/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find a lot more detailed videos on channels like Bitwit)
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g
>How to install Win7 on Ryzen
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

Need help?:
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs:
>NO i5 7500/7600K or i7 7700/K. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY COFFEE LAKE
>R3 1200/1300X or R5 1400/1500X ARE SUPERSEDED BY THE R3 2200G AND R5 2400G, BUT UNLESS YOU BUY A COMBO YOU'LL LIKELY NEED TO HAVE THE BIOS UPDATED
>G4560 - non-gaming (light tasks) or bare minimum gaming builds with a dedicated graphics card
>R3 2200G - Budget builds (best with OC + fast RAM) or for holding out until GPU prices drop
>R5 1600 / i5 8400 - Great gaming (especially the i5 8400) or multithreaded use CPUs (especially the R5 1600)
>R7 / Used Xeon / Threadripper / i7 - Heavy Multi-Tasking / VMs / Mixed use

RAM:
>Current CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933-3200 MHz is ideal
>Dual rank memory is often cheaper than comparable higher MHz memory (ie Crucial Ballistix Sport)
>Before buying RAM for Ryzen, check your Mobo's QVL or look for user reports

Graphics cards:
>Cryptocurrency miners have driven GPU prices up
1080p
>MSRPs: 1050Ti, 140USD; 1060 3GB, $200; 1060 6GB, $230; RX 570 4GB, $170; RX 580 4GB, $200
>GTX 1070 if you're looking for very high (100+) FPS
1440p
>GTX 1070/Ti and 1080 are standard choices; currently overpriced
>GTX 1080Ti if you're looking for very high (100+) FPS
2160p (4K)
>GTX 1080Ti

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>Don't waste money on a GPU that drives much higher FPS than your monitor's Hz for "future proofing". Save to upgrade later.
>A 240GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory
>Consider a single larger SSD instead of both a small SSD + much larger HDD.

Previous:

Other urls found in this thread:

costco.com/Dell-Inspiron-15-7000-Series-Gaming-Laptop---Intel-Core-i7---6GB-NVIDIA-Graphics---4K-Ultra-HD.product.100397554.html
pcpartpicker.com/list/xYfBD2
pcpartpicker.com/list/TvCTsJ
pcpartpicker.com/list/R3WRsZ
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/
amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-Single-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B00UFBZOVE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518736792&sr=1-1&keywords=ballistix sport
pcpartpicker.com/list/nKR329
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/csCQzY
pcpartpicker.com/user/oshirigami/saved/nwJWXL
pcpartpicker.com/user/oshirigami/saved/6TZ3FT
amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MTEFT52/
twitter.com/AnonBabble

I plan on buildin a pc with no gpu until prices go back to normal. What are the best future proof CPUs atm?

Just a friendly reminder that getting a refurbished office PC with a 3rd or 4th gen i5(i7 if you get a lucky find) and 8-16gbs of ram is the absolute best deal poorfags can get right now.

All you gotta do is throw in a low profile 1050ti.

The solution is to keep your game at the refresh rate of your monitor, if you (rightfully) don't want to spend hundreds more for an overpriced Gsync one.

144hz freesync or "no-sync" with an Nvidia GPU works fine when you're getting 100+fps so you don't see any screen tearing. Better if you can maintain 144fps+.

Replace those 2 smaller HDDs with a 2TB 2.5" Barracuda.
The ST1000DX001 is particularly bad. And a Cavier Blue? Just why?

The timing on your memory is super garbage. 3000MHz but it's only at 16-18-18-36? wtf. Is that at 1.35v? Why'd you spend
>FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS
on a CPU and motherboard pairing and gimp it with the worst memory you could find?
This is why people lump Intel buyers in as idiots. You buy overpriced CPUs and motherboards then gimp them with other garbage components.

Will you even have USB 2.0 with that set up? Think that through some more. More modern CPUs benefit from better i/o, audio, and other features.

