/pcbg/ PC Building General

>How to delid your CPU:
youtube.com/watch?v=bwg0HRw17lY

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and _monitor_ suggestions; click on the blue title to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find a lot more detailed videos on channels like Bitwit)
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g
>How to install Win7 on Ryzen
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

If you want help:
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs:
>NO i5 7500/7600K or i7 7700/K. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY COFFEE LAKE
>G4560/G4600 for non-gaming (light tasks) or bare minimum gaming builds with a dedicated graphics card
>R3 1200 - Budget builds (best with OC + fast RAM)
>R5 1600 / i5 8400 - Great gaming (especially the 8400) or multithreaded use CPUs
>R7 / Used Xeon / Threadripper / i7 - Heavy Multi-Tasking / VM Work / Mixed use

RAM:
>Current CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3000-3200 MHz is ideal
>Before buying RAM for Ryzen, check your Mobo's QVL or look for user reports

Graphics cards:
>Consider Vega 56 for a Freesync monitor
>Crypto-Currency miners have driven GPU prices up (particularly Radeon)
1080p
>GTX 1050Ti and 3GB 1060 are the only reasonably priced cards; 6GB 1060 or 4GB 580 if you want to overpay a little
>GTX 1070 if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
1440p
>GTX 1070/Ti and 1080 are standard choices; currently overpriced
>GTX 1080Ti if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
2160p (4K)
>GTX 1080Ti

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>A 240GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor

Previous:

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/gMtwTH
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232409&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119033
lagom.nl/lcd-test/viewing_angle.php
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

Reposting here :
Hey, my PC recently had issues, and after several tests, I think that my GPU has a big problem. So I'm looking to replace it, however I hesitate between 1050 ti, 1060 3GB or 6GB or maybe something else ? I can't afford something more expensive than 1060. One last thing, I only have 8gb of ram DDR3, would it be better to get a 1050 ti and upgrade to 16gb or is it useless ? I have a 760 and just don't want it to be a downgrade. The most demanding thing I think I'll do is playing WoW (want it to run smooth though), some minor games and some minor work. Thanks in advance

Recommend me some the best 1 TB HDDs

I had 8gb of ram until very recently and never had any ram-related slowdowns. I would think a 1050 ti is enough for wow to run smoothly though i'm just basing this on it being old as fuck.

whats a good cheap 1080 or 1440 monitor

i meant ips monitor

Looking for new gaming pc
What do you think:
Intel® Core™ i7-7700 4x3600MHz
Nvidia GeForce® GTX 1070 8GB GDDR5
120GB SSD + 1TB HDD
16GB DDR4 RAM,
Windows 10 Home 64BitUSB 3.1 Gen1, HD Audio 7.1 Support, WLAN 300MBits/s,
~1400 €

I'm a Linux user and want to build a computer so I can use Virtual Machines to run Windows programs.
Watch should I focus on? A good processor and 16GB of RAM?

xstar on ebay

>posted in a dead thread
How do you guys cope with the fact that changing thermal paste on your GPU voids your warranty?
I had a 550Ti, shit slowly cooked itself to death, but I tried to prevent it by reapplying thermal paste couple times(the change was drastic going from stock cement paste), but I was young and stupid, didn't think about the warranty and lo and behold, just a month before the warranty ends, it bricked, completely, the PC wouldn't even power on, I thought it was the PSU at first, but it was entirely the GPU, and the warranty fucks me over saying it's missing some stickers
Bought a 760 2gb to replace the 550Ti, luckily didn't seem to die from heat, but reached high temps on load, didn't touch the thermal paste, sold the card still with 1 year warranty left in a full build when I built a completely new build
With an RX 480 8gb MSI Gaming x+, I really thought this fucker would be the best of the best, bought it right before the price rise for 300 euros
>90+ degrees at 100% load after several minutes
>FUCKING WARRANTY VOID IF REMOVED STICKER ON A HEATSINK SCREW
>MX-4 just sitting in the desk, getting older and older
My case is Define Mini C, while being pretty closed off, it has 2x140mm front intake, 120mm back, 2x140mm CPU cooler (on the 212 evo heatsink)
The CPU doesn't break a sweat, ever, while GPU goes nuclear

>7th generation non-overclockable i7

should i contact amd or the partner who made it for gpu questions?

