>Headphone purchase advice:
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Please put some effort into your requests and questions.
If you dislike a suggestion, explain why and try giving a better suggestion to whomever asked.
For sub-$50 headphones and IEMs, check out the infographic in >Sup Forums wiki headphone FAQ:
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amazon.com
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hifimediy.com
alkasar.online.fr
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first for fuck anime
is this a good dac
amazon.com
Should be fine.
I'd be wary of Chi-Fi with wallwarts. There's a decent chance the wallwart will be noisy. I'd stick to USB power for Chi-Fi.
HD600 > your headphones.
This is accurate.
was just looking at these to power some hd 600's, im hoping there fine cuz ima prob get em
>HD600>HD600
Okay.
my msr7's are great tho
so I know jack shit about audio splitters and I need some advice
my mic works fine on my desktop, but Im using a splitter for my craptop(thinkpad) and my voice is barely coming in at all. I bought amazon.com
Idol trash here.
What's your setup like, user?
What did Sennheiser mean by this?
This webm kills the snapheiser troll.
Now try it with the HD 600 and report back
>Budget
~150 USD
>Location
United States
>Source
iPhone, PC, etc.
>Type of headphone
IEM preferred
>Open or closed
>Comfort level
Shouldn't be painful after hours of wear
>Sound signature
neutral
>Past headphones
ATH-M50, HD558
Basically looking for the cheapest thing I can find to upgrade from these, if I can do that while spending less than 150 if possible I'd like to do so.
MK5
Can someone inform me about sound signatures?
I'm looking into getting new Headphones and plan on going to different stores to see what kind of sound signature i like
I was looking at CB-1's and thought they would be very nice to get yet I've never tried flat/neutral sound signature before
I don't know what kind of sound signature my headphones i have at the moment are because they are not that well known (Rosewill Prelude Over Ear) what would you guys recommend i do?
The HD598 design is superior to the HD600/HD650 design. It's just a more modern design that's comfier and more durable.
Too bad the sound is complete shit with drivers that shit itself when any high impedance source is used.
You have the exact setup i'm planning on buying. What do you think of it? How do the pads feel after heavy use?
anything more like the Boomstick? pic very related
is this the best thing or is there better things that do this?
(HD600 > HD650) ? FALSE : TRUE;
Dragonfly Black
I ain't a poorfag no mo
What should I buy to upgrade my Philips Fidelio X2?
Is the 598 that bad? I bought a pair on the prime day deal
It's great for the price. Only plebs have high impedance sources anyways.
Will you send me money for a new headband for my 650's if I promise to film myself doing the snapheiser?
?true:false, unless you're trying to troll us.
So why does Sennheiser refuse to update the 600/650?
Put up a kickstarter. I'll chip in.
Is that a niggerbass equalizer or what the shit
They're likely afraid of changing anything on their two most reputable headphones.
HD600 being 20 years old, they might get their shit together and release an upgraded version, hopefully with a new model number, like, say, HD680.
Even more neutral and/or less distortion would be nice.
hehe, HD650 is better.
I like the basssss!!
>bass
Would make sense to go HD650, if you really like bass and really hate treble.
anime fucking website.
listen to rock and roll more often, so~
On second thoughts, maybe I should have ignored the HD 598 deal and gone for a pair of Etymotic MK5, I was looking for a more neutral headphone or IEM.
It's a good headphone, just shit compared to the HD600.
Fuck it, I'd rather spend the money on something that improves on my current DT 880s. Don't want to keep dumping money in to mid-fi
So on my PC I have speakers, nice headphones, and mediocre headphones with a mic for games. Is there a piece of hardware I can get to easily switch between the three?
For HD600's? No. You should probably be looking at something like an uber schiit stack if you actually want those headphones to be worth it.
ATH-M40x's and better pads.
Yes, if you already have DT880, next you should go HD600 tier, not sametier.
DT880 would compete with HD5xx, definitely not 600
Fulla 2 is more than enough for the HD600, the FX should be too.
FeelsGoodMan
Hey Moishe, come check out this goy. I love him!
>meme micca with meme dsd
Good headphone choice.
please respond
I like bass
Are the HD 598 a worthy upgrade to HD 380? They're pretty cheap on Amazon right now.
TH-X00
The 598C is shit. 598 open is well, open. So not a direct upgrade but you'll get better sound yeah.
can you bear the wait until christmas?
Budget: $100
Location: NZ
Source: mobile phone via Bluetooth (audio jack not working but Bluetooth does)
Type of headphone: Full sized
Open or closed: closed
Comfort level: comfy. Padded.
Sound signature: bassy
Past headphones: Bose On Ear, Sol Republic Tracks V8
>Are the HD 598 a worthy upgrade to HD 380?
They're the same tier. HD598 will easily sound better because it's open, but you should be looking at HD600 (ie: the tier above) for a real upgrade.
Beats
how does the build quality between the different K7XX (and the actual K7XX model) differ?
I'm interested in getting a decent AKG headphone for once (i want to stay in mid-fi hell for a bit longer) because the ones I got on a whim, pic related, are on ears and I never knew how shitty those are until I wore full-sized headphones.
Tempted between K7XX, K702, and the K712. I've read comparisons online about the sound, but not much about their build quality which I am more concerned about. K7XX and K712 both have the same superior earpads so I'm guessing I can't just assume that K7XX has the worst build quality and that the K712 has the best. Heck, do they all have the same general quality?
K612 is better than all of those, but fairly difficult to drive.
I scooped up some 1mores for the $79.99 flash deal on amazon, are they as good as people say?
but that's the lower end and with an attached cable?
>hd 598 sale
Already have a hd558 and shp9500. Would it be worth it for the sale?
