/wt/ - Watch Thread - Germany Edition

This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for noobies:
youtube.com/watch?v=mBFI8ScdE4E

>Strap Guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

>Watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com/VBAu4Rwi

Previous Thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=1JKAm1u0kmc
twistoftime.com/2016/08/30/omega-pocket-watch-regulators-in-the-french-line-era/
youtube.com/watch?v=mBFI8ScdE4E
hodinkee.com/articles/behold-the-patek-philippe-wiretapping-device-that-just-sold-at-antiquorum-geneva
vintagewatchstraps.com/watchmovement.php
strawpoll.me/14402216
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

I really like watches. Thin ones are the best imo.

I'm looking for something like pic related, I know Geckota makes alright straps, any other tips? I'm not paying >$100 for a strap either though

From what I've heard, the Geckota ones are the best value for that type of strap.

It's Speedy Tuesday guys. Common.

Post your speedies.

Ok.

I thought it was speedy sunday

It's not Tuesday.

>Set Lord Marvel to atomic time about 2 weeks ago
>Has lost 18 seconds in that amount of time

Based 5740C

why the fuck is it 40mm?

It seems like it's designed around the location of the sub seconds location on the movement which is an implication of the thin movement and the marker they want at the bottom. Then the distance from the bottom of the marker to the main hands becomes the radius.

>Based 5740C
My watchmaker (Shane for those of you who know him) raves about how good the 5740C is. It's the strength of his praise for it that got me interested in them.

Manly wrists need manly sized watches.

You frickin dufus, I meant why did they design it to by 40mm? It should be a 36mm watch, tops. Why can't fatass wall street faggot just BTFO?

Hirsch Ranger is pretty nice

Is the Lord marvel basically an SARB case with an unregulated gs movement?

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t. fatass

...

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Yo is this shit worth 120 american cuckbucks?
The bracelet is riveted with solid links and solid endlinks. Miyota movement
Also keep in mind that even if I could afford the real thing I could never drop like 5k on a 3 hander, even if the movement is a pinnacle of human engineering.

And I'm saying it's a conscious design decision to use that gap and marker at the 6 o'clock position and what they have to sacrifice for the movement to be so thin.

...

...

I guess. Still a beautiful watch though.

Dont get me wrong i agree it should really be smaller. It is a dress watch, not a diver. But it seems like that's what's going on. If the sub seconds edge was the edge of the case at the bottom it could be 2 or 4mm smaller in radius and be 36mm diameter. So to me it seems like a design decision to have that marker at 6.

>Is the Lord marvel basically an SARB case with an unregulated gs movement?
No. First of all there was much less of a massive gulf in exterior finishing between mid-range production watches and high-end production watches in the late 1960s and early 1970s than there is today.

Secondly, the 5740C was separate movement designed as a test bed for using a 36,000 bph movement in a production watch. The 5740C was only ever used in the Lord Matic 36,000 and not in any other model. After the success of the 5740C Suwa designed other automatic movements using a high beat rate for Grand Seikos, but those designs never equaled the reliability of the 5740C (in significant part because virtually all automatic Suwa Seikosha movement designs have a strong tendency to wear their mainspring barrels leading to eventual amplitude and power reserve issues). There was a manual wind high-beat Grand Seiko, but it was produced by Daini Seikosha and the movement was designed totally independently of the 5740C. The Daini Seikosha 45xx is one of the most inherently accurate production movements of the pre-quartz era, but the total obsession with accuracy over all other considerations means that it has more issues with excess wear today than are typical for Daini designed movements.

What the hell kind of micro-regulator is that? I've never seen anything like that system.

Does Squale really deserve all the hate it's getting?
Why trust in Archiephuckery's word?

Which affordable seiko watches have a perpetual calendar?

if not seiko what is a good affordable mechanical watch with a perpetual calendar ?

It's a patek

Thanks to all the photography anons that game me tips last thread. This seems to be the best photo I've gotten with the a6000 so far. Couple things I didn't notice until I opened the photos on my computer was the blurry second hand. This is because the aperture priority set the shutter speed pretty slow so I'm going to tweak the settings some more tomorrow but it's getting better. I am also going to look at getting some soft warm light at some point.

Anwyays pic is most up to date collection minus the Dolce that should arrive this week. The Orient was a gift before you roast me.

As far as I know Seiko doesn't have a mechanical perpetual calendar. I believe the cheapest perpetual calendar out there is frederique constant, which can be had for just under 6k gray market.

If you cannot look at Squale's cases and see for yourself how cheap the exterior finishing looks, there is nothing I can say that would convince you.

Pretty nice user

I know, but that doesn't answer my question. I've never seen that type of micro-regulation system before and I was wondering if the person who posted the image knew anything about it.

