This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine shitter, clock, or other timepiece.
>Required viewing for newbies:
youtu.be
>Strap Guide:
pastebin.com
>Watch Essentials 102:
pastebin.com
Previous thread:
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First for the GOAT LCD quartz.
The Tudor Pelagos LHD at 42mm instead of falling somewhere in the 36-39mm range.
Is it the greatest horology tragedy of our time?
Based Bill Murray sporting a Vostok Amphibia on patrician Kino "Life Aquatic"
>implying he wasn't the worst explorer
>not including the >spoonfeed me horology bullshit in the OP
thank you
Can anyone name an affordable watch movement, current or vintage that has a full balance bridge instead of just a balance cock? I don't mind chink movements.
a smaller dial would just make the textbook written on it appear even bigger
What's affordable? The Seiko 45xx has it and can be had for
fucking crisp and dark display. Does it look that good from side angles?
Sea-Gull ST2503 I guess if you want to go the turbo poorfag route. Just keep in mind that unlike the Russians, the Chinese do not understand their limitations and will design something that's well past their skill and machining capability.
Okay, that's one.
And two.
Thanks so far guys, I'm not planning on buying one right away, I'm just exploring the options available.
>23400 vph
Wow, haven't seen that before.
Come to think of it the 44 has it as well and can possibly be found cheaper than the 45.
The ST25 was supposedly originally meant to operate at 28,800 BPH but it had to be brought down a bit.
Either way it's probably going to be the cheapest movement with a full bridge; or at least it's the cheapest that I know of.
Are seiko SARB017s still cool?
as long as you don't leave it on the stock band or a foam padded, worn out, cow eyelid thin Hirsch strap.
The lume is flawed and the compass is useless, but the sunburst green and gold painted numbers beats the boring 033/035 dial.
Yes, it's much better than typical LCD screens. It's quite noticeable compared to the AE1200 I bought recently.
Now that you mention it, is the 45xx the first volume produced movement with a balance bridge design? Rolex didn't start using a balance bridge design until the 313x right?
looked around a bit and couldn't find anything earlier than the '64 44xx.
How do people generally feel about Swiss watches?
pretty broad question. Low-end swiss watches are often overpriced. Above the $5k mark they're pretty good? Don't really know what to tell you.
I just see everyone having a circle jerk over all the other brands like Seiko and other brands but never or hardly have I seen people mention Swiss.
I found one place selling a Swiss Military chronograph watch for $700aus and thanks to sales and other things the guy said he'll give it to me for $500. Has sapphire glass as well.
In general, volume produced Swiss watches are massively overpriced and have far too much spent on their marketing relative to their manufacturing with the main exception of Rolex/Tudor.
Most of the great Swiss watchmakers are in the realm of handmade watches like Jaeger LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philipe, and other haute horlogerie watchmakers.
Seiko makes good-for-the-money watches at basically every price point up to 10k.
I don't know anything about they watch you're talking about but it sounds like some "swiss" chinese quartz chronograph that is probably a poor value for money at half the price. If it's a 7750-based mechanical 500AUD is a pretty decent price for it.
Best marketing in the game.
> hardly have I seen people mention Swiss
because most people on /wt/ can't afford them.
> found one place selling a Swiss Military chronograph
that means nothing, what was the make and model?
FOUND THE SEIKO MALE
bullshit seiko hawks shit for too much money all the way up the line
How do I maintain an automatic watch?
Keep it someplace dry. Like a box with a silica packet. If you don't wear it for a few months give it a wind anyway. Get it serviced every few years depending on how much you wear it.
There's definitely talk about Swiss watches here, but you need to realize that this is Sup Forums and not many people here can justify dropping more than $5k on a watch. It's like how there's talk of Ferraris on /o/, but most are just going to talk about cars they can actually afford like MR2s and Miatas.
Wii g for my used 1060 homage in the mail. For some reason I am more excited than when I had to wait for my brand new meme SARB033.
Where is this picture taken lad
>via appia
literally just google the filename
What's the best definitive mechanical watch you can buy for $250?
>SKX007/9/13
Better than average reliability, cheap, tons of bracelet/nato/rubber strap options, readily available parts, and modable. The differences between K and J models are negligible but with J models you'll likely have better case finishing, and smoother feeling bezel, smoother running movement (allegedly lubed with higher quality lubrication at the factory in J models), and a properly aligned chapter ring.
Main draw backs are it's not handwinding and the movement is slightly dated. If this turns you off you can always get a turtle reissue which addresses the aforementioned in a slightly bigger case size. Also sometimes there is a misaligned chapter ring but it's rare. I've owned 3 SKX's and none of them were misaligned. You can also use something that has been around forever- an exchange or return if it's misaligned and get one that is.
Don't listen to mall fashion watch fags and get an Invicta or Orient. Unless you want everyone to think you're a pleb and bought a mall fashion watch.