Main benefit of them is that they run cool due to being soldered, which means you're good with a 95-140w TDP cooler instead of needing a 180-220w TDP cooler on most Intel CPUs to get bearable noise.
And don't be fooled by the 212 Evo being rated for 180W TDP of cooling. It's loud as fucking hell at that heat dissipation.
Motherboards are cheaper.
And the biggest thing is that the AM4 socket is supported until at least late 2020, 4 years total, while Intel makes you buy a new motherboard if you want to upgrade ever 1.5years.

Pinned for RAM true latency formula.

That's an easy one.
If you won't have a dedicated GPU, a 2200G is your best bet.
2400G is better, but not +$70 better. You can just overclock the 2200G to be almost as good.

Not bad advice, though you're going to get shitty RAM it's at least something.

The 1050Ti prices are still retarded.
They cost more than an RX570 4GB used to cost when an RX570 4GB is like 50% faster.

If you REALLY have to buy a GPU, getting something like a 1600 on sale + a used GPU would probably be your best bet.

i just started buying parts when i saw this on sale at costco for $900

costco.com/Dell-Inspiron-15-7000-Series-Gaming-Laptop---Intel-Core-i7---6GB-NVIDIA-Graphics---4K-Ultra-HD.product.100397554.html

am i nuts?? this seems like such a good deal

What's the best budget Mid-tower case?

>costco.com/Dell-Inspiron-15-7000-Series-Gaming-Laptop---Intel-Core-i7---6GB-NVIDIA-Graphics---4K-Ultra-HD.product.100397554.html
That is an okay deal if it's the GTX 1060 and not the 1060 Max-Q.
I think you can get the Acer Helios with a 1060 for around $1250, too.

Those laptops tend to be super fucking loud and hot, though. You should check reviews on that.

Mid Tower, so ATX?
Idk. ATX is stupid. I almost never see more than 2 PCI slots populated in a board so there's little point in not going mATX and having a much smaller case.

more space = lower temps?

Alright, well, I guess a mATX case will work too, what's the best budget case of that type?

dude theyre all max q 1060s. that shit wouldnt fit in a laptop.. unless alienware has full ones?

dave2d reviewed it at like 70fps on ultra for overwatch

>used GPU
They are over priced as well :(

The Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass is my favorite case at the moment, for cheaper ones look at the Eclipse P400S, P300, S340 Elite (the normal one too but the elite has tempered glass) and the 270R

Had a question, wanna make sure I'm not doing something wrong.

Both my Asus strix 1080 and my Asus x99-e motherboard are pcie-3.0, but gpu-z says my card is running at 2.0x16. Any ideas why this is? If it wasn't seated right it wouldn't be running at x16 if im not mistaken. Also I made sure it's in a 3.0 slot, but the bios doesn't have options for 3.0 when I look at it. Am I dumb or missing something?

I should say even under stress it's using 2.0.

Well the 270R is the cheapest one in my country, it looks good but I'm afraid it's gonna get filled with dust easily if I don't buy dust filters for it, but those are expensive, so I might go with the regular S340.

who the fuck posts this copypasta ?
ryzen APU is cheaper, you can add card later
plus socket AM4 will be here untill 2019
retard

>y-you can buy c-cpu twice
good goy

Not really, stagnant air is the enemy. A larger case will need more fans to maximize air flow and of course more fans equals more noise.

Get pantyhoes or a carbon filter replacement, the S340 is great but it doesn't have dust filters either

What do you mean? You wouldn't be buying the 2200g or the 2400g if you already had a Ryzen. Last time I checked it was Intel who refuses to update their vulnerable architecture and insists you buy the new Meltdown free lineup so who's the good goy?

Uhh no?
Look at the FT03. It's one of the best cooling cases of its day despite being only 32liters and very closed off. The way that it's closed off makes this wind-tunnel sort of effect that increases air pressure over the inside.

Maybe the Corsair 270R? There is the more expensive 400C, too.
If you can pay more, the Silverstone RL06 is probably the best

He's trying to say that if you get the 2200G or 2400G, you'll later be upgrading it to a 3600 or 3700 or something for better performance.

But he's ignoring the fact that if you get a refurbished Dell, you're getting a shitty motherboard and RAM that you'll want to replace.

