/pcbg/ - PC Building General Pasta Edition

if you want help:
>Assemble parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>State the budget for your build (and country if not USA)
>List games/software you use often, as well as your monitor resolution + refresh rate
>Clarify your goal for build improvements: lower price or improved specs?
How to assemble a PC, select components & more (outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php?title=Build_a_PC

CPUs:
No i5 unless discounted
>G4560 - poverty-tier builds
>R3 1200 - Budget builds (R5 1400 - If you need multithreading
>R5 1600 - Best value for higher fps gaming / mixed usage
>R7/Used Xeon/Threadripper - Compute/Multitask/VM/mixed use, not for just gaming

GPUs:
Coin miners have driven price up and stock down, waiting to buy a GPU might be wiser
>VEGA
>Integrated CPU Graphics - Desktop stuff and very light games
>GTX 1050(Ti) - Lower end budget cards, drop settings on newer games, RX560 beaten by both
>RX570 - 1080p@60~hz maxed, running most maxed older games at 100~Hz
>RX580 and GTX1060 6GB - 1080p@80hz maxed, 1440p@60hz at lower settings; RX580 better in newer games
>GTX 1070 or Vega 56 - 1080p@130hz /1440p@60hz at high
>GTX 1080 - 1080p@144hz / 1440p@60hz maxed, 4k@60hz in a few games; Probably the highest end card you need for 1080p/1440p
>GTX 1080Ti - 1440p@144hz and 4k@60hz maxed/high in many games

RAM:
>Check your Mobo QVL before buying any RAM
>Ryzen CPUs benefits a lot from high speed RAM, 3200 MHz is ideal

General:
ALWAYS LOOK AT PRODUCT REVIEWS!
Always consider an SSD. Try buying a large SSD for what you'd pay for your SSD+HDD combined, and add a HDD later
NVMe SSDs aren't for a faster OS boot, they're for productivity/scratch disk/VMs. NVMe and M.2 are not the same thing, M.2 is a form factor

Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.com/ASUS-PB278Q-2560x1440-DisplayPort-Monitor/dp/B009C3M7H0/
amazon.ca/Arctic-F12-Rev-PWM-standard/dp/B00H3T1KBE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/X4KGQV
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/4GnMsJ
smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/asrock-unveils-the-x299e-itx-ac-mini-itx-x299-quad-channel-memory.2255/
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

is the Ryzen 1200 a meme or a solid buy?

about to order. any changes i should make? still iffy about the mobo

more ovaltine please

How could i make a custom cmos jumper? Like have a wire connecting to each pin joining together to a button that i could press to reset it? How hard would it be to make something like this?

Only buy if you need a quick and dirty specific use-case cpu. For a daily driver, save up for the 1600

only other relevant thing i've got-

Idk, just no gigabyte mobo. I made my choice and its been raping me in the ass ever since

Which 8GB RX 580 is best?

There's currently a big scare with China banning Buttcoin right now, so I fear this may be my only opportunity to buy.

Read reviews. MSI and Sapphire makes the best AMD cards.

yeah im okay with gigabyte but ive heard it's am4 mobo's suck. i think i might just switch out for an msi board though

Sapphire Nitro+ or Nitro+ LTD

>yeah im okay with gigabyte but ive heard it's am4 mobo's suck. i think i might just switch out for an msi board though

I just put together a build with a Gigabyte am4 mobo and I'm not sure if that's the problem but the whole thing is an unmitigated disaster. I can't do a fresh install after a windows update accidentally the whole thing, multiple crashes I can't diagnose before that, I think a bunch of drivers were fucked up, the mobo disk that comes with it is absolutely useless, I may have bricked two HHD.

yeah i think ill go with an msi. hopefully it works well just so i dont have to deal with their support

>wiki says first build is usually around 4 hours
>took me over 10
>still haven't been able to install an OS
>no longer getting a signal at all after changing bios in an attempt to get windows installation to work
>can't think of a single way to fix it beyond taking everything apart and hoping for better luck next time
I'm starting to think I'm too much of a brainlet for this hobby.

Oh damn. Right now im stuck on a corrupted BIOS/failed overclock(??) Its really pissing me the fuck off

>10 hours to read instructions and plug things in
user...

It took me about 2 hours and that's including cleaning up my old case.

