/wt/ - Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for newbies: youtube.com/watch?v=_2J5phyd9J4&feature=youtu.be

>Strap Guide: pastebin.com/SwRysprE

Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

imgur.com/a/6CNO8
ebay.com/itm/1970s-LUCH-2209-GOLD-PLATED-AU5-23-JEWELS-MENS-WRISTWATCH-USSR-SOVIET-ERA-/172934484692?
youtu.be/-C6IvYJKAJs?t=1m24s
youtu.be/mBFI8ScdE4E
youtube.com/watch?v=5c2_g_rVKPc
youtube.com/watch?v=tvTy1jvaWc4
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

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First for Milanese mesh bracelets.

Is this the beginning of the next big thing? Similar to how quartz was?

No.

This is a suprising mix of ugly yet beautiful. Looks so hard to read when it's going.

Why do people even like MEMEloop bands? They look so nasty and a $5 chinese made one is almost as good as a $50 good one. it also looks like the band is cutting into you dude. Loosen it a tad

I certainly hope so, as the post-quartz mechanical watch industry has been for the most part almost totally uninterested in pursuing any sort of innovation that would produce practical performance gains as not being compatible with milking every last dollar from customers using marketing to sell watches at prices vastly over their manufacturing costs.

It would be spectacular if Zenith was able to spark some genuine competition based on performance rather than marketing in the high end production watch market. With the MEMS technology available today, more companies should be pursing making virtually all of their movements out of MEMS silicon parts and replacing balance springs and Swiss lever escapements with precision designed torsional oscillators like the new Zenith movement.

However, the reality is that unless Zenith can capitalize on this new movement to sell a LOT more production watches most of the rest of the industry will dismiss it as a waste of investment when that money could be spent on marketing instead.

also side note not talking about good sharkmesh ones. Those are good for a lot of uses.

True that. But i doubt zenith of all brands would be able to mass produce enough of them to cause any bigger brands to do anything about it.
Rolex and A Lange even do things that are factually worse in the movement but do it because heratage and they dont want to change.

I hope zenith does something but i doubt it.

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>Why do people even like MEMEloop bands?
They're a neat vintage look and a good alternative on watches from the 1970s when you don't want to wear a leather strap.

> They look so nasty and a $5 chinese made one is almost as good as a $50 good one
Staib Milanese mesh bands look and feel nothing like the $5 chinese ones you are thinking of. Pic related.

>it also looks like the band is cutting into you dude. Loosen it a tad
It isn't, I'm just fat.

This is perhaps a better picture for seeing how nice the Staib mesh bracelets are.

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>But i doubt zenith of all brands would be able to mass produce enough of them to cause any bigger brands to do anything about it.
In theory, at least, most of the work should be in the research and development phase. If you manage to develop a good working design for this type of movement, then it should just be a matter of fast your MEMS machines can make parts since they are just using the same parts designs again and again like a CNC would. Assembly for these should be significantly less labour intensive than a traditional mechanical movement design too.

>tfw you're elder tier.

>small diameter, but takes up more of the wrist that 'medium diameter'
>humble, yet tasteful, but the photo chosen uses shitty Instagram filters and the strap is neither humble nor tasteful

I get that it's a joke image an all, but if you set it up that way, the 'nouveau poor' one should actually look the best, because then it would be consistent.

Looking for advice on the brand and the overall quality of their watches. I dig the design, especially the trident thingy and it's affordable (

Chward are a really good brand. I have a trident pro and its honestly incredible value for a swiss watch. They're new(2005ish) brand and theyve had a good number of growing problems, specifically with customer service but they're getting better.
Junghans is an old and well respected brand that really cornered a large part of the bauhaus market a long time ago. Can't go wrong with them at all. From their max bill to meister line, they're pretty classic and refined.

IMO junghans form A is pretty close to perfect for the price point and from a better brand.

I normally don't like Chr. Ward watches aesthetically, but that particular one is pretty neat looking aside from that terrible 9 o'clock logo.

the new logo doesn't bother me at all although I get it's audacious/bold and it can't appeal to everyone.

thank you for your input! greatly appreciated.

The issue isn't boldness but rather that the logo placement and font a very clearly a design step towards modern minimalist fashion watch brands (see: imgur.com/a/6CNO8 ) that sticks out like a sore thumb to people familiar with watch design conventions (who are typically NOT Christopher Ward's target demographic).

Where's the Wojack & Pepe gold watch?

sure, I get the sentiment and where you're coming from. However this specific model reminds me more of an era (60s-70s) and I personally find it distinctive enough from all the meme minimalistic watches out there.
What would you say is their target demographic? From what I understand, their new business approach is to target a much wider audience with watches ranging from medium to high $ (read that on their website)

the only positive to this modern minimalist style is removing all the endless paragraphs of text on some dials. The pelagos dial is half ruined by all this shit. I get some information about the watch is nice but why not put it on the caseback or shorten it.
I dont agree with the whole "its going for minimalism" sentiment of his but their demo is definitely a younger (that is younger than 40 at least) subset since because those are the people who don't care nearly as much about the histoy of a brand that was only founded in 2004. They even put leather straps on divers because young people simply dont use divers for diving now a days.