I hope we get a decent mATX selection when Zen+ comes out. As in, something with more than a 4 phases VRM design. That's not asking for the moon, is it?

I have DDR4-3000, but my motherboard only has options for DDR4-2933 and DDR4-3200 in the XMP profile. Are 2933 and 3000 the same thing?

Also, is it worth it to over clock my memory?

>are two different numbers the same
I don't know fren

What benchmarking tools do anons use? I need to get a baseline before I start to try overclocking

When raising your memory clock speed to 2993 or 3200 you are, in fact, overclocking. DDR4-3000 indicates its rated overclocking capability.

If you're not looking to play any AAA games until you get that graphics card, you could get the i5 8400.
If you want to play games in the meantime, 2200G.

>Better if you can maintain 144fps+.
Most games cannot maintain this framerate no matter the CPU/graphics card combo. Never fear, tearing is usually minimal on high refresh monitors in the majority of games.

>3000MHz but it's only at 16
That's not bad. 3000 at CL15 is standard. His RAM is hardly "gimped."

Still definitely not as cheap considering you've got to buy DDR4 and new, as opposed to used, components like the mobo, case, etc.
It's easy to get an i7 3770 in one of those workstations, which is better than the 2200G as a CPU. So if you want to grab a cheap graphics card like a 1050 as opposed to using integrated graphics, the used workstation is a viable option.

you pay more for only the 2200g than for an entire system with an i5 2400, 4-8gb ram and a hdd, you're the one who's retarded

Hm, so I guess I fucked up with my choices then? because there is no 3000 option

just use 2933

You could try going for 3200 Mhz with looser timings and hope it boots or just settle for 2993. Nothing wrong with either decision.

3000 is the maximum guaranteed speed. You can use the XMP preset for 2933 no problem.
You could also try the XMP preset for 3200.

Anyone?

I just got the Pro M TG because I wanted airflow, a PSU shroud, a show-off SSD mount, and an ODD bay

Can somebody please explain to me why im stuck at like 1500 mhz?

Lack of 370X/470X mATX boards is tragic.
But it's not like you lose much just going B350.

lmfao.
Ryzen usually can't run at 3000. You need to run it at 2933 or 3200 instead.

For 1080p? Even like an RX570 or 1060 6GB does 144fps near-maxed on Overwatch and R6 Siege, dude.

For most games that are "only" 70-120fps, you likely aren't going to notice screen tearing.

The sync shit is nice when it's free like with Freesync. It's not worth paying 150-hundred-fucking-dollars for.

There's pretty much no reason for a case to be wider, or much wider, than a 5.25" drive bay. 6.5" maybe.
That thing is 9.25" wide WHAT THE FUCK. Your god damned components don't take NEARLY that much space.

BIOS setting could have it set to PCI gen 2, or you could have so many slots and SATA occupied that it has downgraded itself. Or your occupied the wrong SATA connectors.

>0.994V
>12.45W package
>no load on it
>WHY IS MY CPU SO EFFICIENT!!!! GRRRR.

>There's pretty much no reason for a case to be wider, or much wider, than a 5.25" drive bay.
yes there is. Style. or as niggers say. "Dat ass"

anyways, the only other real case to hit all the marks I wanted was the Silverstone RL06 and I preferred the Enthoo Pro M's looks. size wasn't a concern

It's idling, numbnuts.

Cinebench tests it will not go over 1300mhz

Great man I'm about to ship it from a near province because the price triples locally

Try updating BIOS.

Flashed them last night in an attempt to fix this. Obviously did not work

There's one on Craigslist near me, actually.

Dell OptiPlex 990, i7 2600, 16GB, 240GB + 120GB SSD, GTX 1050ti.

Seller is asking $450 obo, not sure if it's worth it.

Well the RL06 is 7.87" wide. That's not TOO bad.

But man, even that 500D I had was too big. 8.1" wide. I'll never go back to a case like that.

You should have made that more clear.
You aren't using a fresh install of Windows, I'm betting?

That's not TOO bad. At least it's a 2600k and not a 2500k.
If it didn't have some trash 120GB SSD, and it was a 4770k or something with a more modern motherboard and such, $450 would be pretty damn alright.