>doesn't hand wind
>doesn't hack
>best watch
No. Agree with the Invicta point, disagree on Orient being mall watch tier point. Orient had better finishing, better movement, but doesn't have the ISO certification. So having more better bits makes it a better watch 2bh. And no one will think you are a pleb for getting an Orient.
SKX, the ultimate normie sheeple watch, aka "Guys, recommend me a nice watch under 200 bucks, thanks :)" watch.
also this
It's been ages since the paste was update, but it's a nice touch.
>accidentally showered with it
>hoped it would die so I can buy a new Casio
>survived without any problems
fug
>full balance bridge
What is the practical difference?
Real answer would be the Hamilton Khaki Field
the Marathon General Purpose Mechanical is really solid as well.
If you don't care about ISO dive watch certification or factory pressure testing, then the Orient Ray/Mako II are probably the best value money can buy under $250. If you do care about those things and want a true tool watch descended from a long tradition of affordable pure tool watch divers then the SKX is the better choice (or the Mohawk or Prospex Monsters if you want a tool watch diver with hacking and hand winding for $250 or less).
How's that LM Special been treating you? Haven't seen it posted here in a while.
handcraftes is overrated. Rolex has the most insane manufacturing secret factory that almost no one has ever seen the inside of. Since it's something like a non-profit, they invest everything in manufacturing and research of manufacturing processes for the lulz. Rolex is like an autists Factorio game that happens to produce watches.
I find that actually more special the handmade meme.
>SKX, the ultimate normie sheeple watch
normie sheeples don't know care about japanese mechanical watches that went out of production years ago
good although slowing down a few min per week now, don't know whats up.
Bought this AP a couple of days ago. Using that now.
These companies take the in-house meme so far that in a hundred years Rolex and Seiko will control their own asteroids from which only they are allowed to mine iron and silicon and such.
Actually, I'm personally more interested in high end volume production watches than in handmade watches myself, but I still think it's accurate to say that most of the noteworthy Swiss makers are haute horlogerie makers and that Rolex/Tudor are the only volume producers that makes excellent quality watches.
Also, while it is true that Rolex had to develop a lot of proprietary technology to be able to manufacture as many watches as they do a year at the quality standards they make them at, I will note that Grand Seiko is definitely a more pure example of weaponized autism in production watch manufacturing. The amount of equipment and labor that Grand Seiko throws at ~5,000 watches a year is pretty absurd, and it really shows in their case/dial/hands/bracelet and movement finishing compared to any other production watchmaker.
>Hamilton Khaki Field
>13
> 14
>15
> 16
>17
Yuck.
I think those watches are fuck ugly
Yes, and? I think several Rolex models are phenomenally ugly but that has nothing to do with how well they are made.
Rolex make some damn fine high end watches and do a lot of amazing R&D work but just happen to be funded by plebs buying endless amounts of generic subs, explorers and daytonas. Say what you like about them being overpriced but their build quality, reliability and accuracy is second to none.
The ultra high end swiss makers deserve praise too but for different reasons. If you want an impeccable dress watch that will never go out of style then you can't go wrong with something like a PP, VC, or JLC.
Pretty well, and will continue too since i now have accesses to one of the best watchmakers in kikeclapistan.
With a sizable discount as well, though my Poljot will be the one to get serviced next since the crown is extremely stiff while setting and is slipping while time setting.
>Implying i would fall for my alpine cousins trickery
>tfw 6" wristlet
should i just kill myself
Nah, just buy vintage watches. Everyone was a midget back then.
Not sure what went wrong with that image, pretty sure i adjusted it properly.
5,9" here senpai
Gshocks are what I use
5,3 here, 38mm is my max.
what are you talking about
>5,3
Are you an actual gril?
That's a bretty gud Seiko, juu-san.
Say, if it's an automatic should you be wearing it on Shabbat? Or hacking it?
>Rolex make some damn fine high end watches and do a lot of amazing R&D work but just happen to be funded by plebs buying endless amounts of generic subs, explorers and daytonas. Say what you like about them being overpriced but their build quality, reliability and accuracy is second to none.
I don't think anyone has suggested otherwise. I have a lot of respect for the all the work Rolex has had to do to develop ways of manufacturing the volume of watches they do at the quality standards they do. Virtually their entire production process uses proprietary, internally developed machines and processes because the tools and equipment necessary to produce Rolex's volume at Rolex's quality standard simply doesn't exist elsewhere.
While I think Grand Seiko is even more autistic about finishing, manufacturing quality, accuracy and and reliability in production watches, Grand Seiko is also only producing ~5,000 watches a year so they can simply throw enormous amounts of inspection, finishing, and adjustment labour at the watches in a way that Rolex cannot based on their volumes.
I didn't say i liked rolex i really don't get what they have to do with me saying i think seiko's are fuck ugly or why you are even responding to that comment.
>disagree on Orient being mall watch tier point. >no one will think you are a pleb for getting an Orient.
normies see the word orient and instantly think "chinese"
their logo also looks like a beer company's logo
not trying to hate, i'm a big fan of orient and they were my first decent watch after a lot of deliberation, just acknowledging the limitations of the brand
If they changed their logo and reduced the size of their watches they would be one of my favorite extant watch companies.
