/hpg/ - Headphone General

How to request purchase advice: pastebin.com/fYZLW7Ub

For sub-$50 headphones and IEMs, check out the infographic in Sup Forums wiki headphone FAQ: wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php?title=Headphones

Headphone guide: canpicker.com/

Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

head-case.org/forums/topic/12921-schiit-jotunheim/
audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/budget-dac-review-schiit-modi-2-99.1649/
audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/hardware-teardown-of-schiit-modi-2-usb-dac.2082/
jdslabs.com/products/180/rca-to-rca-cable/
monoprice.com/product?p_id=5346
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php?title=Headphones
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/File:1320020147396.png
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/File:1316372662626.png
amazon.com/Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair-Interconnect/dp/B0105PJ3AW/ref=pd_sbs_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0105PJ3AW&pd_rd_r=TWC0V9S4ZK6EJABMQ5ZF&pd_rd_w=TSxqE&pd_rd_wg=nno9K&psc=1&refRID=TWC0V9S4ZK6EJABMQ5ZF
amazon.com/0-5-Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair/dp/B0105V9IFQ/ref=pd_sbs_23_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0105V9IFQ&pd_rd_r=TWC0V9S4ZK6EJABMQ5ZF&pd_rd_w=TSxqE&pd_rd_wg=nno9K&psc=1&refRID=TWC0V9S4ZK6EJABMQ5ZF
amazon.com/Emotiva-XDRCA-Digital-Coaxial-Interconnect/dp/B008O37ICI/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1516477042&sr=1-4&keywords=emotiva rca
amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-SAPRCA1-BK-Premium-Black/dp/B01A7SGDOG/ref=pd_sim_267_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01A7SGDOG&pd_rd_r=S5XD2A0CW3TNEM8QYMHS&pd_rd_w=BIBEG&pd_rd_wg=ND5tu&psc=1&refRID=S5XD2A0CW3TNEM8QYMHS
amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-SAPRCA2-RD-Premium-Patch/dp/B01A7SG7LA/ref=pd_sim_267_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01A7SG7LA&pd_rd_r=S5XD2A0CW3TNEM8QYMHS&pd_rd_w=BIBEG&pd_rd_wg=ND5tu&psc=1&refRID=S5XD2A0CW3TNEM8QYMHS
amazon.com/Emotiva-MSR-1-0-8th-Inch-Cable/dp/B00DMHQL7E/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1516477351&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=emotiva aux cable
reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/6wdcig/bad_experience_with_schiit_audio/
reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/6lnyd8/ama_request_nick_t_from_schiit_tech_support/
reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/7bwko4/schiit_refusing_to_replace_the_misconfigured/
reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/7b33wc/schiit_fulla_2_problems_about_blew_out_my_eardrums/
epsglobal.com/downloads/XMOS/Why-do-you-need-USB-Audio-Class-2.pdf
reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/71wtot/schiit_cs_has_left_me_between_a_rock_and_a_hard/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

>this is what your average hd600 owner looks like

Thread reminder to never buy Schiit products.
>solder splatter
>caps on output
>Either they don't measure their DACs, don't care or don't know how to design a clean DAC.
>For me the biggest letdown with all of this is the major disservice Schiit and others are doing to the community. They are toting these frankly "shit" amps as power houses

head-case.org/forums/topic/12921-schiit-jotunheim/
audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/budget-dac-review-schiit-modi-2-99.1649/
audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/hardware-teardown-of-schiit-modi-2-usb-dac.2082/

i need rca-rca cables should i buy pyst cables??

>PYST cables are made from only the finest 6-nines Unobtanium™ alloy, molecularly assembled in our Alternate Universe™ reality-distortion tesseract field , using a secret geometry reverse-engineered from crashed UFOs, painstakingly smuggled out of Area 51 by deep-cover operatives. Performance is further enhanced by the use of a QuantConnect™ quantum-entangled pair of transmission interfaces, held at absolute zero by our exclusive Stasis Field™ technology. The cables are then wrapped in NanoAeroCap™, a nanotechnology-enabled aerogel anti-capacitance insulation system, featuring Fractal Interleaved Geometry™ to create negative inductance for maximum audio transmission quality.

How can you even still hesitate ?

