/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and _monitor_ suggestions; click on the blue title to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find a lot more detailed videos on channels like Bitwit)
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g
>How to install Win7 on Ryzen
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1
>Things you should know before building a workstation
pugetsystems.com/

If you want help:
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs:
>NO i5 7500/7600K or i7 7700/K. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY COFFEE LAKE
>G4560/G4600 for non-gaming (light tasks) or bare minimum gaming builds with a dedicated graphics card
>R3 1200 - Budget builds (best with OC + fast RAM)
>R5 1600 / i5 8400 - Great gaming or multithreaded use CPUs
>R7 / Used Xeon / Threadripper / i7 - Heavy Multi-Tasking / VM Work / Mixed use

RAM:
>Current CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3000-3200 MHz is ideal
>Before buying RAM for Ryzen, check your Mobo's QVL or look for user reports

Graphics cards:
>Consider Vega 56 for a Freesync monitor
>Crypto-Currency miners have driven GPU prices up (particularly Radeon)
1080p
>GTX 1050Ti and 3GB 1060 are the only reasonably priced cards; 6GB 1060 or 4GB 580 if you want to overpay a little
>GTX 1070 if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
1440p
>GTX 1070/Ti and 1080 are standard choices; currently overpriced
>GTX 1080Ti if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
2160p (4K)
>GTX 1080Ti

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>A 240GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor

Previous:

Other urls found in this thread:

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178993
pcpartpicker.com/list/spbZkT
youtube.com/watch?v=mxes_Z0BD70&feature=youtu.be&t=3m34s
gigabyte.com/MicroSite/334/images/ud-tech.html
youtube.com/watch?v=11NfsMykyAk
youtube.com/watch?v=qswrFCb5sMQ
pcpartpicker.com/user/Algodeen/saved/WnFXHx
pcpartpicker.com/list/8tHZkT
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/#view=zqYr7P
it.pcpartpicker.com/list/p9VP2R
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Anyone

I'd take the ASUS card personally, I have a 480 from them that I really like. I got a MSI board and if their graphics cards are anything like their motherboards, it's hit or miss.

why is thr rx 470 better than a rx 560. I klnow about the speccs I just don't understand the names.

Should I?
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178993

Stop recommending Ryzens to people for gaming.

Why?

At 60hz, it really doesn't matter.

cringe pic

Because they're not gaming CPUs.

95% of games get better benchmarks from Intel CPUs because they benefit more from single core performance & IPC.

The only time you should ever buy a CPU for games is if you're playing multicore intensive DX12/Vulcan games like Civ 6 and Ashes of Singularity. Maybe it'll change in the future, but it won't be any time soon.

could you guys please rate my build, first timer here so sorry if its not as polished, i've been working hard on this build for the past year.

pcpartpicker.com/list/spbZkT

Good goy

At 60Hz, you're better off buying an old Intel CPU for less money and getting better performance for 95% of games from the past 10 years.

Also bear in mind the ram I have now was $120 yesterday, but now changed prices again... So just assume my ram is $120 dolalrs

Well whatever works for you, I guess. I don't like the idea of putting money into old hardware though. My Ryzen 1200 just werks for me in CSGO and that's all I play.

What 1050/ti is the best and what can you play with one?

if I'm working on a grounded anti-static mat (like squatting barefooted on it) do I need a static bracelet?

No.

reposting for opinions plszss friends, lot o moneeee

So 250 fps not enough for gaming ?
youtube.com/watch?v=mxes_Z0BD70&feature=youtu.be&t=3m34s

god stop being intel shill

Microcenter sells 2tb refurbs for $40
Get two of those instead

About to set up my build, how much do I realistically need to worry about static?

No. This isn't the 90s anymore. You can build it on carpet so long as you aren't actively generating static, it won't be an issue. Heck, I think the ESD protection in most hardware nowadays can handle a discharge or two.

Hey idiot, anything can be 250fps with the right setting, GPU & CPU.
What matters is that Intel CPUs will always bench higher than Ryzens. You can't accept this because for you it would be like conceding defeat.

>gates have become smaller and so have their voltage swings
>static is NBD
I hope you're trolling this poor soul

So as long as I touch some metal to ground myself every so often I should be perfectly fine?

