone can.

forgot two comas, whatever...

Threadripper will shit all over the 10+ cores i9 because of much lower power consumption, heat output, much more PCIe lanes
The 7820x will shit over ryzen most likely thanks to quad channel & arch improvemet over 6900k (broadwell e - skylake + higher frequencies), but it too will heat a lot; isn't very power efficient and most importantly, the threadripper 10 core will compete with it at a lower heat output and at most likely equal power consumption. Remember that the 1800x is priced at $470 and the 7820x at $600: AMD isn't going to leave such a gap in there when even at $650 a 10 cores threadripper would be very very competitive to the 7820x as it obviously will perform better.

I can't see any of these CPU being price worthy. They'll heat a lot just like Kaby Lake, they'll use more power, and they'll cost much more. It also hurts their reputation a lot because everyone realised they've been ripping off consumers for years, everyone is realising how rushed this shit is, everyone is worried about the 7700k heat issues being ported to 6+ cores CPU, everyone is pissed off by Intel forcing you to pay a premium to unlock features already in your CPU (usb dongles for raids), and fuck these 12+ cores i9 aren't coming out until next year

it's shit

inb4 intel spends 300 more millions into diversity

A nice sturdy lenovo (new wave thinkpad). Try for something with an i5 at least.
They're sturdy, and aren't of a 'dated' design.

please answer this question

I bought Intel this gen and yet I can tell you those i9 and shits are total crap. Forget about them. I hope they crash hard.

Inb4 Linus but if you have 15min to spend watch this :
youtube.com/watch?v=TWFzWRoVNnE

7700k?
I fucked up and got impatient and got the 7700 instead of saving for another month. It isn't half bad I guess.

I don't know about Red Orchestra 2, but you won't see a huge difference in the rest.

>Intel never lagged behind for long.
They lagged behind for 8 years straight.
That was longer than AMD lagged behind with Bulldozer up until Ryzen (6 years)

Yeah 7700k. I initially hesitated a lot between the 7700 and 7700k because I have no need for overclocking (and to be honest no one really should either, that thing already does everything you want at 4.4Ghz on all cores) and ended up picking the k version for both the higher clock speed and the fact that Intel's stock cooler is the worst shit ever. So if I anyway had to buy a new cooler the choice was really obvious to me. I'm not trying to make you feel bad about your buy or anything, just speaking frankly. You still have 4Ghz on 4 cores and 4.2Ghz for single core needs so it's still pretty much the same for now.

What are your daily temps?
Here : 38°C idle, between 50°C and 65°C when gaming, rare random spikes at 70+°C. Max temps I got out of it when stress testing it hard were 75°C. I'm at 1.164v (true value after droop, not the one set in the Bios) and I'm still lowering it every couple days trying to find a sweet spot.

Intel are fucking jews and I wish I could've went Ryzen to support AMD but the 7700k just fulfilled my needs better (emulation), especially when at the time Ryzen was still very new and unknown to everyone. For sure if things continue that way I'll go AMD next time I need to upgrade though.

Yes.
Those are close to single threaded, and the single threaded performance on Ryzen is like 30-50% higher.

I play HotS and PoE and got a huge improvement going from an i5-2500k, which is better than your FX CPU, to a 1600X. I saw a big improvement, though part of that was getting an SSD as well and the faster RAM.

I live on the equator so I reasoned that I shouldn't get the 7700k since overclocking meant that I had to invest in a really good cooler. On hindsight I should have saved the money to get the 7700k.

My daily temps are insane btw. 7700 idles at around 45°C and hits low 70°C. (Stock cooler FTW) For comparison my Asus 1080ti Strix idles at 50°C.

I got intel for the same reason you did. Better emulation. Maybe I should have waited for Ryzen or saved for the 7700k. Feels bad man. I can't even upgrade to a k cause i saved money on the mobo as well.