Idol trash here.
What's your setup like, user?
Truth. Also, adorable black cats do love HD600 owners.
Obvious made up shit. Schiit is a highly reputable company.
If you need them to be that short, it's a nice, solid, good-looking option. They aren't even expensive or anything.

i just want some cables that are on the shorter side

Sigh, forgot the pic.
Sure, why not? But remember to use 4SCHILL on checkout.

10/10 user

MOMMY MOMMY
GIVE SLICE
ME WANT PIZZA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

I bought those when I ordered my OL DAC, been working fine for me. jdslabs.com/products/180/rca-to-rca-cable/

go for it, they'll sound fine and they don't look bad.
How're you today idol user - I ordered my magni 3 to pair with my fulla yesterday, excited to hear my 600's with more juice.

monoprice.com/product?p_id=5346
Even cheaper from Monoprice themselves.

I'm unable to do laundry because the common washing machine been used by neighbours all day.
Fuck this shit etc. At least it's cheap. Well, "cheap"... for Dublin standards. Housing situation is crazy here.
>magni3
That's exciting indeed. Here I'm waiting for MSR7 to ship. Monday possibly, Tuesday for sure.

Where the fuck can I get decent RCA/3.5mm cables that are 6 inches to 1.5ft in length? All of the trash on Amazon has incredibly poor ratings on Fakespot.

amazon basics.

Build your own.

Their minimum length is like 3ft, user. This is why I'm asking.

What's the best place to source all the raw materials and parts?

I want to lick her feet

Hey /hpg/, crossboarder here. I'm looking for a new gaming headset, and I am thinking about either the GSP 350 or 600. Does anybody know if the 600 is really $100 better than the 350? Are there any other multiplatform sets that are better than both of those within the same price range?

>gaming headset
No. See wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php?title=Headphones
Emphasis on: wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/File:1320020147396.png
And: wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/File:1316372662626.png

there are many alternatives to the pyst cables
amazon.com/Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair-Interconnect/dp/B0105PJ3AW/ref=pd_sbs_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0105PJ3AW&pd_rd_r=TWC0V9S4ZK6EJABMQ5ZF&pd_rd_w=TSxqE&pd_rd_wg=nno9K&psc=1&refRID=TWC0V9S4ZK6EJABMQ5ZF
amazon.com/0-5-Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair/dp/B0105V9IFQ/ref=pd_sbs_23_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0105V9IFQ&pd_rd_r=TWC0V9S4ZK6EJABMQ5ZF&pd_rd_w=TSxqE&pd_rd_wg=nno9K&psc=1&refRID=TWC0V9S4ZK6EJABMQ5ZF
amazon.com/Emotiva-XDRCA-Digital-Coaxial-Interconnect/dp/B008O37ICI/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1516477042&sr=1-4&keywords=emotiva rca
amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-SAPRCA1-BK-Premium-Black/dp/B01A7SGDOG/ref=pd_sim_267_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01A7SGDOG&pd_rd_r=S5XD2A0CW3TNEM8QYMHS&pd_rd_w=BIBEG&pd_rd_wg=ND5tu&psc=1&refRID=S5XD2A0CW3TNEM8QYMHS
amazon.com/Seismic-Audio-SAPRCA2-RD-Premium-Patch/dp/B01A7SG7LA/ref=pd_sim_267_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01A7SG7LA&pd_rd_r=S5XD2A0CW3TNEM8QYMHS&pd_rd_w=BIBEG&pd_rd_wg=ND5tu&psc=1&refRID=S5XD2A0CW3TNEM8QYMHS

Sennheiser pc37x

Why though? The PYST are a fine choice.

hifime and emotiva cables are pretty good
here's the emotiva 8in cable
amazon.com/Emotiva-MSR-1-0-8th-Inch-Cable/dp/B00DMHQL7E/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1516477351&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=emotiva aux cable

They're overpriced and when things like exist

I'm going to get headphones and mic for my desktop anyways. I just want a good pair for Xbone, which you can't do with separate headphone+mic (at least as far as I'm aware of).

you vote with your wallet don't give money to a shit company

most of the ones i posted are available in various lengths (0.5-1-2-3ft) while the pyst cables come only in one length

Tell the truth.

Guys, is JDS Labs selling any underwear by any chance? I need a pair of boxers (few in fact) and would like something that is liked around here. Can't find any on their website.
Please help. Thanks.

Why not Schiit underwear?
Schiit-proof and everything.

