/wt/ - Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required Viewings For Israelis:
youtube.com/watch?v=3HWxKahieBY

>Strap Guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

fhs.swiss/eng/2004-04-02_301.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

What've you got in the mail, wt?

D A N I
S E I K O S H A

Someone pls sell me a Speedy 3570.50, thanks

>Ruining, your watch by, manually hacking it

Feel free to explain how it ruins your watch.

some other guy already did

I know the answer is no, but are there any modern watch companies making a watch in the 34-35mm range that doesn't cost as much as a college education and isn't ugly?

I've got my fill of vintage and I want something trustworthy that I can wear when it's raining out and not have a heart attack, but it seems that the technology to make decent looking watches that don't cost $10k was lost some time in the 1960s. I was looking at SARBs but those are still too big. I guess worst case I get a quartz but even those are mostly ugly as fuck.

in-house literally means in-house
not from some supplier that you co-founded but don't own

consider a seiko dolce. Quartz, but high-accuracy thermocompensated quartz good to 10spy, might nicer than your standard mall quartz.

Datejust

When? Some other day? Or recently? I haven't read all of the last thread but I did a CTRL+F for cannon, pinion and crown. I don't see anyone mention about how it works.

But it does not ruin your watch. People have been doing it for a long time because it works. There are literally many watches, that are older than the people in this thread, that have been hacked in such a way their entire life and may still outlast us.

There's also a reason manufacturers, like Omega, even tell you how to do it in the manual.

It hurting the watch is probably a marketing rumor created by people selling watches with hacking mechanisms. Because it does not "ruin" a watch, not even a little.

DW

>falling for the DWmeme

Yeah, that's on my list. The things that make me hesitate are the horrible black thing on the crown, the humungous DOLCE on the dial, and the center seconds (really don't want that on a quartz)

Some years back there was a nice Citizen that was pretty close to being perfect (other than saying "Eco Drive" which was forgiveable). 36mm so just a bit over but also forgiveable.

No horrible one tick per second hand (none at all in fact), small slim and functional. Would have been a perfect beater watch.

But they're all gone.

I'd rather just not wear a watch. I'd rather cut my arm off, in fact.

Oh also the odd lug size, and the godawful strap. I'd have to budget another $120 or so for a custom strap, and that's getting pretty close to $500 at that point. I'm not too picky at $200 but at $500 it starts to get into "real watch" territory.

>There are literally many watches, that are older than the people in this thread, that have been hacked in such a way their entire life and may still outlast us.
now you are even spreading bullshit about how mechanical watches need no servicing.

>There's also a reason manufacturers, like Omega, even tell you how to do it in the manual.
there's a reason other's don't, too

>It hurting the watch is probably a marketing rumor created by people selling watches with hacking mechanisms. Because it does not "ruin" a watch, not even a little.
so you didn't even read the bible:
books.google.com/books?id=Xdl9CgAAQBAJ&pg=PA184&dq="setting the hands backwards"

>currently waiting for my newest shitter in the mail

>now you are even spreading bullshit about how mechanical watches need no servicing.
I'm sorry you're not able to understand that outlasting us doesn't mean they are never serviced.

>books.google.com/books?id=Xdl9CgAAQBAJ&pg=PA184&dq="setting the hands backwards"
What this says is that if you have the seconds hand already set, don't turn it backwards because it will stop. In this case stopping isn't wanted, because it's showing how to set a watch to the correct time to the second when starting from an unwound position. But in the case we're actually speaking about, it is wanted to stop the second hand.. you know, hacking?

Nothing on this page suggests that hacking is directly harmful. The only thing it mentions is a special consideration for large, heavy balance wheels and delicate jewel pins (why you'd undersize a jewel pin and oversize the balance wheel is a different question) when trying to speed up the watch by knocking the backing, where you're basically increasing the amplitude so that it bounces off the back of the lever instead of coming to a slow stop before reversing direction.

bought this DW fake, what do you think?

They did own it you ignorant pleb. And just because others had partial ownership doesn't mean it wasn't a movement rolex designed and built at their own facility for themselves.. try arguing with anyone on earth that the 3155 is not an in house movement and i can guarantee anyone with any sort of knowledge will call you a fucking idiot.

what shitter you get a Seiko?

Better DW fake coming through.

>/wt/ is arguing over whether the 3155 is in house or not

I love this place. So much better than WUS and leddit

they did not own it.
they didn't even have a minority stake.
read the press statement from 2004.
fhs.swiss/eng/2004-04-02_301.html

Not an argument.