Ohh the savagery: you go m8

can SATA cables affect file loading speed?

Can I just pull a HD and plug it in a new PC? or do I need to reformat and reinstall an OS on it?

Yes you can granted you have extra slots. No you don't need to reformat, as long as you have a master HD (your main one with the OS) then your fine and anything after that is just extra storage, think of it as putting a very large usb in your pc.

Most major components have built in ESD protection.
gigabyte.com/MicroSite/334/images/ud-tech.html
>GIGABYTE 8 Series motherboards raise the bar in terms of protecting your system, providing advanced electrostatic discharge (ESD) protection for both your Ethernet LAN and USB ports, both common sources of ESD-related failures. Each LAN and USB port is paired with a dedicated protection filter that can withstand high electrostatic discharges, protecting your system from common electrical surges and even direct lighting strikes.

Yeah those are the ports themselves. Touch a trace when you're building the thing and you could theoretically bypass all that and send your coulombs straight to the pad of some IC

What the point having high fps if it micro stutter.
youtube.com/watch?v=11NfsMykyAk
youtube.com/watch?v=qswrFCb5sMQ

32" 4k @ 60hz compared to 28" 2k @ 144hz?

I suspect use case would be mostly content consumption, productivity and a bit of gaming - leaning towards 32" 4k because of that but open to some opinions?

what if it's the master/boot drive?

What do you mean by "2k"? Saying 4k is bad enough but 2k literally means nothing.

Fug, you're scaring me man. Do I really need to buy a mat or wrist strap?

3840 x 2160 vs 2560 x 1440

Those things are useless
Get the 3840x2160 monitor. If it's IPS that also helps.

If your pulling your boot drive, then yes you would need to reinstall the OS, otherwise you will need to connect it to the proper sata connection. I forgot to mention that you will need to activate the new ports in the BIOS by restarting and going to it again. And then restart once again and reformat it to the proper form in the BIOS. I was talking about external hdd's before. which are considerably easier to use and access which is what I have myself. But yea you don't need to add an OS just reformat and activate additional ports.

this

I fried a mobo while it was running by touching a heat sink by accident. Not the CPU heatsink, but a northbridge heatsink. You'd think a GIANT HUCK OF METAL would be insulated or grounded

ordered the wrong ram
should i order the correct ram and wait for it to arrive before i rma?

LG 32UD59-B and LG 32UD99-W seem to be the two options I'm looking at, I think they're both IPS just one has USB-C (nice for macbook) and HDR - such a price hike for those two features though.

Do you 32" is too big for a desk; will probably be like 60cm - 80cm away from it (and then added size would be good for when watching shit from in bed)?

Wait nvm LG 32UD59-B is a VA pannel so LG 32UD99-W is like my only option - $1400 AUD later :)))))))))

First number is the generation. Second is the tier

R5 1600 is better at gaming than the i3 8100. Considering mobo costs the R5 platform is also cheaper.

Ryzen has good enough single core to get great FPS on all old games though.

Once the i5 8400 comes down in price + gets cheap mobos it'll push out the R5 1600.

Needs fast RAM
23.8" is too small for 1440p
1060 is an absolute bare minimum for 1440p; only get that card if you absolutely know you're not playing anything graphically intensive
Not sure that the cooler will fit in the case

You can play anything, but some games not that well (lower settings, 30FPS)

>Intel CPUs will always bench higher than Ryzens
Oh really? Well why does the 2c/2t G4400 bench lower than the R7 1800X, faggot? Oh right, you're a moron.

Both Intel and AMD have good gaming CPUs. Depends on the price/perf, fan boi. Which brings me to your other point: The R5 1600 can get over 60FPS in all current games. Why the fuck would you pay more to get 300FPS as opposed to 250? You're never going to see those frames because your monitor can't display them.

For gaming I'd say 1440p 165Hz IPS Non-Freesync or 1440p 144Hz VA (not TN). Easier to drive than 4K. If you're getting 4K wait for high refresh monitors with HDR10

It's fine. I wouldn't buy the i7 though. No benefit in gaming over the i5s now or for the foreseeable future. The i5s coming after Coffee are rumored to be 6c/12t, so you'll be able to upgrade cheap when you need to (a long ass time from now).