I really like the design and especially bracelet of that watch.
>Pretty well, and will continue too since i now have accesses to one of the best watchmakers in kikeclapistan.
That is so key for collecting vintage watches. Access to a great watchmaker who also turns stuff around reasonably quickly was actually a major motivation for getting me back into collecting vintage watches after I'd stopped for some time.
what does /wt/ think of this semen demon
As far as i recall, with watches you're allowed to wear and use but cannot fiddle with them. (Set time, use chronograph etc)
Same goes for both mechanical and electronic watches, even if you do wind some of them up from wear (Automatic/Kinetic/Solar).
The bracelet is as amazing to wear as it looks.
Still on the original and very funky Seiko-made thick springbars.
That's where Orient Star steps in.
With excellent watchmaking and cheaper prices come slightly longer waiting times.
Though that's mostly due to him having a lot of work all the time.
orient star has mostly whack as fuck design. the bambino would be perfect with a simple cursive orient and a much smaller case size. 34-36 mm would be a good size for that watch.
Rolex/Tudor have objectively better milled bracelets.
Anyone know anything about Artifice HoroWorks? Looking at getting an SKX013MAS
how do you feel about replicas?
why not save up and buy an explorer?
I'm not quite sure I'd agree with that. Grand Seiko does zaratsu polish all of the polished surfaces on their bracelets. What leads you to conclude the Rolex ones are better?
I purchased an SKX007 with an 6r15 upgrade and a flat sapphire crystal and I have nothing but good things to say about them. I've actually sort of been considering getting an SKX013MAS exactly myself, so if you do buy one post lots of pics of it here so I can decide if I want one.
I once accidentally showered with my socks on.
it's an objective viewpoint, clearly.
clearly you've never owned high-end Rolexes, have likely been mired in the muck of the $8k range of GS.
it does get better.
I have a Speedmaster Professional but I'm not quite sure how or it is.
How can I determine it's age? Is there a serial number / year look up somewhere?
>sure how or it is.
*Old
Care to give some examples? What do you mean by "high end Rolex"? Don't all their models on bracelets use the same basic president, oyster or jubilee bracelets in various materials (excepting glide lock clasps on the divers models)?
Will do. Not sure if I will opt for 6r15 or the one above 7S26. It really jacks up the price.
Will they align the chapter ring?
The bracelet is almost flush with the case and lugs.
Reminder that this exists.
serial number, google it or post the first 3 numbers and we'll be able to give you a general idea
>Steinhart
>45mm diameter x 52mm
>20mm tall
newp
now THAT'S a watch.
blech @ gs. Seiko's entry level watch is what, $50? I won't spend multi-thousands of dollars on a company that has an entry-level watch priced at $50.
can you zaratsu-polish a TURD?
The small Grand Seiko bracelets are designed to leave a small zaratsu polished edges between the areas where the bracelet meets the case and lugs. This strikes me as an aesthetic choice rather than an example of quality.
By that logic Seiko also makes grand complication watches worth hundreds of thousands of dollars with hand finishing taught to the micro-art studio team by Philippe Dufour himself. How many minute repeaters and tourbillons has Rolex made?
It's not a replica, it's a homage by Zeno Watch Basel (a legit Swiss watch brand) to the older Explorers, not the ugly Explorer they make nowadays.
And the vintage Rolex Explorers 1060 go for $8000. Sure I could buy it, but I couldn't ever justify it as a student that still is living on dad's money.
>maxi case
>hates on gs
>doesn't even know about the miracle that is Spring Drive
>comparing Seiko to Philippe DuFour
and this is why Seiko-tards are impossible to talk to. so I don't.
I said better milled, not better finished. Rolex/Tudor bracelets have the best unintegrated case fit of every watch manufacturer that I know of.
homage/replica, zeno = known homage/replica-maker.
and that's cool, but be honest about what you're wearing, and what an homage is.
not knowing the spring drive is essentially a quartz watch
SAD!
BINGO
No, Philippe Dufour was literally paid by Seiko to fly to Japan and tutor the Credor Micro-Art studio on hand polishing techniques, you absolute horological know nothing:
ablogtowatch.com
>One of the most honorable things about Philippe Dufour is his utter lack of protectionism. He's exchanged techniques and lessons with the master watch makers at Seiko in Japan who produce Grand Seiko and Credor timepieces. Dufour is incredibly impressed with their work and shares a story on how he helped Seiko discover a local plant similar to one in Switzerland that Dufour uses as part of the finishing process.
Every day I love Seiko more and more.
Let the white swiss tears flow.
was he literally paid?
reddit-tier imbecile, embrace education and shun mummy's basemen/money
Is this something that has changed significantly since 2007? Because I have a 2007 Rolex Datejust 116233 (like pic related but with a champagne face) and the jubilee bracelet has folded end links, is far lighter and more rattly than a GS bracelet, and has developed significant side-to-side stretch, so you'll have to pardon my skepticism on this topic.