>6k

jesus christ

can i get an analog watch with a day date and perpetual calendar that looks mechanical? Like with a steel case?

Archie is kind of spot on with them. It isn't as chink as he says but they are over priced shitters.

A few questions for the /wt/ historians:
>Why didn't Seiko ever produce a tuning-form movement?
>With all the obsession with smooth sweep seconds hands, and the decade long development of the Spring Drive why didn't they just make a Grand Seiko tuning-fork movement?
>Can the Spring Drive movement be made cheaply, like for Presage-range watches?
>Will Seiko ever make cheap Spring Drive or will that kill the MUH STATE OF THE ART TECHNOLOGY marketing around the GS SD?

I just really wish some other reputable company used those same pale blue colors
Really nice actually and the only reason why I would even consider getting a sqeele

On the bright side although i still need to figure out how to take collection photos the camera takes a nice wrist shot.

That dial looks like fucking shit. If you wanted a diver with a printed dial may as well have just got an SKX. Looks way better and it's 1/4 of the price.

Like what about it though? Seems straightforward enough how it works. I think party of it has to do with the geneve seal - if I remember correctly you be some regulation system that has a way to be"locked down" - in other words a standard regulator like this wouldn't do. I assume a standard screw microadjustment would though - don't know why they went with the snail. Looks cool though.

Is it just made to imitate the riveted look, like what Tudor is doing now? Actual riveted bracelets are a pain in the ass, they're folded links with rivets holding the links together and since it's impossible to undo a rivet you basically have to unfold the link to remove it and then fold it back together when you resize the bracelet. I think Tudor just uses a normal modern solid bracelet but with domed screws to give it a riveted look.

Also, that looks like cheap shit to be honest. If you're so sure you would never ever really want an Explorer then why not just pick something in a similar style that isn't chinkshit? I'd take a Hamilton Khaki or a Seiko SARG or something over that 11 times out of 10.

I can't answer all your questions, but some points - every tuning fork movement in the world was designed by Max hetzel, either proprietary for a manufacturer (like the megasonic), licensed (like the citizen hisonic), or stolen (like the Slava). Perhaps Seiko want interested in any of those options.

Seiko also had smooth sweep second hands before spring drive, but I don't think it was a big concern for them. Quartz accuracy is also significantly better than tuning fork accuracy.

You also had the Swiss working on spring drive simultaneously with Seiko.

How glad are you that you don't have to pay the TGV tax for your watches?
youtube.com/watch?v=1JKAm1u0kmc

He actually got quite close with the Casio, thankfully not close enough.

I'd literally never seen a snail cam regulator until that picture. I googled how it works, but just to double check, is the small screw the lock and when unlocked you use the other divot to move it?

Anyone want to buy a SARB035? Mint.

I'm not sure if the cream dial did it for me.

im down
150

So the >$500 watch has the same movement of the $80 Invicta. Does that necessarily mean the NH35 movement is shit though?
What kind of specs should you expect in a $500 watch?

>Thin ones are the best imo.
absolutely. thicc watches are bad taste.

I confess I really don't know, though that seems reasonable. I saw a post on nawcc indicating that usually it's turned either with a screw slot (like the one in the center of the one I posted) or using grooves in the outside of the circle (which the one I posted also has).

Some cool regulator designs here
twistoftime.com/2016/08/30/omega-pocket-watch-regulators-in-the-french-line-era/

Thanks for the watch suggestion guys! it looks great on my wrist.

postan my sinn since it's germany edition

Yeah, you know the retail, or at least the cheapest new is worth more

>Germany version

youtube.com/watch?v=mBFI8ScdE4E

>user experiences the hardest lesson in falling for the cheap seiko meme: resale price
Take it. I've had nothing but good experiences selling off /wt/. 150 for a used sarb is probably a little above market price too

posting the best speedy.

Oh boy, start another argument about finishings. That would be great.

It looks fine. Everyone needs to stop being so autistic.

That has to be the unhealthiest forearm ever posted on /wt/.

>t. plebs who have never had the life changing experince of only having to pay a grand for THE. LION. FISHY.

New to watch thread, not a watch person. GF just picked this up for me when she was shopping.

Is this watch decent quality or will it fall apart and/or go out of sync quickly.

>pic related

>150 is above market price
What are you smoking? they go for well over 200 easy dude. Dont try and scam the guy.

>unironically defending squeal
Ok dude. i believe you.

hodinkee.com/articles/behold-the-patek-philippe-wiretapping-device-that-just-sold-at-antiquorum-geneva
wtf

Where?
Also why would someone buy a used, semen and sweat encrusted sarb for "well over 200" when a new one is just 300 bucks?

timex is a pretty good brand. youll be ok, but it is FUCKING LOUD. i had to put mine in a dawer at night. good choice
Marry her.

