Post your guts!
Cooling upgrade edition.
Official Guts thread
And here is before
very good cooler
Took me 2 hours to mount it properly
Remove old cooler and clean old pasta with alcohol - 2minutes
-Screw the backplate- 30seconds
-fit cooler on all 4 screws,hold the screws also hold the cooler and screw driver all at once without removing motherboard from pc case 1hour 58minutes 30seconds
I get what reviewers ment by painful installation now.
At least the temperatures droped.
Cable managed and cleaned today
Yeah, i like the stupid leds.
I like your coolers.
Nice Air 240.
Guys mine isn't starting up, first build help pls
Buying an X62
better radiator and not retarded pump
can't tell if srerious
Cables obviously lead somewhere, so PSU is just invisible on pic.
weird my R1 Ultimate only took 10 minutes to install
Yes serious, I can't get it on
replaced the stock h60 fan with an arctic f12 pwm
you need to connect restart,shut down and other buttons to mb,then turn on power supply and electricity.
Very common mistake:Not enought motherboard connections used/wrong ram slots used.
>arctic f12 pwm
It is not even expensive fan,i might consider it , is it more silent?
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>you need to connect restart,shut down and other buttons to mb
Obviously from the pic power on/off is and PSU is connected. Else only PSU is connected and he shorted the switch but I doubt it.
Anyway you only need to connect one button from the front panel/short it with a screwdriver. Are you so retarded you really yhink your PC won't work without HDD LED?
It's rest time turning on , all pins are in properly I think , but how would I do that restart your saying
Sorry got confused which pic you reply to.
it looks like case buttons are connected (below GPU), but maybe he connected them wrong, didn't turn PSU on or didn't plug PSU in the electric socket.
Second part of my post still stands.
yeah. or at least i feel like it is.
Postan. Just got my 1800X running stable at 3.9, memory at 14-14-14-34 3200. 32GB kit of HyperX 2666 wouldn't post at all, no matter the circumstances.
Well, let's see. What happens when you press the power button?
This is what I used for case pins but yes psu was connected and on
Check with MOBO manual if power on button is plugged in properly, check if PSU is turned on ('|' not 'O').
Did you use standoffs for the motherboard?
Else something is DOA.
Look like your RAM placement is fucking retarded
I don't think I've ever seen a system that puts two RAM sticks next to one another
read the motherboard manual for RAM placement
Is it from motherboard manual or some random pic from the Internet?
different boards have different layouts.
if you have no physical manual you can find it on manufacturer's site.
It is but it's not the reason of his problems.
Don't confuse him more.
Oh cool your crosshair gets fuckin hot too
I'm shit hits like 70 under load, you got the same issue? I think it's measuring the PCH temp of the chipset
He did so much wrong
I don't even know what the issue is at this point
ay fuccboi show us your front panel connector placement
don't give us none of that out of focus bullshit
I really hope you just bought a Puget systems graphics card brace, and didn't actually pay them to assemble a PC.
Yes standoff are inserted , and I tried both on and off ways and nothing went on
I followed this at first then some user gave me that other pic, thanks for the helpv
This is all it says about ram
Nah i just bought it, if someone built me a computer i'd probably disassemble it to build it myself anyway.
The board reads a variety of sensors with about 10-20 degrees too high temps, including CPU. The board tells me 50 degrees on my 1800X's package when it's actually 30 in Ryzen Master, that was calibrated for exactly that issue. So chances are our boards don't actually get that hot.
>61019579
FUCK,op here
I've just realized that my card is in pci 2.0 4x slot
Will it bottle neck my rx 580 significiantly?
Pci 2.0 4x is 2 GB/s and rx 580 is bandwidth 256 GB/s will it be 130times slower?
The one next to it is the reset , negative then positive . Above the hddled is a positive P.led then negative. Above the reset is the power switch positive , then negative .
Either DOA or some stupid mistake like too weak PSU.
If you have a second PC you can try checking what is dead, else at least disconnect GPU and try only one RAM in all four slots to see if it at least turns on (then try the second RAM in all slots).
If it doesn't help, narrowing it down further without a second PC/more PC parts may not be possible.
550w psu, but I'll try without the GPU, and move the ram right now. I don't have a second pc though
I'm guessing that that's completly true, no way our chipsets are getting that hot
Yep.
Also realized i posted the wrong fucking picture. Here's the finished one.
Hey guys. I'm planning to build my own soon but I need advice. I honestly don't know where to start so is there a sauce or quick info you guys can lend for I cans start. I know they're super expensive but I'm aiming to not go any higher than $5,000.
What key parts do I need?
Where do you get YOUR parts at?
logicalincrements.com
lurk in the PC building general
Just finished this build at work
>@59Hz
> tfw you can swap a mobo without removing the lid
Put the sticks in the 2nd and 4th slot left to right retards.