Ikr
You know any better cpu?

4x10TB HGST helium filled drives?

OR

4x12TB Seagate Ironwolf drives

Either way I'd be looking at around $1700 in hard drives. Is it worth getting HGST helium over more raw capacity?

Stop buying cards from garbage brands. And stop buying badly cooled cards overall. I've been buying EVGA since GTX 4xx days. Hell I even had a gtx 580 3GB back in the day that I put a custom water block on. One of the Vram modules died when the card was still in warranty. EVGA support said I don't even have to take the block off to send it to them. They verified the problem, took my water block off the old card, put it on the new card, and sent it back to me.

I took the block off the new card to check their installation and it was professional. Only shit companies have "warranty void if sticker removed" garbage.

Depends on the question. Is it about and software, features, or driver issues? AMD. Is it about cooling, temperature problems, or some sort of hardware failure? Contact the partner.

EVGA fucked up with newer cards, didn't want to risk that, not that I completely ruled it out, just that MSI Gaming x+ seemed the best choice, I searched for reviews, asked here and just so happened that this one should have been the best, in comparison
The 2 fans seem more than capable, especially when comparing them to other cards(bigger diameter fans, a lot of fins), just that I suspect shit as always stock thermal paste and it's application (even when they advertise "premium thermal compound" being used, or something like that in other words)
I'm sure I would be more than happy if playing on 1080p, but I'm pushing 1440p and while getting pretty great graphical settings and good fps, the card sits at 100% load constantly

also forgot this HUGE problem I have, but afaik, it should be present for pretty much everyone
>pic related
Where the red box is, is a metal bit "separator" for PCI devices on the case, seems like I'm losing 50% of exhaust

Sounds like something else is up. Because my buddy has my old r9 290X 4GB and even that card isn't hitting 100% load pushing 4K. What's your refresh rate on your monitor? 60? Or higher? Are you using any sort of screen sync? (Free/V-sync)

Because if not, your card is giving you unnecessary FPS.

Oh and EVGA only makes Nvidia cards. The best AMD partner is Sapphire or even Asus hands down. MSI is meh all around.
That doesn't make a noticeable difference. Your card isn't a blower style that cents it's heats outside the case. Yours is open air.

Anything good on newegg's sale?

meant this part, how is this even called?
>that doesn't make a noticeable difference
Hmm, still thought that the hot air has to leave somehow and that was the easiest/closest exit so the best
And no, I wasn't using any V-sync, so maybe I'll start now, but in most games I had some kind of FPS counter and if wasn't THAT high, it wasn't even solid 60 most of the time (50-80 best guess)
The card isn't meant to be 1440p@60@ultra, more like medium-high and mostly my settings were such, so I assume 100% load shouldn't be a phenomenon, how does your friends 290X not max out at 4k I don't understand

Haven't had a PC in 5 years, here's my new build so far

Monitor ACER XB252Q 24.5" Frameless 1ms 1080p, Nvidia G-Sync mostly @ 144Hz (240Hz)
Motherboard ASUS Prime Z370-A LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z370 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX
CPU i7 8700k Coffee Lake
GPU EVGA Nvidia GTX 1080 ti FTW Baseclock
Ram Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4 32GB (4x 8GB)
Cooling Thermaltake Water 3.0 Liquid CPU Cooler 360MM (3 Fans)
HDD Seagate BarraCuda 2TB 7200RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6GB/s
SSD Internal SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 500GB SATA III 3D
Sound Creative SoundBlasterX AE-5 7.1 Channels
PSU EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 Power Supply
Case Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass Black

Help:

GPU: The 1080 and the 1080ti are like £50 apart for me in England at the moment, I will be gaming at 1080p with a single monitor at refresh rates ranging from 60 to 144hz, possibly 200+ for single player and competitive games where I want unlocked refresh rates, I heard conflicting opinions that the ti is overkill for 1080p / it still has drops in the most demanding games and is a good choice - this is why I have chosen the ti, if I'm wrong please let me know

Motherboard: I wanted to get any 300 series motherboard but I'm not sure what the best option is for just gaming, the one I chose was the cheapest 300 series compatible with the new coffee lake cpu, is it a good choice?

SSD: Why is an M2 format more expensive? is it faster or more efficient somehow? should I get an M2?

