/wt/ - watch thread

This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for newbies:
youtu.be/_2J5phyd9J4

>Strap Guide: pastebin.com/SwRysprE

Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

nytimes.com/2012/11/24/fashion/24iht-acaw2-silicon24.html
timekeeperforum.com/forum/threads/adjustment-and-regulation.21105/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

Don't forget the proper image.

Reminder not to respond to avatarfags and just report them.

I really want a GS the second hand movement is so pleasing to watch.
Spring drive is perfection. The marriage of mechanical and electrical.

Wish they didn't choose that kinda of finishing style, really doesn't speak to me.

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What is a good reliable movement that is cheap to service, cheap to buy, and can take a beating?

I've fucked up many automatic movements, I'm thinking of just going quartz and not worrying about it anymore. Who makes nicely finished every day quartz watches?

Thanks in advance.

I have no personal experience but have heard that Victorinox are built pretty tough and that they test the shit out of their watches.

Where are my /slavshit/ niggas?

Does anyone know how often jomashop has sales? They have the JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon for $6.5k which is 25% off. I know jomashop is a grey market dealer, but I assume that I'll never get back the $2k price delta buying from an authorized dealer.

hi

Wow I'm jelly af. Would trade my two 3133s for that pretty Strela.

>konstantin chaykin, the "russian" watchmaker

sorry, i'm not allowed to post this on these threads or else people will get mad

Whahahaha the nose on that moonphase

somebody shoop merchant into that moon phase

There's Masonic watches made by Raketa too. Really gets the ol' noggin joggin'.

Raketa make no such shit.

Pobeda, my bad. Still made in the Raketa factory though.

No factory in the Soviet Union made such garbage. Stop buying Ukrainian tourist special watches, idiot. The dials are entirely faked.

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thank you

Nice

Opinion on Tissot?

nice

Some of their heritage line has been interesting but besides that pretty bland for the prices.

I'd like them a lot more if they didn't make them so fucking huge.

way too expensive for what they are

>40mm is too big

are you a wristlet or is this the new /wt/ meme? post your wrist, I can't be sure.

>40mm dress watch

I'm fine with 40mm watches, it's the fact that it's just under half an inch thick.

The only problem with that one is the thickness.

(checked)
Both the thickness and diameter are shit. Even for a casual dress watch.

and the gigantic applied logo
the original visodate's logo was half that size

A Tissot can never be allowed to be as good as a Longines. A Longines can never be allowed to be as good as an Omega. So Swatch designers will always have to bend over backwards to make a Tissot as mediocre as possible.

It didn't use to be this way. For a while Tissot an Omega shared a few movements even.

'Sup

Really dig this Poljot deluxe and its lizard strap. I'm waiting for a blue shark leather strap for

Are you a grill?

soup /wt/, opinions on this beautiful baby

And alah akbar to you my friend I guess

SHITTERS

you are better off buying a rare swatch at that point

where and how much did you pay for the watch?

Nice watch Mr. Soros.

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It's still doing +/-0sd with the crown up. 2 to 4s variation at other positions.

Yeah but it's unregulated, so the accuracy is all down to luck.

Having a micrometer precise MEMS escapement is pretty good for inherent accuracy.

Isn't the MEMS escape wheel only in the 9S65 & other GS movements?

8L35b is effectively a GS movement.

Thanks, it is nice. I think this one may be a Luch though not a Poljot.

I got it on eBay for around £14. It had a shitty expanding bracelet on when I got it though.

I have no idea why they put a display caseback on that or their springdrive?

The 8L is not just effectively a GS movement, it is literally an undecorrated and "unadjusted" (either this isn't actually true of the 8L, or it has truly staggering inherent accuracy) GS movement.

traditional manufacturing produces escape wheels accurately enough where manufacturing inconsistencies between the two do not produce different inherent accuracy in practice.

Many brands have been doing this for a while and i am not certain how i feel about it.
check this article out
nytimes.com/2012/11/24/fashion/24iht-acaw2-silicon24.html

>traditional manufacturing produces escape wheels accurately enough where manufacturing inconsistencies between the two do not produce different inherent accuracy in practice.
Evidence? As far as I understand even the best traditional manufacturing processes aren't going to produce parts to micrometer tolerances.