God that sucks. I have a gigabyte fm2 which was fantastic but man that sounds terrible

in light of this screenshot please explain to me why i should still pursue a 1440p 144hz monitor when i can get a 60hz IPS 1440p one and run it better with my machine

this is unmodded BTW

Cause you won't have to run Vsync to avoid screen tearing?

damn this is what i feared, ok ill save up, thanks user

running vsync isnt a problem for me in the first place i normally keep it on other than to run this specific test

Well if you don't mind running V-sync, then you don't need high refresh rate monitors.

anytime something doesnt work like this, it's almost always something dumb you are forgetting OR one of your parts came fucked

which is why it pays to have old parts hanging around from old builds so you can see what's wrong

keep at it user

thank you ill get my 1440p ips monitor or even two then

This is a hilariously common misconception with high refresh displays. You will tear without V-sync even if a game is 60fps capped and you're at 120hz.

Just bought Samsung 960 EVO 500gb for $180, did I make a right choice?

Well it is clear from his screenshot that his game isn't fucking capped at 60 FPS you idiot.

i will light you hair on fire and use a piss and shit filled toilet to give you a swirly you annoying smug little shit

You don't have to. 144hz is a luxury you don't want to give up so staying at 60hz will make your hardware last longer at satisfactory levels. After I played at 144hz for several months and switched back to 60 to try it out, I wanted to claw my eyes out because of how choppy it was.

It was an example, but he will still get tearing running at 94fps. Tearing doesn't take a hike just because the monitor has big dick refresh.

Tearing is a meme

Your game will only tear if the game is capped by a hardware limiter (refresh rate) or software limiter (in engine cap).

>Didn't get a 960 Pro
lmao, practically destitute.

do i bring the ram up to 3200MHz or overclock the cpu first?

ram first imo, if something goes wrong you won't boot at all and have to restart cmos, while with cpu overclock you will just crash, but then you'll boot just fine.

>itt: people who will have buyers remorse

infact i think ill get me a pair of these

amazon.com/ASUS-PB278Q-2560x1440-DisplayPort-Monitor/dp/B009C3M7H0/

>projecting
what'd ya buy user?

I would have bought the pro for $200 new if I wasn't working. I'm always out of luck.

Excuse me if this is a dumb question but about case fans;

I bought two Arctic F12 fans earlier that run 53 CFM. Will this be good enough to keep my case cool? I feel like I should have bought some +70 CFM fans. I'm kinda having second thoughts of how well 53 CFM will be.

Here is link to fans amazon.ca/Arctic-F12-Rev-PWM-standard/dp/B00H3T1KBE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

We don't know your ambient, your CPU cooler, your GPU cooler or your current specs.
We cannot judge whether those fans will suffice or not.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking, thanks.

Some faggot said Tri-X, but that's not a 580.

Ambient is around 20. I'm using a R1600 with stock cooler. As for GPU cooler, I don't have one. I have a two fan poverty tier 1050ti.

I currently have no case fan aside from the one in the front that comes with my case and I find my cpu getting quite hot so I want to add some airflow.

Specs are
>Ryzen 1600
>GTX 1050ti
>MSI B350 Tomahawk
>Seasonic 520w
>2 x 4gb ram

how's the tomahawk? I'm looking for a good motherboard but half of the reviews for an am4 is negative

Case fan is simply to aid the movement of air in and out of the case. If you find it too hot, get better fans.

Tomahawk is a great board.
Ever think a good chunk of those negative review are from Intel fans who feel threatened and have never touched the product?
These delusional brandwhores exist

you're probably right. also a number of them are from people who bought the board with the first ram issues. thanks I'll be getting the tomahawk so hopefully everything works great out of the box

I haven't had any issues, but I've only had my PC for about a week now. Setup was very smooth.

Yeah, I was only wondering if 53 CFM would be fine. If for some reason it wasn't enough, I would order better ones and return the Arctic ones to amazon.

More like majority of the reviews are from people who don't know about the QVL and are wondering why the 3200mhz RAM they bought only runs at 2133mhz.

there's no difference between the artic and regular one correct? aside from looks?

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/X4KGQV

This will be used primarily for gaming in 1080p on most games, only going up to 1440p on games that aren't overly demanding. I just want to know if there's anything at all I could improve upon. The GPU I'll be getting for this build will either be a Vega 56, if I can find one, or a 1070.

I can't decide on a case, this shit is driving me mental.

The Arctic is just a Tomahawk but white with blue accents instead of black with red accents

ah alright. well I took the plunge and just bought the rest of my parts

>vega
Just don't, I like amd but they fucked up too much this time.