I can't help but notice some treble distortion on my HD600, is this normal ?

No. The HD600 treble is known to be very refined.
Perhaps your volume is too high and the treble is grating your ears/you're not used to HD600 yet?

No.

Hi Tyll from InnerFidelity here

Just here to remind you that the HiFiMAN HE400S is the best headphone in its price range.

>tyll
Still strongly recommends HD600 and proudly displays it on its wall of fame.

>This relatively inexpensive planar magnetic headphone punches way above its weight class. In fact, I found it to be modestly superior to the Sennheiser HD 600/650, delivering a more present mid-range and tighter bass

Mouser.
>You will not post any of the following outside of Sup Forums: ...uncalled for catchphrases...

I could kill you in 10 different ways with this headphone jack.

Less neutral, less comfortable, less well-built, less durable.
But sure, they have more forward mid range and tighter bass.
Update us when tyll removes HD600 from the wall of fame (ie never).

Did you say less durable?

Yes, less durable.
>chifiman
>ever

>quote from HD660 reviews where some reviewer says it won't break
>other user posts more snapped headband
>random user comes in with goldenears compensated measurements of the HD600
>samefagging user posts reddit guide
and the cycle goes on again

But Snapheiser is even worse.

>Schiit is a highly reputable company.

reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/6wdcig/bad_experience_with_schiit_audio/
reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/6lnyd8/ama_request_nick_t_from_schiit_tech_support/

>quote from HD660 reviews where some reviewer says it won't break
e.g. Tyll says that of HD600/650/660S in the 660S review.

It is, despite random plebbit threads.
Also, fuck off to reddit, pleb.

reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/6wdcig/bad_experience_with_schiit_audio/
reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/6lnyd8/ama_request_nick_t_from_schiit_tech_support/

Aren't these the same threads, from the same reddit?

Reddit is where they recommend Schiit over and over again because the name sounds like shit. Also, look above for objective reasons as to why Schiit is straight garbage.

...

The 800mA draw on USB2 guys? Unlikely story.

I know people who have had their HD600 for 10+ years. But it takes not being a burger brainlet and stretching your headphones like an idiot and then getting surprised when they break.
Plastic, in general, doesn't break randomly.

God I wanna nut to her feet.

Chifiman headphones are good DIY projects

Sounds like any headphone really. Most headphones will easily last 10 years if you actually attempt at being somewhat careful with them.

Last week I bought a new DAC, It's an Audio-GD R2R 11. It sounds good but since two days ago suddenly I hear a single clicking noise everytime I play a video, song or launch a game. It's very minor but it annoys the fuck out of me, everything was good when I bought this thing and all of the sudden there's this. Sometimes I can even hear a click/distortion during a song which is really bad. I know for sure it has to do with my DAC because when I put other headphones in the DAC the clicking is still there, and when I plug headphones directly into my motherboard there are no clicks.

Things I've tried so far:
>tried all different sample rates
>reinstalled USB driver
>checked DPC latecy (1000 constant, no spikes)
>bought an optical cable and used that instead of the USB cable - this caused different but similar issues. It would still click when I start something up, but less frequently. The noise sounds different though, more annoying. It would also randomly disable my audio, I would have to turn my DAC off and on again and it would be back.
>BIOS update
>updated all my drivers

How the fuck do I fix this?

>tfw not tidy or organized enough for /hpg/

reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/7bwko4/schiit_refusing_to_replace_the_misconfigured/
reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/7b33wc/schiit_fulla_2_problems_about_blew_out_my_eardrums/

Opinions on your amp?

>I found that picking up the Fulla and rocking it side to side recreates the static
You're joking right? If not that anons retardation litetally shaking his fulla that's a defective unit.

>highest interrupt to process latency
Some hardware is screwing you up big time. 4ms latency spikes.
Focus on figuring out which hardware it is.
As a start, do some enumeration, with some like speccy, and show us what you've got there.

I love it dearly

Buy a USB to Coax adapter and connect it with a 75ohm coaxial cable. Had a similar problem with my DAC. Clicking from the USB and Optical thanks to shitty drivers. This fixed it.