It's been my impression that the micrometer precision of MEMS escapement manufacturing is a significant part of why Grand Seiko's regulated balance escapeemnts can closely mimic the accuracy of free sprung escapements.

what i am saying is that in the real world a Rolex with a normal escape wheel is going to have the same accuracy as a gs. Also the end of the article has a quote form


anyway i mentioned that and linked that article with the intetion of discussing the following

>François-Paul Journe of Montres Journe said that while silicon parts worked well, they could not be repaired, “which means that using silicon in a watch is like producing a throwaway watch. It is similar to throwaway Kodak photo cameras.”

>“Watches are machines prepared to work during decades, and I will not use a material that cannot be repaired,” Mr. Journe said by e-mail.

>But Mr. Gygax of Ulysse Nardin disagreed, saying that in the unlikely event of a failure the parts could be replaced. He said his company had not witnessed any increase in servicing for watches using silicon parts.

Lets play a game. Curate a Three watch collection for $5000. Post pics and rate/hate/b8.

If I could not find a good price on the Mark ii would get a Mark 4.5 for less.

What exactly does unadjusted mean anyway? Do they regulate the movement and do a quick check but not the full chronometer test that lasts several days?

>what i am saying is that in the real world a Rolex with a normal escape wheel is going to have the same accuracy as a gs.
Rolex uses a free sprung balance which, by design, can compensate for the less precise conventional manufacturing of the escapement and typically has better accuracy than regulated balances in general.

Matching Rolex accuracy with a conventional regulated balance design is facilitated by the micrometer precision of MEMS manufacturing.

As to repairability I will note that it is extremely rare to find a situtation where the escapement would be damaged enough to require repair at all, much less to find a situation where it needed repair but not to have those components replaced ourtight. Plus, with MEMS parts manufacturing it becomes plausible to be able t o manufacture spares on demand forever.

I'm guessing watches I inherited for free would be cheating so:

>Rolex Explorer 114270 - $4000 used
>Seiko SKX007 - $250 with a good bracelet
>Hamilton Intra-matic steel/silver dial 38mm - $600 with a new strap

Why are there no good new dress watch options? The Intra-matic should've come in 36mm and 38mm options, not 38 and 42.

You should get the Mark 4.5 over the Mark II period.
Also nice three watch choices.

Here's an explanation from a highly regarded watchmaker:

timekeeperforum.com/forum/threads/adjustment-and-regulation.21105/

What are service costs on those movements as opposed to 861's?

ok a top grade eta 2892-A2 and not a Rolex.. Accuracy is the same the balance is not free sprung


The problem comes down the line. In 100 years will that watch be repairable? it is a good question... maybe a part can be scanned reconstructed in cad and reprinted in the future? who knows.

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Watches that were manufactured out the ass for decades will still have a donor to cannibalize a hundred years from now. If you want a watch that won't bankrupt your descendants a century from now literally get a 7S26 or an Amphibia.

I didn't say i agreed, i said it was a interesting question.

>ok a top grade eta 2892-A2 and not a Rolex.. Accuracy is the same the balance is not free sprung

I don't think I would agree with this proposition. As far as I know the 2892-A2, while having excellent inherent accuracy for a conventional regulated balance, still woud be expected to have more positional variance than a free sprung 313x. I would expect a Grand Seiko movement to exhibit less positional variance than a 2892-A2, especially in hi-beat form. The micrometer precision helps to create a perfectly inherently poised balance wheel, which helps minimize positonal variance.

Not only that, but for GS hi-beat movements using MEMS for the escapement allowed it to be significant lightened, reducing the wear penalty incurred for the higher beat rate to essentially be eliminated, while still benefitting from the reduced positional variance the higher beat rate brings.

You read about positional variance. But in the real world something like a 2892 does not actually exhibit greater positional variance to any measurable degree. COSC testing is specifically designed to measure accuracy based on positional and temperature variations.

That one on the right is awesome, what's it called?

COSC standards are -4 to +6 and the 2892 can routinely meet this standard while still consistently exhibiting more positional variance than the 313x

The advantages of a free sprung baalnce are why Rolex was able to move to a +/- 2 SPD accuracy standard on the 32xx.

Incidentally, I happen to own a Rolex with the 3135 movement and a Seiko with the 5256 movement (a close analogue for a 2892-A2 top grade), and even though both display similar worn accuracy, when you put them on a timegrapher the 3135 clearly has far less possitional variance (it's actually between +2 SPD and -2 SPD in all 6 positions).

