/wt/ - Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for newbies: youtube.com/watch?v=_2J5phyd9J4&feature=youtu.be

>Strap Guide: pastebin.com/SwRysprE

> Watch essentials 102: pastebin.com/VBAu4Rwi

Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Omega_564
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

Let's have positive vibes only in this thread and all be friends.

First for the glory of pre-Swatch Omega.

If watch companies were animals, which animal would be associated with them, i'll begin.
Squale = shark
Momento = rat
Daniel wellington = wasp (they are everywhere and everybody hates them)
Audemar piguet = parrot
Seiko = lion
Invicta = hippo

There's no way DW is a wasp. They are common but people don't hate them, people love them. /wt/ is a bubble. The average normie loves them.

My normie friends think everyone wearing them look like hipsters and that the watch itself is some "classic style LARPing".

You're on Sup Forums, chances are your friends aren't as normie as you think they are. There is a reason they are still in business selling them for $300

Good morning wt

Nice Lan-

Nevermind.

>There is a reason they are still in business selling them for $300
I blame women and toolboys solely for that.

AKA Normies. My point exactly. At the end of the day the average person doesn't care about whats inside as long as it looks nice.

>tfw no jap tourbillon

I'll challenge you to slip that shit under your sleeve.

Fits fine, friend. Excuse the beat up cuff.

Those hands.

That citizen does look pretty nice, but for the asking price you might as well get a hajime aosaka.

Hmm, fine enough.
How thicc is that timepice?

3big5you

It's pretty big, not a dressy watch. I don't remember the dimensions but looking at it i'd estimate 12mm

Reposting my watch because I'm a special snowflake.

Why are the buttons at the side?

>'chronograph' right on the dial
Gee I wonder.

Should I get some random Komandirskie i found for cheap or just settle for a Timex Waterbury?
I have a Orient Mako and a Seiko SKX013 but i stopped coming to those threads because I'm a poorfag who can't buy watches anyways and drooling over them stopped being my thing.

Oh and I had an Amphibia in the past but lost it on a trip, I miss that engraving on the back and the "look i have a russian watch" small talk.

Not why are THERE buttons on the side why are THE buttons on the side. I know its a chronograph I wanted to know why they were placed like they are.

Amphibia is better than Waterbury which is better than Komandirskie. That being said, might want to branch out from divers so Amphibia might not be a good choice. I guess the Timex.

Makes them easier to press and gives the watch a cool hip 80s look.

Yeah but the thing is I like automatic and manual winding watches too much to endure Timex loud quartz movement.
That said I really should get something other than divers I guess...

hi ripley

there were some questions in the previous thread regarding the crystal.

I went with a really subtle domed sapphire, so there is some distortion at extreme viewing angles.
I wanted the subtle dome to keep the crystal flush or below the bezel, keeping it well protected.

here's a shitty picture, hard to show off the sapphire since it's not one of those super high domes.
I actually have a spare double-domed sapphire from a Sumo project. It's a bit higher than this one and the two watches share the same crystal size. Might be fun to put that in at some point.

also, the reflection is not that bad with this crystal. It has a very light AR coating that works okay.

My main question about the crystal was how reflective it is. I've heard mixed reports on domed sapphire crystals being more or less reflective than flat ones, and I know some other brands use domed sapphire crystals that are like mirrors (e.g. Tissot Visodate).

That answers my question.

Why should I give a fuck about watches over 10€ when this is what 2€ gets me on AliExpress?

Finally had time to complete this West-German transistorized wonder.

Recommend me a strap for it.

I know what you mean.
The domed crystal on my Omega PO is incredibly clear. I have to really work to get it to have any glare. The same can be said for the flat crystal on my Pelagos. I think it has more to due with crystal & AR coating quality than shape.

Single domed crystals have distortion at off angle viewing, and depending on the AR coating can be really reflective as well.

The double domed crystal eliminates the distortion, but can be really reflective.