DVD Drive: I know these are obsolescing these days, I want one to burn cds, but I like this case, is there a middle ground? not really important


Thank you in advance for any and all information

I bought a GTX 1080Ti and an i7-8700k.

Some user recommended me an ASUS ROG Maximus X Hero (Wi-Fi AC)

Would this be a good Motherboard? A lot of the 300 Series Motherboards I see have really bad reviews.

in the same boat

The higher resolution you play at, the less Anti-aliasing you need. For instance I play on a 32" 1440p . X4 AA looks no worse than x8. So my buddy on 4K goes even lower. He is usually playing with no AA or at most, x2. And to top it off, he locks his monitor to 60fps. The card is usually hitting 78-89% usage.

Where as you're not locking your FPS, and with a lot of AA, your card is working as hard as it can. 1440p with high AA is not easy to push. My 980ti struggles a little on a few titles.

Go for Ti if it's 50bongs more, unless you want to wait for new series
holy shit go for a better screen, 1080Ti for a 1080p is insane, you don't need that kind of fps for anything other than possibly CSGO and you'll probably get 1000fps at FHD with that card
Get 1440p@144Hz if you want high refresh rate

SSD: M.2 is a lot faster, but it won't be noticeable unless you require huge speeds for more professional work related things, although I see them as much more convenient as they don't require any cables and just sit flat on the mobo
Since your build seems high-end, you might as well shell out some money for M.2, if not for speed, for the sole purpose of -2 cables

Optical drive: Get a portable one unless you really plan on burning a lot of CDs frequently, some new cases don't even have any 5.25 inch bays

A Z370F(Z370E if you need the wifi) Gaming is good enough. Just wait™ for the UEFI update and you are set. The actual ROG lineup is overpriced

I knew the "higher res = don't need AA" thing, and tried to keep it at 2x or 4x or whatever the lowest, but some new games don't even have AA OFF at all (unless maybe editing some file)

>GPU
If the 1080 and 1080 Ti are 50 british bucks might as well get the Ti .

>Motherboard
I'm having the same issue figuring out which one to buy.

>DVD Drive
Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black)

>RAM
450 USD for 4 8 GB, that's insane.

>The human brain can't program over 2666 MHz
>3000MHz is as high as anyone should ever go
>If your RAM is 3200 MHz you're a moran

For instance pic related. It looked almost completely identical to my buddy's screenshot. COD WW2.

Mine is 1440p with X4 AA

Then his at 4k with no AA

>Z370F
I was thinking about buying this, but All these reviews on the Intel Motherboards all have these reviews on ASUS giving bad customer support.

That image is cropped to 1440p btw simply because the 4k image would go over the file size cap.

Thanks, I'll go for the M2 and get a 27inch acer monitor

>how is this even called?
If it has a name i don't know it, i don't think it's a huge problem unless you have a poorly designed blower card or something.

quick question, if I stay at 24inch, this monitor does 240hz, at 1440p it maxes out at 144hz right?

is the potential fps loss worth it? since im sitting in front of it anyway?

what should I do with the RAM then?
I can use that DVD drive just by itself?

>prolly not getting my i5 8400 'till next year, considering a cancellation
>really don't wanna give up on w7

SO I'm in need of a new processor that's actually in stock, with your help I've collected thus far:
pcpartpicker.com/list/gMtwTH
w7 support has been dropped since Kaby Lake but there's still the reversing patch going around, so what Kaby Lake processor is comparable to an i5-8400??

Not sure if 1440p doesn't go higher than 144Hz, but 24"1440p is still good, PPI is the same as of 15.6" FHD laptop
Do you really need higher than 144Hz though? Really?

What's a good value cooler for Ryzen?

I have the stock spire atm and it was fine until I decided to OC a bit. On really heavy load games at 3.7 it peaks at 75C . Average is 65C. When I tested with prime95 it got really damn hot but it never broke 82C

Is there anything real cheap that could help out or does this look alright with the spire? I got around 20 amazonbux to spend but I can throw in a bit of my own money if it's something really worth getting.

>sounds like a mini dial modem and a laptop hard drive had a baby
kek
but how the fuck does a mobo have coil whine?

Messing with RAM on my new Ryzen build. is there a faster way to check for stablity then useing memtest for 24 hours?

