This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.
>Required viewing for noobies:
youtube.com
>Strap Guide:
pastebin.com
>Watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com
Previous Thread:
Other urls found in this thread:
omegaforums.net
alange-soehne.com
youtu.be
omegaforums.net
massdrop.com
twitter.com
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Straight sex
Is Swatch the Old Navy of the watch world?
Allies = quartz watches
Nazi Germany = Traditional mechanical watch industry
Soviet union = Swatch
fuck off Sup Forums
Fuck. I'm a sucker for classic burst dials with depth.
What's Vostok then?
Nazi colaborators
What determines the size and style of the watch you can/should wear isn't just how old the money in your family is.
There's also fashion and your personal age, among others.
And wearing your watch too far away from your wrist makes it really hard to check the time while wearing shirts and/or suit or sports jackets.
Because shirts and suit or sports jackets aren't very flexible, so you'll have a hard time getting them pulled all the way back over your watch.
You'll also look like a choad pulling your shit up your arm like that.
Because time, like money, can be a vulgar thing to draw attention to among the """elite"""; and having to make ostentatious gestures like half rolling up your sleeve to check the time is the pinnacle of tastelessness.
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This was the picture in the original, but I like the explorer more so I updated it with the explorer.
fixed the "not to eager to it show off"
There is something so tasteless yet so tasteful about two tone datejusts. I don't know how it pulls it off.
you know you want it
unfortunately the only people I've met here who wears two tone djs (whether their real or fake) are douche bags, I'd love a cheap all silver homage one since i know i wouldn't really want a Rolex version
Short of the case being the shape of a cutesy heart, I can't think of anything more fruity than a fluted bezel.
Current collection, the Chris Ward and Tissot were gifts and the Stuhrling I bought myself because I thought I lost the Tissot.
Tissot's automatic, other two are quartz powered.
How pleb am I?
Actually really good value for the price pieces.
Is it possible for a watch to redeem a brand?
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Pic unrelated.
thanks senpai
any other recommended purchases? I'm looking to expand my collection once I get some savings.
i'm not sure what this conveys
Well they're not the worst brands, they hold some value, but it's all mall trash as far as anyone here is concerned. You're best off trying to sell them and starting from scratch with the funds if you really want to be in this hobby.
>churr ward
trash
>stuhrling
trash brand but decent aping of max bill design
>tissot
mall shit but a 7750 mechanical chrono is still a 7750 mechanical chrono
I'm gonna need to stick to mall trash tier for a while.
I just got my first job outta college as an engineer so I'm gonna be making some money but not the type of money I need to be a serious watch enthusiast. In a few years, once I get a couple pay bumps and hopefully a side business, then I can start getting serious.
You literally cannot hate on that watch.
is there anything around the price ranges of these watches that isn't trash?
Do we have an updated chart with /wt/ approved watches in various price ranges? I guess not. How about we make one with added diver/field/dress categorization?
>Rolex quality
Apart from the atrocious Seiko 5-tier build quality and the cuck-axial escapement-
>atrocious Seiko 5-tier build quality
What makes you say that?
Nothing wrong with Seiko 5 build quality for it's price.
For the price of a Seiko 5 sure. But for a Memega Semenmaster 300 Masturbator Cuck-Axial MUH BOND?
That's fine, but I'm saying is there are perfectly acceptable watches in the poorfag tiers too, hence selling what you have now. Mostly just lurk these threads, but Seiko (keeping in mind the ongoing shitposting), Orient, Citizen, Seagull, shitloads of vintage, microbrands, and more.
No, obviously not.
What makes you say the Omega has Seiko 5-tier build quality though?
Please stop I can only get so erect
>better finishing than an Omega
>runs for 20 years without service
>won't die if not wound for 48hours
>comes with a nice stainless oyster bracelet
find a flaw
>Please stop I can only get so erect
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Why is WUS losing its shit over this watch?
Just look at it.
Yeah, what a shining example of 80% of Rolex prices for 20% of Rolex effort.
Putting a two tone DJ on leather can make it a little easier to pull off today than the two-tone jubilee.
>20% of Rolex effort
Explain pls.
Because I can show you examples of "Rolex effort" that aren't quite up to snuff. Like
is that 36mm? that looks like a really good sport watch size.
I'm looking at it user. It's nice but not that nice.
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Sure. The exterior finishing is not at all up to the standards one should expect for the price Omega charges for those, and the co-axial escapement is a white elephant objectively worse than a traditional Swiss lever. Rolex might have the occasional QC issue, but with Omega the lacklustre exterior finishing and ticking time bomb movement are by design.
It's a very faithful reproduction of a 1957 watch.
So it has a ton of pedigree too.
waiting on my solar diver to be delivered
>exterior finishing is not at all up to the standards
Can't say I agree, see for instance.
>ticking time bomb movement
As far as I can tell, that only applied to the first gen of co-axials, where they retrofitted the system into ETA 28xx movements.
