This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.
>Required Viewings For Newbies:
youtu.be
>Strap Guide:
pastebin.com
Previous thread:
Other urls found in this thread:
First for shitting with a shitter.
Second for chronological order
did the seiko expert guy ever post some good deals currently on ebay?
No he didnt
IS that a 8M25 on the far right? it would look so much better with a brown strap
Lot of 214 posting lately.
Get with the century please
My new Pulsar.
>better with a brown strap
Interesting idea, not convinced but will take a look.
thats not even a shitter m8
>amphibia got shipped
What are the hands on the a. lange & söhne watches called?
Shame I have an sdt134 and not an sdt110.
everyting under 500 is shit?
no
kek
first for best dial
thats pretty nice my man
and inb4 blah blah blah.. i like the fucking watch i simply find it comical an alpinist fucker reared his head so quickly.
srsly what strap?
man that design is quite gaudy and distasteful
new cellini collection
Hey guys, trying to find a fashion brand I saw on /fa/. Dial looks like this. with steel and wood. Think the brand is scandanavian or some shit. Looked p neat for a ronda powered watch.
pls help
kinda retarded description or troll
bauhaus design mayb
pic is ochs jr annual calendar
Nice, I have mine on a Strapcode super engineer.
>chinkshit bagelmeme
>not a shitter
What did he mean by this?
I mean its on a whole other level. Its below shitter tier.
> moon o'clock
Are those $40 Vietnamese Croc Straps the real deal? Why are they so cheap?
Is the hamilton khaki field a good watch? I want a basic entry level automatic that will last for 30 years or so.
Lots of crocs in Vietnam.
>moon o'clock
I was just in nam they have those fuckers all over. I ate it multiple times in markets. the meat is cheap as fuck as well.
WRONG
Yeah i didnt draw it well, but this is what i meant
oh shit boys
wayy too retarded to be doing this.. Ill report back after i finish everything
possible reference to Cellinis Perseus with the Head of Medusa with the number 9 symbolizing medusa and the gaze of stone
>white gold vs everose gold
still interesting alternative to the Datejust and Day-Date
I think I changed my mind about buying a Tudor, I'm just going to go for a legit Explorer. I think I like the 114270 more than the current 214270, though. I've never bought a watch this expensive though, much less used, so where should I buy from to get something in good shape and not get fucked over? I want one in really good condition, it seems like $4000 to $5000 is the price range.
Is Bob's watches legit? Or should I stick to chrono24 or crown and caliber?
Is it okay to go to a Seiko/Omega/Rolex boutique and just ask to put them on without intent of buying them? I'll probably be able to afford a luxury class watch in a few years.
yes
You have to act like you're actually planning on buying one and you have to look presentable and like you actually have enough money to buy a watch there. But yeah, they should let you try them on and even take wrist shots to troll /wt/ with, watches tend to sit in the store for a long time and get tried on over and over again.
Does anyone have pictures of the midsize on a man's wrist? I'm tired of manhole covers
36mm looks really good on most wrists from 7 to 8 inches
I'm 6.5
Remeasured at 7, but I'd still rather have a small watch for the stealth factor.
Shit, I forgot to dig up some of my old advice posts and repost them.
I won't comb through current eBay or Y! Japan Auction listings for you, but I will repost one of my guides on which vintage Seiko models are worth looking at.
This is a 36mm DJ on a 7.5" wrist.
Anyone give me a quick rundown on the state of the threads
Haven't been around for the last 2 months
Do 9ball and lawyeranon still post?
VCO on a rubber strap
>tfw still giddy as fuck
Is that really 7.5"? I think I'll get the 31mm then.
Lawyeranon pops in occasionally.
31mm is almost a women's watch size.
Fat Canadian is that you? Get a decent strap for that poor Datejust.
31mm is tiny, 36 should be perfectly fine on you unless you're emaciated.
31mm used to be men's size until niggers wanted to show off MUH ROLLY
No, 36mm was the norm for rolexes.
Nice collection, love your omegas especially.
What watch is similar to a Rolex Milgauss? I really like the design but I'm a college student and I just can't find one. I like turquoise dials.
Just got this, really like it so far except the band. Italian leather with gold clasp in the way.
>Inb4 autists reply
Yes I'm a nigger diver
Same wrist size as you. 36mm will be fine.
>tfw still gaudy as fuck
ftfy
We have a lot of those fuckers here, as in a fuck ton of croc farm.
PETA and other retard jab us once a while but on the bright side, i can always get my croc strap dirt cheap
[spoiler]40$ is kinda expensive, i can buy a croc strap for 35$[/spoiler]
>Yes I'm a nigger diver
But user, you're white, don't lie to me
...
I'll just go to an AD when I get the chance, I'll hold off splurging until I can buy it without worrying about the price
Rolexes were mostly 36mm except the Sub and GMT from like the 1960s until a few years ago.
What are your criticisms? Would be appreciated rather than a picture from.a child's cartoon!
Yes, and I quite like that EULIT Palma on it. I don't like jubilee bracelets and especially not two-tone jubilee bracelets so I only wear the DJ on a perlon or croc.
I wouldn't. The 36mm will look fine on you.