>what Kaby Lake processor is comparable to an i5-8400?
7700K, 7700. If you really want to buy Kaby at this point, I'd go right for the 7700K and a Z270 mobo.

what 300 series for gaming isn't SKETCHY friend if you had to pull the trigger right now

Testing it for less time.

greetings fellow redditors. i am a poorfag wondering how much a used gtx 760 would be? theres a guy on cl selling one for 57 and was wondering if thats good. i could prob lower the price if need be

212 Evo or Cryorg H7. Both are $29.99 on Amazon. I have the CM 212 EVO turbo on my 1700X. Even under prime95 I don't see more than 60C.

alright then what is theballpark timeframe to check stablity then? 1 hour? 30 minutes? 5 hours?

Don't get the EVO, there are like 2 or more newer versions of 212, I can only assume they didn't go for the worse, maybe better heatsink, maybe better fan

oops, meant to replay to

7700k

Just leave it running over night.

>2 or 3 versions
They're all the exact same heatsink though. The only thing they change is the fan.

The regular Evo has a standard sleeve bearing 120m PWM fan. The LED is the exact same fan and heatsink, just with a red LED. The Turbo is the same heatsink but with a much better fan.

There is also a turbo X which is literally the turbo but with 2 of the same fan. Pic related.

I know for sure there was 212X that had different heatsink, some kind of different fins or some shit

Yup. This is the 212X in pic related. The single fan version of this is called the turbo. Literally no difference at all in the heatsink. The various 212 brandings are all about the fans. It would be no different than purchasing a stock 212 EVO and adding different fans.

Dunno m8, on official CM site 212X is a completely different thing than 212 Turbo
212 Turbo is the one with double fans(as you said, better than EVO's) and LEDs, while 212X comes with a single fan, different contact heat pipes(like EVO, Turbo is different), and they also rave on some kind "X-Vents Design™"

Huh. Well I have the old old school 212 Evo. Like the first one to come out. And temperature wise, they're very similar when both are using the same single fan. Less than 0.7° C difference. I have it cooling a FX-6300 in my little sisters build. No reason not to get the 212.
Its a solid, if boring, but dependable cooler.

All I'm saying, if there's an improved version, why stick a several year old heatsink in there over a newer at the same price
Also tried to look into it a bit and apparently EVO and X have better airflow fans than the turbo, although only one each, plus X boasts on some heatsink upgrades, therefore I would recommend getting 212X and if need be, add another fan or exchange for 2 alltogether, but have a better heatsink
For real though, whoever wanted to buy it, look if your case will fit, it is a fucktall cooler desu

oh right this is X with two stock fans, you should grab that

gonna upgrade my PC soon, probably use some christmas money to do it. Has nvidia announced/hinted at the next generation of graphics cards? I feel like the 10 series has been out for a while, I'd be sad if I bought a 1080 and the next gen came out a month later.

They've announced Volta architecture. The price is ridiculous for consumer level tho.

If I want to boost an 8700 on all 6 cores, what after market cooler should I be looking to get?

That's not a bad deal as long as there's nothing wrong with the card. Many friends have gotten scammed one way or another buying used electronics off online classifieds.

Like really anyone can just put up a card with some quirk that renders it to run terribly or just straight up a dead card. Chances are you'll never see their faces again.

If they ask to meet somewhere or they come deliver it for sure you're getting scammed because they don't want you to know where they live.

>Boost a 8700k on all cores
So you mean overclocking? Anyhow, get the biggest and best cooler you can afford. Noctua NH-D15 tier. When you start adding a bit of voltage to those coffeelake i7's, their heat output makes the Chernobyl meltdown look like a heat lamp

my ram won't run at 3200 even though i enabled the xmp,anyone know why and how to fix it?

this is the ram btw
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232409&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Intel i5-4670k
Nvidia GTX 970
16gb ddr3 ram
Asus MX279H x2

This is what I have currently. Anyone wanna help me figure out the best way to upgrade it. Could probably go as high as $1,000 USD, but maybe closer to $800 would be a better bet.

It'd primarily be for gaming, and I play a lot of strategy type games which are pretty processor heavy. Monitor is 1080p but I could maybe stand to get a new one and upgrade to 1440p.