It just depends on the particular application. Sometimes the "AR" coating is applied really thick and can actually increase the reflectivity. go figure.

flat sapphire with a good AR will be the least reflective at the *fewest angles* in my experience.
That said: a flat crystal will have one viewing angle that makes the watch unreadable due to glare.
This is just based on my experience

Thanks

Neat. Consider this strap?

Flat sapphire with no AR is literally a mirror at the wrong angle. From my watches, sapphire is a lot more reflective than mineral glass which is a lot more reflective than acrylic. But acrylic is always domed, anyway.

Since putting the NE15b (6r15) in the Seiko, it has been keeping time with it's Swiss chronometer diver bros.

Still have to pressure test the seiko. Currently building my own pressure chamber to test my watches.

I've not tried a flat, non-ar coated sapphire. Don't think I will based on your input.

Agreed about sapphire>mineral>acrylic in terms of reflectivity.

My old Seastar with high domed acrylic is always low glare.

No, not that one. Looks good on yours though.

>Since putting the NE15b (6r15) in the Seiko, it has been keeping time with it's Swiss chronometer diver bros.
Assuming that's a new NE15B be aware that they typically tend to slow down around 5s a day from the rate they are set when new. Artifice Horoworks deliberately set my SKX Enhanced to run +5 SPD when assembling it and its eventually slowed down to running ~ +/- 1 SPD now. From what I've heard 6r15s are generally known to do that.

Hi user.

Good info, thanks.
I'll regulate it as necessary.

With flat sapphire crystals without AR a lot depends on the thickness of the crystal (such as the super thick Rolex crystals which appear to be way less reflective than most), and on the colour of the watchface. My 52 KS Special has a no AR sapphire crystal but with the white sunburst dial it doesn't appear to have much issues with glare. Same crystal on my dark blue sunburst LM Special has way more glare.

beta wrists

I always though exactly the opposite but it's hard to take a really fair comparison photo. Maybe the Explorer is just a shinier watch in general since the dial is glossy and the hands and markers are gold. The SARB has a more matte dial.

Is that one of thouse vagen hauer swiss chinese meme watch from good stuffs

Hello guys, I have a rather specific questions. Is there way to find 14kt gold filled(plated) buckle?

I went through a dozen of watch sellers and they couldn´t find one.

Ideally a accutron one, but the prices are skyrocketed.

Good morning.

See if you can find one with properly-sized hands.

Yep, though can get a better deal on other cites if you know how to read Chinese.

Yeah they are expensive from Jun, have you bought anything from him by any chance or do you own any Beijing Model?

Yes

I have bought from him, but not any Beijing model because the date window ruins them for me. He ships the Vager Hauers watches with high-speed shipping, so he might lower the price if someone requested cheaper shipping service.

Nice replica

Review Brah? Is that you?

Please, sir. It's a "reissue".

Oh right my mistake.
How much did you pay for it?

what

I thought Reviewbrah was living out of his car or something.

What does /wt/ think about these?

they are all good watches.

No, best of those 3, not a fan but ok

£300. I had the grey version before which I bought for £390 and sold for £700 so this watch is basically free.

>sold for £700
how the hell?
Are the silver repros rare or something?

not him, but theyre pretty rare, i think silver is the actual movie version, and the price goes up a fair bit whenever TGV shills them.

>price goes up a fair bit whenever TGV shills them
That speaks volumes.
it explains the price spike.

I like the far right best, is it a Luch?

Thank you for your opinions mates.
Yeap, that's a luch alright, in a decent enough condition for it's age.

The silver one is the model featured in the movie, while the black model wasn't. Pretty much every Seiko designed by Giugiaro is less than the Ripley except maybe the SBBJ001.

All of the SCEDs are limited edition. Mine's 1984 of 3000 and the grey ones also have a production run of 3000 but because it's the one RIpley wore, its a lot more sought after. I actually prefer the look of the black one and there are a few different colorways.

Tell me again why you hate fashion watches with good movements? 300 bucks and saphire and miyota 9100

Because you can find those same moments on watches that are 1/3 of the "fashion watch" cost.

How about this brown rally for /wt/? Or black maybe?

>movements*

...