Is the motherboard Z77, at least? Is the memory at least like 1866MHz?Then for like $375 I'd think that's fair. If not then more like $325.

Lol wait, no. That's not even an unlocked CPU. And it has some trash dell motherboard. Yeah $325.

I'd get on the phone with your mobo manufacturer's tech support then

It's eh, of course. But including the 1050Ti it's not too bad.

Yeah sorry about that, im sure i look like a tard. This is a brand new system, built 4 days ago. All new parts, including a fresh install of windows

>Well the RL06
I meant the RL05. Sorry. Silverstone's naming scheme is weird as fuck

You could build a new one for $115 more (without the SSD and with a 2x4gb kit you could fit the budget), of course the 1050 ti will beat the APU but you have more upgrading room
pcpartpicker.com/list/xYfBD2
Microcenter will update the BIOS for $15

>RL05
It's shit

The 1050Ti currently costs considerably more than the 2400G without including a CPU.

The 2400G is slightly overpriced. It's $170 when it should be like $150.
But the 1050Ti is massively overpriced. It's $200+ when it should be $110.

>It's shit
just like your opinion

For whatever reason, switching my PCI in bios from auto, to gen 2 (no gen 3 option) back to auto, caused it to work as gen 3. Weird, thanks for suggestions.

Also if It matters, windows is already in high performance power mode and AMD cool and quiet is disabled

6 years old: pcpartpicker.com/list/TvCTsJ Cost $1,300
Planned upgrade: pcpartpicker.com/list/R3WRsZ Costs $1,100
Not sure if I should bite the bullet. I'm planning to upgrade the CPU, GPU, MOBO, and RAM. If you can talk me out of upgrading one of them, I'm all for it. How's the resale market for the old parts?

Nice. Yeah, buggy BIOS for sure there. At least there is a workaround.

Dang.
I spent like $1400 I think for my i5-2500k and 7970 6 years ago. I'm still using the 7970 today. My 1600X upgrade only cost like $420.

That build doesn't seem bad. But I'd stick with a Noctua or Cryorig air cooler and use the included thermal paste.

As for RAM, go with the Crucial Ballistix Sport or whatever it's called. Dual rank memory that tends to manually OC on Ryzen well. You can likely hit 2933 and 2933 DR > 3200 SR.


Don't waste money on retail windows. Just get a legit key.
Maybe get a better mouse?
Wait for X470 motherboards and Zen+ unless you get a super sale on that motherboard? Paying $200 for an X370 motherboard at this point is just too much.

And wat. No SSD?

oh do some laptops have full gtx 1060s? like the alienwares

it makes sense instead of the 2400g because the whole comp is $900 !!!

What is the absolute best, full featured motherboard I can get for the latest i7 today? I’m looking for 10gE, thunderbolt 3, and as many x16 Lanes possible

But you can make a better 2400G build, with 2x8GB of DR RAM, for around $600.

The RAM in those Laptops are shit. And the 7700HQ is so shit that it can't drive the 1060 faster than the 1060 Max-Q without CPU bottlenecking it in some cases.

If you're just gaming get the 1600/X
That 1070 is sooooo expensive. Unless you're planning on getting a 1440p monitor or have a 144Hz monitor already, just get a 1060

1060 6GB and RX580 are both $300, so why would you get the 1060 over the 580?

Could you link me to that RX580?

There's arguments to both sides.
On one hand, the 1060 uses less power.
On the other, the 580 has better performance.
It's a trade off.

Personally, I'd get the 580. I want AMD to do well and be competitive. For that to happen, I have to support them even when they may have a slightly worse product. If I had the money, an RX Vega 56 at MSRP would be my goal, but as it stands, an 8GB RX 580 is my goal

>1060 6GB and RX580 are both $300
w-where?

The power consumption increase in the 580 over the 1060 isn't as nearly a big a deal as the vega64 over 1080. You're still well beyond fine on like a 400watt PSU. And Radeon Chill works very well to drastically drop power usage if you just need 60fps.

Also, don't forget how Nvidia drivers keep getting worse and worse while AMD's are actually good now.