Have you tried not being a terrorist?
>speccy doesn't show correct RAM values, use BIOS to check

redpill me on ASRock boards. why do people here seem to hate them with a burning passion?

He didn't mean 8700K. He just means normal turbo boost.
Get a Hyper 212 and it'll be enough. You can get for $15 in sales.

Bad rep of people remembering ASRock as being ASUS bitch, now it's two different companies and ASRock have some very good boards, at least in mid-tier

speccy for good measure

Is your ram on the compatibility list for your motherboard? If not, usually 2933mhz is common on 3200mhz kits with Ryzen.

Piece of shit swedish subhuman.

Cryorig H5 or H7

That's what people tell me to get, but I'm buying my 8700 as soon as it's back in stock and all the 212s cost the equivalent of $44 USD in my country.

Since it's a non-K, I was wondering if I could get by with a CRYORIG M9i or maybe even a Pure Rock Slim.

My i7-8700k is barely above 25 degrees in idle
And doesnt go over 35-40 in CPU intensive games.

My friends say my temp reading sensors are broken but i have a super airflow case (silverstone ft05)
And a noctua nh-d14 with fresh thermal paste.

If these readings are correct, i should have lots of headroom for OC, right?

I wouldn't say you have a bad build now, but it's definitely a little out of date. best bang for your buck processor wise (for gaming) would be the i5-8600k, as single core performance is king in gaming and intel has AMD beaten in that regard. that processor is the sweet spot for price/performance. the extra threads that i7's offer aren't really necessary for gaming.

970 is a little old, but I use one too (though overclocked a bit) and I still find it handles most games maxed just fine, probably going to upgrade whenever nvidia releases their next lineup or if I can get a great deal on a 1070/180.

I'd say getting a new processor / mobo / ram will run you at least 700 bucks, and you have to get all of that if you want to upgrade your processor.

...

You'll likely get about 4.8-4.9 GHz unless you got lucky in the silicon lottery.
If you want a serious OC, you need liquid cooling and a delid.

Yeah I was thinking about waiting until the next nvidia line came out, what mobo would you recommend?

My 980ti can't get over 30fps with modern wow on ultra

You could just cut that out you know. Problem solved. Judging from your other picture its cutting off more exhaust than the card was designed for. Shit card design.

Is it ok to clean the intel CPUs contact side with alcohol? I think I see som dirt there could be the thermal paste .

That's your cpu

Watch the top youtube link in the OP. It's pretty informative.

I got this one to be used with the i5-8600k, but I haven't installed these components yet because newegg neglected to ship my ram with the rest of the components, but I expect to receive it today. newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119033

really just pick a mobo that meets your needs (amount of USB slots, wifi, whatever else you need) but that is also compatible with your processor of choice, then choose ram from the qualified vendors list from the mobo manufacturers' website.
there must be some other bottleneck in your system, there is no way WoW is bringing a 980ti to max load.

Nah is just WoW ultra settings being retarded as fuck since they render like half the world, I can ultra Witcher 3, DOOM, the new Hitman and whatever at 60 FPS just fine

Cool, thanks friend. This is what I've got so far, I'll keep looking at it and see about making any other changes. Appreciate the advice.

What happened to the m-atx/itx meme builds?

I remember they were all the rage back in 2014/15

mine werks

Why would you ever get an X series Ryzen over a non-X when you can overclock the non-X?

same here, that's why I wanted to know.
interdasting

AssRock seems to focus mostly on the low-end spectrum of the market. If I see someone planning to buy asrock 95% of the time it's because they want the cheapest board possible.

So whenever I see a high-end asrock board I always think it's same thing as luxury Lada; fancy but nothing compared to actually good brands.

Upgradeability meme returned. This time it's about dual 280mm rads and reservoir mounting holes, people feel like they have to have a big case just so that they'll have the option to buy AIOs or custom loops in the future.

Can we all agree IPS Monitors are a meme? They only prevent color distortion when looking at the screen from an angle, which you're never going to do if you're not retarded.

cheap yes, but its a good bang for the buck, like i got an asrock ab350 pro4 week before black friday for $54

an even bigger meme is using CRT displays for hipster points instead being 2nd world tier poor

>which you're never going to do
lagom.nl/lcd-test/viewing_angle.php

...

Please respond my parents need one for their prebuilt theirs is about to fail