Why pepe watch when you can have a Holex micky mouse? 100 karat diamonds with 904L steel hands.

How hard is it to actually sell on Ebay instead of buying? I got a few old memenicals, mostly Swiss and Slav I want to flip, but I'd only get scraps for them if I'd try to sell them locally.

Just completed this simple mod:
domed sapphire & new hands.

really pleased with how it came out.

(the dust specs are on the outside of the crystal)

Looks pretty neat, nice strap. Got a pic that shows off the crystal?

thanks. no additional pics right now, I'll get some in a bit.

What watches? Post them.

It's one or two really, one is a Roamer Searock similar to this, only in steel and gray dial. I don't have a photo unfortunately, but it has a dial that's damaged, but not fuck ugly damaged and a good-running, acceptably accurate in-house movement with hacking and date quick setting.

I'll replace the crystal too in a while. Other is a 70's-style Poljot three-hander.

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damn. Looks really nice combined with that strap. Whered you get the hands?
what would you be selling it for? cant sell on chrono24? ebay tends to be fine but if a buyer wants to screw you over it's very easy for them to.

Pretty damn neat, Were did you get the hands?

Roamer Searock from that era go for as much as $200. Since the dial is a bit fucked I'll try to sell it for $100 or even a bit less. Either way I win since I got it at a fleamarket for $20 and serviced it myself.

Looks nice. How is the crystal for reflections? I'm always concerned that domed sapphire crystals can be highly reflective.

ebay.com/itm/1970s-LUCH-2209-GOLD-PLATED-AU5-23-JEWELS-MENS-WRISTWATCH-USSR-SOVIET-ERA-/172934484692?
Is this cop worthy?

thanks!
Hands are from Dagaz

just lose weight canada bro. Fuck man If you need advice i can help you out.

I was telling you not to do this in the other thread and i have to say it looks really fucking good m8. Can we get a profile shot to see the dome?

>ebay.com/itm/1970s-LUCH-2209-GOLD-PLATED-AU5-23-JEWELS-MENS-WRISTWATCH-USSR-SOVIET-ERA-/172934484692?
if you like it
I would never buy gold plated and those hands look like shit. case is fucked and the movement has been replaced with the cheaper copy.

youtu.be/-C6IvYJKAJs?t=1m24s

>ebay.com/itm/1970s-LUCH-2209-GOLD-PLATED-AU5-23-JEWELS-MENS-WRISTWATCH-USSR-SOVIET-ERA-/172934484692?

Movement is legit later soviet period luch
check 2209movement.com

it may be but if you look at that sellers other watches you can see machine marks and shit on the movements. They look franken as fuck

could be real still its a shitter through and through

Do you not see how fucked that case is?

Fair point.
Do you know watches with this look in the same price range and better condition?

The skeletonized one at least is horrifying in person.

At least with this generation of tech I'm not sure what the market is for this. It doesn't have the heritage and "withered old watchmaker slaving hunched over a table with a loupe and a hand file" appeal of a traditional escape lever watch, and it can't compete with TC quartz (or even all but the cheapest non-TC quartz) on a performance basis. If they can get it down to $3-4k I could see it competing but at the ~$10k price point LVMH is talking about I'm not so sure.

I remember reading that the idea behind it is its cheaper to produce each movement, more accurate, more robust, quicker to produce and has a larger power reserve from the some main spring. Some of those may have been predictions before the release.
But in the end it really will depend on how they apply it to their watch range.

>tfw actually considering getting one.

It'd be neat to see these high frequency silicon escapements (like the genequand one too) become more accessible down the line. That said under 10k for the non LE of that particular zenith is a good starting point.

What if you got a fashion watch with an eta instead of the cheap Swiss watches? Would there be some kind of benefit?

breh

youtu.be/mBFI8ScdE4E

Is there anything with the shine of the SARX033 but 38-39mm dial? I'm thinking about other Seiko watches but I'm open to anyone else.

Which watch brands have the best service policies?

If you do buy Squeal, please get the TGV version.
I dont think eta sells to fashion brans. Unless they make actual "swiss made" watches. ETA's are a cornerstone of the market but they arn't magical ir anything. Theyre leagues better than fashion brand shit tho. thats all chinese junk

I have a Fendi with an eta 2824-2, I asked this thread once. I'm currently debating whether I should restore it (small scratches on case and dial, strap needs replacing, and the watch loses 30 seconds a day) or just get something else. I mean, I could try to fix everything myself, but I don't know how hard it would be.