>Those are close to single threaded,
what
did you not get the 52% IPC improvement memo?

me : You should try to undervolt and find a sweet spot too if you haven't already. People complaining about the 7700k getting too hot are in my opinion for the most part retards who left the voltage at 1.3v in the bios. Don't get me wrong, the spikes ARE dumb, but letting your vcore at a stupid voltage especially on stock clocks is even more dumb.

>tfw Ryzen with a 140W TDP air cooler
>1.10625V
>8C above ambient when idle (31C)
>17C above ambient in normal gaming load and such (40C)
>48C at 100% load on all 12 threads, stress testing it. 140mm fan on the cooler doesn't go over 10% fan speed.
I don't know how people find 70C+ acceptible. Yes, the silicon can handle it, but it's not comfy at all.
The 7700k performs well in lightly threaded applications, but not well enough to justify putting out 50% more heat.
It's not 50% faster so it shouldn't run 50% hotter.

Hey I asked this question in another thread too but I forgot what was answered.
I will write it down this time.

My sister gave me her old computer because she got a new one, I want to use this computer because it's a lot better than mine but she isn't very careful when it comes to computers.

She has tons of virusses on it because of things she downloads and just not being careful on the internet in general.

What can I do to clean this pc completely, restore it to a state as if it were completely new fresh from the factory?

Would it be best to buy a new Motherboard / HDD (I will probably go with SSD then because it's faster) / RAM or anything else?

Sorry for my stupid question, I hope someone can help though, I don't really know that well what damage could be done to a computer this way.

Additional infromation;
She used a pirated version of Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit (Activated with some dodgey activator, I'm not sure if it was Daz but it surely wasn't from the mydigitallife official forums)

She pirated a lot, never used any virus scanners besides Microsoft Security Essentials (which was disabled for most of it's tasks)

She downloaded all kind of weird programs on the computer and ran them, never bothered to delete them properly

She deleted registery files without exactly knowing what effect it would have ''because a friend of her told her to do so'', surprisingly though, it still runs more or less.
(She complained about some bugs and blue screens happening though)

Any help would be appreciated, I plan on installing Windows 10 Home 64bit from USB-stick (purchased, legit version) on this but I don't want to run into any bugs or glitches or issues later on.

Please help.

52% IPC increase is an average, and Bulldozer clocks higher, you retard.
30-50% PERFORMANCE increase is accurate.

what's your cooler user?

Ditch the HDD like hot garbage. The rest should be fine. Or just format the HDD and it should be fine as well.

-> try that When you undervolt go easy. Lower it by 0.05 by 0.05, not more. Always test stability whenever you reduce your voltage. You'll see your temps getting better surely.
Install HWiNFO64 for temps; VID voltage values are not real values, it's only what your CPU thinks it needs, if you want to see the real voltage your mobo is delivering to your CPU scroll down until you see the "Vcore" value. Check it and tell me what's yours.

>I can't even upgrade to a k cause i saved money on the mobo as well.
Well the k still works on B250s, you just can't OC it. Still wouldn't be smart to sell your CPU to buy a k just to get a few hundreds mhz. As long as your CPU does everything you need it to do on a daily basis just be happy. I'm pretty autistic myself and it's true seeing all these numbers and stuff makes me want to spend more money to get the "perfect rig" until I remember it's all a trap and doesn't matter. Before that 7700k I spent 5 years on an Athlon X2 because I was a poorfag and I still managed to make the best out of it anyway.

I can confirm it is not comfy. I've had my PC for 2 months or so now and I still check temps daily. Still I comfort myself in the thought that 65-70 average will not reduce the lifespan of my CPU.

any good retailers to look at? I'm in canada obviously. I only know newegg and amazon, and I guess lenovo's site maybe?

Just format the drives, install win 10 and that's it.