Thanks m8
Thread needs more Olongapo
this isnt your watch
If you are looking for a good value in a vintage Seiko from the late 1960's to 1970's period then I would consider the following model lines:
1) Lord Marvel 5740C. The only Suwa Seikosha entrant on this list. It doesn't hack, and doesn't have a date complication, but its very simplicity is its greatest strength. The movement is extremely reliable and actually has very good inherent accuracy as well (though the lack of hacking makes that a bit of a moot point). Suwa also made absolute boatloads of them over the course of several years so if you ever need a donor movement for parts, it shouldn't be that hard or expensive to get.
2) LM Special 5206/5216. These are Daini Seikosha produced mid-ranged models that use the 52xx movement. While they were not as finely adjusted and regulated at the factory as the more expensive 52xx King Seikos, they still use the same base movement, which is one of the best designed series produced automatic movements of the pre-quartz era. 28,800bph, hacking, handwinding, quickset for day and date, micro-adjuster for the regulator, and great inherent accuracy. One nice bonus is that the less coveted LM Special versions can often be found very inexpensively.
Just be sure not to confuse the Daini Seikosha produced LM Specials with the 52xx movement for the Suwa Seikosha produced Lord Matics with the 56xx movement (which I would avoid).
3) King Seiko 5245/5246/5256. I still consider these to be the most undervalued vintage Seiko model from the pre-quartz era. In terms of accuracy, build quality and today especially reliability and parts availability they should be in my view more desirable than the Suwa Seikosha produced Grand Seikos of the period whose values have already been bid up to the sky.
(1/2)
Cont'd
The 5256 King Seiko Special models deserve special mention as they were produced during the last 6 months of high-end mechanical production at the Daini factory and had tons of extra finishing, adjustment and regulation lavished on them to leave a statement for posterity.
Again, be sure not to confuse the Daini Seikosha produced 52xx King Seikos with the Suwa Seikosha 56xx King Seiko models (which I would again avoid).
While the Daini Seikosha produced 701x chronographs are available for a good deal now, and the movement is reliable and well designed, I can't advocate a vintage chronograph as a value option in light of how much they cost to service. I've also not recommended the Grand Seiko/King Seiko 45xx models, as they are fairly high maintenance and prone to some wear issues (though they have spectacular inherent accuracy).
(2/2)
Give me a time to put it at
4:20 and if it does set at that then you are in fact by far the gayest fucking faggot lol look at that shi are you serious contemplate suicide perhaps
Why no 5255 (or does that not exist)?
Doesn't exist. The last digit refers to whether it has a date complication only (xxx5), day and date complications (xxx6), or neither day or date complications (xxx0 or xxx1).
All of the 525x's were day/dates so all are 5256s.
Before you ask, the 524x vs 525x refers to a modification made to the movement after it entered production. The original 5206/5245/5246 models had instant day and date change at midnight, but people kept breaking the quick-sets on them by trying to change the day or date between 9pm and 3am so Seiko revised the movement in the 5216/5256 version to lose the instant date change but gain breakage protection from trying to use the quick-set at the wrong time.
By the way, in general you should NEVER try to use the quickset for the date on a vintage watch between 9pm and 3am on the watch, just as a precaution. I always set the time on my vintage watches to 6:00 before setting the day/date just to be safe.
Reminder in case anyone's interested, there are two gold linen dial megasonics on ebay right now.
www.ebay.ca/itm/352094831740
www.ebay.ca/itm/263050979782
get this non-seiko trash out of here
That is handsome
Here you go m8 :^)
Hate me harder bitch ;)
Wear it in good health.
user that is my grail. Do you have a lume shot?
$4100 for an Explorer 114270 supposedly in really good shape. How bad did I fuck up? I'm excited.
Reasonable price if it's real and in good shape.
Sitting with a shitter
do you by any chance dive?
Yeah, I'm underwater as we speak, can't you tell?
Thinking of swapping the crown of my Seiko turtle for a signed one. However I have heard that you can compromise the seal if you don't put in a new gasket after opening it. Should I not worry and just use the current gasket? The watch is not that old.
Gaskets are dirt cheap, which is part of why they get replaced (almost) every time the watch is opened up. Surely you could order some crown gaskets along with the new crown?
I was thinking more so about the caseback gasket. Did not even consider the crown gasket. Alright sounds like I shouldn't be stingy and get some gaskets as well.
Try to find something cleaner than pic related without being boring/average or too girly
> pro-tip you can not.
Is the Seiko SKA366 too fancy to wear casually? It's advertised as a "dress watch" but if I usually wear black t-shirts/polos with dark jeans, is it bad form to wear something like that with them? I'm looking for something under or close to $200 as a first watch and I really like the look of it, but I don't want to get something that will look awkward or out of place with my day to day outfits.
Pic related (not mine but the watch in question)
It really isn't a dress watch though. Black and gold two tone is pretty tasteless to be honest.
It's fine
It's too ugly to wear casually. Also solar is better than kinetic.
Bobs is legit, they tend to charge more though. Also learn to google some info like a grown fucking adult.
DavidSW is also another trusted seller.
Hey everyone