/pcbg/ - PC Building General - Coffin Lake Edition

If you want help:
>Assemble parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>State the budget for your build (and country if not USA)
>List games/software you use often, as well as your monitor resolution + refresh rate
>Clarify your goal for build improvements: lower price or improved specs?
How to assemble a PC, select components & more (outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php?title=Build_a_PC

CPUs:
No i5 unless discounted
>G4560 - poverty-tier builds
>R3 1200 - Budget builds (R3 1300x - Good stop-gap between the 1500x and the 1200, only get a 1400 if you absolutely need multithreading
>R5 1500x - Good but up to 1600 if you can
>R5 1600 - Best value for higher fps gaming / mixed usage; 1600x if you want higher stock clocks
>R7/Used Xeon/Threadripper - Compute/Multitask/VM/mixed use; Not for just gaming

GPUs:
Coin miners have driven price up and stock down, waiting to buy a GPU might be wiser
>Integrated CPU Graphics - Desktop stuff and very light games
>GTX 1050(Ti) - Lower end budget cards, drop settings on newer games, RX560 beaten by both
>RX570 - 1080p@60~hz maxed, running most maxed older games at 100~Hz
>RX580 and GTX1060 6GB - 1080p@80hz maxed, 1440p@60hz at lower settings; RX580 better in newer games
>GTX 1070 - 1080p@130hz /1440p@60hz at high
>GTX 1080 - 1080p@144hz / 1440p@60hz maxed, 4k@60hz in a few games; Probably the highest end card you need for 1080p/1440p
>GTX 1080Ti - 1440p@144hz and 4k@60hz maxed/high in many games
>Good fucking luck even getting a VEGA right now

RAM:
>Check your Mobo QVL before buying any RAM
>Ryzen CPUs benefits a lot from high speed RAM

General:
ALWAYS LOOK AT PRODUCT REVIEWS!
Always consider an SSD. Try buying a large SSD for what you'd pay for your SSD+HDD combined, and add a HDD later
NVMe SSDs aren't for a faster OS boot, they're for productivity/scratch disk/VMs. NVMe and M.2 are not the same thing, M.2 is a form factor

Other urls found in this thread:

ebay.com/itm/New-Crossover-27-FAST-144-DP-HDMI-AH-VA-144Hz-2560x1440-Monitor-Remote-/131820713220?epid=1141007805&hash=item1eb1207504:g:-woAAOSwCM5XPqTE
pcpartpicker.com/list/z3PwsJ
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

death to miners

just realised how much i fucked up the edges in the image
the power of GIMP i guess

You rike?

Are all of my components going to be rip if I go AIO cooler?

if anyone here has bitfenix spectre pro 140mm case fans can you please tell whether it's solid black under the logo sticker, the sticker isn't centered so it looks wobbly when the fan is spinning and i want to take the sticker off but i'm afraid there's a screwhole or something

No, why would they?

yes if you install a radiator on the front of the case it blasts hot air into your case and your components will die and if you put it on exhaust hot air can't escape your case because the radiator is blocking the exits

because liquid on thousand dollar components is not good.

the liquid stays inside the pipes, radiator and waterblock. it doesn't go on the components.

>The only Vega 64 in stock here costs 1200 bucks
Thank fuck I'm not a waste of space gaymur manchild, I don't need anything more than a 560, it's hilarious seeing people pooping their pants because of the big meanie miners stealing their precious gaymur hardware

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I'm about to get a new pc and I know it's coming pre-installed with windows 10. I want to get rid of 10 and install windows 7 on it but paranoia has gotten the best of me.
Can I get a link to a safe download that won't fuck me over?

but what if it leaks.

I'm helping a friend build a PC on a tight budget and I'd appreciate any feedback on what we've got so far. I haven't built a PC since the one I'm using 5 years ago so I'm out of touch with what's out right now. It will mostly be used for gaming.

Budget is $600-800

GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti
CPU: Either an R3 or R5 depending on what the final budget actually is
Mobo: MSI Gaming AMD Ryzen B350 DDR4
PSU: EVGA 500Watt
RAM: Ballistix Elite 8GB Single DDR4 3000 MT/s (will upgrade to 16 if budget allows)
Storage: WD Blue 1TB SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM
Peripheral: HP Pavilion 22cwa 21.5-inch IPS LED Backlit Monitor

no

consider spending more on monitor since it's the most important part of the build. with that budget you should stay in 8gb ram

>HP Pavilion 22cwa 21.5-inch

that won't do user

G-Sync 144 HZ IPS WQHD panel that isn't the ROG Swift. Does it exist?

gib a good one what won't break the bank then

Upgrade to a 1050 or 1050 ti IMO.

Viewsonic XG2703-GS
Acer XB271HU
AOC AG271QG
Dell S2716DG

Acer H236HLbid

I've managed to finish my build which was easy enough but I can't for the life of me decide on a monitor to buy.


Send help.

well what's your build user?

Are the VS series from corsair any good?