>For gaming I'd say 1440p 165Hz IPS Non-Freesync or 1440p 144Hz VA (not TN). Easier to drive than 4K. If you're getting 4K wait for high refresh monitors with HDR10
What if it's only gaming casually? I'd say if all goes to plan it'll get a lot more content consumption use, and some productivity that benefits from the screen realestate (like dealing with large datasets).

That's why I'm considering spending so much because it's something I'm probably going to use (and hopefully love) for the foreseeable future.

One more quick thing; if I turn the resolution in a game from 3840 x 2160 to 2560 x 1440 (but keep it fullscreen) it won't look like shit will it? Because that's the idea I had when it came to gaming so it doesn't hammer my computer so hard.
I know there's no real benefit for gaming but the 6c/12t seems like it would be great for parallel processing tasks which are sort of commonplace in things to do with predictive modelling (a field I'm getting into and computer will likely be used for).

Figured for an extra $200 is probably worth the extra cores in my case - plus I've been saving for years for an upgrade and I'm so, so, so sick of "waiting for the next best thing to come around."

I prefer higher resolution to higher resolution textures
Running at native 2160 even if you have to turn it down slightly is better than running at 1440

3840 x 2160 to 2560 x 1440 doesn't scale perfectly. Not really sure if that matters. 1440p is basically four 720p screens glued together while 2160p is basically four 1080p screens glued together

My point about the getting the i5 is that you can replace it with an i7 8700K later for cheap, if you wanted to.

True, I guess I'd just play around with the options to find the best balance for the rig.
Fucking screen resolutions and their retarded lack of continuity in naming - but yeah I just meant the sort of 'next step down' but in the same aspect ratio as 3840 x 2160; if that makes sense.

And yeah that could be a pretty smart idea; just not sure how worth because I want to try be on the z370 platform so I don't have to upgrade every fucking component as quickly. And it's only like an extra $160 AUD to just get the i7 and never think about it again ahaha

3D modelling & Sculpting & Gaming. Possible minor video editing/capture.
(Zbrush, 3DSMAX, MAYA)
$1500max budget CAD
want Full Tower case; don't care about looks, just something solid and reliable
1080p monitor
already have decent mouse + keyboard, so no need

I have some questions for my build ($700 is my max budget).

1) Is the $45 bump up from 2400mhz to 3200mhz worth? (The HyperX Fury is a good deal as the other 2x4 2400ghz kits are at $100+)
2) Is buying a $110 VA monitor a huge downgrade from an IPS panel? I could save $20 if I downgrade so if I buy the cheaper VA monitor, I can buy the 3200mhz RAM kit.

This build is for gaming, video and photo editing, and programming. I wanted an IPS because I heard that it's better to look at (colors and shit). Feel free to suggest changer before I pull the trigger next week.

budget 3000cad
want a pc that will stand the test of time for a bit help

use is gaming p.s.

Sup Forums refugee detected.
Dollary-dos arn't a real world currency.

I installed windows 10 home when I used the USB method to install it on my new build

Now I have to get a key to activate it (fuck that watermark when I'm gaming)
Is home edition fine or should I (or even can I) upgrade to pro or something else?

GPUs

Am I better off:

>Pay for top of the line now (eg: GTX 1080ti) and use it for the next 4 years

or

>Buy something half the price (GTX 1060 6GB) and use it for half as long (2 years)

??

Buy 1080ti from EVGA and get that step-up program so that you can trade in your 1080ti for Volta at a fraction of the price.

What performance are you looking for?
As far as I know Zbrush is RAM heavy and can utilise multicore, 3DS max can only use multicore sometimes, and Maya can sometimes use multiple threads but other times can't.
Maybe a Ryzen 1700 or an i7 8700?

As far as a video card goes I don't know what would match up because I don't know how much it would be utilised.

That isn't descriptive at all. I can tell you some parts that would work with your budget but you might overspend or underspend.

You can buy Pro, but I wouldn't say it's worth it over Home.

So if I just keep the home I installed and upgrade it with a home license key I'll be all good to go and no miss out on any epic features?