And even then the worst you'll hear is "it takes expert oiling".
The new 8500 movements are made from the ground up.
>Can't say I agree, see
for instance.
That image is evidence of exactly what I'm talking about. That level of case edge rounding is unacceptable on a watch at that pricepoint, not even to mention how awful Omega's chinese outsourced bracelets are for the price.
>The new 8500 movements are made from the ground up.
Feel free to find a single shred of evidence to show that the 8500 doesn't require escapement oiling like the 2500 did. The 8500 does not have a longer recommended service interval than 5 years, so why would Omega not extend the recommended service interval if they'd found a way to eliminate the need for microscopically precise amounts of oil on the escapement, the the resulting ticking time bomb issues? If the service intervals aren't longer than five years, then what is the point of the co-axial escapement in the first place, besides from making the movement more fragile, more difficult to service, easier to damage while servicing, easier to service incorrectly, and more expensive to work on?
Good leather strap for Alpenis? Do not bully pls.
>That level of case edge rounding is unacceptable on a watch at that pricepoint
Pretty sure that's merely down to design choice.
Rolex and Tudor tend to have more defined edges, while other brands have more rounded edges.
Like pic related, a Lange. Look at the rounding on the lug edge.
>Feel free to find a single shred of evidence to show that the 8500 doesn't require escapement oiling like the 2500 did.
I never said it didn't require specialized oiling. Quite the contrary.
What I did imply was that requiring specialized oiling does not make it a ticking timebomb.
I don't like that watch but you are talking garbage about the finishing or you are blind. 5 years is a standard service interval for all watch brands save for maybe Rolex. The other parts of the watch still needt o be cleaned and oiled. Look at GS they want you to bring a spring drive back in 3 years. Does that mean its shit?
>I never said it didn't require specialized oiling. Quite the contrary.
>What I did imply was that requiring specialized oiling does not make it a ticking timebomb.
Here is a good explanation, with images, of why the requirement to oil the escapement teeth with microscopic precision for cushioning rather than lubrication is such an issue: omegaforums.net
There, Al Archer does a good job of explaining the issues, but basically Omega's implementation requires prompt servicing directly by Omega punctually every five years because the microscopic amounts of oil used on the co-axial escapement teeth are absolutely vital for the safe operation of the movement and it will begin to eat itself if that oil dries out. Plus, the co-axial escapement makes servicing considerably more difficult, both at the disassembly and reassembly stage, where it is very easy to damage the escapement, and in having to oil the escapement with microscopically precise amounts of oil. This also makes the movement unusually sensitive to precise and prompt servicing every 5 years and at an elevated risk to suffer damage as a result of improperly done servicing. So basically objectively worse in all respects than a Swiss lever escapement would have been, but Omega already spent the marketing money to distract you from them switching to a balance bridge and free spring design like Rolex/Tudor so their customers are forced to live with this white elephant.
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1) he's oiling a 2500, not an 8500
2) he doesn't say it's a problem if done correctly
Yes, there is wear but there will be wear on any movement after 5 years. He says so himself:
4236: "Al, have you ever seen a traditional escapement wheel worn like those ?"
Archer: "escape wheels do wear out yes"
And again, those movements with the wear are 2500 movements.
They may have been improperly oiled by Omega themselves, perhaps having been produced early on, before the oiling was perfected.
Who is the best watch manufacturer currently producing wrist watches? Why is it A. Lange & Söhne?
alange-soehne.com
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What would you pay for this if it were mass produced?
the bezel on that has a disgusting texture, the finishing is garbage, and the design including the red windy knob thinggy looks fucking horrid. What is this thing and why would anyone buy it?
>What is this thing and why would anyone buy it?
It's a solar dive watch, people buy it to wear on their wrist so they know what time it is and to time their scuba dives
why is it so bad looking?
>why is it so bad looking?
fuck me its like the blind leading the blind over at seiko.
1) Later in that first thread someone notes that lever escapement wheels almost never show this kind of wear, and Al Archer responds explaining: "Question 2 is related to question 1, and also the specific geometry used on the co-axial wheel teeth - as my photos show they are very thin at the point where the impact (and sliding friction) occurs. Swiss lever escape wheel teeth are more robust in the areas where the friction occurs."
So that puts to bed your attempt to pretend that escape wheel wear is at all common on Swiss lever escapements the way it IS common on co-axial white elephants.
2) In another thread Al Archer explains that the need for microscopically precise amounts of oil for cushioning are due to the materials chosen for the escape wheels and then beat-rate used (both of which were chosen against Daniels' explicit advice) and so two vs three levels on the co-axial escapement are not relevant to the core problems with Omega's implementation of it: omegaforums.net
3) The problems with the microscopically precise amount of oil required are threefold: First, that oil dries out over time and when it does the escapement will begin silently eating itself. Second, servicing them is much more difficult and it's easy to damage the escapement or oil it improperly. Three is that if it is oiled improperly at that service it will immediately silently begin eating itself.