Is my logitech G400 from a couple years ago holding me back in competitive gaming?

I love how it feels in my hand. I know the sensor is a bit out dated now. But is it really enough to matter?

A new mouse isn't too much, only like $50..

tl;dr - Have a Logitech G400 mouse. Not sure if it's holding me back. Also looking for TOP TIER not meme tier mouse suggestions

Unless the sensor has gotten faulty over time, the only reasons you'd feel it is holding you back are that there's gunk on the mousepad or on the slidy pads or you've just grown into an old man who can't keep up with youngsters anymore.

I'm 24, and I just recorded my highest SR ever in Overwatch. I don't think I'm an old man, I was wondering if sensors wear out, or if sensor technology is so much better now that it would be an upgrade.

Appreciate your 2 cents

Unless you're literal top 0.1% doubtful.

>Overwatch
It's not your mouse it's the shit games you play. Overwatch is for those people who never were good at any other shooters.

I've been heavily playing counter strike since 2003 and just quit last year. Obviously you have no idea what you're talking about.

That doesn't mean you were good at it. Have you ever won some tournament?

A Overwatch pro will rekt you with a Microsoft mouse even if you use some 1337 gaymen gear. You severely over estimate the importance of mouse usage. BW pros use cheap mouse in a game where APM can go up to 400-500 per minute while requiring precision clicks. The reason they use cheap mouse is because they burn through the mouse too quickly.

dude he's been playing heavily since 2003, you have no idea what you're talking about

>spend the entire afternoon building PC
>it's finally done, time to plug it in!
>wait a second... why isn't the monitor cable fitting in?
>it's a DVA-I and the card only supports DVA-D
I'M SO FUCKING TIRED AND NOW I WILL HAVE TO GO OUT AND BUY A FUCKIBG CAVBLWJAHSHXUANAKAKAHXJCICIBOC JXKOA

A Pentium is better than that. The cheaper Athalon has a iGPU making it a much better buy.

Heh, I've done this before

Gonna get me a Ryzen 1600X and a nice motherboard. What motherboard should or shouldn't I get?

But user we're gonna need at least seven more different connectors to clear all of this up.

Any b350 you like.

avoid A320 boards like the fucking plague.
That shit may be acceptable to Intelfags but all RYzen chips are unlocked and overclockable.

I got to ESEA-Main. Team I was on won open twice and we did decent in main but dissolved after that

Oh so like I said failed "pro" now switched to overwatch. Literally the game for failures.

Is it bad that I'm seriously considering the Thermaltake Core P5? My first case, I tried so hard to avoid rice, I didn't want any side panel on my case... And now I'm considering no case on my side panel. Has anyone used it, is it good? I mostly want it for the wall mounting, I'm considering it plus the tempered glass upgrade, versus an Enthoo Primo. Are there any other tasteful but good/quiet options without paying Lian Li prices? How are cases like the NZXT S340VR Elite, where there's no direct air flow from the front? That one has fans, but they're blowing straight onto the front panel, it seems like that would cause a lot of turbulence, which would cause a lot of noise.

1030 for $75
1050 for $114
1050Ti for $159
1060 3GB for $199

which one is a better buy? will be playing csgo on a 720p screen. i have a g4560 but it is too slow for anything but lowest settings and i want some graphics

If prices were normal, we'd be recommending an AMD Radeon RX 570 all day long, but turns out those are good for mining so good luck. Excluding the 570, get the 1050Ti. The 3GB 1060 is worthless.

I read it's pretty shit for thermals and dust getting all up in your shit (obviously)

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/4GnMsJ

opinions? building it as a 2nd pc for when i'm living at university. stuff in black will be bought off ebay

So how does sodimm ram compare to regular dimm ram? I know it's traditionally used for laptops, but I saw this today

smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/asrock-unveils-the-x299e-itx-ac-mini-itx-x299-quad-channel-memory.2255/

No intentions of buying it, just mostly curious.

The form factor doesn't make any difference in performance. What can make a difference is that you won't have the same options in frequencies, delays and whatnot. Laptop buyers don't really care about that stuff, they just buy whatever's the cheapest.

You won't get any fancy heatspreaders either since those won't fit inside laptops, but they no longer have any impact on performance.

1050ti is good enough for you. 1060 3gb is not bad either but at that price point you should consider going for the full 6gb model instead of the gimped version.