My HDD led wire that attatches to the mobo has 2 black wires. How do I know which one is positive? There's an arrow on the dupont connector. Does the arrow point to positive or negative?

pcpartpicker.com/user/Algodeen/saved/WnFXHx

I’m building primarily a gaming pc. These are the parts I have now and I’m looking for a good GTX 1060 6GB.

Also on the fence about settling for a 8600 over the 8700.

There are very few reasons to buy Pro on a new OS. For something like 7 the only way to get a full copy and not OEM is to buy Pro or Ultimate.
For 10 you can buy Home as OEM or Full.
Another reason would be if you're running a workstation and desire the ability to use lots of RAM (more than 128GB), or if you're a business and need some special feature.

Alright thanks. What's the consensus on OEM vs Full? I'm assuming since I built myself I could get away with OEM but is there a reason I should consider full?

why am I a Sup Forums refugee? :(

This build is all over the damn place
>212 Evo
Subpar performance as far as overclocks go
>1TB Black
Very expensive for a 1TB drive.
>1060
You will hit nowhere near 144 fps at 1440p. Good thing that monitor has g-sync.
>550w
This is uncomfortably low. If you ever upgrade you will probably need to buy a new one.
>Case
Way too expensive and not even (subjectively) that great. You could put the money toward basically anything else.

You can get OEM on kinguin for $30 but the liscence is less flexible and is tied to your motherboard. Microsoft also probably won't give you any tech support.
Full is $110 retail but is reusable and Microsoft will give you free support.

pcpartpicker.com/list/8tHZkT

forgot the damn link and wtf I got quads

Depends on your resolution. 99% chance the 1060

Dumb. New card has to get released within three months of purchase of the first one

Either i5 8400, i7 8700, or i7 8700K
i5 8600K is a very poor choice
1060 is weak for 1440p

Get a semi modular PSU, not full modular. Save $20
Get a cheaper ~$60 mobo. Save $30
Get a used 23-24" 1080p monitor. Save $75
Dump the $120 into 1x 8GB of fast RAM and either a 3GB 1060 or an SSD

Basically this build from the OP is what you're looking at
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/#view=zqYr7P
Either you drop the SSD to afford the monitor or you drop to a 1050Ti to afford the monitor. (Of course the wireless card is also dropped.)

I am by no means looking to upgrade this immediately, or even within the next 6 months.
But if I was to upgrade this build, where should I start?

Because you're a gamerfag.

Probably monitor

Also try to OC your RAM

I would buy a second monitor and then a new card.
You could also do something fancy like watercooling or a case or a mechanical keyboard

Any worthwhile 512GB SSDs in Canada between the 850 EVO (~$220) and 960 EVO(~$320)?

850 PRO if you want higher reads
Otherwise not really

Writes, not reads
Whoops

>anything less than a 1080 paired with anything intel
Every. Thread. Either spend a bit more to get a 1080 to go twith your 8600 or actually get MOARFPS by going 1080+ryzen 1600 for the same or even cheaper price.

>500GB SSD
>850 EVO
>$220
What the fuck?
I remember i bought a 850 evo 500GB ssd for 120 dollars last black friday.

In Canada?

It was the US store.

How did I do 1/3

will ram on my mobos qvl rated at 3200mhz be guaranteed to run at that even if it's not samsung b-die?

How'd I do 2/3. Looking like an ass after that first failed edit.

3/3

>1080
>8700k
>Relatively cheap 1080p 144hz
Good job wasting money

Should always look for the pricing screw ups.

Yes

Oh well. Liquidated stock holdings. Didn't work for any if it.

all the ram on the qvl are in packs for 32+gb
how do i know 16gb variants will work with it?

You don't know. If the models don't match, you hope your mobo manufacturer isn't incompetent.

Pls help is the paste from intel stock cooler conductive?

Assume all paste is conductive.

Im so confused you got a 1080 and a Monitor that supports HDMI yet you bought a DVI cable, is there a reason to this ?

I bought them because I have 2 other monitors and another pc that need them.

He also bought an HDMI, but I:m confused as to why he didn't buy Displayport, which is objectively better than either of the two.

Could you guys rate my midrange build?
I'm new to all of this stuff
it.pcpartpicker.com/list/p9VP2R

how big of a deal is OEM/no tech support?
I've never had to use microsoft's support in the past but I've also never used 10