Gustard make a very high quality USB audio interface called the u12 with a very high quality crystal oscillator. This means you aren't any more jitter prone using coax like you would be as opposed to using Asynchronus USB.

using asynchronous usb*

Not exactly. Some headphones have more elaborate construction that is more prone to damage. For example rubber elements in AKG headphones deteriorate over time, especially with use. HD600 construction is very simple, and unless you abuse the shit out of them, there is nothing to break. Incidentally, chinkfiman headphones are prefect example of overly complex (in terms of build) headphones that break easily with normal use.

>silver o2 in basic configuration
>black ol dac
This setup is so disgusting aesthetically, I could not use it even despite knowing it sounds great. Objective2 without rear rca inputs, rear power connection and 6,3 jack is into the trash it goes tier.

not buying a bryston bha1 for that 20 year transferable warranty

>sounds great
That it does

Buy a fuckin' DAC that fully supports UAC2, mate. Check the XMOS whitepaper about UAC1 vs UAC2 interrupt timing and streaming latency and shit: epsglobal.com/downloads/XMOS/Why-do-you-need-USB-Audio-Class-2.pdf

nope, same problem when i use an optical cable instead of the USB so it can't be that. it's something with my pc hardware.

Return it.

lol you guys are fucking idiots

I'm not the one who bought dubious R2R chinkshit.

you do not understand the issue at hand here, the problem isn't the DAC. idiot.

Why are r2r dacs all the rage lately, they disappeared in the 90s in favor for delta sigma and for good reason. They are actually worse. I've never been able to tell a difference in my system.

Yeah, the problem is the retard who bought the DAC.

It isnt the dac its the way its interfacing with your pc. I had the same issue.
USB to dac - clicks and pops
Optical to dac - clicks and pops
Xonar d2x s/pdif out to dac - no audible artifacts clicks pops.

you don't understand it

You're right i don't understand what it's like to be retarded.

you don't understand audio equipment, retard

what's the difference between the xonar optical cable and the other optical cable?

No I understand it that's why I don't own R2R niggertech

reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/71wtot/schiit_cs_has_left_me_between_a_rock_and_a_hard/

you don't understand audio in general

The difference between using the Xonars digital out as opposed to the PCs digital out is that you are using the internal clock of the soundcard instead of the internal clock of the motherboard (which hopefully is of higher quality) The signal itself is the same but if the motherboards clock has issues the receiver (the dac) has to deal with it and it manifests itself as jitter and depending how bad it is it can be audible during playback as clicks and other unwanted distortion. This is why Asynchronous USB is so popular because it uses the clock thats inbuilt in the DAC but in some cases driver issues can make USB a no go, so you have to deal with the additional jitter optical and coax are prone to due to poor implementations.

Understand these nuts

So I'm running my fostex t-50 rp off of a fiio Q1 that is slowly dying, would there be any noticeable sound difference from upgrading to a magni 3 or O2 if the volume is already more than loud enough for me?

There's so many conflicting opinions that it's really hard to tell truth from placebo, supposedly even if the volume is loud enough certain frequencies can be "Cut off" on a weaker amplifier, and the T-50rp is apparently relatively hard to drive. Is there any credence to this?

if you want to use optical or coaxial without any of these disadvantages buy a USB audio interface like a Gustard U12 as instead of using the internal clock of your motherboard for spdif/optical out you use the high quality one built into the u12

No. Don't listen to idiots, especially not ones who buy R2R DACs.

to put it simply
Asynchronus USB Dac
you use the clock thats inbuilt in the dac which is usually good
Toslink/Coaxial digital audio
You use the clock inbuilt in the sending unit (this case being the motherboard) which is in most cases shit and is prone to jitter

Seconding , people without headphones give best advice.

Post your headphones then.

huh that actually makes sense, i would rather fix the issue with my motherboards internal clock instead of buying something else though, i like the sound of the R2R and i don't want to replace it. also i find it weird that i didn't have the clicking issue at all the first week, i want that back.

you're new to audio

I bought counterfeit mee audio m9 pros on eBay (they were only $10 off MSRP). I've filed through PayPal and will win the case, but how do I hunt down and murder the guy who sold them to me? Thanks HPG

I don't have headphones, why would I post here if I had headphones?

Its a shit scenario, some dacs can deal with having a poorly timed signal sent from the motherboard some can't. It isnt something you can really fix unfortunately other than buying an external USB interface or another soundcard with digital out (this may not work) or another motherboard entirely with a better digital out implementation

...