I'm struggling with these sweatmagnets
>but that's the lower end
asa.scitation.org
>No correlation between headphone frequency response and retail price
K702 are bright. K712/K7XX are dark. K612 are balanced/neutral. I'd recommend a Magni 2 for them at the minimum, though.
I'm using an HD600 with my onboard audio, a Gigabyte Gaming 3 AB350, but when I increase the amp level on it the bass gets out of control. On the highest setting it's ridiculously prominent. Are my ears just sensitive to bass or is this just what amps do? Or is the amp in my mobo just shit?
Nene a cute. A cute!
>is this just what amps do?
Not generally. HD600 don't respond strongly to output impedance variation.
>Or is the amp in my mobo just shit?
That's possible.
Any suggestions on how to mitigate that? Would an external DAC/Amp help?
HD6XX are very sweaty too, good luck.
Which ones are made in China and which ones are made in Austria?
Considering the pads are covered with the same material as 558/598 it shouldn't be a problem.
Yep. DAC X6 if you don't want to break the bank, Fulla2 if you want USB only, Schiit Stack if you got money to blow.
Maybe. HD600 really deserve a Magni 2 IMO. hifimediy.com
alkasar.online.fr
even the K712 is made in Slovakia now. Everything else is made in China.
I wonder if I should even bother with AKG nowadays. The K7XX are still tempting because the headband and earpads look superior to the K612. Though really, it's the detachable cable alone that would sell me to the K7XX even if it's slightly more expensive.
No. HD598 is almost the same (supposedly the same if you foammod) as your HD558.
I suggest you do not buy anything from this tier anymore. Get HD600 once you can afford to.
I'm just waiting on the 6xx
>sable usb stick measurements
Not flat. WTF? What a shit device.
A DAC needs to be flat at least 20Hz-20KHz.
I've never worn the 598 on a hot day, but I can tell you the 600s use a slightly different material.
I got say, I've always loved how the 9500 looks
You cannot hear a 0.25 dB difference. It's flat.
Get a real DAC, not this shit.
>0.25 dB
"flat"
>you cannot hear
baseless bullshit
audiocheck.net
Since this is relevant to you and not tell us if you can reliably detect a 0.2 dB difference. I don't think you can.
physics.bu.edu
>A change by 1 dB is about the smallest change a human being can detect.
I've also read .5 as the limit, but never anything lower than that.
>Current score: 8/16 (50%) — Confidence : 87.34%
That's enough. The beep gets annoying.
Random would give me 33%, so yes, 0.2dB matters. 0.25dB matters more.
Now kindly fuck off.
Test equipment:
- Tired me
- HD600
- Modi2u+Magni2u stack
Idol Trash says good night.
>To pass a blind test, you will need to perform 10 trials at least, obtain a high score and reach a high confidence level: 95% is standard to rate statistical significance. It means that your score outperforms random guesses by 95%. There is still a probability that you just got lucky though, 5%. To reduce such probability to 1%, keep testing until you reached a confidence level of 99%.
You did not pass the test.
Goodnight senpai
>0.25dB matters more
Now that I look at the DAC response more it looks closer to 0.2 than 0.25. It's also only 0.2 dB at 20 Hz and 20 kHz, both of which are almost never represented in music as fundamental tones. The DAC is audibly flat.
I did better than random guessing (33%) with a decent (87%) confidence rating.
You can move goalposts as much as you want, but if I'm better than random guessing, I'm satisfied.
Test is a torture beep I don't want to continue until I get to 99% confidence. Fucking tinnitus.
This pretty conclusively shows that a 0.25 dB change at 20 Hz or 20 kHz is not even close to audible. The DAC is audibly flat.
>random after 16 tries must be 33%
Yeah, I'm sure that you getting only 50% right means you can hear it. That's not how statistics work. I literally just got higher confidence than you in 16 tries by pressing random buttons.
Is the ATH-M30x a good pair of headphones? I don't really know anything about this stuff but they look pretty good and are in my price range. Is there a better alternative without a huge jump in price?
>basic fucking statistics
>moving the goalposts
The way statistics works, I'd have to get the confidence pretty high with results above 33%, which would be what random guesses would eventually average to.
I can't put myself through this beep torture any more than I already have, however.
I need help, not so versed in audio equipment. I'm looking for an amp that would connect to my pc and can plug headphones and a mic into. I would like to have a gain dial for the headphones and monitoring for the mic. The closest ones I have found are Behringer MA400 or a Scarlett Solo.
Also there was this shitty StarTech external sound card I found that has mic/headphone mute buttons which is cool. No gain dials but it does have volume buttons. Not so sure it has monitoring either.
Yes, which means you didn't prove shit. Go to bed, weeaboo.
What's a clear all-around upgrade from the Sennheiser momentum 1 over-ear? They were nice for acoustic stuff like Jazz and indie rock and soundtracks, but they're not really doin' it for me for more cluttered, electronic stuff and trash anime music.
I don't need a tier above, I just want something more versatile, while still being somewhat portable and convenient.
The trap there is that the damage to the signal is cumulative. It doesn't only happen in the DAC, but everywhere in the chain. All damage is bad, as it all does contribute to the whole. The DAC not being ruler flat is a pretty bad start.
It's important to note, for the purposes of this specific conversation, that this blind test is using 440 Hz tones. shows us that it will be much easier to detect X dB difference between tones at 440 Hz than between tones at 20 Hz or 20 kHz, the only frequencies which the DAC deviates in frequency response by ~0.2 dB.
I'd be significantly surprised if anyone can reliably pass the 0.2 dB test at 440 Hz. I'd bet my left nut that nobody could do so at 20 Hz or 20 kHz.
>beating random (= above 33%)
>with a 87% confidence
Terrible :^)