Well a froogle.com search showed $300 for a 1060 6GB and $320 for a few RX580s, but they could be fake.
I'd pay $20 more for an RX580 over a 1060 if that's the difference, easily.

um ya hwaht

Sorry, I see them as preorders at that price after looking closer. 3-4 weeks wait.

Still better than nothing if you REALLY need a GPU that can play 99.999% of games at 1080p maxed 60fps+.

I ordered a silver Vega 64 in December and I'm still waiting. :(

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/

My poorfag ryzen build. I have a r9 380 from my current desktop for it and a couple of SSDs. Just want to OC to whatever it'll do and be happy. Main use is photoshop, video editing and muh vidvya. Thoughts?

>Noctua or Cryorig air cooler
I'll take note of this. Currently planning to just reuse the six year old corsair liquid cooler.
>Crucial Ballistix Sport
You mean this?
amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-Single-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B00UFBZOVE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518736792&sr=1-1&keywords=ballistix sport
>Don't waste money on retail windows. Just get a legit key.
I wanted to keep using Windows 7, but found out it's no longer supported on new CPUs. I'll probably get a Windows 10 Pro key through my college for free.
>Maybe get a better mouse?
This mouse is over a decade old. I just never found a reason to get a new one.
>Wait for X470 motherboards and Zen+
This is in April? I'll wait then.
>No SSD?
I'm trying not to spend too much. The old HDD is doing fine.
>If you're just gaming get the 1600/X
I'd like to have it VR capable, which to my understanding a 1070 is the best option.

hey dumby. Not the link in the address bar
Use the permalink

>I'd like to have it VR capable, which to my understanding a 1070 is the best option.
what does choosing a 1600/X have to do with the 1070? He's saying drop the 8 core 1700X CPU

Seriously though, can nobody figure this out?

See >That 1070 is sooooo expensive.
Highlighted the wrong part. Forgive me.

The problem is the MSRP of the 1070 is under $400, and the RX Vega 56 provides better performance for a $400 MSRP. Again, when things sell at MSRP.

You'd have to have more money than brains to buy a graphics card right now. No way in hell is a 1070 worth $700 by itself. Fuck that shit.

I'd go with this
pcpartpicker.com/list/nKR329
You can overclock the 1700 like the 1800x, I prefer air cooling and the NH-D15 works like a charm, the DDR4 kit is CL14 (optimal latency for oc) and the 1080 was cheaper.

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/csCQzY

I'm in refresh hell. There was stock today, but I missed it. There is no way in hell I spend $700 on a 1070.

>I'd like to have it VR capable, which to my understanding a 1070 is the best option.
Even the 1060 Max-Q, 1050Ti, and Vega M GL (20CUs) are VR capable.

>You mean this?
>amazon.com/Ballistix-Sport-Single-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B00UFBZOVE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518736792&sr=1-1&keywords=ballistix sport
Yes. 2 of those. I've seen kits of them together at like $165 or $170 I think. Best value RAM that I'm aware of.
You'll have to manually up the voltage and dial in the clocks and timings since I don't think they have XMP profiles. I heard someone was running them at 2800MHz CL14 at only 1.25v, so at 1.35v I'd imagine they'll do 2933MHz CL14 easy.

>I'm trying not to spend too much. The old HDD is doing fine.
Doing a bad job at that, spending $205 on a motherboard when you could get both a 1600+b350 motherboard for $200 at microcenter or some other bundle sale.
$135 for an SSD is well worth it.

>This is in April? I'll wait then
Should be something like that. At the very least, 300 series boards and Zen1 will be on sale super cheap.

I'm stumped, sorry. Might want to try a forum.

alright. Unless you're spending $30+ on a cooler, the stock one it better. If you get an aftermarket cooler, I'd recommend a downdraft cooler like the Cryorig C7 because it blows air over the VRMs which will help with overclocking. The stock Ryzen cooler does that as well.

Fun fact: The stock AMD Ryzen coolers are made by Cooler Master

Do they all come with wraith or is it extra?

Alright guess i'll try somewhere else. Thanks for the input.