Work at a computer store ayy?
Shit pay?
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Not when you own the store
What cha got there user
Suck my dick
pretty shitty and trash but it's okay I guess
What the fuck were you trying todo around the PSU?
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What a glorious yellow PCB
I am unironically in awe
That gpu bending makes me uncomfortable.
This honestly is probably the worst shit I've seen on this site recently. Taking into consideration the mishmash of different eras of hardware and that it isn't just a bunch of poorfag parts. Like where do you even start? The Iwaki pump being run on 12v? The shitshow of tubes? Just wow.
user that PSU fan is sucking air in from the top. Original orientation would have had it sucking hot air out of your case and helping cool the insides, now its doing jack thanks to your modding prowess.
Built my first PC
Is the GPU sagging too much? It weighs like 1.5 kg...
Excuse my shit cable management
fucking phone
do the zip ties work fine?
what zip ties
>AORUS monster card
yeah, you should probably support that sag.
How though
It doesn't work like that; the memory bandwidth on a graphics card is the GPU>VRAM bandwidth essentially. PCIe bandwidth is pretty much just for filling the buffer once, then trickling data in and out as new textures a come and go. Graphics memory bandwidth is then how fast that texture buffer can communicate with the GPU.
Yea, the gpu block had no backplate. Don't really matter anyway.
>mishmash of different eras of hardware
The fuck does that have to do with anything?
>Iwaki pump being run on 12v?
It is, I'm not fucking buying a 24v psu just for the pump, it was given to me for free. Pluss it's pretty silent on 12v, alot less heat and still more powerfull than anything sold for pc watercooling, trust me on that.
>shitshow of tubes
I work with what I got.
It just werks senpai.
Is the power cable for the fan just loose there? Could you secure cable please? It'll jam the fan.
Currently perched up on top of my amps and speakers, can't deliver with speccy right now because I'm at work.
Which one?
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Okay, any ideas to help support the gpu and prevent sagging?
>that fucking RAM retardation
Do you have a youtube channel by the name of Joker Productions by any chance?
Eh, i use it for video production mainly. IPS and covering the Adobe scales is what matters to me. plus DP.
It's nice, but not really necessary. I've seen much worse sag than that without any damage long-term to the gpu's pcie, the board's pcie or the pcb of the gpu. If you want to, you can do as i did ( see ) - Puget sells individual GPU sag holder thingy mcjigs that are adjustable in length and height. Just look it up on Amazon, i think they've still got the listing there.
>sucking hot air out of your case
right through the PSU. There's an exhaust fan on the back
OP ghetto'd it right, stop bitching
that GPU sag though
>suck hot air through a 600 watt power supply
this reminds me, I have to check the dust filter on mine. poor little 550 is working hard.
Need to update specs, I had to loosen ram to 9-10-10 because of a random error at max capacity.
fuck all of you
>shit case
>one of the neatest cable arrangement in this thread
>one of the neatest cable arrangement in this thread
not even close
Yoo, does your vs psu humm at higher loads too?
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Cooling upgrade results-
65 Celsius in Prime95 from Ivy Lake 3570. 120mm AVC PWM fan wired into a $20 4 heatpipe cooler.
Maybe useful in summer but overkill desu. AVC is an old company, their fans tend industrial like Delta or Sanyo Denki. Different type of build to modern fans - unsophisticated plastic moulding with solid coils and bearings.
Your gpu looks bent.
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Love that build, is 5.1ghz prime stable on air?
Not a fan of i5's but the way you have tweaked everything to the max is just so nice :)
cl8 timings on 2133 is impressive, I can run 8-8-8-24-1T up to 1850mhz or so on my sticks tho they are 8gb each. Probably getting another stick soon so I get tripple channel.
You've even tweaked the gpu mem timings, I haven't done that since my X1900XTX days!
There is other problems, like its going to vacuum up and accumulate crap on the PSU pcb. And theres a big hole now straight down to the GPU traces. Get a new case smdh
You're legitimately a moron
how stupid are you man?
gl running 5.1ghz 24/7.
Mine shit it's pants after 3 years for being 5.0ghz 1.5v with NH-D14.
I7-3930k, 1080ti the cpu cooler is a Xigmatek Dark Knight
>tfw 980ti 65C under full load with an old dual fan cooler
why can't manufacturers make their stock cooling solutions this good?
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we have pretty similar set ups
Happy with the GPU and the temps?
For my part i feel it does ramp up a bit more than it needs!
You need to think about the sound as well. I bet your card at 65C sounds like a full force blizzard compared to the cards that stops at around 80C instead!
nope, it's actually silent compared to my friend's 980Ti STRIX (triple fan thingy). Granted, the STRIX version is more oc-capable, but at stock clocks it gets way into 80C.
Also, it's a Define R4 and it's good at keeping the whole package silent.