>People give the Cougar Solution shit and call it a bad case
>Cougar Solution doesn't use prongs to hold the door panels on, opting for an alternate and less-frustrating method
>Some $80 cases use the prongs

>Check Cougar Solution 2
>It uses prongs
This is like my autistic criteria for an ATX case final solution. Because the last case I had with pronged side-panels no longer has side-panels because they required force to close properly and it led to warping, which eventually led to me pretzeling solid steel panels because I got fed the fuck up with dealing with their shit.

I'll never understand how they're considered a practical solution.

Why don't ram/mobo manufactures switch to sodimm as a primary platform and let performance determine the price/demand? Is it literally just so they can slap a fancy heatspreader on them? Because I've still seen some "fancy" sodimm, albeit mostly stickers.

There are couple of reasons to that
>sodimms are taller IIRC so you'll have more issues with cooler clearance
>chicken or the egg -problem: nobody is going to buy a motherboard with memory that is incompatible with every other motherboard. A decent pair of DDR4 sticks will be usable for almost a decade, you want to buy the stuff that is compatible with future upgrades.
>fancy heatspreaders are much nicer than fancy stickers
>there might be or might've been some issues with memory module placement on larger capacity sticks

Ordered a 750D then realized I didn't need it and cancelled immediately

What mid tower do I use for a completely aircooled build?.

fucking miners have almost doubled the prices o GPUs in my country and now are trying to sell their burnt out cards for the same price as new ones
why are the so fuckin delusional?

Meshify C, Enthoo Evolv and Eclipse P400 are worth checking out.

>Enthoo Evolv

As a previous owner of this chassis people need to stop recommending it as a good airflow case. It looks good, but temps were noticeably higher when I had it. May not be a big deal to some, but if you're looking to minimize noise/temps by lowering your fan speeds I wouldn't recommend it. Hell they sell modded front panels of this thing online because of the poor airflow.

If you mostly just care about aesthetics though, then by all means go for it.

Meshify C looks good based off reviews, although I have no personal experience.

A friend wants to get another power supply because he got his pc builded by a local store, so they gave him shit component, as expected.

He basically has an i7-6700 (non k) and a 1070, without any kind of OC.
A 500w is fine, right? And is FSP GROUP a trusted one?

Please help me I can't into computers, this is my first time building anything

Will this stuff work together? Is there anything else you recommend instead?
I live in Australia and my budget is $500(not including shipping) so that's why I'm trying to salvage old parts. If I absolutely have to spend more than that then I'll try but I'd like to keep it under 500.
I'd like to play games like GTA V, Assetto Corsa and Subnautica. I use 2 monitors at 1920 x 1080 res but only 1 is used for gaming.

>Parts salvaged from old prebuilt pc (HP Envy 700 desktop?)
>CPU
Intel - Core i7-3770 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
>Motherboard
LGA115 I think? That's what it says on it
>8gb of ram

>New parts
>HDD
Seagate Barracuda 1TB
>GPU
Nvidia GTX 1050 Ti 4GB
>PSU
Corsair CXM 450w

500w is fine, get an Evga G2/G3 or something by Seasonic

My current system:

AMD X6 Phenom II 1090t @ 3.2Ghz
8GB DDR3 1600mhz G.Skill RAM
1tb WD Black
ASUS 990fx Sabertooth Motherboard
HAF X
1000 Watt PSU (Can't remember what brand)
Radeon HD 6950 Sapphire Flex

Anyway, it was a solid rig in 2011, 2012. Wanting to upgrade.

Parts should work fine, and cpu isn't even bad. Do you know if your motherboard is a z77? If it is you could get say a 3770k and overclock it, but you need the right motherboard. Other than that, maybe upgrade to 16gb of ram so you can multitasking better on your second monitor while you play games.

Found a CX550m for 72€. I'm from Spain (as my friend too). I don't usually find good priced EVGA here at all, but I'll look at these.

Alright, thanks user! I'll add ram to the list.
I'm not sure about the motherboard, sorry. How can I tell if it's a z77?

Monitor suggestions? Been using my same Dell 19" and a 27" Sceptre I found in a garbage bin for 8 years now.

make sure you're getting ddr3 ram (really worth buying used instead of new). also getting an ssd would be a good upgrade if you don't have one already.

upgrading to 3770k (which still cost ~$300 used) from 3770 is pretty dumb imo.

Took a look on both. They are 100€ minimum.

Download speccy and it should tell you, or maybe a specs sheet if you bought your pc online