It looks like most stainless divers imo
>why is it so bad looking?
looks a lot like the SKX
not sure what you are talking about
>63579725
Fuck off to
we got banned from /fa/ so we have to post here
Eh, okay then
>Later in that first thread someone notes that lever escapement wheels almost never show this kind of wear, and Al Archer responds explaining: "Question 2 is related to question 1, and also the specific geometry used on the co-axial wheel teeth - as my photos show they are very thin at the point where the impact (and sliding friction) occurs. Swiss lever escape wheel teeth are more robust in the areas where the friction occurs."
That same guy also said lever escape wheels can get damaged due to chipped stones.
So damage does occur.
And again, we're talking about 2500 movements, possibly incorrectly oiled because the oiling was not yet perfected by Omega.
>So that puts to bed your attempt to pretend that escape wheel wear is at all common on Swiss lever escapements the way it IS common on co-axial white elephants.
I never said escape wheel wear is AS common as on Swiss lever escapements.
I merely said your Archer guy acknowledged that Swiss lever escapement wheels also wear.
>In another thread Al Archer explains that the need for microscopically precise amounts of oil for cushioning are due to the materials chosen for the escape wheels and then beat-rate used (both of which were chosen against Daniels' explicit advice) and so two vs three levels on the co-axial escapement are not relevant to the core problems with Omega's implementation of it
And?
>that oil dries out over time and when it does the escapement will begin silently eating itself
All movements do that.
>servicing them is much more difficult and it's easy to damage the escapement or oil it improperly.
I'm sure it becomes routine with experience.
>Three is that if it is oiled improperly at that service it will immediately silently begin eating itself.
All movements do that.
Step aside. Superior watch coming through.
I think that your defense of Omega's co-axial escapement entirely boils down to adamantly claiming it isn't worse than the traditional Swiss lever, while not even attempting to claim any way in which it is superior, says it all.
That's a pretty big pocket watch, does the smaller one not show the time?
I don't care much about the co-axial escapement. The 8500 has a ton of nifty features that make it an extremely interesting movement:
-dual barrels (for more equalized torque release)
-silicon balance spring
-ceramic rotor bearings
-free-sprung balance
-full balance bridge
-nice finish
As long as the escapement is adequate, I don't mind it being a novelty for the sake of novelty.
Literal teething problems with some of the very early co-axial generations aren't going to scare me away.
>looking for vintage watches on ebay
>american shipping is expensive as fuck
why this
If you can't easily modify your watch to be a bomb timer then you are a slave to american pigs
Victorinox massdrop watch. Looks great. Worth it at $99?
massdrop.com
insallaah
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So the good news: at full wind, running very well on the timegrapher dial up.
That amplitude is still pretty low, even compared to a Daini 45xx movement. That's concerning.
The bad news: running not quite so good in another position. The amplitude in both positions seems quite low (I imagine the amplitude was decreased from the normal amplitude of the 32 series but this seems really low). The manual wind still doesn't work. The rate is also kind of unstable, as is the amplitude (varying by as much as 15spd and 20 degrees). I've left it running to see how it's power reserve looks.
>I don't care much about the co-axial escapement.
Ah, so it's just motivated reasoning then. I suggest anyone else reading this look at the links I posted in detail and draw their own conclusions on how much customer hostility the persistence of this white elephant escapement indicates on Omega's part.
>Ah, so it's just motivated reasoning then.
How about just the fact that the issues seem to relate to the earliest generations of co-axials.
>I suggest anyone else reading this look at the links I posted in detail and draw their own conclusions on how much customer hostility the persistence of this white elephant escapement indicates on Omega's part.
I suggest you first show any indication that issues persist in the current 8500-series co-axials.
They've been out for 10 years now, so this shouldn't be too hard to find.
I already did, here , where I liked to Al Archer's explanation that the requirement for oiling the escapement teeth for cushioning results from the materials the escapement wheels are made of and the best rate, rather than the number of levels in the co-axial escapement. The 8500 did not change in those respects compare to the 2500, and therefore logically of course must still use microscopic amounts of oil on the escapement teeth, and is therefore subject to the same fundamental issues as the 2500. The only issue solved by switching to three levels in the escapement was the black gunk forming on the escapement wheel teeth causing early 2500s to stop, but that issue was a separate problem from.the intrinsic flaws of Omega's co-axial implementation.
I'm going to leave this argument here, as it is obvious you won't be convinced no matter what I say or what sources I link.
Per the instruction manuals, Grand Seiko's are recommended to be serviced every 3 years for 9S mechanical, 3-4 years for 9R Spring Drive. lowest service intervals in the industry. Spring drive chrono servicing costs over 1000 dollars.
Yet you are talking shit about a recommended 5 year service interval that is literally the industry standard and did not change when omega introduced their co-axial movements.
Anyone watched this?
Something seems off about this, why is there a bezel? Also the text above 6 is wrong