>I'm sorry you're not able to understand that outlasting us doesn't mean they are never serviced.
what's your definition of ruined then if it's not 'needs servicing'?
servicing can fix basically everything.

Holy fuck you are retarded. It was run as two separate entities. One entity had a stake in the other.. a very large stake just prior to full legal ownership. THEY FUCKING FOUNDED THE COMPANY THEY FINISHED BUYING. They fucking are Rolex.. they designed and produced ROLEX IN HOUSE movements from the very fucking beginning. You dumb mother fucker.

The main component of servicing is cleaning and re-lubricating components.

And watches need serving regardless of you hacking them or not. Hacking them is literally an unrelated issue.

BINGO

ANY watchmaker will tell you exactly this. PERIOD.

>One entity had a stake in the other.. a very large stake just prior to full legal ownership.
the press release says otherwise:
you would not need to build up a minority stake if you already had one.

stop repeating your bullshit w/o sources.

THEY FUCKING COFOUNDED THE FACILITY.. WHAT THE FUCK ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT. Prior to merger it was basically just a rolex facility anyway.. you are a fucking idiot.. that press release says almost nothing.. go find financial statements you fucking faggot.

>Go find financial statements
Lmao good luck, Rolex is owned by a shell """nonprofit charity""" and the Swiss are not known for transparency.

can you please answer the actual question?

could i say the following about knocking:
>But it does not ruin your watch. People have been doing it for a long time because it works. There are literally many watches, that are older than the people in this thread, that have been knocked their entire life and may still outlast us.

>can you please answer the actual question?
You want me to explain to you what "ruin" means?

It means pic related. It means fucking destroyed.

It does NOT mean, "It does nothing, so take take it to get serviced on your normal servicing schedule because it doesn't matter."

your bullshit is the one that's contrary to the official press statement, that literally says:
>The operation will take place through the acquisition of a minority shareholding by Rolex SA in Rolex Bienne Holding.
so you are the one to have to prove your extraordinary claim.

Well waterproof wise the best midsize diver on the market is the 36mm Omega Seamaster. You could probably even get a mid 00's one and get the seals and gaskets checked.

>36mm
>"midsize"

My next shitter

>fhs.swiss/eng/2004-04-02_301.html
"acquisition of a minority shareholding by Rolex SA in Rolex Bienne Holding. "

Rolex is buying a minority share from Rolex to buy Rolex...

you are both retarded... congratulations.

Never really questioned why we do say "midsize" for watches like this or the SKX013. Guess I will start saying smaller. Anyways tried it on in a store and it is really nice and only 11mm thin. Debating getting that or a Speedmaster professional as a graduation gift.

If the hands were not so large and the case was not so large and it wasn't as expensive as it is... I would totally get one..

not as minimal as DW
better get this fake

You are not addressing the fact that nineball says the book does not actually claim what you said it did and you are now diverting the question.

midsize = 30-32mm

I actually really prefer the hands on this model to those on the new samurai for example. The lug to lug is also smaller than the mako XL, and so far my experience with Seikos has been wearing small, so I'm not too worried. Also got it in great condition used, so it wasn't too expensive.

Alright let's get some shit straight. The topic is hacking by applying backwards pressure on the crown: Fine practice VS don't do it. Nineball stands for fine. Some other anons say dont do it.

Anons are quoted saying

>balance wheel is still engaged and wants to move the gear train forward when it's non-hacking, but keyless work goes backwards. that's some unneeded stress for the movement.

Nineball says

>You don't need a dedicated hacking mechanism, if you put backwards pressure on the crown you can "hack" the watch. So even if you insist the second hand must be correct, simply not having a hacking mechanism doesn't prevent that.

user attempts to link a book (books.google.com/books?id=Xdl9CgAAQBAJ&pg=PA184&dq="setting the hands backwards") but it appears they misinterpreted what it was saying as nineball says

>What this says is that if you have the seconds hand already set, don't turn it backwards because it will stop. In this case stopping isn't wanted, because it's showing how to set a watch to the correct time


No rebuttal from the other side so far.


Alright which one fucking is it? Should we hack by applying backwards pressure?

>44mm

post a pic when you get it.

the book instructs you how to set the time correctly.
people following that advice is not some evil marketing conspiracy theory against back-hacking.