I have put multiple 2892 and 3135s on a time grapher and have not noted significant positional variance that you describe. The 5256 is not comparable to a 2892 and has not even been produced in who knows how many years.

ignore my last comment i now know who i am speaking to and would prefer you keep your autistic rambling to yourself.. whatever you say is correct.

So your position is that a free sprung balance offers zero positional variance advantages over a traditional regulated balance? That would be a fairly...unorthodox position to take, and would certainly run counter to a logical analysis how a free sprung balance works compared to a traditional regulated balance, and run counter to the prevailing consensus opinion on the subject.

Also please do explain in what technical way a 5256 would not be comparable to a 2892-A2? The 5256 was regulated to COSC standards in period, and my particular example was serviced this year by an excellent watchmaker and shows 280+ amplitude dial up, up to 310 on the wrist, so I see no reason its timing performance should be any worse for being made in 1975 vs 1995.

Currently waiting for my slavwatch to arrive, will post pics as soons as I get it.

No a free sprung balance wheel can offer some advantages. the original conversation which you always stray from was about how a mems made escapement does not offer a huge advantage over a traditionally manufactured one. A well executed movement like a 2892 wit no free sprung balance wheel and non mems escapement does not differ significantly in accuracy (in terms of positional varience or otherwise) to watches with those features. The seiko 5256 we all know is a movement you really like because it is made by seiko but most people do not consider it to be at the same level as the eta movement. The anti shock system, manufacturing process, and basic design are not considered as good. To be fair to you the seiko movement is probably technically as good and those previously mentioned factors don't really play much of a roll in day to day accuracy but like you mentioned it does display in inferior resistance to positional variance.

>he original conversation which you always stray from was about how a mems made escapement does not offer a huge advantage over a traditionally manufactured one. A well executed movement like a 2892 wit no free sprung balance wheel and non mems escapement does not differ significantly in accuracy (in terms of positional varience or otherwise) to watches with those features.

The conversation had to stray because if you don't believe the consensus technical opinion that free sprung balances exhibit less positional variation than conventional regulated balances, then you will inherently ignore the advantages that MEMS brings to traditional regulated balances in terms of positional variance.

At any rate, I hope you can at least concede that MEMS escapements can be made significantly lighter than what is achievable by traditional manufacturing methods, reducing the torque that has to be exerted on the drive train which improves movement wear and power reserve.

MEMS silicon escapement components also have inherent magnetic resistance and are far less sensitive to lubrication than traditionally manufactured escapements.

As for the question of whether free sprung balances have inherent positional variance advantages, I don't have time at the moment to gather all the relevant evidence but I will do so when I do have time, as I believe the evidence is pretty strong in favor of that proposition.

I'm just going to set aside any discussion of the 5256 vs the 2892-A2 as its not especially germane to the discussion at present. If you want to have that argument another time, I'd be happy to take it up then.

they do have an advantage i was proving the initial point by using an example of a very well executed movement lacking a free sprung balance. Mems also offers advantages over traditional manufacture. When Design can improve to take full advantage of advanced manufacturing and it is used for more parts in the movement it will hopefully provide very significant advantages over all traditionally manufactured movements.

Nice Grand Seiko.

Are these nato straps PURE CLASS or nah?

Honestly, the weekender doesn't look that bad. Would match great with a Hawaiian shirt.

I also dig the Timex. Supposedly I have a couple packages at the post office, so I may post some classy natos later.

Do you guys wear loose or tight? I like to have a little give in my bracelets, even though it seems very "rapper"

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>implying the watch is not better worn without the (((movement)))

Out of Seiko, Citizen, Casio, Timex, Tissot and Stuhrling, which one is the most haute horologie?

Casio

have an offer to buy one of these new from an Omega boutique, what do you guys think?

I was going to say, "Should I just get F-91W" but really what classic Casio can I buy without getting into some gov't watchlist?

If you buy that call the Doc Brown and have him pick you up when you walk out the door and drop you off in an early 20th century sanatorium so you can be lobotomized.

I've got a 710 on the way. Shitter gang represent.

G-Shock is always the answer.

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>ck is in swatch group
>put near tissot and hamilton

More floral straps.

Just found this on the floor, can't find any information on it online except that it's Japanese. Is it worth saving?

10/10 photo.

No that image is trash and should be deleted.

I had a CA53W with a blue and gray NATO strap. My ex-gf wanted it so I gave it to her while we were still together. I really miss that watch.
Sorry, I'm on a shaky vehicle and posting on
>mobile

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