The 1050 isn't an upgrade with 2GB VRAM and the 1050 Ti is much more expensive

GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1
Ripjaws V Series 16GB
Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz

Any real point in upgrading from a 4690k OC'd to 4.4GHZ to coffee lake? I realize it isn't out yet, but I figure if I'm a few generations behind there should be some kind of noticeable difference along with DDR4 right?

Not having any issues except for my CF 390s more often than not being barely supported, but I'm getting around 70-80% usage on my CPU nowadays.

Upgrade when you feel like your computer is too slow at whatever you do.

Thanks guys, got a suggestion for a better one? I honestly didn't look at the monitor at all and let him pick one out. I made the same fuckup when I paired my $1200 build with a 720p monitor from 2005 which I only just replaced last month.

will a cryorig h5 with push/pull let me oc r7 1700 as far as it will go before silicon limit? I heard ryzen usually hits lottery limit before thermal limit

AHAHAHAHAHAAHAAHAHAAHAHAAAHAHHAAAAHAAHHAHAHAHAHHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAHAHAAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAAHAHAH

Benq gw2765ht

Not that guy but my locked skylake didn't have that much lifetime in it, it seems.

what's your budget? with gtx 1080 you should choose between 1080p144hz, 1440p144hz and 4k60hz. 1440p60 imo isn't much of an upgrade over 1080p60hz.

1080p144hz are all TN panels (with an exception of 2 samsung monitors) so the colour accuracy isn't that good. it's the best choice if you play a lot of FPS/competitive games and stuff like that without spending much. good 1080p144hz monitor is ~$250 or less.
1440p 144hz monitors are great but cost a lot. if you're interested in that then check for models. they have everything that matters: resolution higher than full hd, high refresh rate and good colour accuracy.
4k60hz is when you don't care about higher refresh rate and just play singleplayer stuff / watch movies and also want a big screen.

1080p144hz would be a better choice imo.

yeah it will be fine

>there should be some kind of noticeable difference along with DDR4 right?

only in very specific use cases
not worth upgrading

>that little intel shills face right now

I'd like to be spending sub 300. I'd prefer to have a 27" size. I'm not a 4k enthusiast so I'm not too concerned about those. I'll probably look more into 1080p 144hz.

Is it worth it to save some extra cash to get the 1700 instead of the 1600 for stuff like Lightroom, Premiere and Ableton Live? Is the performance gain all that noticeable?

>Some Intel H110 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Kaby Lake-S CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions.
is this a meme warning or am I choosing the motherboard wrong, I'm just looking for the cheapest thing that will hold lots of drives for muh budget build

the same person claimed that all PSUs are the same and recommended people to buy evga 500w for 7700k/1080ti builds

27" is already 1440p territory. on 1080p from a close distance you'll be able to notice pixels due to low pixel density.
with 1080p you shouldn't go above 24". viewsonic xg2401 is the best choice in that category.

100 chipset was for skylake not kaby lake. You can flash the bios if you have a skylake cpu, otherwise it won't work.

Benq GW2765HT
it's 1440p with stunning color, can download accurate color profile from tftcentral
rocking it myself, absolutely wonderful display for the price, no back-light bleed no dead pixels

1080p is not optimal for your build

>tfw AMD is gonna do some 990FX bullshit where you can run your X370 board for years and get new CPUs for it

kaby lake cpus were released after h110 chipset motherboards, so in order to work on them the mobos need a BIOS update. ordering h110 is a gamble since you might get one with older bios, unless the seller guarantees otherwise. you can update bios yourself but you need a skylake cpu to do it. get mobo with b250 chipset if you want to be sure it works.

depends on how easy it is for you to spend those extra dollars
I'd go 1600 and OC it to 3.8, getting absolutely best of the best value/performance CPU

Three sockets a year keeps the goyim in fear.

Is IPS still worth it if I'm colorblind? Or are there other reasons to chose IPS?

it's worth it, even if you're color blind you could still see the difference and it has much better viewing angles, modern IPS pricing is so low that there's no point to go TN

...

What's the lowest I should expect to spend for a good 1080p 144hz IPS monitor?

I'm a little torn between whether getting 1440p at 60hz or 1080p at 144hz would be better.

>1080p 144hz IPS monitor
they literally do not exist

144hz all the way. the smoothness is just too good.

144hz is good, but 1440p is just as good, if you're having a hard time to choose between, you have an option to buy Korea monitor like this
ebay.com/itm/New-Crossover-27-FAST-144-DP-HDMI-AH-VA-144Hz-2560x1440-Monitor-Remote-/131820713220?epid=1141007805&hash=item1eb1207504:g:-woAAOSwCM5XPqTE

which is 1440p, IPS and 144hz at the same time
it's all about ur budget, but 1440p is worth it

>$450 for a gook panel

>gook panel

what? its literally the same panel as in thos expensive Asus ROG and Acer Predator stuff, it's made by the same manufacturer on the same production line
don't type if you don't know how this works

user are you smarty pants?

why am I able to tell a difference while using TN panel?