>Alright which one fucking is it?
when in doubt follow the manual, not random faggots

yeah it is not as big as people think, lugs hug the wrist well also

I don't care what anyone says.. you can just look at how the system works. putting backwards pressure on the crown stresses the movement. It could work out but it could also clearly harm the movement. I would not do it to my own watches but I only have one none hacking watch and its a vostok.. so you do what you want. I was not either of the arguing parties but i can definitely say mechanically backwards pressure to stop the seconds hand is sub-optimal at best.

BUT user SOME FAGGOT ON A WATCH BOARD KNOWS BETTER THAN THE ENGINEERS THAT DESIGNED THE MOVEMENT.

>worrying about wrecking a vostok
There is nothing to wreck, sperg

Wish I could get a poster of a Lange movement like this

spotted the nigger

you could just make your own.
no print services around?

> >44mm
Want me to post a turtle pic when I wake up tomorrow? I'll post a photo when it arrives.

Considering the strapcode angus jubilee, anyone have experience with it.

Thinking of getting a Seiko 5 as a shitter, thoughts on one of these cheapo automatics?

The strapcode jubilee is the most comfy bracelet option for the turtle besides maybe mesh. The stock bracelet is clunky.

manuals generally are either not going to comment on it or will advise you how to do it. See pic related.

>putting backwards pressure on the crown stresses the movement
Feel free to explain how.

What kind of resolution do I need? Not finding a lot of success looking for 12x18@300dpi images.

Sorry that I wasn't clear, I meant jubilee for the sumo. Thank you for the input though.

Get this instead

The gear you are stopping is still supposed to be in motion.. what is confusing about that? You are putting pressure on the gear train.

Nelson Mandela and the blacks that were elected are commies. If you elect communists, you will suffer.

An escapement continuously starts and stops the geartrain, and keeps it stopped most of the time. A gear train is not "suppose to be in motion," it's actually generally suppose to be stopped, but then allowed forward at interval. Unless you have a spring drive, then it's not stopped.

So is spring drive kind of the opposite of a remontoire?

Fuck off ninefag

Well, I would think it is more similar than opposite, but a spring drive is more than a remontoire, because a remontoire tries to increase accuracy by reducing variance caused by a main spring winding down, but doesn't actually replace the escapement like a spring drive.

When you turn the crown backwards basically what happens is that you cancel out the force from the mainspring. for as far as I know this doesnt cause any Harm through normal everyday use

Indeed, communism isn't doing so well in South Africa. They should go back to apartheid.

I live in a communist country? Thanks for telling me. l would never have known.

Tfw batterymonkey

my new daily beater for around $90

I want an omega globemaster.

>Rayovac
>Becocell (???)
>???
Have fun never having any real watchfag customers. Because none of them will ever put that garbage in any of their watches.

Vostok manuals also tell you to reverse-hack.

best for around $200-300

SARB of your choice.

Dont worry user theyre quality batteries. We mostly do mechanicals anyway, Im not an actual batterymonkey lol

R8 my shitters and post your collections.

>tfw 50% slavshit

Three lies in a row, nice.

>DOGSHIT
>good
>ugly but good
>good, but meme
>if original mechanical then good, if Pinoy quartz then shit
>good commie Bauhaus aesthetic
>ugly as sin
>ugly bezel
>franken
>deformed incestuous rape child of an Amphibia and a Kirov

180 budget, want something minimal but also functional

>ugly as sin

Come on, this beauty has a classic design found in WW2 Tutima, Glashütte and Hanhart chronographs. The Russians started doing those after the occupation of eastern Germany. It's definitely not ugly.

...

The real uggo part is the bezel. Change that or make it finer/smaller and it's alright.

But at least it's a mechanical chronograph and not some cheap Miyota chrono, so wear it in good health I guess.

Throw out everything but the omegas, seiko quartz and pocket/stop watches.

Oh and the accutron obv.

>throw out the longines

I want a shitter. I mean a complete shitter. is this ok for a $50 budget?

throw out everything else

Believe in what you want to believe user. pic related is a hairspring I fixed up today

Forgot pic

:3

>pic related is a hairspring I bent yesterday and fixed up today
Fixed.

> Throw out the spring drive
I know wt gets wet for vintage so I don't expect any love for the modern autos but surprised on the 9r.

Yes

Haven't been here in a while, let's see..
>arguments over Rolex not being Rolex
>someone arguing with Ninebag (total shocker!)
>people asking if seiko 5s are good buys
Yeah okay I'll come back another time

>inb4 canadian cartman posts one of his 43 seikos or that damn mark iv speedmaster