At least answer me this though? When I try to set cpu voltage manually the lowest the bios even lets me input is about 1.3 volts. That normal? and also does Nb and soc voltage have to be tampered with as well?

>Palit GeForce GTX 1060 DUAL 6GB
is Palit a good brand? it's selling for 310€ and i might just buy it

I put together two cheap desktop builds, without having the absolute shittiest motherboard, SSD, PSU, and RAM.
Just for whoever is looking for that sort of thing since GPU prices are nuts.

>pcpartpicker.com/user/oshirigami/saved/nwJWXL
>2x4GB
>$467
Keep in mind that you should not add 2 additional DIMMs. You should only use 2 DIMMs with dual rank memory. 2 DR DIMMs is the optimal, fastest memory configuration. These are one of the rare 4GB DDR4 DIMMs which come in dual rank, and I know the 8GB version overclocks very well. These probably do too, given they're running stock at the same 2666 CL16 at only 1.2v.
This is some of the secretly best RAM you can buy, and it's cheap since most people don't know what dual rank is and don't know what to look for when buying RAM. As a result, it's not too expensive compared to slower memory.

>pcpartpicker.com/user/oshirigami/saved/6TZ3FT
>2x8GB
>$542
This is the 8GB DIMMs of the previous, so everything said above applies.

Good enough for 1080p low to high on most everything except PUBG, until the point that GPUs get to sane prices.

No that is not normal. You should be able to set to under 1v.

Yeah, Palit is fine.

The Ryzen 3 1200, Ryzen 3 1300X, Ryzen 5 1400, Ryzen 3 2200G, and Ryzen 5 2400G all come with the AMD Wraith Stealth, a 65W cooler that can handle a small overclock.

The Ryzen 5 1500X and Ryzen 5 1600 come with the Wraith Spire, a 95W cooler capable of a moderate overclock

The Ryzen 7 1700 comes with the Wraith Spire as well, but this one has an RGB LED ring around it.

The Ryzen 5 1600X, Ryzen 7 1700X, and Ryzen 7 1800X do not come with coolers.

The top AMD cooler is sold separately, the AMD Wraith Max, a 125W cooler that should be able to handle a Ryzen CPU at 4.0 Ghz

thats a great fucking deal, snatch it up.

A Focus G Mini might have more airflow (or the Core V21 but that's over £50)

If thats not normal then I'm really out of ideas. Perhaps I just got an autistic mb or cpu?

Thanks, that looks pretty neat

Thank you. I'll be saving this for reference.
>spending $205 on a motherboard when you could get both a 1600+b350 motherboard for $200 at microcenter or some other bundle sale.
This is good to know. I was only picking parts individually and didn't look into bundles.
>At the very least, 300 series boards and Zen1 will be on sale super cheap.
April it is then. I'm betting on getting a bargain then.

No problem, I had a glossy plastic case and hated every second of it

>a used GPU

most likely used and abused

Good luck with the build user, I forgot if you're going for the NH-D15 you need a mounting kit, you can order it or send Noctua proof that you own it and they'll send it for free
amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MTEFT52/

The top exhaust fans for my PC case died. They are stock fans for the Corsair 600T. What do you recommend for replacements?

What sizes are they?

200mm for the top and front. 120mm in the back, but that's already been replaced with a radiator.

It says I can mount two 120mm on the top instead of the 200mm if I want.

how can I test if my computer is working properly? I recently got an 8700k which scores about below average in benchmarks like Cinebench and passmark which I could live with, but in real world tests like emulators and such I get very poor performance. Regular pc games run like shit too which is not that unsurprising but even old shit like half life 2 does not run at 60fps consistently. All in all it's not that much of an upgrade from my shitty ass chromebook. wtf? Is it possible my cpu or motherboard are not running up to spec?

NH-D15 is overkill for even a 1800X.

The fuck does that even mean? You think people play hacky-sack with GPUs?

I don't think CPU controls that stuff. I thought motherboard did. Dunno for sure with these really modern CPUs.

i have an SSD to boot OS and run my day to day and audio editing applications but is it still feasible to install AAA games on this HDD?

pic related...