Unfortunately I'm pretty sure the answer to that question is no. As far as I recall Seiko hasn't done any of their classically styled steel cased sports watches in their upper mid-range (~$500-$1,000) at less than 40mm in several years, and I don't think anyone else makes anything with comparable case, dial, hand, and bracelet finishing at anything near a comparable pricepoint.

Anyone who still supplies parts to independent watchmakers.

That last thread was a doozy
A lot of aggression amongst the seiko males and WUS browsers

Samurai lume while I'm fappan

For the love of god, get the TGV watch.

Get the classy TGV version

I like the hamilton khaki field with steel bracelets, what seiko would you recommend at that price point with a steel bracelet?

Does Pierre Lannier falls into that? They seem to have a factory in France.

>order chinkshit parts
>assemble it in france
>can now put "made in france" on the dial
You tell me m8.

Hell, they don't even stop there.

>order chinkshit parts
>assemble them in Switzerland
>"Here's your SWISS MADE ETA 2824 watch sir, that will be $2,300"

Protip: Squale isn't a me-too brand, they have history.

Squale provided cases for Altanus Genève, Arlon, Potens Prima, Prima Flic, Jean Perret Geneva, Ocean Diver / Blandford, Deman Watch, Margi, Berio, Eagle Star Genève, La Spirotechnique, Wertex, Carlson Tavernier Geneva, and Sinn.

Cases designed for 500m water resistance with the crown located at the "4 o'clock" position were sold to Airin, Dodane, Blancpain, Tag Heuer, Doxa, Zeno, and Auricoste.

What are some good bauhaus styled watches to wear that don't make you look like a cuck?

Is that

> Zach from worn n wound

He's a fat jew.

The mass manufacture movements are the ETAs, Seiko movements, Miyota, Seagull, and Rolex, right? Have I missed anything? And out of those, does it go Rolex > ETA > Seiko > Seagull, or is that just hype?

More like Rolex =< Seiko > ETA > Seagull. Some would also include Vostok, which would be above Seagull in terms of reliability and behind in everything else.

youtube.com/watch?v=5c2_g_rVKPc

Amazing what a watch can do to a person

Help, I can't stop buying Cosmotrons!

Also how do I search for WW II Japanese military watches? I don't even know what they were called.

>ww2 japanese military watches

Roman empire military watches is where the mnoney is at mate.

I unironically want a Roman pocket knife though.

youtube.com/watch?v=tvTy1jvaWc4

What the fuck that can't be real.

But they use miyota movements. Fact is no one actually know the answer here.

Don't know for the rest of the watch tough.

that looks pretty good honestly keep at it

What do you like so much about Cosmotrons?

Is this worth €50?

anything junghans and stowa. Or ALange but no one here can afford them.

Im mean you could always go for the classic SARB033 or 035. Personally i enjoy the SARY line a bit more than the SARB specifically SARY057 and SARY073. No seiko is going to have a good bracelet really until you get the the upper SARX line or about 1k tho.

No.

Yes.

nope.

Any Nomos with their new manufacture movements (the movements starting with DUW) are very good quality watches for the price, and certainly have much better movements than any Junghans or Stowa, so if you like Bauhaus styling that's what I would recommend unless you're wealthy enough to go full A. Lange & Sohne.

>exotic movement
>high beat
>chronometer grade accuracy
>high-end build quality
>70's aesthetic
What's not to like?

You can't easily rank ETA and Seiko vs Rolex due to the enormous diversity of movements they make with wildly different technical merits.

Seiko's Credor micro-art studio produces haute horlogerie movements on a different planet than any production movement, Rolex and Tudor's in-house movements are broadly comparable to Grand Seiko mechanical movements, ETA's high end non-coaxial movements are comparable to Credor's proudction mechanical movements (4sXX, 68xx) better than Seiko's mass market movements, but Seiko's chronograph movements are better than most of the ETA ones still in production. ETA's entry level 2824-2 standard and elabore have negligible advantages over Miyota's 9xxx line or Seiko's 6Rxx line, and they are all better than any Seagull because the mainland Chinese don't believe in QC.

>Help, I can't stop buying Cosmotrons!
Yeah, I know that feel when you start getting too interested in one specific vintage line of watches. Any day now someone will start calling you a cosmotron male.

So this guy comes in the bar I work in. He was wearing a rolex sky dweller. Told him that it looks nice and that. He went on about how it's not fake and how he could buy a house from the price of his collection. Showed him my citizen shitter, I bought for 30 bucks. He kinda liked it. Than I jokingly said "wanna swap?". Fucking rolex owners...

What do you think of this egg shaped cosmotron? Should I get it for 50€?

I know how you feel. I just bought my third 5800 looking for one that's actually working

Fuck, forgot pic.

And this one as my second 7803a

Wait, that's a female mannequin's wrist, r-right?