"We consider normal monitors may have 0 - 5 dead pixels."
quality

yes I am if it means knowing more than you, who literally doesn't know how binning works, there are only few panel manufacturers in the world, if it says Asus or Acer or Benq or even Crossover on the monitor it doesn't mean that they made the panel
read into it if you want to enlighten yourself
I assume you're the one advocating for 1080p 144hz instead of 1440p, very unwise user, very

but user I am not that user.

I think you are qt smarty pants. Did not read what you said until that first comma

>you're the one advocating for 1080p 144hz instead of 1440p
that would be me. 1440p60hz is a meme and most people wouldn't even notice a difference between 1080p and 1440p during gameplay, whereas 144hz is significantly better and more distinguishable.
please leave my thread.

Feeling guilty about spending 800 euros on a gtx1080 and new monitor even though i have enough money

me too. I spent about 1100 on a 1080 ti and new monitor

I intend to have 8 gigs of ram, how should I buy it, 4x2 or 8x1? The second way let's me fall for the 16 gig meme in a few years, but what does this mean for performance?

Think about how you'll be well off for years without any worries about your system.

USD

It's 4 now man

In my hunger for a videocard, I ended up getting a new 1060 6GB for 279 yuros, did I get jewed hard or only a little?

>tfw been using a 2600k since 2011
What's Ryzen equivalent to 8700k? I'm on 1440p and literally only using my CPU for games and recording.

RYZEN 1800X

>Recommending 1800x

It has no reason to exist. Just get a 1700 and overclock.

Only a little to not at all depending on the model

Pretty good deal. Does it have dual fans?

Hypothetical here. Say you were building a PC that you wanted to play games on for a decade with only upgrading the GPU or adding more ram if needed.
Would you buy threadripper 1950x? Or wait for the 8700k?

$44 left in my bank account after mistress lisa su wallet raped me

Did it feel good?

r7

>Somehow ran my bank account to -$5.14
>Still need the FX8350 and ram for the rig.

I can either get a 500GB SSD or a 256GB SSD and another 8GB of RAM, which one should i go for?

I've got a couple thousand pics and shit i'd want to put on the SSD so i don't know if that'll be enough with the way SSD's handle their storage stuff (regardless of me installing most games on my external HDD or not) it was fine for my 320gb HDD though

an amd cuck such as myself isnt allowed to feel pleasure

>FX8350
Why?

Started collecting parts months ago, motherboard here, cpu cooler there, it's looking like a real build teasing me in the closet.

Why do you want to use the SSD to store images?

But intelfags are the cucks.

Why the fuck not? Maybe cuz that's what's a storage medium is there for

I know it's a better value for FPS today right now but couldn't I just turn my 1950x into a 1800x by toggling off some cores if I wanted to?
10 years is a LONG times. Having something with so much more raw power has to be worth something even if it is palatalized.

Is AMD also comitted to TR4 for a few generations like they are with AM4?
It seems that skylake X is also a good option but cooling is too much money ontop of a 7900x where as I'd barely have to spend shit to cool threadripper. Also delidding feels mandatory. I know the 7900x is way better than TR for gaming but I'm 100% content with the 1950x's gaming performance today.
I think it might hold that level of performance for far longer than something like a 1700 or 7700k even though those two are superior today right now.

It's the Palit GeForce GTX 1060 DUAL 6GB

It has dual fans and it seemed like miracle bargain since even 3GB models are priced up the ass in the high 300s.

Thoughts on this build? pcpartpicker.com/list/z3PwsJ

Budget is around $1350 excluding the monitor, used for mostly gaming

Palit is alright. Not a top tier brand but that's not a top tier card either so it's fine. In my country that card is 339e.

>DDR4-2133
>$328 gtx 1060
>$150 case
Come the fuck on

I'm not experienced in this yet, only did a build once about 4 years ago. The build I posted so far was just picking highly rated parts that fit my budget so far. Adjustments very appreciated

Really tempted to sacrifice the integrity of my build just to buy a single expensive feature-loaded case instead of a cheap shitty case.

features such as?

Faster RAM, 3000/3200MHz
A cheaper case

I've got an Asrock AB350 pro4 motherboard. I was trying to attach the cpu heatsink (deepcool gamaxx 400) when I realized that the bracket clips don't fucking fit. I mean, I can get one of them on, but the heatsink is then sitting at like, a 30 degree angle to the cpu.

Do I have to get a new cooler, or am I just missing something obvious? (first time pc builder btw.)

>Not getting a flimsy ass case for your hardware like a true gent

Really spacey, designed for maximum ventilation, PSU shroud, door-facing HDD bays. 5.25" bays, 2x USB 3.0 & 2x USB 2.0 on top, actually engineered case feet.

Also, the most important thing. Instead of a slot-aligning shitty case door, it has rails.

I've updated the RAM and case, do you have any suggestions on the video card? I'm not really informed on this

I feel it's important to go on about the importance of the door rails. The last case I had used slots. They never lined up. And then they required force. And then I got pissed and twisted a solid sheet of pretty heavy duty steel like a pretzel.

And that's why I need a new case to begin with.