>good movement
>miyota 9100
is this bait? Nice shitty twsteel homage of hublot homage of royal oak

FYI anyone interested in vintage watches, Kabaclyde on reddit is having a big sale.

What are the good Omega movements? 6 something?

It's the 5xx/6xx/7xx family you are thinking of. Here is a complete list of variants: ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Omega_564

Keep in mind that in period chronometer certified variants had a lot more adjustment done on them at the factory and so will tend to be more accurate today (and command higher prices as a result).

Literally andthing vintage and hand wound from omega is legendary. The 30mm movements are arguably the best ever made. For automatics the 5xx movement line is the best line of automatics ever designed imo. The 6xx is a relatively newer hand wind series from omega and not as collectable because there were millions made but its a really good and extremely robust one.
also
>inb4 shilling
I just like vintage watches.

Opinons?

beautiful chap. As long as you pair it with a Mvmt watch on the left wrist and a DW watch on the right wrist you'll look impeccable. Also make sure to wear youe watch so high on your wrist its on your hand.

Thank you both.

I think I am going to save up for a Nomos. No more watches for me, hold me to that /wt/. I keep buying shitters and can't stop myself.

>Buying a Nomos instead of a Meister

>I keep buying shitters
>buys another shitter namely Homos

That's really nice, I'll have to lookup the movement.
Nomos are pretty cool!

Whatever you say homo

Dont buy nomos unless you get one of their newer slimer movements at a good used price. They are suuuuper overpriced and lose a large chunk of value when you buy them. IMO its better to buy from more respected and classic brans like Junghans above or Stowa. Id reccoment ALange but no one here could ever afford one.

OK I can't tell if this is a joke. Stowa is garbage is it not? ETA's inside china cases?

While I would certainly agree that the 30mm Omega manual wind movements and the 56x family were great movements, I think it would be a fairer assessment to say that they are one of the best pre-quartz revolution manual wind and automatic movements, respectively. I don't think it's particularly easy to rank some of the all time great movements that came out in that late pre-quartz revolution period.

For automatics the 56x, the ETA 2892-A2, the Daini Seikosha 52xx, the Girard Perregaux 32A and the Rolex 3035 all came out between 1965 and 1975. I'm less well versed with manual winding watches of the period, but I'm sure there would be some other additional candidates in the conversation in addition to the Daini Seikosha 45xx (which, despite its long term wear issues, is one of the most accurate volume produced manual wind movements ever made).

>Handwound
>Automatic pictured

>They are suuuuper overpriced
Not really for their newer DUW movement models. It's not as if anyone else is selling true in-house designed and manufactured movements adjusted in 5 positions for significantly less than Nomos are (just look at Damasko's in-house movements, Tudor's in-house movements, Breitling's in-house movements, etc.). That being said, you are correct about their depreciation so they are a good second hand buy.

>Stowa
Why would a chink cased ETA hawker be more respected than Nomos?

So wait
Can anyone tell me more about the "rise and fall" of Omega watch quality and movements? Something other than "and one day they decided to outsource to the chinks"

I guess purely because Stowa was making the original design back in the 30s alongside Lange. Of course the Stowa now has very little in common with the Stowa of the 30s, but it's something I guess.

>tfw want an eterna watch but can't justify it because I already have a watch that looks kind of similar to the one I want

its a very long read and you can def google it for in depth, but essentially omega did a merger preww2 with tissot to create swatch and it was great for everyone and they were expanding like crazy until seiko killed the swiss watch industry with the quartz watch and made swatch group insolvent. To cut costs, the newer owners that assumed controll after insolvancy began outsourcing to cheaper labour markets as much as they could while maintaining the whole "swiss made" stamp of approval. Their coax movements are great because its actually swiss made but some parts like the dials and bracelets are all made in poor and cheap environments in SE asia and thus they have massive QC problems.

Their coaxial being great is highly debatable

When did Seiko slap the shit out of everyone else? Does this mean every watch in the swatch group is "compromised" and if I want good shit it has to be from one of the other groups or an independent?