Anybody know how good the quality is on a DHgate Daniel Wellington fake? Thinking about buying one.

feel free to look up any listing of a mint used sarb.
Theyre all seilling for 270-300.

i got one for like 4 bucks and its nearly as good as a real dw. Only problem is the crown sonjust dont fuck with it and adjust the time slowly. Theyre sketch but so are the normal DW's.
also the strap they send with them are worse than trying to wear it with no strap at all. So order a decent one when you order your Denie wallmartton

People have sold them on leddit for $240 in the last week. I checked just for you.

keep in mind they jump price as seiko makes more/stops making them for a while. Also popularity.
Lowest ive seen a good one go for was like 230 on /r/watchexchange but some people there are retarded.

Thanks for the (you)
Where can I get a good replacement band? I kind of like the trip color nylon aesthetic.

I sold my used SARB for literally 300 USD plus shipping

>keep in mind they jump price as seiko makes more/stops making them for a while. Also popularity.
bullshit marketing
they said the same shit about the skx when the turtle came out and prices were shooting up to like 300. stop falling for this shit

just get something decent from cheapnatostraps dot cum.
thats where i get my meme natos from. Toxic natos are great but much more expensive

I know they do. I'll sell it locally, it was merely a joke posting here. AD's sell them here, at least $350, so I'm good.

im not. They literally dont send them out that often. so whenever online retailers run out (which happens fast) the prices go up for a bit. thats all.
I sold my beat up pepsi skx for 270 when that happened lol.

And this is why we can't have nice threads. The meme groupthink has reached critical mass. You literally can't say anything against Seiko, or for Omega or several others without everyone losing their shit. This isn't even comparable to fashion shitters or other subjects which have objective argument points. Veblen goods are a fucking terrible waste of money by definition not worth it. Get your head out of your ass and stop pretending your shiny snake oil rock is better than another shiny snake oil rock.

Looks good, but how is the movement finishing on this?
I bet Poljot made better devices for the KGB.

>I sold my beat up pepsi skx for 270 when that happened lol.
fucking kek
seiya, amazon and liw always have them in stock though

yeah. They usually have them.
Its all the "american" morons like Dong Island Watches that constantly do the "oh whoops we dont have anymore!" and so they can artificially sell them for literally 380.

what the fuck is this projection here?
Calmn down m8. Squale isnt even a good brand to defend. No need to go full autist over one dude shitposting about how they have bad finishing for the price point.
Pick a better hill to die on.

>Pretending the observable material properties of objects don't exist and everything is a matter of make believe subjective perception
is that way

>DONT INSULT IT!! SQUALE IS A GOOD BRAND!
>ALL WATCHES ARE SHIT ANYONE INCLUDING SQUALE!
come on. This has to be a joke, right?
Stop with your useless shitposting dude. Let me guess, youre that raging lunatic from the last few threads going on and on about how omega secretly doesn't have qc problems and are worth it?

Yeah he was the one who regulated it. He was talking about what a fantastic movement it is. He also likes the 7018/7016, both of which he describes as "absolutely fucking ingenious".

I have never seen someone so skilled with watches. Especially working on these old Seikos- most watchmakers in Southern Ontario have a serious Seiko allergy and I am sure it's not much different elsewhere. My favourite are the ones who say "I don't work on Seikos because they're garbage" , trying to hide the fact that they don't have the skill to deal with anything beyond your basic ETA 2824.

>My favourite are the ones who say "I don't work on Seikos because they're garbage" , trying to hide the fact that they don't have the skill to deal with anything beyond your basic ETA 2824
Be glad, because those guys tend to be butchers.

i've had a timex expedition for a couple of years now and i can't fault it

Is there any cheap alternatives of this watch? I love it but it's too expensive

For the user who was looking for reading materials - I just read through the regulator section here and it was pretty decent; other parts of it until assume are as well.
vintagewatchstraps.com/watchmovement.php

Shane did yours too? What’s your winding schedule? Once a day to full?

No. There's the Accurist celestial for under $300 which does constellations, but not planets.

>artificially sell them for literally 380.
exactly
that user selling his sarb can wait all week trying to make his 300 back but it wont work on anyone here.

If you want to make money quickly just go raffle it on edc_raffle. Since the slots are so cheap they always fill on a SARB and you can get 300 easy

dont feed this guy more (u)'s all he does is cry about omega and random shit.

Dear God... Don't that hurt?

I don't like Sinn watches, but it looks great with that strap.

Just for my own curiosity. I’d assume this is an older thread in terms of age demographic

strawpoll.me/14402216

this 100x
Ive seen groups waaay over pay for things there because they dont understand how gambling works. Honestly its a subreddit for moron buyers and smart sellers