Hi there, thank you very much.
Just formatting should be fine?
I take it I would still be at risk a little knowing that files are not exactly deleted but instead ''hidden'' and ready to be overwritten on the HDD after formatting right?
Would you say it's worth dropping 100,- for a ''cheap'' SSD for now to eliminate the risk? (OCZ 240GB)

reddit formatting is probably why it was ignored
and tl;dr

Cryorig C1.
(to be fair 10% speed fan is still 1090rpm. It goes like 1038-1400 and never goes above 1100. So okay like 20% along that range. But it's super silent at that low speed)
I want to eventually replace the fan with a thicker one that I can run at 600rpm or less. It comes stock with a low profile one that could be quieter, though my case muffles it well and it's near completely silent and I'm just being autistic about it.

Nah. CPU idling at close to 50°C is normal here in my country. FYI the daily average temperate here is 26°C to 32°C. Every. Fucking. Day. My last CPU idled at 55°C and it still lasted me for years before i replaced it. I used to own a 290x which idled at 55. It was like a heater by my legs.

Hello thank you too.
Would that be enough, really?
That'd save me some money again, but I have no problem with dropping money when it'd mean I'm completely safe.
Do I format these drives during the Windows 10 install or before on a clean machine or doesn't it matter?

30 - 50% isn't close by any mean
you mean person

Reddit formatting?
I also got answers, I just forgot what they were.

>Just formatting should be fine?
Just nuke it. Everything would be gone.

Yes. If you can afford an SSD get one. The difference is night and day.

That was me. You want something with a VRM heatsink.
Also get a SSD. PNY/Kingston UV400's are cheap.

The board you selected yesterday was one of the Few that are really only for the FX6XXX chips. You would have blew the VRM's.

Board I have
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130790&cm_re=970_am3+-_-13-130-790-_-Product

Board that's cheap and does great
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157688&cm_re=970_am3+-_-13-157-688-_-Product

Yes. Formatting the drive wipes the entire drive clean.

>Do I format these drives during the Windows 10 install or before on a clean machine or doesn't it matter?
Google how to do a clean format and installation. That should suffice.

I know how to do a clean format but not the best moment to do so.
Before installing W10 or during installing W10?
Thank you

During should be fine. But to be safe, do it from boot using a USB drive to install W10.

Return key (enter) abuse.
You were fine yesterday.
Reformat and reinstall the OS. Virus problem gone.
For Win 7 you can turn off all the annoyance measures. So you don't need a key.
Should be no custom wallpaper, a popup forcing the taskbar to the surface, and begging for updates. Just youtube how to turn those off when they start to happen. Usually 30 days.
>security updates
I've not had a problem in years.

Does anyone know where I can find a Lian Li PC-Q26A/B for sale in North America? Sold out everywhere I've looked and only European sellers seem to have them.

lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/pc-q26/

What do you think?

Hi guys, I'm from South Africa and I'm looking at buying myself a nice little top end rig.
The one online retailer I'm looking at stocks only two brands of graphics cars: - Galax and Zotac. Are they decent brands or should I look elsewhere ?

Have you consulted a shaman?

What's the best out of the box working RAM I can pair with this mobo?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132963

I have a Ryzen 1700 coming later today and I want to check which of the RAM which one will boost the performance on my CPU, I've heard 3200 is the sweetspot but some don't go to the right frequency out of the box like others?

>Are they decent brands
Yes

>7700K
>H270
This isn't the rice fields, Lingling. Better go back to farming.

That's a 1080Ti? I thought shrouds that ugly died a few years ago, man.

But yes, Galax and Zotac are very solid.

/pcbg/ is not here to check the QVL for you.

I'm asking for opinions to see if anyone else here has this mobo and which ram they have..?
If you don't want to help, then don't say, you don't need to go off talking blah blah, this is PCBG general, everyone is free to ask for advice or help.

pcpartpicker.com/list/w3ZdTH
For gaming and some music production. Will I be able to play AAA titles with this? Don't mind turning the quality down. Could I get by with a 1050 ti or RX460 on medium settings and save some $$?

Already got the PSU for $50.

Thanks !

I was also wondering . Is something like Pic Related good enough to cool a Ryzen 7 1800X or will I have to go water cooled ?
I was kind of hoping to get a Noctua NH-D15S but unfortyunately I can't seem to get it anywhere in South Africa.